Wow, that's a good one. I literally wrecked my M3 the SAME exact way! Less damage on the front but the rear end is identical and the front passenger fender too. I just did exactly what you're doing, swap and repeat. Salvage what you can, keep on going. Nice chassis, looks clean. E36 will stay cheap for awhile. Nobody wants them and they make cheap racecarrrrrs. I think there's a saying Race, Reck, Repeat? Haha.
Yeah man! I just checked out your thread too, you went waayy deeper with the whole rotisserie and engine bay painting, hats off to you sir. Did you wreck the car in the thread, or before that?
As far as I knew, the steed was the only one that fit the efr for bottom mount but just recently I though I read someone was trying it with a SPA? I strongly suggest a bottom mount for any type of racing so when you crash the car the turbo and manifold is protected. This was my number one concern when deciding between top and bottom mount and unfortunately I got to prove myself right, lol.
Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 07-11-2018 at 09:57 AM.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
I wrecked mine mid thread just like your car. In October is when I hit a guardrail. Really sucked but in the end, I got an easier to pass emmisions car and it's 100% right from bumper to bumper.
Finally back into it! Interior is gutted and i cleaned up all the cage attachment points to make the job easier for the cage builder.
I was able to cut out the entire cage from the wrecked car and bought it along to the cage builder so they can hopefully save some time using it as a template and save me money in the long run
While the car is gone i am going to tear down a spare S52 and drop the block at the machine shop to see I need to order 86.5 or 87. Pistons.
I picked up a ram cummins as my daily so i am trying to sell my 150k mile 535xi and have no interest at $4500!! I heard the headlights are worth like $500 each, and a healthy n54 maybe 1800....might have to a part out a good perfectly running car to get some money out of it, lol?!
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96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
CAR BACK FROM CAGE SHOP!
There is so much to do now, I dont know where to start, lol.
I have a motor torn down and ready to send to machine shop. I was initially going to have the shop assemble the bottom end but I dont see any reason I cant do it, right? I just need to buy or borrow a ring filing machine thingy. So someone correct me if I am wrong, but is this a good recipe for a modest build?
1. send block to machine shop so they can see if boring to 86.5mm will be sufficient or go all the way for 87mm
2. buy JE 9:1 pistons and eagle rods
3. machine shop bores after they get the pistons
4. crank journals look good (to my untrained eye) so I can just buy Glyco standard size crank bearings for $100 (white or yellow??)
5. buy new crank main bolts
6. buy standard size rod bearings for $60
7. Install crank bearings, crank, bearings and caps
8. File rings to ?????
9. Install wrist pins (the machine shop said this clearance needs to be check and possibly adjusted, is this true?)
10. Install pistons with ring compressor
11. install and torque rod bolts (possibly check with plasti-gauge at this time?)
12. New oil pump chain and crank sprocket and tack weld nut (I heard this is good to help oil pump prevent failures)
Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 02-28-2019 at 04:25 PM.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
Someone on here said as long as your main bearings still had the tin coating you can reuse them. How do these look?
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
jakermac, thanks! I was only looking at the tapatalk app and couldnt understand what you meant by answer in red because the text was all in the same color and I didnt look closely enough. Thanks, I will add checking the crank to the list of stuff the machine shop needs to do.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
I’d replace them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I'd replace the bearings - you're through the first coating in some areas so they've already seen significant scuffing and will spin that much easier since things get harder as you go down in a bearing.
Plus they're really REALLY cheap compared to all the other stuff and labor you put into building an engine.
Looking good man! Keep up the progress. I'm finishing mine up this spring. I'm working on cosmetics now, seems so strange. I'm not sure what this world is...
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
Do i need to upgrade from a walbro 255 if i am shooting for 550-600rwp? I was using the 255 when i was at 500 and it seemed fine.
Dropped the old rear subframe, welded in the reinforcements, and installed my good already rebuilt subframe/trailing arms from crashed car. The most satisfying part is just tossing the entire old rear end into the scrap dumpster
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
255 will do about 550 hp running beefy wiring.... but really that's about it and you shouldn't trust it for much past 500.
And calculations like that are ok, but you should always add in some loss of the fuel system (lines, filters, elbows/connections, etc) for pressure drop.
Yeah realistically on a bypass system you need ~30% overhead. It’s all basic math to get you in the ballpark.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
If you actually test a pump in a car they never flow anywhere near what they are supposed to. The voltage loss to the pump and pushing through lines and filters takes a pretty big cut on their real world flow.
No voltage loss off direct wires to battery.
You should make an effort to tie the cage into the rear subframe mounting points, especially the front two points. the reenforcement plated you welded in do very little for curing a very weak structural mounting point.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Uggg, I know....maybe next time, Ill probably crash it before it tears anyway. But seriously I probably should.
Chikinhed, it was you that was having the boost creep problems with the steed right? Did i remember you switched from a turbosmart 44mm external gate to a tial 45? Something about the tials just worked better than the turbosmart?
Ok, so an aermotive 340 would be good for 600hp? same fit and form as the walbro so I can just drop it in? I was running a relay directly from the battery like some have mentioned, seemed to work well.
96 328i ITR Racecar
95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
2002 325XiT - daily
Mad stuff
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