Lukas' E46 Maintenance/Build Thread

[dworthy]

The car has to be level when filling the trans. Also you need to be at full operating temp and in N or P, I like to cycle thru the gears to ensure it is pulling the fluid up as well.

[dhurley34]

The car has to be level when filling the trans. Also you need to be at full operating temp and in N or P, I like to cycle thru the gears to ensure it is pulling the fluid up as well.

I've had the best luck doing the final level check when the pan is between 90 and 100 degrees and using a infrared thermometer. The TIS describes a similar procedure and ensures you dont set the level when the trans is too hot and it end up being too low when cold/warm. The difference is about 8oz of fluid, or 1/4 quart.

[xLukas]

A DIY suggested if the pan is warm to the touch, it is time to top it off. I don't have a thermometer for it either haha.

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[xLukas]

Update: managed to strip the T40 fill bolt. Didn't undo the drain plug until I could remove the fill plug, but obviously that didn't work out. There is not nearly enough room down there to remove it easily. Need to somehow remove that bolt.

As well, whenever I start the car and turn off the car, a rush of coolant comes from the middle, I also hear a rush of air pushing out when shut down (like a squeal for a second). I checked both of my upper and lower hose connections; they're clipped in. It's got to be either the thermostat or water pump but I'm leaning more towards thermostat. Have got to have someone start it for me while I watch closely. Just sounds like I installed something wrong if its leaking a day or so after I installed all of these parts, though the only leaks could be from the hoses and they checked out.

In the meantime, today, I ordered my pre-painted fender on eBay while it was still on sale.

Update of the update:

Believe it is the thermostat.

Here's a video of the whining noise on shutdown.

https://youtu.be/zC5MuDcB9BI

[xLukas]

Replaced the thermostat with a Mahle-Behr. No leaks as of today after I just replaced it. Last time I got a leak from the thermostat was a day or so after replacing the radiator and the other components. Let's hope this one doesn't magically start leaking too.

Though I still am having the pressure release noise on shutdown. Maybe it's just excess air coming out of the expansion tank cap that I couldn't bleed through the bleed screw?

I could have most likely gotten away with just replacing the gasket (it looked a bit smushed), as the housing and thermostat look just fine.



Notice the different electrical connector design between the previous t stat (top) and the new Mahle-Behr (bottom) one:




The previous thermostat has more of an external connector where as the new one is integrated.
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[xLukas]

Found my pressure release noise.

It's the ICV! I believe this is normal. Identical to my noise posted above.

Skip to 4 minutes.

https://youtu.be/FYBaJAF0o14

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[dworthy]

Yes, that is normal, as the wagon does it too. I figure it is to release any air pressure inside the intake, and that is why is sound like a tire going flat sort of.

[xLukas]

Cleaned out my ICV. The lower intake boot was a complete PITA to take out. I never want to do that again. I saw no tears or holes in it while removed. It wasn't insanely sooty but I used some brake cleaner and cleaned it out the best I could. Idle is a bit better.

My prepainted fender from MBI Auto came in. Came to $205.96 total on sale, to my doorstep.



A couple tiny paint runs/drips only issues found.



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[dworthy]

Not bad for a pre-painted fender!

Yeah, that lower boot is fun, and when I did the wagon a year or so ago, I just tossed in a new one so I wouldn't have to worry for the next 10 years or so.

[xLukas]

It is on.



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[dworthy]

Next is the bumper, for it is looking rough.

It looks pretty close to matching, not bad for the price.

[xLukas]

Next is the bumper, for it is looking rough.

It looks pretty close to matching, not bad for the price.

Yep, it's too bad it's a hundred dollars just to ship the dang bumper, otherwise I would've probably ordered it by now.

Need to change out my transmission fluid still. Getting some hard downshifts when coming to a stop as well as the pressure build up issue (not sure if changing the fluid will do much for the pressure issue anyhow). I got these to remove the rounded fill plug. I'm just hoping I can get enough space to jam one hard enough into the plug, considering there's maybe a inch or so of space.



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[dhurley34]

If you cannot get the torx bolt to loosen, use a pair of vise grips on the outside of the bolt. If that doesn't work, some claim to be able to use the 17mm plug hole on the passenger side of the trans to fill. Cant confirm that though.

For the pressure issue, if it only happens after it sits for a few hours, it might just need a software update. I've had the update done and fluid changed and both did improve it, but it wasnt eleminated.

[xLukas]

If you cannot get the torx bolt to loosen, use a pair of vise grips on the outside of the bolt. If that doesn't work, some claim to be able to use the 17mm plug hole on the passenger side of the trans to fill. Cant confirm that though.

For the pressure issue, if it only happens after it sits for a few hours, it might just need a software update. I've had the update done and fluid changed and both did improve it, but it wasnt eleminated.

Unfortunately I can't vise grip the exterior:



Haven't heard of the 17mm plug hole, if you see anything about it, let me know.


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[dworthy]

Well you may have to drill out the extractor, while I had success with Pittsburg tools, they are not really the best of quality, as Harbor freight tends to be a bit cheap.

[xLukas]

Well you may have to drill out the extractor, while I had success with Pittsburg tools, they are not really the best of quality, as Harbor freight tends to be a bit cheap.

I could try using a dremel to make a slot to use a flathead to try and remove it. Not sure if I'll be able to get the flathead to have enough leverage to loosen it though.

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[dworthy]

It's going to be tight getting in there. What may help is lowering the tail of the transmission. I have use Torx bits and hammered them in and then threw away the bit and bolt as it was useless afterwards.

[xLukas]

Driving the car is nice. Definitely need to clean the windshield wipers or get new ones.

My dad just got two new cats for his E39 540i yesterday, now guess who keeps getting a P0420?! I'll give you a hint, it's me.

But then again, my DISA flap is has foul play and no tension. Need a kit for it. Not sure if that could cause that kind of code. I heard air leaks could cause P0420s as well.

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[dworthy]

That can be an aged post cat oxygen sensor, for I think you have replaced the other ones already?

[xLukas]

That can be an aged post cat oxygen sensor, for I think you have replaced the other ones already?

I haven't touched any of the O2 sensors yet. If it's bank 1, should that be the passengers or drivers side? And do we have one or two cats? Hoping only one because that's just more money LOL.

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[dhurley34]

Both cats are on the passenger side. There are 2 upstream sensors, and 2 downstream sensors. I believe it is the forward pipe for the first 3 cylinders. The sensor is downstream, close to bottom of the car where the tailpipe connects to the collector.

[dworthy]

+1

Bank 1 is cylinder 1-3 and Bank 2 is 4-6

Now if you see a code that say Bank 1 Sensor 2, that will be the 1-3 cylinder post cat sensor.

I would look at replacement, for BMW calls for 120k mile replacement, and IIRC you are around 150k?

I bought all 4 for the wagon and M3 from amazon, bosch sensors for about half the price BMW wants for them.

[xLukas]

Finally got the fill bolt off. Filled it up with about 4 quarts. Have to start her up tomorrow and run through the gears and refill when warm.

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[dworthy]

Would have liked to see what the pan looked like before cleaning. I am sure the magnet was covered in fluffy gray material.

Did the post cat oxygen sensor code go away?

[xLukas]

Would have liked to see what the pan looked like before cleaning. I am sure the magnet was covered in fluffy gray material.

Did the post cat oxygen sensor code go away?

It wasn't that bad. There was some gray fluid-like looking type of of stuff which were the metal specks.

I cleared the P0420 code. I'll likely try spark plug fouler(s). Oh and upon startup today my DSC, ABS and parking brake (yellow) came on........ this thing is never ending.

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