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Thread: Lukas' E46 Maintenance/Build Thread

  1. #76
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    You mean an Oxygen sensor defouler? In some states that have inspection points, they can fail you for the visual inspection if they see them. Not about your state, but just wanted to pass that along.

    A defouler just masks the problem, doesn't fix an issue as you are taking the oxygen sensor out of the main stream of exhaust gasses.

    Time to see why the lights are coming on, typically it will be an ABS sensor. See if the speedometer works while the lights are on, for that will tell you if the left rear went out, as it is the most common one to go first.
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  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    You mean an Oxygen sensor defouler? In some states that have inspection points, they can fail you for the visual inspection if they see them. Not about your state, but just wanted to pass that along.

    A defouler just masks the problem, doesn't fix an issue as you are taking the oxygen sensor out of the main stream of exhaust gasses.

    Time to see why the lights are coming on, typically it will be an ABS sensor. See if the speedometer works while the lights are on, for that will tell you if the left rear went out, as it is the most common one to go first.
    No emissions in my city, so I am fine for that aspect. I will test drive tomorrow and see if the speedo works after topping off the transmission the best I can. I sure hope I don't need to replace any speed/ABS sensors.. but you gotta do what you need to do I guess.

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  3. #78
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    Yeah, sometimes the system gets a hiccup and you will see those lights. Of course you will need to check the ABS/DSC DME for any codes that does get stored.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Yeah, sometimes the system gets a hiccup and you will see those lights. Of course you will need to check the ABS/DSC DME for any codes that does get stored.
    I have an OBD II reader as well as an SRS reader. Sadly none of which can read any ABS/DSC. Hopefully driving/topping off brake fluid (if I need it) will fix it.

    Thanks for all the insight and help by the way.

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  5. #80
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    No problems, I help where I can.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by xLukas View Post
    Oh and upon startup today my DSC, ABS and parking brake (yellow) came on........ this thing is never ending.
    The "trifecta" of lights is almost definitely an ABS wheel speed sensor, try taking each one out and cleaning it sometimes this will make the code go away! If that doesn't work a PASoft scan (an indie shop might have a scanner) will tell you which sensor has gone bad.

  7. #82
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    The ABS lights disappeared after a couple starts. Thanks though.

    I bought and used a DISA repair kit. All nice and tight now. Tested it off of the car, it goes back to its original open position while holding my finger over the vacuum hole, aka not holding vacuum. Guess we'll see when I test it on the car!





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    Test drove it and no negative effects. No codes or lights. I didn't have a code or light before, either but it was loose and broken nonetheless.

    Here's some pics:





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    Everything seems good. Still need to get some seat motors. Being 6'3" is a pain when your seat won't go down.


    On another note, my dad's E39 has a valley pan leak, I believe. Saw the fluid behind/beneath the intake manifold. It was dripping from between where his transmission and engine bolt together.

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    Update: transmission pressure buildup issue seems to have gone away since changing the fluid, though I still am getting hard downshifts most of the time when coming from 2nd to 1st gear. It is like a thud into first gear. As well as this, I feel a delay in shifting at times. I probably just need a software update.

    Unbolted my seats yesterday to find out that both of my seats' issues were caused by one motor on each of them being unplugged. I planned on swapping motors from the passenger to driver's seat so I could adjust my seat up and down. Easy fix, though. Took the opportunity to vacuum under them. I found a french fry that looked as if it hadn't aged a day. I wonder what fast food chain that came from.
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  11. #86
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    Drove the E46 to the gym last night. No rough starts or any issues mentioned below.

    As you all may know from previous postings, I keep having my P420 code showing up. It's caused no driveability issues. As well as this I've been getting the EML, DSC and brake light popping up occasionally. They usually disappear after a restart.

    I started it up this morning and had a very rough start, twice. The EML, DSC and Brake lamps were all on, including the SES (still P0420).


    https://youtu.be/gFu8A8Ngrq0

    So I drove the E36 to school. Maybe the catalytic converter really is bad, after all? I don't believe any of the EML, DSC or brake components could cause such an issue. Thoughts?

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  12. #87
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    When at operating temp, the outlet of cat should be 100 degrees cooler than the inlet. if its the same temp in as it is out, then the cat is bad because it no longer is a a catalyst. If the outlet temp is a few hundred degrees cooler than the inlet, then its plugged.

    The EML, DSC, and Brake lights are indicative of an issue with the throttle position sensor. Often its just that the connector needs to be removed, cleaned, then reinstalled. Especially if the occurrence is sporadic. Its a fairly common issue on 99-01's with the round plug throttle body connector. An 03 could suffer the same though I guess.
    Last edited by dhurley34; 10-06-2016 at 09:08 PM.

  13. #88
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    I'm not finding any throttle position sensor for my car on RealOEM or FCP. There are two camshaft sensors and a crankshaft sensor. I'm only getting a P0420, no others. If it was a positioning sensor, I'd hope it'd show up as a code.
    Though the symptoms I have seem very much like one of throttle positioning sensor, which I apparently do not have(?).

    Here is a better video of my symptoms, around 2:44 I slightly touched the accelerator a few times:


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nVd1r6sBmU
    Last edited by xLukas; 10-08-2016 at 01:52 AM.
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  14. #89
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    There are two throttle position sensors, but both are inside the throttle body and aren't serviceable. When one of the sensors reads a different value than the other from a loose connection, it trips the DSC, EML, and brake warning lights, restricts power, restricts throttle function, and runs like shit. Just like yours is doing. It will not throw a code. More often then not, the throttle body connector needs to be cleaned and reseated. I'm not sure of other causes, but usually the EML light being tripped is from a problem with the drive by wire system.
    Last edited by dhurley34; 10-08-2016 at 09:36 AM.

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    Update: got my mirror pieces needed to get it looking well as well as replacing the camshaft position sensor, which was causing all my issues.



    Took off what I needed from the new mirror I bought as mine is working fine, and the new one's wiring isn't the same.









    Old style on the left. New on the right.
    Last edited by xLukas; 10-19-2016 at 05:16 PM.
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    Got my transmission software updated and got my recalls finished. The transmission feels much better; no more hard downshifting and less delay in shifting. I'd still likely have issues if I hadn't changed my transmission fluid, I'm glad I did.

    While my car was at the dealership a buddy of mine looked it over and helped me diagnose some issues:
    driveshaft guibo needs changing,
    transmission shift shaft seal is leaking,
    alternator belt looks a little worn,
    intermittent steering angle sensor fault (causes the trifecta of lights, eml, dsc and brake lamps lighting up randomly while driving),
    an O2 sensor is likely causing my P0420 code,
    windshield wipers not working intermittently caused by rain light sensor.

    Since I don't want to spend $200 on the rain light sensor, I disconnected fuse #15 for the rain light sensor so I can use the intermittent wipers.
    Likely not going to worry about the shift shaft seal since its little and not dripping onto the ground to my knowledge and due to it supposedly being a huge PITA to replace.


    Last but probably not least, my blower motor is pretty noisy and it stopped working one night. The next day it worked again. I'm thinking its the final stage resistor (FSR) or unit. I am not sure if these are related but I found today that my passenger floor is wet in the corner. My coolant level has not dropped significantly. I don't think it is the heater core or AC condenser. I checked my sunroof drainage pipe up in the headliner corner and it is fine. I poured water onto the roof and the drainage came out where it was supposed to. I also checked the cabin air filter drains. Those are clear.

    Any ideas?
    Last edited by xLukas; 11-06-2016 at 08:39 PM.

  17. #92
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    Usually passenger side floorboard wetness comes from a torn vapor barrier in that door. Almost certainly torn while replacing the window regulator some time in its life.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhurley34 View Post
    Usually passenger side floorboard wetness comes from a torn vapor barrier in that door. Almost certainly torn while replacing the window regulator some time in its life.
    No wetness on the bottom of the door panel. I looked up and the glovebox looked to be wet.
    Sunroof drain isn't unplugged either.



    Wish I could've seen that unplugged so I'd know that's the issue lol.
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  19. #94
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    Old:



    New:



    Yes, I know I still need paint. While installing I had a fun time lining it up due to the previous owner crashing the passenger fender and corner of the bumper damaging the side support bracket as well as possibly bending the steel bumper support. The bumper flexes badly in the middle. Though when I put my hood down, it straightens it out. This was really unsettling considering the amount I paid for it. It is probably due to the previous accident it was in like I said. I had to use zip ties on the passenger side support bracket since I could line it up correctly over the bolt hole. What is ironic is that the zip tied side has better fitment than the other side without them.



    I also need to center the bumper more eventually here once I feel like it and have time.
    (Now that I'm looking at the picture, it still looks like it is flexing a little with the hood down... damn.)
    To top it all off, I did not know facelifted sedans need an H11 to 9006 adapter to use the M Tech II bumper fog lights. The H11s are temporarily held in with electrical tape LOL.
    Facelifted sedan (H11) socket

    Every other E46s fog light (9006) socket

    H11 no fit.


    As well, I had to drill holes into the license plate mount since apparently it only accepts Euro plates. And the tow hook cover is garbage from the new bumper. I'm using my old one.

    When I eventually paint or get the bumper painted, I'll be worried about the flexing being an issue and immediately cracking the paint. I know when painting bumpers, you should use some sort of flex additive, but the flex shown is quite a bit.


    Sorry about all the complaining, but it's just what I've experienced.


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    Last edited by xLukas; 11-24-2016 at 05:04 AM.
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  20. #95
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    Sunroof was tilted while I was at work and it was raining. Got back home, checked and the floor was completely SOPPING wet. Keep in mind I've had a garbage bag on the carpet to stop it from getting onto the carpet from above. The top of the garbage bag was dry. Beneath (the carpet) was soaked almost all the way back to the passenger's seat. No water seemed to be coming from above. As I had said earlier the sunroof drain tube is fine. And the bottom of the door panel is dry, so no water is coming in from there.

    This is getting very bad, I do not want rust. It is sitting in the garage now with the heater to help dry it out.

    How would water from underneath be getting in? Or from elsewhere I cannot see where it is coming from? Any ideas?

    Update:

    I checked my drain on my passenger side and that hose is fine. I've seated it a couple times now. The edge of my headliner is a bit wet.. After re-seating the hose (even though it seemed fine) and putting a bit of silicone under the windshield where the windshield adhesive may have weakened, with the addition of all weather rubber floor mats, I've yet to see my passenger floor soaked again YET, thankfully. Though I'm still getting the damp headliner corner, unless that is residual wetness.
    Last edited by xLukas; 12-02-2016 at 06:49 PM.
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    It's been really cold it can't rain so much, so the wet floorboard has ceased.

    Was going well until I started the car about an hour and a half ago, and it is now in limp mode. I've restarted it twice to check if it would reset. P1633. There's no real definitive answer online and my universal code reader doesn't go above 1000. People are saying it is throttle adaptation related?

    Any thoughts? Need to get it fixed asap.



    Update: I've seen a few reports of throttle body being the issue.. but don't want to jump the gun just yet, especially since it requires programming I can't do. It was likely in the 20s when I tried starting it, maybe its just got fed up with the cold LOL.
    Last edited by xLukas; 01-12-2017 at 01:47 AM.
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  22. #97
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    I think this is what you are referring to, but you will need something more than a pocket reader to get all the right answers.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  23. #98
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    Limp mode only happened a couple times and disappeared. Maybe the throttle got stuck.


    I do need some assistance in diagnosing my cousin's E46.

    Battery is dying within minutes after shutting down. Battery replaced twice in the past year or under (same brand because the place that replaced it wouldn't give money back to try another type). Parasitic drain test yielded me 0.02-0.04 mA. Perfectly good. Though I did notice the radio fuse does spark when plugged back in; however this would be of no real importance since the parasitic drain test seemed to prove there was no 'drain.'
    Only other thing I could think would be the alternator. I didn't test that until tonight because he got it replaced within the past year or earlier. My results tonight were 13.7-13.8 running volts, dropping to 13.5 volts (for the alternator, not battery) if I remember correctly, when using accessories such as the blower motor/ratio, etc. The battery's was normal 12.2 volts.
    The alternator is normally at 14.2 volts for others. Could this 0.40 difference be the reason his car is dying almost instantaneously?
    Last edited by xLukas; 02-15-2017 at 12:11 AM.
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  24. #99
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    Well a battery at 12.2V is already 50% discharged, so that's not normal.

    12.6V or higher is full charge
    12.4V is 75% charged
    12.2V is 50% charged
    12V is 25% charged
    11.7 and below is fully discharged.

    So what I would do is check the condition of the battery clamps, ensure they are clean and tight fit on the battery, as well as the posts. Next follow the brown ground wire, is it tight on the body?

    While checking the alternator, you have to put a full load on it, which means all the lights turned on including the high beams or fog lamps, a door and trunk open for the interior lights, and any other accessories, like heated seats. At idle you should have at a minimum of 13.4Volts at the battery.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Well a battery at 12.2V is already 50% discharged, so that's not normal.

    12.6V or higher is full charge
    12.4V is 75% charged
    12.2V is 50% charged
    12V is 25% charged
    11.7 and below is fully discharged.

    So what I would do is check the condition of the battery clamps, ensure they are clean and tight fit on the battery, as well as the posts. Next follow the brown ground wire, is it tight on the body?

    While checking the alternator, you have to put a full load on it, which means all the lights turned on including the high beams or fog lamps, a door and trunk open for the interior lights, and any other accessories, like heated seats. At idle you should have at a minimum of 13.4Volts at the battery.
    I just went and checked the volts of the battery this morning, 100% overnight sitting. So no drain. Until I turned the key to the second position and put on accessories. It dropped to 50% almost immediately.

    The batter seems to the only culprit. It was replaced TWICE. This shop needs to give him a better battery because this one just won't work, obviously.

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