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Thread: Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

  1. #126
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    Wow, that's a good one. I literally wrecked my M3 the SAME exact way! Less damage on the front but the rear end is identical and the front passenger fender too. I just did exactly what you're doing, swap and repeat. Salvage what you can, keep on going. Nice chassis, looks clean. E36 will stay cheap for awhile. Nobody wants them and they make cheap racecarrrrrs. I think there's a saying Race, Reck, Repeat? Haha.

  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    Wow, that's a good one. I literally wrecked my M3 the SAME exact way! Less damage on the front but the rear end is identical and the front passenger fender too. I just did exactly what you're doing, swap and repeat. Salvage what you can, keep on going. Nice chassis, looks clean. E36 will stay cheap for awhile. Nobody wants them and they make cheap racecarrrrrs. I think there's a saying Race, Reck, Repeat? Haha.
    Yeah man! I just checked out your thread too, you went waayy deeper with the whole rotisserie and engine bay painting, hats off to you sir. Did you wreck the car in the thread, or before that?


    Quote Originally Posted by chippyb13 View Post
    Great thread! I’m new to the forums but have been building a car to do similar events with. I’m fairly local too! Was wondering if you had some insight on manifold choices as I’m using an efr turbo myself.
    As far as I knew, the steed was the only one that fit the efr for bottom mount but just recently I though I read someone was trying it with a SPA? I strongly suggest a bottom mount for any type of racing so when you crash the car the turbo and manifold is protected. This was my number one concern when deciding between top and bottom mount and unfortunately I got to prove myself right, lol.
    Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 07-11-2018 at 09:57 AM.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  3. #128
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    I wrecked mine mid thread just like your car. In October is when I hit a guardrail. Really sucked but in the end, I got an easier to pass emmisions car and it's 100% right from bumper to bumper.

  4. #129
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    Finally back into it! Interior is gutted and i cleaned up all the cage attachment points to make the job easier for the cage builder.

    I was able to cut out the entire cage from the wrecked car and bought it along to the cage builder so they can hopefully save some time using it as a template and save me money in the long run

    While the car is gone i am going to tear down a spare S52 and drop the block at the machine shop to see I need to order 86.5 or 87. Pistons.

    I picked up a ram cummins as my daily so i am trying to sell my 150k mile 535xi and have no interest at $4500!! I heard the headlights are worth like $500 each, and a healthy n54 maybe 1800....might have to a part out a good perfectly running car to get some money out of it, lol?!







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    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  5. #130
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    Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

    CAR BACK FROM CAGE SHOP!

    There is so much to do now, I dont know where to start, lol.






    I have a motor torn down and ready to send to machine shop. I was initially going to have the shop assemble the bottom end but I dont see any reason I cant do it, right? I just need to buy or borrow a ring filing machine thingy. So someone correct me if I am wrong, but is this a good recipe for a modest build?

    1. send block to machine shop so they can see if boring to 86.5mm will be sufficient or go all the way for 87mm
    2. buy JE 9:1 pistons and eagle rods
    3. machine shop bores after they get the pistons
    4. crank journals look good (to my untrained eye) so I can just buy Glyco standard size crank bearings for $100 (white or yellow??)
    5. buy new crank main bolts
    6. buy standard size rod bearings for $60
    7. Install crank bearings, crank, bearings and caps
    8. File rings to ?????
    9. Install wrist pins (the machine shop said this clearance needs to be check and possibly adjusted, is this true?)
    10. Install pistons with ring compressor
    11. install and torque rod bolts (possibly check with plasti-gauge at this time?)
    12. New oil pump chain and crank sprocket and tack weld nut (I heard this is good to help oil pump prevent failures)
    Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 02-28-2019 at 04:25 PM.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerbumm193 View Post

    I have a motor torn down and ready to send to machine shop. I was initially going to have the shop assemble the bottom end but I dont see any reason I cant do it, right? I just need to buy or borrow a ring filing machine thingy. So someone correct me if I am wrong, but is this a good recipe for a modest build?

    1. send block to machine shop so they can see if boring to 86.5mm will be sufficient or go all the way for 87mm
    2. buy JE 9:1 pistons and eagle rods
    3. machine shop bores after they get the pistons
    4. crank journals look good (to my untrained eye) so I can just buy Glyco standard size crank bearings for $100 (white or yellow??) Have machine shop check the crank, maybe polish journals if not too expensive.
    5. buy new crank main and rod bolts
    6. buy standard size rod bearings for $60
    7. Install crank bearings, crank, bearings and caps and confirm bearing clearance with plastigauge using old bolts
    8. File rings to ????? Pistons should come with specs for ring gap
    9. Install wrist pins (the machine shop said this clearance needs to be check and possibly adjusted, is this true?) I've never done it or had it suggested to me to have it done. I've built probably 10 engines over the years. Never had an issue.
    10. Install pistons with ring compressor Buy the right size ARP or Wiseco piston ring compressor sleeve. It is SOOOO much easier to work with than the regular ring compressors.
    11. install and torque rod bolts (possibly check with plasti-gauge at this time?) and confirm bearing clearance with plastigauge using old bolts
    12. New oil pump chain and crank sprocket and tack weld nut (I heard this is good to help oil pump prevent failures) I did safety wired oil pump nut. Less likelihood of altering the metallurgy of the oil pump shaft with the heat from welding.
    My suggestions in red!

  7. #132
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    Someone on here said as long as your main bearings still had the tin coating you can reuse them. How do these look?











    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  8. #133
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    New bearings are sooo cheap. Why would you bother? Especially since it'll be boosted. You should keep all the protection you can muster/afford.
    Last edited by jakermac; 03-05-2019 at 06:43 PM.

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    My suggestions in red!
    jakermac, thanks! I was only looking at the tapatalk app and couldnt understand what you meant by answer in red because the text was all in the same color and I didnt look closely enough. Thanks, I will add checking the crank to the list of stuff the machine shop needs to do.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  10. #135
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    run em


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S472sxe, MS3pro Ultimate, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, TH400 trans, Protorque converter, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  11. #136
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    Id replace them.


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    1989 535i - sold
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    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  12. #137
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    I'd replace the bearings - you're through the first coating in some areas so they've already seen significant scuffing and will spin that much easier since things get harder as you go down in a bearing.

    Plus they're really REALLY cheap compared to all the other stuff and labor you put into building an engine.

  13. #138
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    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S472sxe, MS3pro Ultimate, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, TH400 trans, Protorque converter, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  14. #139
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    Looking good man! Keep up the progress. I'm finishing mine up this spring. I'm working on cosmetics now, seems so strange. I'm not sure what this world is...

  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    Looking good man! Keep up the progress. I'm finishing mine up this spring. I'm working on cosmetics now, seems so strange. I'm not sure what this world is...
    Thanks! Im jealous that you I are doing cosmetics, such a far way off, lol!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  16. #141
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    Do i need to upgrade from a walbro 255 if i am shooting for 550-600rwp? I was using the 255 when i was at 500 and it seemed fine.









    Dropped the old rear subframe, welded in the reinforcements, and installed my good already rebuilt subframe/trailing arms from crashed car. The most satisfying part is just tossing the entire old rear end into the scrap dumpster




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


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