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Thread: LSx Oil Cooler install on E36

  1. #1
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    LSx Oil Cooler install on E36

    This is a super easy job, but didn't see anything anywhere even on LS1tech for installing one.

    I also noticed Vorshlag used the sandwich filter adapter, but I didn't really want to lower the oil filter any further and figured might as well use the LSx OEM oil cooler location. I knew it was going to be a tight fit with the long tube headers, but wasn't too bad after making my own tool.




    Picked up my oil cooler & adapter plate,



    I knew it would be close to the headers so to try and keep it cooler and being the "gold dei wrap nut I am"...



    Next I decided where I wanted to put it, figured behind the kidneys would be perfect. I had to pull the bottom of the radiator shroud cover apart because it was hitting slightly.



    Made some mounting brackets, and mounted the cooler in place, I have it sitting right on top of the bumper support with some rubber under to prevent vibration, but it gave it just enough support under.



    painted them



    drained the oil and then got to removing the old block off plate (located on the driver side of the oil pan right above the oil filter)



    old vs new



    backside



    Next I mounted the plate,



    As you can see that back bolt was a Pain because of the header clearance so I had to modify a Allen key to clear it and make it work.



    Lastly ran the lines up to the cooler and tied them up and out of the way, filled oil, ran the car for a bit and then put some more oil in and good to go!

    So far so good!

    No leaks or issues, going to get some numbers this week and compare them to before.
    Last edited by Bsaint; 06-17-2016 at 01:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    I have essentially the same setup, though I went with a 42 row Earls unit. LS makes a lot of heat!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
    I have essentially the same setup, though I went with a 42 row Earls unit. LS makes a lot of heat!
    Yeah it does!

    If I was to do it again or recommend to those who want to do it, is I'd go with a wider and less tall cooler for fitment purposes.

  4. #4
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    good writeup. the lines are super close to the headers though. but as long as they never spring a leak it'll be gucci
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  5. #5
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    What were your oil temps before? Surprised they're high without a hood. LS honestly run really cool compared to iron block motors (like a 2JZ)
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
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    IG : sdobart

  6. #6
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    in for numbers.

    any concerns about trapping air in the cooler with the fittings being on the bottom?
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  7. #7
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    that's a good point. but wouldn't anything mounted higher than the sump have the potential to trap air?
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  8. #8
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    Looks familiar.



    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  9. #9
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    By placing the cooler upside down, air is not the problem. What I see as the problem is every time you start the car, you run few seconds without oil pressure until the cooler fills up and then the rest of the system...

    OP probably did that for oil change purposes, so that all of the oil comes out, but I'd rather have a little bit of oil left in the cooler than "dry" starting engine every time...

    Cool project nontheless.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaxchrisfla View Post
    Looks familiar.



    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    hahah yes it does! now cover those lines too!

    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    By placing the cooler upside down, air is not the problem. What I see as the problem is every time you start the car, you run few seconds without oil pressure until the cooler fills up and then the rest of the system...

    OP probably did that for oil change purposes, so that all of the oil comes out, but I'd rather have a little bit of oil left in the cooler than "dry" starting engine every time...

    Cool project nontheless.
    I wouldn't really call it dry starting the system unless I was extremely low on oil. But yes the cooler will take a few seconds to fill as the car warms up which I'm fine with considering I don't really need the cooler to do it's job until the temps are hot anyways.
    Last edited by Bsaint; 06-22-2016 at 04:04 PM.

  11. #11
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    Plan on it. One of the fittings was leaking when I primed the motor, so I need to address that then I can wrap the lines and reinstall the header.
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  12. #12
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    Depending on what oil pump you have, it'll take ~2.5-3.5 seconds to full the oil cooler at ~1 quart capacity.

    With my 19-row oil cooler, I was pegging a 250* gauge in 75-85* ambient temps, I'd estimate it at 275* oil due to how long it would take the gauge to come back down. Now with the 42-row, I hit a max of 240 in 95* ambient temps.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
    Depending on what oil pump you have, it'll take ~2.5-3.5 seconds to full the oil cooler at ~1 quart capacity.

    With my 19-row oil cooler, I was pegging a 250* gauge in 75-85* ambient temps, I'd estimate it at 275* oil due to how long it would take the gauge to come back down. Now with the 42-row, I hit a max of 240 in 95* ambient temps.
    wow that seems high, what kind of driving conditions? straight track use?

    The most I saw on the street was 220 and about 255 at the track.

    I'm hoping to keep temps around 200 still need to do some heavier driving this week to get my after numbers, but been to rainy here lately.

  14. #14
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    It's a dedicated track car, ducted front end with a vented hood. If I gave the oil cooler its own dedicated inlet and outlet, I may be able to drop a few more degrees but packaging and the size of the cooler negate any other location other than in front of the radiator.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inflame View Post
    It's a dedicated track car, ducted front end with a vented hood. If I gave the oil cooler its own dedicated inlet and outlet, I may be able to drop a few more degrees but packaging and the size of the cooler negate any other location other than in front of the radiator.
    What grade oil are you using? I've noticed that the heavier viscosity tends to run hotter...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    What grade oil are you using? I've noticed that the heavier viscosity tends to run hotter...
    I agree and it does, I run M1 15-50 as recommend by local corvette w2w guys.
    Last edited by Inflame; 06-24-2016 at 02:58 PM.

  17. #17
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    I had an almost duplicate setup of yours. That radiator wound up too small to handle oil cooling duties. I switched to a much bigger rad and will post pics if I can find them. There are buried in another thread here but I can't seem to locate it at the moment.

    On edit: Pic added
    i-bvBdT6r-M.jpg
    Last edited by Maynor; 06-29-2016 at 07:39 PM.
    John
    E36 LS3

  18. #18
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    Just an FYI for anyone flipping through this thread. GM makes an OEM oil cooler adaptor/manifold. It fits great with the tight clearance of headers we see with our chassis and uses 10mm bolts instead of an allen heads. A HUGE advantage when installing with the headers already bolted up. Dorman part #625-168 or ACDelco part #20828695
    (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

    Best part of this OEM solution is the integrated check valve. It won't pump oil into the cooler if pressure drops below a critical level (I forget the exact psi at the moment). I carefully bent the aluminum hard lines for extra clearance as well.





    I cut the crimped band off at the rubber piece, which then exposed a double lip to use to hold the custom lines onto. Worked great for me. Apologies, I should have taken more pictures while I did this. I can take more if anyone would like.
    Last edited by pMak26; 07-07-2016 at 08:25 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pMak26 View Post
    Just an FYI for anyone flipping through this thread. GM makes an OEM oil cooler adaptor/manifold. It fits great with the tight clearance of headers we see with our chassis and uses 10mm bolts instead of an allen heads. A HUGE advantage when installing with the headers already bolted up. Dorman part #625-168 or ACDelco part #20828695
    (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

    Best part of this OEM solution is the integrated check valve. It won't pump oil into the cooler if pressure drops below a critical level (I forget the exact psi at the moment). I carefully bent the aluminum hard lines for extra clearance as well.





    I cut the crimped band off at the rubber piece, which then exposed a double lip to use to hold the custom lines onto. Worked great for me. Apologies, I should have taken more pictures while I did this. I can take more if anyone would like.
    Very valuble info!

    Any details or pictures of how you connected to the lines after you removed the crimping from the hose?
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  20. #20
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    this is brilliant.
    and we can just cut off the hose and TIG aluminum AN fittings directly to the aluminum hardlines.
    then we have the modularity that makes assembly/disassembly easy and leak-proof fittings.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  21. #21
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    Apologies for the delay, its been a shit week.

    Definitely welding 10an fitting onto the aluminum pipe is the best solution. For now everything is holding up with good hose clamps.

    Here is what the hose looks like from factory:


    And here it is once you cut the crimp connection off:


    Bad pic of how mine is routed.

  22. #22
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    Just wrapped up a track day yesterday and have a few things to work on. Oil temps were getting into the 300 range so this is first on my list

    pMak26 - your photo links seem to be broken, any chance you could update?

    Has anyone settled on the best fitment/capacity heat exchanger?

    Thanks!

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