Lukas' E46 Maintenance/Build Thread

[xLukas]

Whats up guys? It's finally that time. The time of owning an E46 I've always wanted. The car that had got me into cars.
I started out with an '94 E34 525i, then a '98 E36 328i (still have it), and now an '03 325i. I've got threads for all of them if you've been following along.

Now, onto the good stuff. My '03 325i was built in November of 2002 (11/02). It is steel gray and has heated seats (had to mention it because none of my cars have had them, lets just say they're going to be great in the pacific northwest winter).

I bought this car on June 28th/29th of 2016 with a mileage of around 169,840+- miles.
I will be the third owner, once I get my next paycheck to transfer the title.
Paid $1800 for it with a list of things to fix.




About a year ago the previous owner hit a pole, but never replaced what was damaged. The front bumper and passenger fender need replacing.
I am going to be getting an M-Tech II front bumper from Khoalty to replace it.
A question I have though is that will my stock fog lights fit the bumper, or will I need to order ones along with the bumper?

I am also quite unsure which route I should go with for the fender replacement. I have found sellers on eBay who will paint me a fender and ship it to me for around $230, or buy a used fender on eBay for $200 that is factory painted (no worry of quality paint, factory paint is great), or lastly buy an un-color matched fender for around $50 on Craigslist and roll with it 'til I feel like spending the money on a good paint job for it.

The driver's side turn signal was blinking fast, until I took the bulb out, put it back in, and smacked the housing a few times. Probably a bad connection in the housing itself.
The door lock switch and hazards switch weren't working either. Took it out, taped the bottom of them and voila, fixed.

The engine is misfiring due to oil seeping into the spark plug holes. Valve cover gasket is coming tomorrow as well as new spark plugs and that should fix the issue.
The previous owner said they were using about two quarts of oil a week.. so either they're spilling oil from most every gasket imaginable, or I need to replace the cranckcase ventilation valve (CCV, PCV, etc) as well as the valve cover gasket.

Coolant leak as well. It drips not directly from the expansion tank drain valve, but alongside it, coming from above.

Rear window trim needs replacing as well as vertical motor for the driver's seat and a forward and backward motor for the passenger's seat.


Replacement Parts: (Updated 7/01/2016)
(1) Victor Reinz Valve Cover Gasket Set
(6) NGK BKR6EQUP Spark Plugs

[dworthy]

Have fun with your new toy!

What I would do is check to see if these guys have a bumper cover and fender in your color, would save on getting it painted: www.bmrparts.com

Nope, the M-tech uses a different fog lamp than the normal bumper.

Looks like you have the typical oil and coolant leaking that is the norm for an abused E-46. I would also look at getting the transmission oil and filter changed, as it maybe on the last leg for the fluid.

[xLukas]

Have fun with your new toy!

What I would do is check to see if these guys have a bumper cover and fender in your color, would save on getting it painted: www.bmrparts.com

Nope, the M-tech uses a different fog lamp than the normal bumper.

Looks like you have the typical oil and coolant leaking that is the norm for an abused E-46. I would also look at getting the transmission oil and filter changed, as it maybe on the last leg for the fluid.

Thanks! Do I have to contact through their email to get images of the parts before purchasing (if they don't already have them)?
The first owner was supposedly very meticulous on maintenance. The second owners only had this car for a couple years.



Valve cover gasket and associated gaskets replaced as well as spark plugs.

No more misfire as far as I know. Started it up and sat until warm, seemed fine.

And the reason why it was previously misfiring?



Oil on 'em.

New gaskets and siliconed half moons




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[dworthy]

You can email or call them to see what they have in stock since they are in CA, shipping shouldn't be too much.

Looks like the valve cover gasket was original, like the spark plugs.

Since that car has Washington tags, I am going to assume that you live there. Have you looked at replacing the CCV with a cold weather kit?

Also to help clean out the motor, I would run a little of ATF in there to clean it all out, and then do a filter and oil change about a month later.

I cannot tell from the pictures, but looks like bank 1 oxygen sensor has some electrical tape around the wire?

[xLukas]

You can email or call them to see what they have in stock since they are in CA, shipping shouldn't be too much.

Looks like the valve cover gasket was original, like the spark plugs.

Since that car has Washington tags, I am going to assume that you live there. Have you looked at replacing the CCV with a cold weather kit?

Also to help clean out the motor, I would run a little of ATF in there to clean it all out, and then do a filter and oil change about a month later.

I cannot tell from the pictures, but looks like bank 1 oxygen sensor has some electrical tape around the wire?

Hm, I wouldn't doubt shipping still being a bit killer.

But I've been thinking about the CCV being an issue since they had said they were consuming about two quarts a week. Though the VCG leak was quite massive. I'll see how it goes.

It needs an oil change already and the last time I checked I think the oil may have been overfilled, though I'm unsure. I need to check again.

The engine doesn't look that dirty in comparison to my E36 was, but I'll try some ATF in there sometime.

I think the black around the wires is just the factory sheathing/cover.

Yeah, I can't give a reading on the oil level. Dipstick tube must be covered everywhere

[xLukas]

May need to do an transmission fluid change. When cold it changes from first to second, but it is delayed.

Update: my transmission pan needs to be dropped to replace the gasket and filter, it is leaking as well, what a coincidence.

I went and jacked up the driver's side to look at the transmission placard. It reads this:

I've determined that I have the GM A5S-390R, commonly considered 5L40-E. It requires Texaco ETL 8072B or BMW 83 22 0 024 359 fluid.
Which isn't readily available..

Will any Dexron VI full synthetic fluid work? I know if I use the wrong fluid it can cause extensive damage. I want to make sure I am using the correct fluid.

So far I have seen people using Castrol Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF as well as Mobil 1 Dexron VI ATF.

[dworthy]

I have enclosed a couple of useful document.

I am not 100% sure if you can use the Dextron VI, while I have heard in the past it works, I cannot find it in writing.

[dhurley34]

Use Dexron 6. It is fully backwards compatible and now the recommended fill from GM for the A5S360R and A5S390R transmissions. In fact if you go to the dealer and ask for trans fluid, they will give you Dex 6. You will need to drain the current fluid, refill, drive, drain, and refill. I have 10,000 miles with Dex 6 in my GM trans with zero issues.

[xLukas]

Use Dexron 6. It is fully backwards compatible and now the recommended fill from GM for the A5S360R and A5S390R transmissions. In fact if you go to the dealer and ask for trans fluid, they will give you Dex 6. You will need to drain the current fluid, refill, drive, drain, and refill. I have 10,000 miles with Dex 6 in my GM trans with zero issues.

Any old general Dex VI fluid will work? Even Supertech Walmart Dex VI? Even though I'd be more likely to go with someone more name brand.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[dhurley34]

Yes even SuperTech. It is officially licensed by GM. Stay away from any brand that advertises Dex 6, but is not officially licensed by GM.

[xLukas]

Found a list of approved ATF


http://www.gmpowertrain.com/VehicleEngines/DEXRON-VI.aspx

Edit:

SuperTech Dexron VI seems to be approved on this webpage

http://www.aftonchemical.com/Insight...seHolders.aspx

[dhurley34]

Hmm. License must have expired. Still says GM approved on the bottle though.

[xLukas]

I am seeing positive reviews for the SuperTech Dex VI: http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...Number=1374598

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[CblockM3]

Thought I saw your E36 on craigslist! I didn't realize you were local. Nice new car! Still plan on getting rid of the E36?

[xLukas]

Thought I saw your E36 on craigslist! I didn't realize you were local. Nice new car! Still plan on getting rid of the E36?

Thanks!
My brother needs his own reliable source of transportation, so I'm making him pay me for it once he can.

Of course I have to fix the E46 before so.

[xLukas]

Called the stealership and confirmed that Dexron VI is what I should use.

Will likely be using Valvoline Dexron VI Full Synthetic ATF. It is on the GM Dexron VI approved-for-use list as well.

Trying to determine which brand I should order for the gasket and filter.

[xLukas]

Transmission pan may be lowered on the list of priorities right now.

I'm quite positive the oil pan is leaking. Oil filter housing gasket was replaced on February 24th of 2014 and I'm seeing no leaks from that area.




And a small coolant leak. I can't pinpoint it.

[dworthy]

Remove the lower tray and clean it all up. Then I would re-torque the oil pan bolts to ensure they are snug/tight. Then after a couple of days, you will see if it is leaking or not.

As for the coolant leaks, did you notice if the surge tank has been replaced? Also if the bottom of the radiator is sagging, like some people's pants, it is time for a new one.

[xLukas]

Update:

Oil pan is 100% leaking.
Oil filter housing had no oil residue coming from beneath it either.

As well I believe the radiator may need replacing. At first I thought it may have been the expansion tank, but it looks like the leak is coming from between the radiator neck and the upper hose.



It is leaking down the side, unless this next picture is another leak?




To top it off, the transmission does not like to shift to second when it isn't warmed up. I have to press on the accelerator to about 3k RPMs until it shifts up. Everything after that is perfect.

[dworthy]

If you plan on DIYing the oil pan, you will need an engine brace, as the front sub-frame will need to be dropped so you can have access to the pan.

Does the upper hose look original? I am thinking the o-ring has gone bad, and now is leaking out on you.

I would do a filter and fluid change on the transmission ASAP, see if that helps with the shifting.

Plenty of fun for the weekend if you ask me!

[xLukas]

If you plan on DIYing the oil pan, you will need an engine brace, as the front sub-frame will need to be dropped so you can have access to the pan.

Does the upper hose look original? I am thinking the o-ring has gone bad, and now is leaking out on you.

I would do a filter and fluid change on the transmission ASAP, see if that helps with the shifting.

Plenty of fun for the weekend if you ask me!

If only I had the money to replace all of these parts in one weekend, that'd be great.

The upper hose is of a Gates brand. Not genuine, but it seems to be working fine.
Is there an o-ring inside of the hose that meets with the radiator?

It also looks like coolant is coming from between where the metal and plastic meet on the rad itself as well.

[xLukas]

Quick bump. Has anyone had experience with Meistersatz gaskets? Getting genuine for the oil pan, but looking at another cheaper alternative for the transmission pan gasket/filter due to low funds.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[dworthy]

Sorry, can't help with the transmission stuff.

But what I can help with is the radiator hose, there is an o-ring about 1/2 inch inside that plastic neck on the hose itself. I have seen them get pinched in the past and start to leak, you could drain the radiator a little to empty the upper half of the radiator and take a look at the o-ring. Also might just be worth taking the ring down to a parts store to see if they have one on hand if it looks messed up.

[xLukas]

Well... oil pan gasket has been replaced.

When draining the oil it shot extremely far out and got EVERYWHERE. The oil catch pan splashed it everywhere as well. I think the engine was overfilled with oil.



After lowering the subframe, this happened: Engine mount gave out finally.




As well as this my CCV to dipstick tube hose was completely severed.

Replaced it with some 3/8" heater hose (the associate said it is fine for oil pressure) from O'Reilly's. I bought around two feet of it for a grand total of $2.60, but didnt need that much. I bought more than I needed because I'd rather have more than needed rather than not enough.

Car is at my best friend's place, where we changed the gasket, until I order and get my engine mounts.

I want to replace the CCV with an oil catch can, but I'm wary of doing so because I don't want to accidentally blow up my valve cover or hyrdolock the engine by plugging some hole I shouldn't have.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[dworthy]

Good thing you put down a piece of cardboard!

Sadly with the oil filled motor mounts, they tend to give away easier than the old solid style.

Yeah the heater hose should work for now, it will also help with the oil lose as well and should help with the vacuum leak.