I've modified the tool to compress the plunger so it bottoms out. I ordered what looks to be a good brake fluid recovery bottle (from Turner) and a also a small oiler to reverse bleed the system. This should allow me to do the job alone without a buddy to pump the pedal. I plan to give it another try this weekend and will report back, this time with good news I hope!
Do you put thick lube around the bleeder threads to try and prevent air from penetrating the threads?
i was planning on using a syringe with a line attached to it and forcing the fluid up into the reservoir.
Last edited by MrDangles; 07-06-2016 at 08:18 PM.
I picked up a 60 oz. jet pump oiler at the hardware store for $6. It has a flexible tube that looks like it will fit tight over the bleeder to prevent air from entering when reverse bleeding. If it isn't tight enough it would be easy to insert a barbed adapter into the hose and add the proper sized tubing.
Well I'm sorry to report that after three hours this morning my clutch issue is no better. I removed the slave, compressed the plunger all the way in, reverse bled the system with the hose at the top and the bleeder pointing downward and to the rear, removed the tool and pressed the plunger in a dozen times, reinstalled, and still clutch engaged with pedal at the floor. I had a hard pedal with the tool on the slave after the reverse bleed so I was optimistic but when everything went back together the problem returned. I repeated the procedure 4 times and probably reverse bled about 4 oz. of DOT4 back up to the reservoir in all being very careful not to send any bubbles up the hose. Note: I have a new non braided 3.0 rubber hose. Could it be that this hose is expanding and I need the SS braided type hose? I'm out of ideas. Any thoughts other than going to the Dealer? I wonder if the slave itself is bad and the plunger is not extending out far enough. It isn't leaking. I saw a youtube video where the guy changing his BMW slave installed a replacement that had a longer plunger. Thx.
Last edited by Z3MROADY; 07-10-2016 at 03:36 PM.
subscribed, ive had the same exact problem with my shoe and no amount of bleeding, or anything else has fixed it. I too have the 3.0 line, i have the bav auto plunger tool. Ive gone as far as changing my clutch fork, divot, clip, throwout bearing (on a clutch job)..none of those helped. Ive bled up, down, sideways, you name it. No go.
love to get to the bottom of this.
Current:
2001 S54 M-Coupe
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman S
94 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L/242 TC (Daily)
Past:
95 325i Convertible/Boston Green
01 330Ci Convertible/Steel Grey/Stick
05 Infiniti G35 Premium/Tech
I would as well. My wife had a very hard time getting into 2nd and yanked the shift knob right off the stick ( no, you do not want to mess with her .
Does anyone have a new stock M slave unit they can measure stroke of the plunger when at full extention?
I'm also starting to wonder about my master leaking internally per Randy' post. Hmmm.
Last edited by Z3MROADY; 07-11-2016 at 05:42 PM.
Current:
2001 S54 M-Coupe
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman S
94 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L/242 TC (Daily)
Past:
95 325i Convertible/Boston Green
01 330Ci Convertible/Steel Grey/Stick
05 Infiniti G35 Premium/Tech
Current:
2001 S54 M-Coupe
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman S
94 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L/242 TC (Daily)
Past:
95 325i Convertible/Boston Green
01 330Ci Convertible/Steel Grey/Stick
05 Infiniti G35 Premium/Tech
ShoeCoupe - When you had your slave plunger compressed all the way in (in the tool) do you recall if your clutch pedal was hard at the very top of travel or was there a little free play at the top before it firmed up. I have some play there that I may need to investigate.
So here's what happened to me. When I first did it, I had a ton of slop. Then i discovered that my clutch pedal was worn. Where the master cyl pin meets the plastic pedal, it had worn out. (see pic)....
So I replaced the pedal, and with the plunger pushed in, after bleeding it is solid... and just like you, when I put it back together, it engages low and shitty
110302-IMG_20110302_204457.jpg
Last edited by Shoe Coupe; 07-12-2016 at 01:10 AM.
Current:
2001 S54 M-Coupe
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman S
94 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L/242 TC (Daily)
Past:
95 325i Convertible/Boston Green
01 330Ci Convertible/Steel Grey/Stick
05 Infiniti G35 Premium/Tech
Didn't have any luck with slave plunger pushed in, or the master depressed. For me the master had to be full out, and the slave had to be installed in the bellhousing.
Advanced Auto sells a blue oil can that already has a hose and little metal tip on it. I cut off the tip, and it fit perfectly over the slave bleeder.
Opened the bleeder just a tiny little bit. I was surprised how long it took for the oil can to push enough fluid through the system to fill the reservoir. Then I realized that each pump was only about 2/3 of the length of the hose. Because the hose is clear, you can stop if you see air coming up the line before it gets to the bleeder valve.
HTH
When a master fails, the fluid leaks out to either the ground or the reservoir over time. For the brakes, the pedal will slowly sink to the floor as the fluid bleeds out. For the clutch, you will have the pedal down, and the clutch will start engaging on it's own. A failed master can not make the pedal spongy but consistent. A bad master will bleed down.
/.randy
When my e30 clutch master failed it initially would 'catch' at a random point in the travel, resulting in an unpredictable engagement point. (It did quickly fully fail, and the tear in the seal was easy to spot.)
Okay, that is another failure mode, where the seal doesn't "umbrella out" under light pressure. And once it catches and seals, it stays sealed for that operation. A key word in there is "random". Nothing, then all. No squish. And it is often controllable by the speed of application. A squishy/spongy pedal that is consistent, or pumps up with quick successive applications, is air; not a failing master.
/.randy
Sounds approx. what I created and worked... though didn't have the luxury of a clear hose in that I used black vacuum line... and yes, took quite a while to pump the new fluid up into the res... I used a turkey baster to pull excess out of the res, and used new clear fluid coming up from the bottom as an indicator [the brake fluid wasn't that old, but was already a slightly different color than the new]. And likewise: don't think the master can be depressed any, in that will cover the ports and not allow for the flow of fluid.
My clutch pedal stays rock hard when the slave is bled and in the tool so the master must be ok. Assembled the pedal operates smooth and does not feel spongy. Nothing changes as I pump it repeatedly. Engagement stays at the floor. Note: I checked with ECS and they said that all of the varios slaves they sell for the Z3M have the same plunger dimensions I was hoping there was a compatible slave with a slightly longer stroke.
The actual pushrod has nothing to do with the stroke. What you need is a smaller bore slave cylinder. It just so happens one exists. E36 325i. Stock is 7/8" bore, the 325i is 13/16", roughly 15% longer stroke.
Last edited by rf900rkw; 07-12-2016 at 01:31 PM.
/.randy
Last edited by Z3MROADY; 07-12-2016 at 03:56 PM.
isnt that going to make the clutch significantly heavier?
Current:
2001 S54 M-Coupe
2011 Mini Cooper Countryman S
94 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L/242 TC (Daily)
Past:
95 325i Convertible/Boston Green
01 330Ci Convertible/Steel Grey/Stick
05 Infiniti G35 Premium/Tech
Some have the ports in different spots. A little creativity or a UUC braided line will get the job done.
/.randy
15% quicker, 15% more effort. Not recommended for a Stage 2 or higher pressure plates. I run the 325 slave on my stock S52s.
/.randy
This should go into the FAQ threads :-)
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