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Thread: Project 560i: my E39 LSx build

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Minneapolis,MN
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    2,260
    My Cars
    2003 M5, 2014 535i
    Never understood why some manufacturers will mount the connector so close to the compressor pulley. Sucks to have to replace the entire compressor just because of a broken connector.
    What lower radiator hose are you running? I can't seem to find one that will work for me.

    2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
    Build Thread
    The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    247
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    2000 “560i”
    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    Never understood why some manufacturers will mount the connector so close to the compressor pulley. Sucks to have to replace the entire compressor just because of a broken connector.
    What lower radiator hose are you running? I can't seem to find one that will work for me.
    Yep, $200 bucks worth of "suck"... Oh well, lesson learned. I've got the part number for the hose at home in my build records. I'll post it up this evening.

    S.F.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”
    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    What lower radiator hose are you running? I can't seem to find one that will work for me.
    The lower hose is a Gates 21875 with a Gates 26391 bushing on the water pump outlet.

    S.F.

  4. #104
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    Nov 2006
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    2003 M5, 2014 535i
    Thanks for the part number. I'll try it out.

    2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
    Build Thread
    The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”

    We have cold air!

    So I received the new compressor, belt and the Lisle belt install tool (ridiculously awesome tool by the way) this week and got to work on the install Saturday morning. After checking the compressor oil level (more on that in a sec) I installed everything in preparation to pull a vacuum. The Lisle belt tool is very slick and made it easy to install the belt and it also functions as a removal tool if reversed. Connected the cheap Harbor Freight air operated vacuum pump and pulled it down to 25" of vacuum for 45 minutes. Would have liked to pull down closer to 30 but that was the best this pump would do and In my research I read that the required vacuum varies by altitude and the calculator I found said 24" @ 5280 feet was sufficient. Did a 30 minute leak-down test and found no vacuum loss so I charged it up with approx. 750 grams of R134A per the manual. The thermometer in the vent dropped down to about 43 degrees but my infrared gun showed 23 degrees, no idea which one is right but figured id split the difference.... Now to connect the electrical portion properly. The compressor snafu may have been a blessing in disguise as I think I might have had too much oil in the original compressor. The Factory LS3 Camaro compressor had a tag showing 120cc of PAG oil but the AC Delco replacement came prefilled with 40CC and came with instructions regarding proper oil fill when replacing the compressor only. This suggested that the 120CC I filled the original with was a total system capacity and only 40CC was required when just changing the compressor. Also looks like a I may be able to repair the clutch coil wiring on the original compressor (modified but still functional) to make it a good spare.

    A/C is a very noticeable draw on the "Giddy up and Go", guess I need a Magnacharger.

    AC 8.jpg

    AC 9.jpg

    S.F.
    Last edited by StolenFox; 07-09-2017 at 09:20 AM.

  6. #106
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    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”

    a little more A/C stuff...

    Well, I just read Unnatrl's update on A/C so I figured I should post where I'm at too. So I have the wiring 95% done and the compressor clutch is being controlled perfectly by the LS1 PCM and idle bumps accordingly. The 12V "A/C request" input to the LS PCM is currently supplied by this super high tech and elegantly installed rocker switch:

    IMG_1724.jpg

    However as stylish an install that it is, I have a module being built by Mr. Thaniel that will allow the factory snowflake on the IHKA to send the A/C request signal. Once again the 04 GTO operating system creates a bit of a headache in that the E-fans were originally controlled by CAN signal to the BCM. As a result even though you add the wires to the harness for the e-fans and they work perfectly for keeping the engine cool, they do not get activated upon an A/C request. The GTO PCM allows you to "change A/C type" using HP Tuners, LS1 Edit or TunerCat and that allows the PCM to control the compressor activation but it wont activate the e-fan. So my work around will be to use a ground referenced relay to send a trigger signal to the high speed fan upon A/C request. Thaniel was kind enough to modify his module to increase its current capacity on the +12VDC A/C request output so it can drive the override relay (thanks Thaniel!) without issue.

    So while I wait for the custom CAN module I thought i'd see if I could fix the A/C compressor I broke the coil connector off of. Figured I've got nothing to lose and it would be good to have a spare compressor. An hour with a dremel, soldering iron & JB Weld for plastic fixed up the coil and now ive got a good used spare!

    IMG_1722.jpg

    IMG_1723.jpg

    More to come once I install the CAN module and override relay.

    S.F.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    West coast
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Good stuff! Glad to see you got the snowflake button worked out as well.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”

    A/C is done and crappy mufflers are gone!

    I received the CAN module from Thaniel along with the Arduino enclosure I purchased so I completed the A/C electrical. It works perfectly, thank you Thaniel!

    IMG_1746.jpg

    The stock 5.0L Mustang mufflers just weren't cutting it. They were too quiet and had a weird tone so they were replaced with Magnaflow knockoffs. Of course that required reworking the tips as I no longer needed the riser pipes that were feeding them and the muffler outlet center-lines were different. This time I used clamps rather than just welding on the tips which made it much easier to adjust them in the valence.

    IMG_1727.jpg

    IMG_1743.jpg

    IMG_1744.jpg

    IMG_1745.jpg

    S.F.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
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    1,703
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 540i/6
    You work quick man. Glad you were able to salvage the old compressor. A/C is one of the best things you can do to these swapped cars.

    2001 BMW 560i 6.0 LSx/T56 SOLD


    2000 Corvette Hardtop FRC

  10. #110
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    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”
    Quote Originally Posted by nsogiba View Post
    You work quick man. Glad you were able to salvage the old compressor. A/C is one of the best things you can do to these swapped cars.
    Yeah, I am not sure why but I've been pushing real hard to get her finished up. Of course, they never really are "done"...

    S.F.

  11. #111
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    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”

    A minor update:

    Saturday I decided to remove the old tint. The prior owner had kids that scratched it all up, it was wavy in the middle of the backlight and it wasn't dark enough so it had to go! Formula 409, black trash bags and a sunny day is all you need:

    IMG_1750.jpg

    S.F.

  12. #112
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    Oct 2008
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    West coast
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Quote Originally Posted by StolenFox View Post
    Saturday I decided to remove the old tint. The prior owner had kids that scratched it all up, it was wavy in the middle of the backlight and it wasn't dark enough so it had to go! Formula 409, black trash bags and a sunny day is all you need:

    IMG_1750.jpg

    S.F.
    Explain this crazy process! I'm curious.

  13. #113
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    Apr 2011
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    2000 “560i”
    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    Explain this crazy process! I'm curious.
    Pretty easy to do really: Formula 409 has ammonia as it's primary active ingredient. Ammonia and heat break down the bond between the tint adhesive and the glass.

    Step one: spray exterior of glass with 409 to make the black (black color is key) trash bag stick to the glass. Pull the bag tight, smooth, then trim to the shape of the window.

    Step two: spray inside of that same window with 409. Pull the bag off the exterior of the glas, flip it over (wet side of plastic bag to inside of glass), apply to glass, stretch and smooth with a squeegee.

    Step three: Pull vehicle into direct sunlight with all Windows closed and allow to heat soak until the exterior is hot enough that you cannot keep your hand in contact with it.

    Step four: Peel tint and trash bag away from glass as a unit, go slowly to ensure adhesive stays on the tint and not the glass.

    Step five: repeat for remaining windows.

    Step six: enjoy brewed or distilled beverage of your choice.

    S.F.
    Last edited by StolenFox; 08-15-2017 at 09:56 PM.

  14. #114
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    Oct 2008
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    West coast
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    Quote Originally Posted by StolenFox View Post
    Pretty easy to do really: Formula 409 has ammonia as it's primary active ingredient. Ammonia and heat break down the bond between the tint adhesive and the glass.

    Step one: spray exterior of glass with 409 to make the black (black color is key) trash bag stick to the glass. Pull the bag tight, smooth, then trim to the shape of the window.

    Step two: spray inside of that same window with 409. Pull the bag off the exterior of the glas, flip it over (wet side of plastic bag to inside of glass), apply to glass, stretch and smooth with a squeegee.

    Step three: Pull vehicle into direct sunlight with all Windows closed and allow to heat soak until the exterior is hot enough that you cannot keep your hand in contact with it.

    Step four: Peel tint and trash bag away from glass as a unit, go slowly to ensure adhesive stays on the tint and not the glass.

    Step five: repeat for remaining windows.

    Step six: enjoy brewed or distilled beverage of your choice.

    S.F.
    Awesome. My daily has some old crappy tint that needs to go. Will give this a go.

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Melb, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    28
    My Cars
    2000 E39 530i Touring
    Great tip, thanks for that

  16. #116
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    Apr 2011
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    Somewhere, USA
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    2000 “560i”

    A quick update before Winter:

    So after much delay I have finally started addressing the appearance of my E39. Just in time for winter hibernation, color matched M5 style bumpers!

    InkedIMG_1800_LI.jpg

    InkedIMG_1801_LI.jpg

    Tint & Wheels/Tires will have to wait until spring...

    S.F.

  17. #117
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    Nov 2017
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    Akron ohio
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    My Cars
    2000 M5
    kick ass project dude just curious what you paid for your mounts and where i can get a set? i just picked up an m5 roller from vegas for $2500 and plan on building an lq4/ls2 for the car. Eventually i will go boost but for the mean time i just want to do the swap and get everything in working order first. Now i've noticed people swapping out the subframe and gearbox for an I6 subframe and rack, is there reason to this? can i make this swap happen without changing the cradle and existing gearbox? any input is greatly appreciated
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by nickhuber1; 11-16-2017 at 12:49 AM.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickhuber1 View Post
    kick ass project dude just curious what you paid for your mounts and where i can get a set? i just picked up an m5 roller from vegas for $2500 and plan on building an lq4/ls2 for the car. Eventually i will go boost but for the mean time i just want to do the swap and get everything in working order first. Now i've noticed people swapping out the subframe and gearbox for an I6 subframe and rack, is there reason to this? can i make this swap happen without changing the cradle and existing gearbox? any input is greatly appreciated
    M5 roller for $2500 is awesome! You can get mounts for both V8 and I6 cars from members here on this board. I bought my I6 mounts from "JesusFreak" (Josh) and can't say enough good things about them. High quality parts that are worth every penny. Not sure what the going rate is on the mounts these days. If the M5 build was mine, I'd switch to the I6 subframe for the Rack & Pinion steering alone but there our other benefits to doing so in my opinion (oil pan). Sway bar gets interesting but can be handled a few different ways.

    Good luck with you build! Looking forward to following it here.

    S.F.

  19. #119
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    Nov 2017
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    Akron ohio
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    2000 M5
    Quote Originally Posted by StolenFox View Post
    M5 roller for $2500 is awesome! You can get mounts for both V8 and I6 cars from members here on this board. I bought my I6 mounts from "JesusFreak" (Josh) and can't say enough good things about them. High quality parts that are worth every penny. Not sure what the going rate is on the mounts these days. If the M5 build was mine, I'd switch to the I6 subframe for the Rack & Pinion steering alone but there our other benefits to doing so in my opinion (oil pan). Sway bar gets interesting but can be handled a few different ways.

    Good luck with you build! Looking forward to following it here.

    S.F.
    With swapping the subframes what all is involved in that other than actually taking one out and putting one in? will all of the front suspension and control arms from the m5 fit into the i6 subframe or will i have to source all of that as well. what about the sway-bar issue from the way you worded it i assume that it wont bolt right up? any clarification helps i appreciate the advice. Also to my knowledge if i do install an i6 subframe and rack what are the benefits to the r&p other than there being more room?

  20. #120
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    Apr 2011
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    2000 “560i”
    Quote Originally Posted by nickhuber1 View Post
    With swapping the subframes what all is involved in that other than actually taking one out and putting one in? will all of the front suspension and control arms from the m5 fit into the i6 subframe or will i have to source all of that as well. what about the sway-bar issue from the way you worded it i assume that it wont bolt right up? any clarification helps i appreciate the advice. Also to my knowledge if i do install an i6 subframe and rack what are the benefits to the r&p other than there being more room?
    Subframe swap should be fairly easy. Not sure if the M5 control arms are a direct fit... Benefits are more room, quicker steering response and ease of service for the future. Look back through my thread for sway bar details.

    S.F

  21. #121
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    Oct 2008
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    '00 540 6.0/4L80e/S480
    You need the entire subframe including suspension, spindles, rack & pinion and the steering shaft. The shaft will mate up to a 540 column without issue. It’s keyed and only goes one way (doesn’t look like it, but it definitely is). The 540 struts will work with the I6 spindles. I used the 540 brakes as well.

  22. #122
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    Apr 2011
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    2000 “560i”

    Gauges!

    So she's still hibernating for the winter and I'm still busy working on the Pro-Touring Camaro for my friend but I did sneak in a little E39 Project. Enter the overhead gauge pod for oil pressure and coolant temp:

    IMG_1849.jpg

    IMG_1853.jpg

    IMG_1885.jpg

    IMG_1888.jpg

    IMG_1887.jpg

    Came out pretty good I think. Not "professional interior guy" good, but certainly serviceable. Sewing leather is hard to do!

    S.F.

  23. #123
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    Apr 2011
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    2000 “560i”

    Gauges Installed!

    Still need to install the senders and connect the signal wires but the gauge pod is in and looks pretty good. Getting the windows tinted tomorrow and Apex Arc-8’s in Shadow Chrome are on order.

    11E9DDB5-8998-4BA7-8073-F5883C33BF6B.jpg

    511E9FD5-DACF-4C29-BB17-FF41AA0BD58E.jpg

    C524E13F-AC9F-4511-8CA6-9B9E9C1D6858.jpg

    S.F.

  24. #124
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    VA
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    E63AMG/Z31/Tacoma/F31
    Digging that gauge cluster!

    For tint removal, I bought a $50 steamer and used that. It was pretty easy. Used ammonia for some residual adhesive left behind but the steamer worked great.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVAE34 View Post
    Digging that gauge cluster!
    Thank you sir! Overall I am pleased with it. No doubt a pro could have finished out the leather better than I but it looks decent and does the job. Just got the windows properly tinted:

    47D9906B-7DB0-49F2-9E04-250C8BD59DEC.jpg

    S.F.

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