Lukas' E46 Maintenance/Build Thread

[dworthy]

Yeah a cheap battery will do that. I for one stay away from generic batteries, my last battery I replaced was the original battery in the wagon, it was in there for 8 years, and then I moved it over to the winter beater, where it lasted another year until it finally died. I am willing to pay an extra 30-40 bucks for a battery that will last 6-8 years.

[xLukas]

To replace the key fob battery correctly you need a Panasonic VL2020. You also need some electrical wire to solder it.

Does anyone know what size wire will work? I went to Oreilly's and their 14, 16, 18 gauge wire seemed way too big. Ordered some 30 gauge on eBay and that's way too small.

[dhurley34]

If 18 is too big and 30 is too small, I would shoot for 24g or 26g. You should be able to find it at your local radioshack.

[xLukas]

I picked up some Style 162s from an E92 335i. They are 18x8 ET35 F, and 18x8.5 ET37 R. Refurbished them and am now going about buying tires.



The general consensus says 225/40/18. Which I have found a good deal on at the moment.

However my buddy who had a prefacelift sedan had these type of wheels with 225/40 and rubbed. Though he WAS "slammed" on coilovers and had 15mm spacers AND had fenders rolled. He suggests I get 225/35.

However I'm finding the 35 series have an 87 load rating where as the 40 series have a 92 load rating. Only a difference of about holding an extra 750 lbs but something for me to keep in mind.

Would a 225/35 profile really make a difference between rubbing and not rubbing? I'm trying to avoid rubber band tires but I don't want to rub.

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[dworthy]

Well the Stock 17' size on a 3er is 225-45 R17, so running a 225-40 R18 would be roughly the same size. As a rule of thumb, I like to use this: For every inch in diameter you increase rim size, take 5 off the sidewall. Just like if you want to go wider, except for every 20mm of width, you take 5% off the sidewall.

With those offset, the tires will look normal in the front, and a little stretched in the back. So what I would do is run a 255-35 R18 in the rear to make it look normal, as I do believe that is the stock size for those size rims.

Now the normal offset for the rear on a ZHP equipped car is around ET-50, so I would mount those rear rims to ensure clearance on the shock, and take a straight edge to see if it will clear the inner fender. That will be the true test as I am sure they won't come close to the shock, but the inner fender would be my worry.

[xLukas]

Well the Stock 17' size on a 3er is 225-45 R17, so running a 225-40 R18 would be roughly the same size. As a rule of thumb, I like to use this: For every inch in diameter you increase rim size, take 5 off the sidewall. Just like if you want to go wider, except for every 20mm of width, you take 5% off the sidewall.

With those offset, the tires will look normal in the front, and a little stretched in the back. So what I would do is run a 255-35 R18 in the rear to make it look normal, as I do believe that is the stock size for those size rims.

Now the normal offset for the rear on a ZHP equipped car is around ET-50, so I would mount those rear rims to ensure clearance on the shock, and take a straight edge to see if it will clear the inner fender. That will be the true test as I am sure they won't come close to the shock, but the inner fender would be my worry.

Thanks for the info. I know this, though. If I could run a wide 255 on a sedan that is lowered without any complications, trust me, I would. I will be lowering and may or may not add spacers as he did.



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[dhurley34]

I presently have 18x8 ET35 225/40/18 that fit perfectly on my non-lowered XI. However, if it were lowered the tires would probably rub unless the inside lip of the rear fenders were rolled. Its the offset that makes it difficult. The same tire/wheel combination would not rub when lowered if the ET was a 42+.

[xLukas]

I presently have 18x8 ET35 225/40/18 that fit perfectly on my non-lowered XI. However, if it were lowered the tires would probably rub unless the inside lip of the rear fenders were rolled. Its the offset that makes it difficult. The same tire/wheel combination would not rub when lowered if the ET was a 42+.

Do you have much of a gap between the fender? I like close to flush as possible. However I'd obviously remedy my possible rubbing issues simply by not lowering as low as he was and not as large as spacers lol.

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[dhurley34]

There's about 2.5" gap in the front and 2" in the rear. But the XI does sit higher naturally over a regular sedan for snow clearance. Heres a pic:
20160611_182053-1.jpg

Click on it to see larger.

[xLukas]

There's about 2.5" gap in the front and 2" in the rear. But the XI does sit higher naturally over a regular sedan for snow clearance. Heres a pic:
20160611_182053-1.jpg

Click on it to see larger.

Nice wheels. I mean the clearance between the tires and the fender horizontally if that makes sense, not the ride height haha.

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[dworthy]

And that is why I suggested to use a straight edge before you mount the tires. While the suspension will go up and in when you put the weight of the vehicle on that wheel, it will give you a good idea how close it will be.

[dhurley34]

Around 1/4in front and back

[xLukas]

Tires showed up. Called around to find the cheapest mounting and balancing. $60 is the cheapest so far. Will have to get them done next week.

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[xLukas]

And the refinished wheels. Definitely not perfect, but they're good enough!

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[dworthy]

If that's for all 4, it isn't too bad if it includes the valve stems.

[xLukas]

$10 extra for valve stems. Everyone else was quoting around $100 for mount, balance and valve stems.

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[90turbo1]

did you find your water leak? we used to have those leaks come in dealership from time to time. there is a water drain for AC system located behind dash on top of transmission tunnel. we would see them disconnected from carpet repairs and such. also you said the sunroof drain is ok. how did you check, there are 4 drains on the sunroof. two at front and two at rear. the rear ones might be only on suv's though. but the fronts go from corners to rubber tubes that go into a pillars. then down the a pillar to the front wheel wells. they are easy to check, open sunroof and pour water down them. the water should come out behind front wheels. or if the drain is broke or disconnected we have seen water run down headliner to inner a pillar trim down to inside of dash and onto carpet.


those are same 335 wheels I had on my e46 coupe and they fit perfect. looks good man.

[xLukas]

did you find your water leak? we used to have those leaks come in dealership from time to time. there is a water drain for AC system located behind dash on top of transmission tunnel. we would see them disconnected from carpet repairs and such. also you said the sunroof drain is ok. how did you check, there are 4 drains on the sunroof. two at front and two at rear. the rear ones might be only on suv's though. but the fronts go from corners to rubber tubes that go into a pillars. then down the a pillar to the front wheel wells. they are easy to check, open sunroof and pour water down them. the water should come out behind front wheels. or if the drain is broke or disconnected we have seen water run down headliner to inner a pillar trim down to inside of dash and onto carpet.


those are same 335 wheels I had on my e46 coupe and they fit perfect. looks good man.

I tested my front drains thoroughly.
They come down the wheel well drains. However I'm pretty sure I need a new weather seal as some water will come in if I'm pouring water heavily. However, how often will rain be pouring that rapidly and in those quantities? Unlikely. I put some silicone under the windshield in a place where the adhesive may have been deteriorating and I thought that stopped it. I've determined it's really just when I keep my sunroof tilted and rain gets in there. It should go down the drains but for whatever reason, sometimes it'll only drip from the passenger side pillar. I've caught it dripping multiple times and the side airbag is wet when so. I've tripled checked the drain hose and it's connected. It never leaks when the sunroof is closed completely.


Have any pics on the 162s on your car? Gonna hopefully get them mounted Monday!


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[xLukas]

I've had the yellow trifecta since I've had the car. Have't really had an issue with it (I think), so when it came on every once in a while I didn't care. Now it has been coming on the past week, every single drive. I've got a new code (other than my old P0420 code), it is P0221; throttle/pedal position sensor malfunction, or something like that.

I had a rough start on Saturday morning caused by it, I believe. Hoping it's not a whole new throttle body I have to get.

[dworthy]

Oh, that's not good news, for I think there is a SB somewhere out there depending on the MY of the car. It has to do with the wiring and the DME maybe faulty.

[xLukas]

Went into limp mode and could barely drive it at all today. Got towed home, thank god for AAA (wasn't too thrilled about the 1.5 hour wait though). Drove the E36 to buy a used throttle body with 105K miles on it. Some say it doesn't need programming. including a BMW specialty shop I called, where as some did actually run into issues without it. I hope I have no issues. Wish me luck.

As for having the trifecta since the beginning of my ownership, it was intermittent and only turned on while usually driving on the highway when coming to a stop or randomly causing no drivability issues. I would go into limp mode maybe once every few months or so (not nearly as bad as today, though), however I was beginning to think that was due to my P0420 code (catalysts efficiency below threshold). I believe this issue is totally unrelated to the P0420 since I've gotten both P0221 and P1633. Both of which seem to mostly be remedied by replacing the throttle body.

[dworthy]

Okay I found it, have a look for you actually need the BMW codes to be sure.

[xLukas]

Okay I found it, have a look for you actually need the BMW codes to be sure.

Do I need to purchase and install DIS/GT1 software to scan the correct codes?

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[dworthy]

That or INPA will give you the codes as well. I like using INPA for basic diagnostic and code pulling for it's easy for an old guy. DIS/GT-1 is more for when I cannot figure something out, and let the computer do the work.

[xLukas]

Replaced the throttle body with a lower-mileaged one (PO says 105K miles when taken off). Required no programming. All I did was put the key in ignition to position two and let it sit and reset the throttle by putting key in ignition position two, holding accelerator down for 10 seconds and taking the key out, then waiting another 10 seconds. Started right up. Test drove and all seems to be fine. Except for a chattering noise I am now hearing. Sounds exactly like an idler pulley that's bad. Everything loves to go out in groups I am noticing on this car. I need to change the belts out anyway and they've been sitting in my bedroom for ages, so I may as well order the pulley as well.