E36 328i Clutch not fully disengaging

[TheFriskhugh]

Just replaced my worn out stock dual mass fw with a conversion kit from Valeo to Single mass. After putting the car back together, I went to start it up and the clutch grinds at the bottom of the pedal travle and won't fully disengage. The car is unable to go into gear while engine is on and once in gear, unable to shift into another. Any help or tips would be nice. Thanks

[woody328is]

I had a nightmare with mine. On installation we had an alignment issue so we pulled the trans back out. Didn't know it but the pilot bearing came out of the crankshaft and wedged in the pressure plate. Exact same symptoms. A more common issue would be that the clutch disc is sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate due to dry splines on the input shaft. Did you clean it well and lube the splines?

[TheFriskhugh]

I had a nightmare with mine. On installation we had an alignment issue so we pulled the trans back out. Didn't know it but the pilot bearing came out of the crankshaft and wedged in the pressure plate. Exact same symptoms. A more common issue would be that the clutch disc is sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate due to dry splines on the input shaft. Did you clean it well and lube the splines?

Yes, the splines were cleaned and lubed. I'm going to end up pulling the Trans again this coming weekend and hopefully figure it out. Also ordered a clutch pivot pin just in case. Hopefully that's the issue with it not disengaging all the way. But not looking forward to taking the car apart again.

[MINIz guy]

Ignore me. Been a long day.

[TheFriskhugh]

Update: Pulled the trans again, replaced the pivot pin and put it back together. Found out the grinding was from the clutch fork hitting the pressure plate while it spins. No more grinding and clutch fully depresses. Another note, the transmission is quite difficult to get into gear and shift into another. After driving 30 miles home, it has already gotten easier to shift into all gears but 1st, 2nd and reverse? I'm going to give it another 100 miles of driving before I get worried. Any of tips on this would nice too. Thanks.

[woody328is]

Unfortunately you may still have air in the system. It may need to be bled some more. If you do don't pump the pedal. Simply open the bleeder screw then have a helper push the pedal down slowly to the floor then close the bleeder screw. Repeat several times and note if any air bubbles come out. When you pump the pedal whether it's clutch or brake hydraulics you can aerate the fluid to the point that you have a soft pedal. You can also gravity bleed the system by turning a bottle of fluid upside down in the reservoir and then open the bleeder and walk away. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle. It may drip for hours but just let it go till it's low but not empty. Tighten bleeder and try it out.

[TheFriskhugh]

Unfortunately you may still have air in the system. It may need to be bled some more. If you do don't pump the pedal. Simply open the bleeder screw then have a helper push the pedal down slowly to the floor then close the bleeder screw. Repeat several times and note if any air bubbles come out. When you pump the pedal whether it's clutch or brake hydraulics you can aerate the fluid to the point that you have a soft pedal. You can also gravity bleed the system by turning a bottle of fluid upside down in the reservoir and then open the bleeder and walk away. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle. It may drip for hours but just let it go till it's low but not empty. Tighten bleeder and try it out.

I don't think that would be possible saying that air wasn't introduced to the system? I could be wrong

[TheFriskhugh]

Unfortunately you may still have air in the system. It may need to be bled some more. If you do don't pump the pedal. Simply open the bleeder screw then have a helper push the pedal down slowly to the floor then close the bleeder screw. Repeat several times and note if any air bubbles come out. When you pump the pedal whether it's clutch or brake hydraulics you can aerate the fluid to the point that you have a soft pedal. You can also gravity bleed the system by turning a bottle of fluid upside down in the reservoir and then open the bleeder and walk away. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle. It may drip for hours but just let it go till it's low but not empty. Tighten bleeder and try it out.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think that would possible saying air wasn't introduced to the system?

[Manolito]

Two thoughts - These clutches are tricky to bleed because of the location of the bleed port. There is a clever video on uTube on one way to do it by pumping in fluid from the bottom. However, if you never opened the fluid system, it is unlikely that air was introduced.

Did you change transmission fluid when you replaced the clutch? My 5 speed takes synthetic Dextron ATF. The original specified fluid is no longer available. One otherwise reliable vendor (that I will not name on the chance they have corrected this error) lists synthetic GL4 70W-80 for all e36 manual transmissions. That will not work well in a transmission that has a label asking for BMW BEST NR 81 22 9 407 558 (old Dextron II).

[TheFriskhugh]

Two thoughts - These clutches are tricky to bleed because of the location of the bleed port. There is a clever video on uTube on one way to do it by pumping in fluid from the bottom. However, if you never opened the fluid system, it is unlikely that air was introduced.

Did you change transmission fluid when you replaced the clutch? My 5 speed takes synthetic Dextron ATF. The original specified fluid is no longer available. One otherwise reliable vendor (that I will not name on the chance they have corrected this error) lists synthetic GL4 70W-80 for all e36 manual transmissions. That will not work well in a transmission that has a label asking for BMW BEST NR 81 22 9 407 558 (old Dextron II).

Yes the transmission fluid was replaced with the recommended ATF. And the fluid system was never opened. Unless air was already in the system(unlikely). Also as an update, currently there's about 110 miles on the clutch and only 1st, and reverse are hard to get into. Occasionally grind when downshifting into 4th or 2nd.

[blksab65]

Sorry to bump such a old thread, but did your head to shift into gears go away? I'm having the exact same issues with my VALEO 328i kit. Very hard to get into 1st gear or Reverse gear at a full stop...

Thanks.

[TheFriskhugh]

Sorry to bump such a old thread, but did your head to shift into gears go away? I'm having the exact same issues with my VALEO 328i kit. Very hard to get into 1st gear or Reverse gear at a full stop...

Thanks.

Sorry its been so long but from I remember, only lasted a couple hundred miles altogether before everything went back to normal. I believe my buddies mechanic father said something about the tolerances being so tight on BMWs that introducing a SMFW might be out of spec? Everything was good after driving it for a bit, I do recall traffic sucked for like 500 miles and I tried to avoid that. My opinion is to give it time