Related to coilover, moreover the strut length of the setup.
Back into a BMW, this time a track rat....and it won't be BMW powered and no, not a V8 either!
Couldn't help myself, boosted e36 m52 street car in progress also!
My TCK DAs look like that. Very little droop travel. Part off my issue is that the GC Race camber plates pull the strut shaft up higher than the TCK camber plates do.
Also, i drive 6.5hrs to Watkins Glen every year and once had a traffic nightmare trip to NJMP that took almost 8 hours. My Cobra Suzuka is pretty comfy though, no issues really.
I'm going to be testing out my Cobra Suzuka with an 8 hour drive to High Plains. It has been very comfortable so far, although I haven't sat in it for this long of a time before. We'll see how it goes.
2003.5 BMW M3 Coupe (Daily Driver) | Titanium Silver | Black Nappa Leather | 6MT | Cold Weather Package | Premium Package | Navigation | Harmon Kardon | Matte Black Grills | Dice iPod Integration
1998 M3 Sedan (Track Car) | Estoril Blue on Dove Gray | 5MT | Dinan Cold Air Intake and Stage 2 ECU | Stromung Catback | TC Kline Double Adjustable Coilover Kit | APEX ARC 8 | Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec | PFC 08 Brake Pads | Cobra Suzuka GT Seat | Schroth Quick Fit Harnesses | Illuminated ZHP Shift Knob
On the Revshift SF bushings one side has a thicker "outside lip" than the other. Can anyone tell me what side goes on top - towards the bottom of the car?
See the red and blue lines below.
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Last edited by GG Emerican; 10-04-2017 at 11:03 PM.
If you read on the bushing it actually tells you. Front Bottom, Rear Bottom, etc....
And that air freshener is awful lol.
Last edited by exvitermini2; 10-04-2017 at 11:05 PM.
Back into a BMW, this time a track rat....and it won't be BMW powered and no, not a V8 either!
Couldn't help myself, boosted e36 m52 street car in progress also!
Some more updates. Times like this I'm glad the car is a weekend/track only car. can leave it on jack stands for weeks at at time and not have to worry about anything.
So got the rear inner and outer (upper & lower) bushings out of the control arms. Inner ones were cake with the press but the outers on the hub were a pain. A friend had a large ball joint removal tool (a big C clamp with a nut on the end) and it worked well to get them out. Hardest part is getting the thing to line up and bending the heat shield to get it to align.
Overall shot of all the new bushings for the rear
New ones
Tool
Old ones - not as bad as I figured they would be. Had a lot more play in them than the new ones which will be interesting to see if I can feel the difference.
New ones in
Also got the subframe sway bar reinforcements welded in - ignore the dirt I cleaned it up and painted it
Finished up:
Reinforcements welded in on the camber arms. Turned out nice!
Last edited by GG Emerican; 10-09-2017 at 09:42 PM.
Be at Dominion Raceway on Nov 18th for the HPDE event. Figure some track time is better than nothing until I can get back in it with NASA. Going to try to hit some NASA events at Summit this year along with Dominion if they are back.
This thread is super helpful. Thanks for keeping the updates coming!
Ken
95' Dakar M3
(GT35) 500whp+ and no clue what I'm doing....
Steedspeed Twin-scroll Manifold, Wiseco 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Supertech Valvetrain, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) Twin-Scroll 1.06 AR, Schrick Cams, TRM Tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix, Coilovers, Chassis Stuffs.
If you're using Chrome, search for photobucket extensions on the chrome store
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So I picked up a couple goodies over the last couple of weeks/months for the M3. Working to get these installed before the 2018 season but it's terrible working in 10 degree weather (even in a garage).
First was a Z3 steering rack. The local u-pick junkyard had a Z3 in the lot so I decided to check it out. Car wasn't in bad shape and the rack was still there so I decided to pull it. Was not very hard to remove at all.
Need to order some new I/O tie rods. Thinking of getting them from FCP Euro as they'll come with a lifetime warranty if anything happens.
Second was an M50 manifold from the same junkyard (another trip). It was off an older 5 series and was cake to get off because the windshield cowl wasn't in the way.
Got a M50 manifold kit from another member to get it installed. Going to replace most vacuum and coolant lines while I'm there.
Third was a smaller but needed purchase... the TRM NPT sensor adapter for the head. Was told some S52 engines have the an extra port in the head for a sensor, and some don't. If mine doesn't I'll remove the TB coolant lines and put a coolant temp sensor there. My current sensor is in a Tee off of the line running from the head to the TB.
Fourth is the radiator cover since I had a 4 cyl one. Was $2 at the local junkyard.
Fifth is a directly for the car but will be used on it. Picked up an Eastwood mig 135 when they had it on sale. I've never welded before so this will hopefully be a good machine to learn on. Waiting to get a gas bottle before I start.
A few minor questions though... I've heard S52 headers are hit or miss as far as performance gains. Are they worth getting with little engine mods? Only thing I'll have done is an intake and M50 manifold. Was thinking about getting a set ebay or Raceland long tubes and having a custom "track pipe" made.
Also what about getting the car tuned? Is there more power to be obtained by getting a professional to tune it with the above mods?
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Last edited by GG Emerican; 01-04-2018 at 01:50 PM.
I'd say there's definitely power to be had from getting the tune optimized. Especially if you're currently running the stock tune. I've had great success with Zack from 22rpd.com (Vollosso on here). He's easy to work with, responds in a timely manner to inquiries and he managed to squeeze an extra 10whp and 8-9 ft/lbs from a tune that another high profile tuner told me was all I was going to get.
Few more pictures since the Tapatalk app allows for easy uploading.
Started taking the intake manifold off and found I don't have the plugged port on the head. No problem though as I'll just remove the TB coolant lines. The car doesn't move in the winter and won't see very many cold days at the track.
Also got the welder setup with the cart and some tools. Still need the welding gas bottle but at $400 it's not cheap.
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Thanks for the response. Roughly how much did it cost you for the tune? And was this with basically a stock engine? I know if I do cams, 3.5" intake/maf there is potential for a lot more.
Only reason I ask is because I have plans to ditch the S52 in the future, when it sh**s the bed on me. Plan on going to an LS but this could be 6 months to 2 years away.
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No. My motor was built. Ported head, oversized valves, cams, 3.5 intake system, 11.5:1 compression, etc... It seems that other tuners don't have the right definition files for hacking the OEM DME. Zack has refined the definition files and can tune more precisely and completely. And his pricing was very reasonable. Have a look at his website.
Oh, and this may sound stupid but MAKE BLOODY SURE you remove the paper towel in your intake ports before you bolt the manifold back on. Don't ask why I'm saying this or how I know that can be a problem !!
400 for a gas bottle? You can normally lease them from a gas shop(1-150ish), it's what I do for my oxy/acet, argon, and 75/25 mig mix.
Back into a BMW, this time a track rat....and it won't be BMW powered and no, not a V8 either!
Couldn't help myself, boosted e36 m52 street car in progress also!
99% of the images don't work.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
You have Photobucket to thank for that.
This is the temp sender that I used. Remove the screw-in connector in the head that the TB coolant line attaches to and install this- done!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-323092
1993 E36 325is
2003 E46 325iT
SpeedHunters feature: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/...t-dtm-tribute/
APEX feature: https://www.apexraceparts.com/blog/m...-arc-8-wheels/
Well an update but nothing much has changed on the car. I still have it and it's sitting in the garage. Gets started and driven around every now and then...
I bought a house earlier this year and all my free time and money has been put towards that. The house only has a one car garage with a gravel driveway so hard to work on the car. I attended a few small events (track night in Ameraica) but that's it. Kinda taking a year off I guess.
Have a few small things waiting to be installed this winter:
- Get the Z3 rack (junkyard) installed with new inner and outer tie rods
- Found a LTW wing from a guy down in Richmond on CL - still needs to be installed
- Buy a set of long tube headers. Will likely be ebay or raceland as I don't have the money to blow on a set of nice ones... or if I can find a cheap track pipe.
Hopefully more updates to come!
Last edited by GG Emerican; 11-11-2018 at 09:32 PM.
I've haven't been posting a lot lately and looks like Photobucket has fixed their issue. So all of my photos on the previous pages should be good!
In addition, here is some more of what I've been doing. Trying to post these through PB... hopefully they come out good.
Finally got around to putting the LTW wing on! love the way it looks. Had to get some new bolts and washers but don't think it's going anywhere!
Also picked up a Bimmerworld trackpipe and catback from a guy off CL. He bought a S/C E36 M3 from an auction and couldn't pass inspection with the catless exhaust. Plus he said to was too loud for him. This should be going on in the next couple of weeks!
I sold my old Z3 rack due to needing extra cash at the time. However I got another! and some new I/O tie rods + boots. These will be going on when the exhaust is - waiting for my buddy to free up a couple cars in his shop so I can use his lift. The M3 will also be getting an oil change.
So no major updates however I hope to have some more stuff soon! I also picked up a GoPro and want to mount it inside the car to get some video on-track. Mainly to check my line, see where to improve, and what I'm doing wrong. Also to post some vids here!
Last edited by GG Emerican; 02-06-2019 at 07:44 PM.
I pulled the trigger on an S54 oil filter housing to put on my S52. Can anyone reference me to a detailed guide (non-detailed works too) on what to do?
So far I'm thinking I need:
- AN oil fitting adapter - converts the 2 stock oil cooler ports on housing to AN for hoses - something like https://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e36-e4...4aAr-YEALw_wcB
- S54 Oil filter housing (obviously) + new gasket
- -10 AN lines (what the above fitting converts to)
- Oil cooler? Something like a 10 row Mishimoto or equivalent
- Oil distribution block - to connect vanos oil line and keep factory oil pressure (already have one set-up for my aftermarket oil temp/pressure gauges)
Seems easy enough but am I forgetting anything? The s54 housing comes with a build in thermostat.
Also does the oil filter housing require removal of the intake manifold? I believe the alternator must come out along with the radiator and fans
Updated parts list on the first post with things done. Unfortunately no pictures yet.
Got the S54 OFH installed along with the Mishimoto 19 row oil cooler. Needed the VAC Vanos adapter (14 to 12 mm) for the vanos line as well as the VAC AN adapter kit to convert the S54 ports to AN. Put a new Steward water pump in and flushed the coolant. Replaced the junk green stuff with Zerex G48 which is an OEM equivalent.
Still want to get the Z3 rack installed and get the alignment dialed in before the season starts. Also need to get a trailer as the car is becoming less and less "daily-able". If anyone has a 16-20 ft open car trailer for sale let me know!!!
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