I say a fresh thread, it could be referenced in this in other threads, maybe even a sticky.
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Thanks. I did find a similar aluminum heat shield from a bunch of Amazon Vendors that covers two of the hoses. "Thermo-tec 17125" The 125 is the inside diameter which is 1 1/4", my new hose covering OD was about 1.1".
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Promised myself id get around to finally finishing this. Read up and I’m almost sure my bad front temps were caused by incorrectly mounting my expansion valve bulb. I pulled this off years ago and forgot how it was mounted but after research I found it’s supposed to be mounted on top. Hopefully that solves it.
I got a new drier and the AC “voltage regulator” that I’ll be mounting and testing for leaks tomorrow. For those of you who managed to take your system apart, what did you use to insulate the bulb/pipes when put back together? I may have to reread the thread to remind myself.
I used "Tacky tape": https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...9010/3892794-P
Does a resurrection of an A/C thread mean Spring is near as I look out my window and see snow? God, I hope so.
I see your bulb is zip tied to the return line, outside of the evap box. Is that where it's supposed to be? Isn't it supposed to be used to measure the temperature of the air coming out of the evaporator?
To be honest I’m not 100% sure. The first picture was previously and the second one is where I moved it to. The first was was wrong since half of the bulb was just hanging off.
I’ve since moved it on the straight section on the line inside the evaporator and insulated it. Is your bulb somewhere different? I recall someone saying it should be on the straight section of the line. Can anyone confirm the placement of the bulb? I didn’t take pictures before pulling mine out so I’m not quite sure.
In Other news, it was 60 out and my car took some of the refrigerant but not enough to kick the compressor on. I’m guessing it’s either too cold or something else might be wrong.
I believe when I did mine with the single AC the bulb (more of a coil on mine) was attached to the return line too. There was a separate temp sensor for the air temp that was stuck through a hole in the evaporator box into the fins.
I followed this thread which has great photos (although also a single AC system): http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-HVAC-Overhaul. The third image down shows the temp sensor from the outside of the box.
This photo is from that thread and shows the bulb/coil on the return line on the right side (covered by the tacky tape): http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...=1523387974661
Thanks so much. That was my biggest concern. That’s what I get for not taking pictures haha.
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I replaced my drier and orings and it now goes to 30. Tested and it held vacuum overnight. Bulb seems to be attached right. Glad to know it’s correct be aue I just put everything back and want to avoid pulling it back out. Since it’s not exactly “hot” yet, I’ll be adding by weight.
R152 = 66.05
R12 = 120.91
So I’ll need 54.6% of total charge. My car takes 3.65 lbs (58.4 oz) so I need about 32 oz. once I get this thing to take refrigerant I’ll be done .
Car still won’t take refrigerant :/. Maybe it’s my destiny to not have working AC in the car haha. I’m guessing the AC regulator I got isn’t functioning. The car won’t pull in the refrigerant I’m adding and low side pressure was up to 120. Guess I Got excited too quick.
Which ports are you attaching the manifold gauges/lines to? It's been a while but i seem to remember having problems when I tried to use the port on the drier. I ended up having to use the one closer to the condenser (I think).
Quick update. I’m Making a little progress and Getting decent readings now. Not getting any cold air( 90 degrees from inside) though.
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Feels like im getting close. I’m trying to weigh my options. The back is blowing hot too so I know it’s not anything I did to the front that’s messing it up. Since they’re both two completely different systems (both has it’s own expansion valve, evaporator etc)if one went bad the opposite would still be working. I’m assuming it must be something up front.
Last edited by hakeem43020; 04-14-2018 at 03:17 PM.
Update:
Figured it out. It was the low pressure switch preventing the compressor from coming on. Fixed the connection and it fired right up. I now get 40 in the rear but I now have the classic “cold rear and warm front” which is from the regulator on the front being stuck as pointed out by jeffcfp1. The car also takes forever to take in one can of refrigerant which I’m assuming is because of the same valve. .
I’m just excited I have no leaks. I’ll evacuate and clean the front valve tomorrow hopefully to get all working.
Fixed. Now it just needs to be adjusted and maybe vent some extra refrigerant out because I put 3 cans so I overcharged a bit. Refrigerant wasn’t getting sucked it because the r134 adapter was clogged. I replaced that and it’s good now and It’s 66 today and I get 50 from both vents so it’s not great but the system is working, held same temps for a week which means it’s not leaking.
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Great to have it somewhat functional after dailying ny car for 5 years.
Glad you made some progress. I don't recall if you are running a parallel flow condenser as that might help get you down in the 40's. My system held nicely over the winter and I'm getting same 40 degrees out of front that I was getting in the fall.
Major props to you Hakeem!
You are one persistent fellow, and to still have the fortitude to soldier on after more than a year, AND still take the time to share with us your experiences in order to help us with our own problems, if I were near you I'd buy you a steak ...and beer!
I haven't been on here in many months, I come back and Hakeem is still coming back with data and info.
Thank you brother!
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