It's too bad some people are having clearance issues. Mine fits great with stock wheels and tire size, with H&R Sport springs and 10mm spring pads. It doesn't sit any lower than my stock springs did though.
I've got at least an inch of clearance, with no signs of rubbing.
1998 Titanium/Dove M3/4/5
2020 Toyota 4Runner
one thing you should consider is you might need to wrap your exhaust (Heat wrap). After some driving park the car and check both of your tires (assuming your alignment and everything else is correct) . if your left is hotter than your right then do it.
I'm selling a used Stromung installed on a 98 m3 for couple thousand miles.
Someone hit my car last month and it seems the insurance will total it.
I swapt the exhaust back to original before dropping the car at the shop; so now I have a catback but no E36..
Let me know if interested
I have a stormung and I love it. Borla is also very verymice. Not sure what I would pick if I had a choice nowadays. Dinan is too quite imo, and UUC exhausts are HOLY loud, cops will have time to stance and eat a doughnut before you arrive.
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I got mine 350 used, I don't know if it's worth it to get a new one unless you must have one right now or live in a remote area. Bay Area is full of e36 parts
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 08-26-2016 at 03:40 PM. Reason: profanity
Bumping this thread. Has anyone else had issues with the exhaust sounds after "break-in"? I used to love how my exhaust sounded, and it still sounds good when cold. However, once its fully heated up, it has gotten kind of annoying, with much more drone than before. Anyone else experiencing this? Do I maybe have an exhaust leak? Is it even possible to have a leak but only when its hot?
TIA
1998 BMW M3: Estoril Blue, Bilstein Sport shocks, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Z3 M shift lever, illuminated ZHP shift knob, 3-Spoke Steering Wheel, Dinan Intake & Stage 2 software, Eisenmann Race, CD43
Yeah I have similar spacing/alignment issues with my Borla. It occasionally vibrates against the bumper/trim at idle because the pipes sit too far to the driver's side of the gap, especially when my AC is on for whatever reason. I'm about to drop the whole thing for some drive shaft work and O2 sensor replacement, and I'm planning on using some washers as spacers on the exhaust hangers when I put it back on to make sure the rear section is centered.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Exhaust tip misalignment can be corrected by loosening all the midpipe connections and straightening things out before evenly tightening the connections back up. Any tiny misalignment at the front is magnified by the time you get to the muffler. It may be necessary to reposition/reset/replace the compression ring gasket at the midpipe to muffler joint. Also, usually it's necessary to hold the tips centered in the bumper cover by shimming with rags or whatever. When I do this I also use jacks with wood blocks to hold the cats and muffler up in position. The dual exhaust on these things is tricky to get straight. Bottom line though, there's a lot of adjustment available and most misalignment is the result of improper installation... if you tighten all connections without making sure things stay straight as you go the tips will end up crooked. If they are you just start over.
Last edited by NoLastName; 09-03-2018 at 05:05 PM.
The Stromung is known for cracking where the pipes enter into the muffler canister. It's not as dramatic as Dinan that crack on both sides and they have never changed the design to fix it, but it does happen. I would inspect your muffler.
Yep. Mine was actually ok before my big suspension overhaul. Then it was further over to the left after I put it back on without fully disassembling (cause I was lazy). After that, I dropped it again and took it completely apart and reassembled in the proper order and somehow got it even worse. It's hard to get it right solo. I think my main issue is that I need a little more length out of the left pipe, either in the joint with the cats or the joint with the muffler. This would have the effect of pushing the end of the muffler to the right and away from my bumper trim. Next time I have it off I'll get it right, with spacers if necessary.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
I thought the tabs welded between the pipes and muffler were to alleviate this issue? You can just barely see what I'm talking about in the photo here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...8#post29195958
Do the older ones not have this?
As an aside, before I had a place to work on my car, I had my shop try to get my muffler to not make contact with the inner bumper cover and they didn't have much luck. They suggested I bend the hanger arms so it sits further toward the passengers side of the car. I think I'd rather try messing with the midpipe and/or washer trick first.
Another person with fitment issues: https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/e36/2014-02-02
1998 BMW M3: Estoril Blue, Bilstein Sport shocks, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Z3 M shift lever, illuminated ZHP shift knob, 3-Spoke Steering Wheel, Dinan Intake & Stage 2 software, Eisenmann Race, CD43
They still crack, just not as severe as Dinan.
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