Never understood why some manufacturers will mount the connector so close to the compressor pulley. Sucks to have to replace the entire compressor just because of a broken connector.
What lower radiator hose are you running? I can't seem to find one that will work for me.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Thanks for the part number. I'll try it out.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
So I received the new compressor, belt and the Lisle belt install tool (ridiculously awesome tool by the way) this week and got to work on the install Saturday morning. After checking the compressor oil level (more on that in a sec) I installed everything in preparation to pull a vacuum. The Lisle belt tool is very slick and made it easy to install the belt and it also functions as a removal tool if reversed. Connected the cheap Harbor Freight air operated vacuum pump and pulled it down to 25" of vacuum for 45 minutes. Would have liked to pull down closer to 30 but that was the best this pump would do and In my research I read that the required vacuum varies by altitude and the calculator I found said 24" @ 5280 feet was sufficient. Did a 30 minute leak-down test and found no vacuum loss so I charged it up with approx. 750 grams of R134A per the manual. The thermometer in the vent dropped down to about 43 degrees but my infrared gun showed 23 degrees, no idea which one is right but figured id split the difference.... Now to connect the electrical portion properly. The compressor snafu may have been a blessing in disguise as I think I might have had too much oil in the original compressor. The Factory LS3 Camaro compressor had a tag showing 120cc of PAG oil but the AC Delco replacement came prefilled with 40CC and came with instructions regarding proper oil fill when replacing the compressor only. This suggested that the 120CC I filled the original with was a total system capacity and only 40CC was required when just changing the compressor. Also looks like a I may be able to repair the clutch coil wiring on the original compressor (modified but still functional) to make it a good spare.
A/C is a very noticeable draw on the "Giddy up and Go", guess I need a Magnacharger.
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S.F.
Last edited by StolenFox; 07-09-2017 at 09:20 AM.
Well, I just read Unnatrl's update on A/C so I figured I should post where I'm at too. So I have the wiring 95% done and the compressor clutch is being controlled perfectly by the LS1 PCM and idle bumps accordingly. The 12V "A/C request" input to the LS PCM is currently supplied by this super high tech and elegantly installed rocker switch:
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However as stylish an install that it is, I have a module being built by Mr. Thaniel that will allow the factory snowflake on the IHKA to send the A/C request signal. Once again the 04 GTO operating system creates a bit of a headache in that the E-fans were originally controlled by CAN signal to the BCM. As a result even though you add the wires to the harness for the e-fans and they work perfectly for keeping the engine cool, they do not get activated upon an A/C request. The GTO PCM allows you to "change A/C type" using HP Tuners, LS1 Edit or TunerCat and that allows the PCM to control the compressor activation but it wont activate the e-fan. So my work around will be to use a ground referenced relay to send a trigger signal to the high speed fan upon A/C request. Thaniel was kind enough to modify his module to increase its current capacity on the +12VDC A/C request output so it can drive the override relay (thanks Thaniel!) without issue.
So while I wait for the custom CAN module I thought i'd see if I could fix the A/C compressor I broke the coil connector off of. Figured I've got nothing to lose and it would be good to have a spare compressor. An hour with a dremel, soldering iron & JB Weld for plastic fixed up the coil and now ive got a good used spare!
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More to come once I install the CAN module and override relay.
S.F.
Good stuff! Glad to see you got the snowflake button worked out as well.
I received the CAN module from Thaniel along with the Arduino enclosure I purchased so I completed the A/C electrical. It works perfectly, thank you Thaniel!
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The stock 5.0L Mustang mufflers just weren't cutting it. They were too quiet and had a weird tone so they were replaced with Magnaflow knockoffs. Of course that required reworking the tips as I no longer needed the riser pipes that were feeding them and the muffler outlet center-lines were different. This time I used clamps rather than just welding on the tips which made it much easier to adjust them in the valence.
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S.F.
You work quick man. Glad you were able to salvage the old compressor. A/C is one of the best things you can do to these swapped cars.
Saturday I decided to remove the old tint. The prior owner had kids that scratched it all up, it was wavy in the middle of the backlight and it wasn't dark enough so it had to go! Formula 409, black trash bags and a sunny day is all you need:
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S.F.
Pretty easy to do really: Formula 409 has ammonia as it's primary active ingredient. Ammonia and heat break down the bond between the tint adhesive and the glass.
Step one: spray exterior of glass with 409 to make the black (black color is key) trash bag stick to the glass. Pull the bag tight, smooth, then trim to the shape of the window.
Step two: spray inside of that same window with 409. Pull the bag off the exterior of the glas, flip it over (wet side of plastic bag to inside of glass), apply to glass, stretch and smooth with a squeegee.
Step three: Pull vehicle into direct sunlight with all Windows closed and allow to heat soak until the exterior is hot enough that you cannot keep your hand in contact with it.
Step four: Peel tint and trash bag away from glass as a unit, go slowly to ensure adhesive stays on the tint and not the glass.
Step five: repeat for remaining windows.
Step six: enjoy brewed or distilled beverage of your choice.
S.F.
Last edited by StolenFox; 08-15-2017 at 09:56 PM.
Great tip, thanks for that
So after much delay I have finally started addressing the appearance of my E39. Just in time for winter hibernation, color matched M5 style bumpers!
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Tint & Wheels/Tires will have to wait until spring...
S.F.
kick ass project dude just curious what you paid for your mounts and where i can get a set? i just picked up an m5 roller from vegas for $2500 and plan on building an lq4/ls2 for the car. Eventually i will go boost but for the mean time i just want to do the swap and get everything in working order first. Now i've noticed people swapping out the subframe and gearbox for an I6 subframe and rack, is there reason to this? can i make this swap happen without changing the cradle and existing gearbox? any input is greatly appreciated
Last edited by nickhuber1; 11-16-2017 at 12:49 AM.
M5 roller for $2500 is awesome! You can get mounts for both V8 and I6 cars from members here on this board. I bought my I6 mounts from "JesusFreak" (Josh) and can't say enough good things about them. High quality parts that are worth every penny. Not sure what the going rate is on the mounts these days. If the M5 build was mine, I'd switch to the I6 subframe for the Rack & Pinion steering alone but there our other benefits to doing so in my opinion (oil pan). Sway bar gets interesting but can be handled a few different ways.
Good luck with you build! Looking forward to following it here.
S.F.
With swapping the subframes what all is involved in that other than actually taking one out and putting one in? will all of the front suspension and control arms from the m5 fit into the i6 subframe or will i have to source all of that as well. what about the sway-bar issue from the way you worded it i assume that it wont bolt right up? any clarification helps i appreciate the advice. Also to my knowledge if i do install an i6 subframe and rack what are the benefits to the r&p other than there being more room?
You need the entire subframe including suspension, spindles, rack & pinion and the steering shaft. The shaft will mate up to a 540 column without issue. It’s keyed and only goes one way (doesn’t look like it, but it definitely is). The 540 struts will work with the I6 spindles. I used the 540 brakes as well.
So she's still hibernating for the winter and I'm still busy working on the Pro-Touring Camaro for my friend but I did sneak in a little E39 Project. Enter the overhead gauge pod for oil pressure and coolant temp:
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Came out pretty good I think. Not "professional interior guy" good, but certainly serviceable. Sewing leather is hard to do!
S.F.
Still need to install the senders and connect the signal wires but the gauge pod is in and looks pretty good. Getting the windows tinted tomorrow and Apex Arc-8’s in Shadow Chrome are on order.
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S.F.
Digging that gauge cluster!
For tint removal, I bought a $50 steamer and used that. It was pretty easy. Used ammonia for some residual adhesive left behind but the steamer worked great.
Thank you sir! Overall I am pleased with it. No doubt a pro could have finished out the leather better than I but it looks decent and does the job. Just got the windows properly tinted:
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S.F.
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