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Thread: Bennys E36 M3 Sedan Track Build - Updated Regularly

  1. #51
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    Hankook RS3s are on clearance at Tirerack right now, looks like $140 in the size you mentioned earlier: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....=54WR7Z222XLV2

    I've had them on for a few days, seem pretty good on the street. Review say that they grip well and last a while too.

  2. #52
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    Get the Hankook RS3. They are well-known and proven in quality/grip. Many of us have run them as street or HPDE/TT tires with lots of success. I got two years out of mine in mixed track/street use (they lived on my 328iC for a few months, pulling commuter duty) and even though they were at the wear bars when I took them off a few weeks ago, still pulled some 1:28 lap times at Summit Point with 'em.

    They're on clearance right now, I just bought another set of 245's to use for rain and trailer duty, among other things.
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  3. #53
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    So more and more getting done to the car to to get it ready for Feb 25-26 event at Dominion. Dropped the car off with Jim and he welded in a 4 point roll-bar. Turned out really nice but I just need to prep it and paint it. Donít know if I want to do something flashy or more subtle. He also welded in tabs for the sunroof although I donít have any pics of it.

    She doesnít like getting on trailers! Iíll be driving her to Dominion as I live very close. But want to start going to VIR and Summit so trailering it might be coming soon.
















    And a thanks to everyone for the tire suggestions and advice. I would likely have gotten the RS3s but I found an awesome deal on the Federal 595 RS-R and decided to go with them. A lot of people have had success with them so we will see. Total came out to $100 shipped for each tire. For that price it was hard to go with something else.







    Going to get the tires mounted ASAP and get the car aligned. Will roll the fenders as much as needed to make everything fit but based on things Iíve read it shouldnít be bad.

    And the last thing I need to do before the event is install the SS clutch line and put in the UUC CDV delete fitting. Should be fairly straight forward but I have heard the slave can be a b!tch sometimes when introducing air into the system (putting in the new line). Also going to put Redline D4 ATF in the transmission while Iím down there.





    Picked up this Schwaben compact pressure bleeder. Hopefully it does the trick! Should be nice and easy to use at the track to quickly bleed the brakes when needed.


  4. #54
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    A power bleeder will make bleeding the slave cylinder pretty easy, I didn't have problems with mine.

    Why are you loading the car backward on the trailer? Usually that's not advised due to tongue weight.
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  5. #55
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    Means he has most of the weight forward of the rear axle...I think he will be ok. Not to mention with a dualie he won't really even notice it anyway. That is a rather long trailer!
    Back into a BMW, this time a track rat....and it won't be BMW powered and no, not a V8 either!
    Couldn't help myself, boosted e36 m52 street car in progress also!

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG Emerican View Post

    Going to get the tires mounted ASAP and get the car aligned. Will roll the fenders as much as needed to make everything fit but based on things I’ve read it shouldn’t be bad.
    You're gonna need to roll the rear lips and the upper arch as well. I am moving to a 245 because of the slight rub I was getting out of the rear. Wasnt a bunch, just the outside edge on the very top of the fender. But I had to run like -2.7 camber in the rear to keep it from getting bad.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by exvitermini2 View Post
    Means he has most of the weight forward of the rear axle...I think he will be ok. Not to mention with a dualie he won't really even notice it anyway. That is a rather long trailer!
    Quote Originally Posted by Brake_L8 View Post
    A power bleeder will make bleeding the slave cylinder pretty easy, I didn't have problems with mine.

    Why are you loading the car backward on the trailer? Usually that's not advised due to tongue weight.
    Yeah honestly we had to back the car on to avoid destroying the front bumper. Could have took it off but the trailer was pretty stout and the load wasn't anything for my buddy's dually. Also only drove around an hour to the shop.

    Probably would have taken the bumper off it was any different trailer or smaller truck.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    You're gonna need to roll the rear lips and the upper arch as well. I am moving to a 245 because of the slight rub I was getting out of the rear. Wasnt a bunch, just the outside edge on the very top of the fender. But I had to run like -2.7 camber in the rear to keep it from getting bad.
    Not sure what my camber is at now and unfortunately don't have camber arms. My guess would be around - 2 but I'll know when I get the alignment.

    Tires are getting mounted now, then'll throw them on tomorrow after work and install the Motorsports Hardware!

    Finishing up painting (spraying) the roll bar tonight.. What a PITA!

  9. #59
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    Looking good. Jim is a good guy. Just dropped my car off today with him to finish a full cage.

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  10. #60
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    Yeah he was easy to work with and very nice. Also charged a good price for a welded in roll-bar. Cheaper than most bolt in bars. Although my car was out of commission around 2 weeks but he was really bus and short handed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Few more images. Installed the wheel studs, spacers, and lug nuts from Motorsports Hardware. 10 mm spacer was too small and the tire is hitting on part of the spring. Likely going to get a 15 mm (although 12 may clear) to clear. Hopefully in time for the Feb 25 event at Dominion.

    Wheels: 17x9 +41 D-Force LTW5. 255/40 Federal 595 RS-R. 10 mm spacer up front.

    Front is going to need some camber to. Think its around -1.5 right now and want it at close to -3. Rears need to be rolled so I'll also roll the fronts at that time.



    Excuse my snapchat picture

  11. #61
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    You sure you only want 3 degrees up front? My car handles like a boss both on the autocross course on Hoosiers as well as on the street with RS3V2s with 4 degrees up front. And the tire wear is not unacceptable.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    You sure you only want 3 degrees up front? My car handles like a boss both on the autocross course on Hoosiers as well as on the street with RS3V2s with 4 degrees up front. And the tire wear is not unacceptable.
    Between 3 and 3.5 for now. 4 might be possible in the future. I'll also have to see what the camber plates are capable of.

  13. #63
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    I am running -3.2 up front with 0 toe and -2.8 in the rear with 0.5 toe in per side. Its the toe that will eat up tires.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    I am running -3.2 up front with 0 toe and -2.8 in the rear with 0.5 toe in per side. Its the toe that will eat up tires.
    Hoping to get the front dialed in with similar camber and hopefully no toe. Rear may be a little harder with stock control arms.

    Not taking it to a BMW or race shop so will have to take what I can get. Especially since it'll be free. Going to do have to see what's adjustable on the rear. I've read there are eccentric bolts on the lower part of the hub that can provide some camber. But they're usually seized.

    Fenders to be rolled Weds or Thurs. Alignment hopefully first of next week. 15 mm spacers will be here Weds as well. Lug studs are hand tight so need to torque then and put some loctite on them.

    Got the SS clutch line and CDV delete fitting on the car. Was a bit more difficult than it should have been. Mainly with the available space to work in. Have to bleed the clutch today. Hopefully I don't have to remove the slave and hand bleed it.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG Emerican View Post
    Hoping to get the front dialed in with similar camber and hopefully no toe. Rear may be a little harder with stock control arms.

    Not taking it to a BMW or race shop so will have to take what I can get. Especially since it'll be free. Going to do have to see what's adjustable on the rear. I've read there are eccentric bolts on the lower part of the hub that can provide some camber. But they're usually seized.
    You will most likely need new eccentric bolts for the rear. Definitely worth replacing them so you can adjust the rear camber.

    FWIW, I'll share the alignment specs that I just had dialed in yesterday. Not sure if you are going to trailer the car to events or street-drive it, and these may be a touch aggressive for street driving, because #SuperSeriousRacekor and stuff.

    Front
    Caster: 6*
    Camber: -3.2*
    Toe: -0.03" (per side)

    Rear
    Camber: -2*
    Toe: 0.05" (per side)

    I was fighting an understeer issue, and the car had less front caster/more front camber. So, we reversed the two which should help with initial turn-in.

    If you have a Motive power bleeder, it will help exponentially in bleeding the clutch.
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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brake_L8 View Post
    You will most likely need new eccentric bolts for the rear. Definitely worth replacing them so you can adjust the rear camber.

    FWIW, I'll share the alignment specs that I just had dialed in yesterday. Not sure if you are going to trailer the car to events or street-drive it, and these may be a touch aggressive for street driving, because #SuperSeriousRacekor and stuff.

    Front
    Caster: 6*
    Camber: -3.2*
    Toe: -0.03" (per side)

    Rear
    Camber: -2*
    Toe: 0.05" (per side)

    I was fighting an understeer issue, and the car had less front caster/more front camber. So, we reversed the two which should help with initial turn-in.

    If you have a Motive power bleeder, it will help exponentially in bleeding the clutch.
    If you don't mind me asking.. what's your ride height front and rear?

    And anyone have experience with adjustable rear lower control arm bushings? Such as:

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...RwEaAvmE8P8HAQ

    Are these OEM replacement or allow for more camber adjustment?
    Last edited by GG Emerican; 02-17-2017 at 10:29 PM.

  17. #67
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    I have the ride height on the sheet at home, I'll look tonight and get back to you.

    Re: rear camber. The stock rear lower control arms use eccentric bolts and allow for a mild camber adjustment. That's what my car has. It needed new rear arms (they bend easily) and at the time, I was keeping the build to strict TTD points/rules so I couldn't go aftermarket. The Whiteline bushings will allow for more adjustment, as will a totally aftermarket set of rear arms. Look at what your goals are for the car and build to that. Replacement of the rear lower arms is a pain - you have to unbolt the diff and push it around a bit - so you don't really want to do the job too often.
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  18. #68
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    Well... NASA event this weekend at Dominion was canceled. They said the track hadn't done a few upgrades that were thought to be done?

    NASA already had two events here and everything seemed fine? Any ideas?

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG Emerican View Post
    Well... NASA event this weekend at Dominion was canceled. They said the track hadn't done a few upgrades that were thought to be done?

    NASA already had two events here and everything seemed fine? Any ideas?
    Chris posted a reply on the NASA Mid-Atlantic Facebook page:

    The entire facility is still under construction. There are erosion issues that are being corrected but have affected runoff areas. The old curbing is being modified and new curbing on exits needs to be put in place so as to not destroy the edges of the asphalt. There has been a very weird issue with growing grass and that has lead to exposed rocks that need to be removed. There has been settling of pavement in some braking zones that needs to be repaired but it is traditional for the asphalt/paving company to shut down from Christmas to feb. An access road was placed on drivers right of the uphill esses since last year. Guardrail is slated to be placed in between the track and that road. It's not there yet and the construction of the road changed the nature of the runoff there significantly compared to last year. The track is willing and they are addressing these things but just ran out of time. It is my job to provide the best product to NASA members that is fun and safe. I've made four site visits over the past 3 weeks, three of those in the past 10 days. The last thing I ever want to do is cancel an event and believe me this was close, but I made the decision based upon what I felt was in the best interests of my drivers. If you want the specific boring details you can call me.
    Bummer for sure, but it just means you've got more time to prep for VIR at the end of March!
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  20. #70
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    Alright so the car definitely needs an alignment and to be raised in the front. Was rubbing the front fender on dips and some turns. Ordered new rear eccentric bolts as well.

    Rear is good but want to get the camber dialed in even and close to - 2 and toe close to 0.

    But she's starting to look good! Alignment will likely be next week after I raise it and get the bolts. Going to look for a reputable shop to do a race alignment rather than getting a mediocre one done for free. Anyone know a good shop close to Fredericksburg? Know RRT is awesome but it's a bit of a hike for me.



    Last edited by GG Emerican; 02-27-2017 at 09:26 AM.

  21. #71
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    Note steering wheel position vs actual wheel position.



    This is the other side



    Can barely fit my fingers between the wheel and fender





    How the camber is looking


  22. #72
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    So I am planning on doing the rear end bushings of the car soon.. mainly including rear subframe bushings and diff bushings but also new ball joints throughout. Subframe/diff will be powerflex black and rear ball joints will be OEM

    At this time should I also the the reinforcement for the rear subframe and trailing arm? I assume the answer is yes but not sure what everyone has done as far as installing them. The problem is I don't want to pay a shop to do everything (remove subframe, etc) just to get to the point to weld in the reinforcements.. and can't weld them in myself. And don't have a way to transport the car without the rear subframe (wheels/suspension) in it.

    Any ideas?

    What have you guys done?

  23. #73
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    Your M3 should have subframe plates from the factory. Unless you're talking about reinforcing the rear sway bar brackets on the subframe itself.

    You don't need the subframe off for the RTAB reinforcement. The shop can take off the arms and weld that way.

  24. #74
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    Well a little while since the last update. Not much has changed. Chasing down an issue in the rear with metal clinking together when turning. Think it's the dust shield so likely going to remove them.

    Did get an alignment, change the diff fluid, and put in my harness. Unfortunately no typical "on the alignment rack" picture.

    Here is the harness.. Nothing special.



    Main reason for lack of work is because I got a new "project". It's a 2000 Ford E350 SuperDuty, with the 7.3 powerstroke. Was a work van for my company and located in Memphis. Has 200K on it but been religiously maintained. Plan on using it as a tow rig and convert the back into a camper/mobile workshop. Blank canvas inside just needs to be cleaned up. For $1000 it was too good for a deal to pass up. Drove it 12 hrs, 900 miles back from Memphis with no issues.

    Got a ladder rack for practically free. Working on getting it installed then building the rest out of electrical conduit.




    Interior: Want to get an andriod head-unit to get Google Maps, GPS, back-up camera, music, and apps such as Torque Pro to get access to sensor readings (boost, trans temp, EGR, oil temp, coolant, etc).




    Now to find an open car trailer! Want something similar to this and likely will make the tire rack.

    Last edited by GG Emerican; 04-09-2017 at 10:36 PM.

  25. #75
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    Awesome, that van should be fantastic for track duties and everyone loves the old 7.3. What's it rated to tow?
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