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Thread: Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by vaderTT76 View Post
    Just saw your car in the Hoonigans drivers wanted special at Mt. Washington.

    @13:16

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ftRUY1M-yw


    Hey thanks for pointing that out! Too bad i did such a lame launch on that one, lol.

    Speaking of launches i just got back from another local PA hillclimb and i am struggling on the launches. Most of the problem is my stock 200k mile diff. I want to throw in some fresh clutches at least but dont really feel like spending any more money on this pit this year.

    I have a used thayer three clutch kit laying around that i used for a year or so before upgrading to a four clutch kit. The only problem is that the car understeered badly with that kit because the preload was too high. I need to measure the dog ear plates again, but I believe they were all 2.0 mm. So maybe i can just buy one 1.65mm plate to lower the preload.


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    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  2. #102
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    I saw it and since I have been following this build, I had to post it!

    Good stuff regardless.

  3. #103
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    Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

    When you guys snap axle stubs in the medium case diffs, can the broken stub be extracted from the diff while its in the car or does the whole diff need to come apart to get it out? Also, has anybody ever used Technica's launch control? I am going to try it out this weekend at the Duryea Hillclimb. If you are in southeast Pa come check out the hillclimb!

    Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 08-16-2017 at 01:08 PM.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerbumm193 View Post
    When you guys snap axle stubs in the medium case diffs, can the broken stub be extracted from the diff while its in the car or does the whole diff need to come apart to get it out? Also, has anybody ever used Technica's launch control? I am going to try it out this weekend at the Duryea Hillclimb. If you are in southeast Pa come check out the hillclimb!
    Yea I clean snapped a custom hardened chrome stub and pulled it out with a magnet.
    I've been told some need other methods of extraction depending on destruction of the stub.
    Can be done.
    1997 Cosmos E36 M3/4/5 Boost Logic GT40/94r .85 Technique Tuning
    Stock motor

    1998 Estoril E36 M3/4/c4 Steed Speed Gt40/94r 1.06 Technique Tuning
    Built motor, Best ET ( 9.80 @ 140.59mph SB100+meth/25psi ) 09/01/17

    build thread:
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2269817-Habbit-continued-Turbo-build-V



  5. #105
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    Well the Duryea Hillclimb is in the books. Car ran awesome and I got 5th place out of 110 cars! I got the second fastest time across the finish line at 148MPH. The only person who beat my top speed was Kerry Hitt in a 800hp CTSV GT1 trans am car. Its hard to describe the feeling of going nearly 150 MPH on bumpy windy public road...and its perfectly legal! The other E36 that got 4th is a LS swapped car with a little less HP than me but a better driver.













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    Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 08-29-2017 at 12:47 PM.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  6. #106
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    Congrats! That's awesome

  7. #107
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    Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

    Thanks!

    Here is one of the only videos i have found of my car. Most of the instagram love was going to my buddies ls e36, hopefully some more footage of my car will pop up eventually.
    https://youtu.be/wg5rE0cC5zc


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  8. #108
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    Awesome. Congrats!
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  9. #109
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    Did you notice a difference when you put the rear wing on?
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, AMS-500 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, CES 750iL diff conversion, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  10. #110
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    Hillclimb Racecar turbo E36 M3 Build

    Well after 9 years of hillclimbing I finally crashed. I committed a rookie mistake by going too fast on a track I wasnt familiar with and caught air on a crest, landed in the grass and slide into a jersey barrier. I crashed on the most visible part of the track in front of all my friends and family. I could hear our son crying as I got out of the wrecked car from 500 yards away, it was no fun. I always knew I would crash this car, but I was hoping for at least 1-2 complete seasons!

    I guess this thread will have a version 2.0 as I build another shell and swap over the good parts. I haven't spent much time carefully looking at the damage, but Im hoping the whole drive train is still good. I hit kind of like Earnhart did, sliding sideways while hitting the wall perpendicularly which sheared off the whole front clip, then spinning and smashing the rear also. The passenger compartment and cage appears nearly untouched with both doors working perfectly. The only visible damage to the motor is the tensioner bosses on the oil filter housing are broken. The motor mounts and trans mounts broke, except for my 15lb steel turbo mount, lol. The turbo and manifold appear ok at first glance. When I was deciding to go top mount or bottom mount one of my main concerns was how protected the turbo would be...well Im glad I had that concern now!

    I need you guys to convince me that my 220k mile stockish 1995 M3 is not worth keeping as a street car and that it will never be worth more than $5K so I should start hacking it up to turn into a racecar.

    To top off the misery I went from owning 2 racecars to 0 in one week. A few days before crashing, I sold my road racing car and it shipped out yesterday The important thing is I was fine in the wreck and I will rebuild, but gosh darnit I just dont feel like it right now so soon after that last build. I was really looking forward to cruising around on the street this fall...oh well.











    Last edited by bimmerbumm193; 09-08-2017 at 10:57 AM.
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  11. #111
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    Def is online now Lead Disagreement Eng PE
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    Ouch... that sucks man, but glad you're ok.

    If you shut it off soon after impact, I'd say the engine is likely ok if the block doesn't have any cracks. Inspect the trans for stress cracks around the mounts as well.

    You're right on with the '95 M3 with really high miles never being worth anything. E36 prices really haven't gone up much above the $10k mark unless it is a REALLY nice one from what I've seen, so a higher mileage one - nah, not going to be worth anything, ever. It's probably worth more if you parted it out and swapped racecar stuff over to it, so if you're willing to put in the work, it won't really be a financial "hit" of removing value from it, you'll actually get more $$$ freed up from the part-out and still have the chassis to turn into a new racecar.


    I wouldn't let the wreck get you down, it happens when pushing it. That's one of the reasons I decided a long time ago to just keep doing DEs. Not that the thought of a wreck "scares" me or anything, I just knew racing in any form makes it that much more likely, and I didn't personally feel the urge to step down that path since there are some negatives vs. a more casual "arrive at the track in a street car, drive home" type deal. So if you do the racing thing, you've just got to accept it's much more likely you're going to have a smash sooner or later.

  12. #112
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    Damn, dude.
    that sucks.
    but you're right. The important part is that you're ok.

    and I agree, the m3 should be v2.0
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    instant grams: doktor_b

  13. #113
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    Oh man! Hate to see that. Glad to hear you got out and walked away.

    Yea, turn the 95 into the new hill climb car for sure. Good luck on the new build.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  14. #114
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    Nah, it'll buff out.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, AMS-500 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, CES 750iL diff conversion, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  15. #115
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    Thanks for the encouragement about the 95 M3 as the new donor, it will get torn apart soon! What is involved in running OBD2 engine/harness/tune in a 95 car? Does the harness just plug in to the car and its ready to go?

    Since I have to rebuild almost everything I was thinking about my stock S52 bottom end. The power worked great for the hills but the car was a complete dog exiting slow super tight and steep second gear turns before I got into boost. I think this was due to the low compression setup with the spacer. I was getting full boost by 3500 but waiting for that to kick in feels like an eternity (actually only fractions of seconds but my competition with LS1s are kicking my ass in the corners). I think my options are either:

    a. keep everything the same and just learn to left foot brake so I can get on the gas earlier and build boost
    b. change from 3.23 to a 3.38 or 3.46 ratio. The power band is great now with the 3.23 so Im not sure how the turbo will like a 3.38 or 3.46?
    c. build a higher compression motor - I dont want to run E85 so is this even an option?
    d. go full standalone so I can run anit-lag (not really an option, too expensive)
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  16. #116
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    Oooh man Shenandoah's crest bites again. Gl with the rebuild, the drivetrain should be ok.

    From past experience, an oxy torch will be a big help getting the drivetrain out from the smushed chassis.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerbumm193 View Post
    Thanks for the encouragement about the 95 M3 as the new donor, it will get torn apart soon! What is involved in running OBD2 engine/harness/tune in a 95 car? Does the harness just plug in to the car and its ready to go?

    Since I have to rebuild almost everything I was thinking about my stock S52 bottom end. The power worked great for the hills but the car was a complete dog exiting slow super tight and steep second gear turns before I got into boost. I think this was due to the low compression setup with the spacer. I was getting full boost by 3500 but waiting for that to kick in feels like an eternity (actually only fractions of seconds but my competition with LS1s are kicking my ass in the corners). I think my options are either:

    a. keep everything the same and just learn to left foot brake so I can get on the gas earlier and build boost
    b. change from 3.23 to a 3.38 or 3.46 ratio. The power band is great now with the 3.23 so Im not sure how the turbo will like a 3.38 or 3.46?
    c. build a higher compression motor - I dont want to run E85 so is this even an option?
    d. go full standalone so I can run anit-lag (not really an option, too expensive)
    Here is a diagram to adapt obd2 engine harness to obd1 chassis harness.
    http://22rpd.com/img/obd2.pdf



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    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2001 Lightning - current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Fx725 twin ceramic, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, Custom Ms41 id1700 E85 tune..... BUILD THREAD

  18. #118
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    Thank you for the diagram.

    Is it possible to slightly bend the rods and it still run ok? Im just wondering because the few runs before I crashed it the engine sounded a little different. It is hard to describe but it sounded "looser" and had more of an intakey "waaahhhhh" sound at WOT. It seemed to run fine though. It also had some lifter tick noise that it didnt have before, although I didnt change the oil since I built it.

    If you want to put rods and pistons in is the only option boring the block or can you just get stock bore pistons if your bores are ok? I saw 86.5mm Wiseco pistons, but isnt the stock bore 86.4mm? It seems that it would be the difference in spending the price to bore the block plus everything associated with stripping it, cleaning it and reassemble vs just possibly the $800 for the piston and $600 for the rods (plus new head gasket, decking head, new seals, ETC). So $2500 vs $4500?
    96 328i ITR Racecar
    95 M3 blk/blk - hillclimb project - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1798796 - Retired to street duty after two awesome seasons!
    2002 325XiT - daily


  19. #119
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    Back when I was supercharged I had a bent rod and didn't know it until the engine came apart to get built
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, AMS-500 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, CES 750iL diff conversion, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  20. #120
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    I would bore it. After a casted part heat cycles it changes shape. The bores change shape. Take the block and get a bore/hone and the cylinders will be perfectly round and square.

    It's a small thing that makes a big difference and while it's apart it will cost next to nothing to get a bore and hone done. 250$ maybe.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 Tiag/Dove M3 - sold
    1998 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2001 Lightning - current

    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Fx725 twin ceramic, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, 14mm diff bolt conversion, Poly engine mounts, UUC trans W/ enforcers, Custom Ms41 id1700 E85 tune..... BUILD THREAD

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