Heidi Diaries Part Trois: Bleeding blue in CO

[AHenry014]

I invested in the a/c recharge tools from Harbor Freight a bunch of years ago. I believe the gauges and vac pump were sub-100 bucks. I used it to recharge my BMW before Bimmerfest one year. Worked fantastically until i discharged it for my engine swap. Used it again to recharge my old 4runner and then again to add some r134a to my Tundra. Worked awesome every time. I found the cheapest refrigerant that features no "Stop leak" is found at Walmart.

edit: Youtube how to use the tool. Its pretty easy.

[Sir Montalbon]

Treefiddy, lol.... that's crazy. Once you get the bumper and front trim off, the removal/install of the condenser and drier is very straightforward. And if you've gone that far, you are only about an hour's worth of work to vacuum down and refill the system with the gauges. You should definitely at least research it a little; you may be surprised. I was nervous my first time, but it went fine (still cold about 5 years later), and I've done some more AC work on other cars since then. I watch a few Youtube videos to refresh my memory, and I'm off!

I invested in the a/c recharge tools from Harbor Freight a bunch of years ago. I believe the gauges and vac pump were sub-100 bucks. I used it to recharge my BMW before Bimmerfest one year. Worked fantastically until i discharged it for my engine swap. Used it again to recharge my old 4runner and then again to add some r134a to my Tundra. Worked awesome every time. I found the cheapest refrigerant that features no "Stop leak" is found at Walmart.

edit: Youtube how to use the tool. Its pretty easy.

Yeah! What Alex said, but if you rent them from AutoZoneWorld they refund you the full price, so it's free ^^^^^

[BleedsBlue]

Well shoot. Now y'all have challenged me! I'll see if Greg has the equipment (I think he does) and say F Firestone if it's truly an hour or less. It'll take me longer than that to throw the condensor/drier/line on, and yes I was laughing at Firestone's estimate for that. I just used 'em for the leak test and initial recharge.

Thank you for the suggestions

[BleedsBlue]

I'll definitely be "investing" in the A/C recharge stuff considering both the Touring and M5 can use it, and I always end up buying cars that need A/C work. Great because I'm already the sweatiest in any given room

Bombing around Denver in some good weather with another member from the West Coast, I nabbed a YUUUUGE staple in the sidewall of the driver rear Michelin PSS. It held air for about a day, but then the staple broke off, so it was off to Discount Tire.

I was lucky the rear axle tires (one of which was the puncture) were the now-ancient 2012-ish date code PSS with almost no tread left. Pretty convenient!

Due to availability and a lingering desire to try them out, I actually de-stickied a bit and put Michelin A/S3 on the back axle (235/45). Everyone from other BMW guys to air cooled P-car guys (who are pretty darn anal) like these for a true daily, so we'll see. The front PSS will be replaced by a like pair in the future at some point. Until then I will enjoy less understeer...

flattire by brent gaudette, on Flickr



I have 9,000 To-Dos on both E34s, but finally got an offer accepted on a house, so I've both been very busy and currently bunking up with the fiance, dog, and cat, all at my mom's

Closing is 8/18.

[UnrulyGrace]

Good times buddy! Glad you let me take both of the cars out for a spin!

[BleedsBlue]

Good times buddy! Glad you let me take both of the cars out for a spin!

Anytime il pilota sperimentale. AKG bump plates are in the mail, btw.

[BleedsBlue]

Project day, felt good to sweat in the garage with some tunes, the pup, and strong coffee + lemonade + brews. It's been almost a month and To-Dos were piling up.

First up was the heater valve, all signs pointing to a stuck driver side valve. It was a super easy job, honestly. Except for the bottom right screw out of the three that retain the valves; I had to epoxy that baby back on. It's just a screw grafted onto plastic, but I guess it doesn't hold much.

heatervalveout by brent gaudette

The unit in the car was a Bosch, too. I can hear at least one valve in the old unit moving, but I'll disassemble it to see if either/both is stuck/fixable.

heatervalveoldnew by brent gaudette

No change in the driver side vent, it's still hot air. I'll revamp the old heater valves and keep them as spares, but pretty annoyed that I must have an electric issue (doubtful, since the passenger side still works); a stuck door (likely, but not fun); or something wrong in the auto climate control dial, I suppose. Any ideas?

At least it's shiny...oh wait, it's under a cover. Ha.

heatervalvenew by brent gaudette

I then found out this auto climate control car doesn't use the cheap blower resistor. It's a sword car, who knew!? RealOEM, that's who...but most of the common sources like E34.net had no info on this. Anyway, I ordered a rebuilt unit from Programa, but was fuming at this point having struck out on both HVAC issues that have been driving me mad. I had a blower resistor I thought would go in this car, but I will use it for the M5 instead. HA. So I went to fix a minor OCD thing.

The car might be a rust bucket I can't afford to paint, but I will fix little issues like this imperfectly fitting climate control panel at the earliest opportunity.

hvacbefore by brent gaudette

Culprit:

hvacbrokenclip by brent gaudette

P/N:

hvacclip by brent gaudette

Mmmmmmmhmmmmmm:

hvacafter by brent gaudette

Next I had to swap the rear wheels between axles, since Discount Tire in their wisdom put the wheels on backwards (the Throwing Stars). Thankfully, A/S3s are not directional. I was feeling feisty so I decided to whip up the mud flaps I've had on hold. A couple peeps here asked me about the idea.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/Rally-Univers.../dp/B00C3AIOTY

I used metal hardware on a previous install of these (on an old Saab boost buggy), but tried these plastic rivets this time: https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Clips-...X468K8V0A6AZY3

Cost: under $27 for four corners. Take that, BMW.

These rivets are nice and sturdy, and have already showed zero deflection or wear after a few uses while I was test fitting and making a template.

rallyarmorgrommet by brent gaudette

The name of the game is measure thrice, drill twice. The Universal flaps are flexible and easy to cut (important for the driver side, due to the muffler), but that also means they are slightly unwieldy while measuring, drilling, cutting, etc. Once you determine how low you want the flap to hang, attach the highest rivet/hardware and then the flap will hang while you align it horizontally. Once you get one side square/level/how you want it, pull it off to copy the hole locations in the other side's flap, measure the bumper, etc.

The rear axle mudflaps will be asymmetrical due to the muffler, but even an old pocket knife was enough for me to cut a large notch out of the inner part of the flap to clearance the muffler.

I ended up using three rivets per side. The rear M Tech bumper had enough "lip" up top for one; the bottom corner of the bumper was perfect for another; and I had to make do with a third through the fender liner. There's just not much to attach to without also fabricating a bracket, but I know from experience these will hold up. She's already a dirty girl...

rallyarmorgrommets by brent gaudette

I set the flaps more inboard than designed; it's not actually effective to mount them as outboard as the design suggests/STI flatbrims tend to. I have about 5.5" of flap hanging below the bumper, and on the ground that 235 section width tire is almost exactly in the center of the flap. I only got the rears done and am not super motivated to do the fronts due to lack of mounting locations. As you can see below, there is also not much tire overhang, but I'll get to it. It was a long day.

The suspension is not fully compressed in this photo, just FYI.

rallyarmortest by brent gaudette

Ms. Bleedsblue was wedding dress shopping today, so no good pictures. Soon.

[BleedsBlue]

I like the look of the flaps for sure. I'll have to get the fronts on before winter, but in the meantime I have 9 million projects and a house to close on...

rallyarmoron by brent gaudette

To be installed/done (in order of urgency):

• Behr condensor
• Behr receiver/dryer
• Used OEM high side line out of compressor
• Recharge (need to buy recharge kit, gauges, etc, first)
• Install V8 coding plug from a second-hand cluster, adjust mileage potentially
• Shogun's auto shift level dremel mod to get the non-T handle functioning
• Oil change
• Coolant flush
• Diagnose mirror control/driver seat motors all non-op after some rain got in an open window
• Install the Bilstein HD + H&R spring + Ground Control camber plate + TMS 75mm stud strut assemblies, re-used from the M5
• Remove the x-brace
• Install rust-free Oxford front doors (after treating door bottoms)

In the mail:

• Rebuilt SWORD
• Used OEM driver wiper arm to replace the reverse hook B.S.
• Soon: rust-free-ish Oxford rear Touring doors

Ze wagon is actually up with Ms Bleedsblue in the mountains this weekend while I look over a sick doggo--her car, '10 Cooper, decided to seize a couple brake calipers at 70k miles. I LOVE WHEN SHE DRIVES THIS CAR. So good.

Lots to fix and many minor annoyances, but overall this thing is still a tank.

I owe @UnrulyGrace massively for connecting me with someone that has clean Oxford Touring rear doors, but that's just the kind of guy Jason is

[Shock(/\)ave]

The car might be a rust bucket I can't afford to paint, but I will fix little issues like this imperfectly fitting climate control panel at the earliest opportunity.

Does that ever sound familiar! The little things always add up, though, and if they're being taken care of you'll feel the car slowly becoming what you want it to be. It was the same with our house: living with the big stuff that we can't afford to tackle right now (like the lack of a good garage), but taking on every job within reason until it became our home. It's far from where we want it, but we're really happy with it and it gets better every year.

Lots to fix and many minor annoyances, but overall this thing is still a tank.

That's what keeps me smiling.

[BleedsBlue]

Does that ever sound familiar! The little things always add up, though, and if they're being taken care of you'll feel the car slowly becoming what you want it to be. It was the same with our house: living with the big stuff that we can't afford to tackle right now (like the lack of a good garage), but taking on every job within reason until it became our home. It's far from where we want it, but we're really happy with it and it gets better every year.

Absolutely--the house I'm closing on in Denver 8/18 was built in 1948 and will be an ongoing project, as well. Trying to get ahead of this lingering E34 projects before that rabbit hole envelopes me!

Once I do some minor tune-ups on the place, I'll have more space for car projects at the house, though

That's what keeps me smiling.

This weekend, the fiance took the Touring up to Winter Park for a family get-together (I had to stay back and watch over a sick pup). It's so nice to hand her the key and not blink about it breaking down, and she said she got lots of compliments (I'm like "HOW CAN YOU PEOPLE NOT SEE THE RUST AND EVERY IMPERFECTION") and ended up driving way to fast in the canyons

[dgoodsy]

I am lead to believe that all IHKA cars are sword cars. My '95 is. This caused me some frustration when the car was brand new to me (and e34's in general) and i was looking for the resistor and couldn't find it, and didn't really know what i was looking at anywhere. I have read elsewhere that someone with a car newer that the '89 sword "cutoff" year (or whatever year it was) also had the IHKA system and sword.

[BleedsBlue]

^I am of that opinion now, as well. Funny that I couldn't find a well-known source or DIY stating as much (such as e34.net, etc). Might have been too obvious for someone like Shogun to state, and obviously more of a Euro thing as well.

I'll be installing the rebuilt sword tonight, I hope.

[dgoodsy]

I found it odd too. You did see the sword rebuild page on e34.net I assume? I bought a programa rebuilt sword and it lasted for 3 or 4 years and then it went as well. I decided i wasn't paying that much for another sword if that was as long as it was going to last and tried rebuilding it. I took my time and went slow and found that it was very doable even with me primitive electronics skillset. I recommend anyone who has played with a soldering iron and a drill a few times (and is a penny pincher like me) to try the rebuild. I reckon it's too late for you to do that, (or maybe you are completely aware and decided you didn't want to) but maybe if there is a next time...

[BleedsBlue]

(or maybe you are completely aware and decided you didn't want to)

This^

Bummer to hear your Programa only lasted 3-4 years @ $150+, but at this point I didn't have the time/workspace/accessible tools to try and do the self-fix. I have so many other projects to try and tackle, a 14 day trip out of the country followed by a quick reno of the house I'm buying before I move in, so I was happy to find the Programa. Haha.

[mottati]

my m5 had the same heat from the drivers side issue. I'm not sure if the sword is the same as the module up under the dash (black rectangular thing in a plastic box, doesn't look like a sword to me), but i swapped mine with one from an e32 in a pic n pull and it solved my problem. My sedan has the same auto climate control (as do most e32's).

[BleedsBlue]

my m5 had the same heat from the drivers side issue. I'm not sure if the sword is the same as the module up under the dash (black rectangular thing in a plastic box, doesn't look like a sword to me), but i swapped mine with one from an e32 in a pic n pull and it solved my problem. My sedan has the same auto climate control (as do most e32's).

Mike, you will be my best hope for fixing this if you can remember more details. I'm not sure which module you're referring to (and which side of the dash?), but this sounds promising!!! Browsing RealOEM as we speak.

Edit: This thing is behind the sword and has a promising name, lol. But damn it's $$$ even used/rebuilt: http://www.ebay.com/itm/64118367839-...-/282064377781

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.

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On that note, busy night last with some fairly unsatisfying time spent in the garage. I like fixing normal wear and tear, or installing upgrades, not hacking broken shite.

The blower speed issue (95% of the time, only worked on max speed) has been driving me as crazy as the driver side heat being stuck, so I went for Programa sword replacement first. Anyone who has owned an E36 probably shares my view that the E34 interior is a bit better put together, and stripping the passenger side under-dash bits was super easy.




Following a momentary panic when the Behr/BMW sword I pulled out said E32 and had an 842 P/N, while the Programa I bought based on RealOEM was E34 and 882...I said screw it, installed it, and was rewarded by a perfectly functioning blower dial. Satisfying, for at least the next three years while I have a warranty on that part

Unfortunately this satisfying sub-one-hour job did nothing to fix my driver side heat on full blast problem, so I went onto more little fixes.

• Installed V8 coding plug from a donor cluster (though my 6cyl read 151k, this one is 229k...sweet)
• Replaced a few weak bulbs in the cluster
• Poked around trying to find why my SRS light is still on, all connections look good (maybe a battery reset is needed?)
• Pulled the ADM relay under the back seat to see if that fixes or helps my driver wiper chatter (I would still install the normal, non-reverse arm for wiper availability)
• Noted I have a blown fog light fuse under hood; one fog light is working, though
• Figured out the driver seat/mirror fuse was blown, I believe water was the culprit (don't ask), but got that moving
• Dug under the driver dash, and driver seat, until I finally made some progress on the electric column and thigh bolster conundrum

I hadn't mentioned in this thread, but when I bought the car, the thigh bolster switch did nothing, the electric column switch moved the thigh bolster, and neither moved with Memory settings. For background, this car was specced with the Electric Steering Column Adjst (not Memory, according to build sheet), and Comfort, Memory seats.

I believe it was Layne in another thread who read my issue, and immediately knew connections were just switched up--and he was right. The electric column plug and thigh bolster plug are identical under the seat, 5 pins. I swapped them in the Memory module, and voila: the electric column switch actually moves the column! And responds to Memory settings!

The thigh bolster switch is still non-op (but remember, it always has been), and while I don't care about Memory working for the bolster (I know there aren't enough Memory slots for that), I need to splice some power into the switch, at least. I don't use it often but I HATE non-op electronics.

Tonight/soon I have to install the new condensor, drier, and used high side line, and hopefully I can get A/C fully charged sans leaks!

[mottati]

Mike, you will be my best hope for fixing this if you can remember more details. I'm not sure which module you're referring to (and which side of the dash?), but this sounds promising!!! Browsing RealOEM as we speak.

Edit: This thing is behind the sword and has a promising name, lol. But damn it's $$$ even used/rebuilt: http://www.ebay.com/itm/64118367839-...-/282064377781

That's it. I did this a few years back, but i think i pulled it out from the drivers side of the console.(its in the center, either in front of or behind the microfilter, can't remember exactly, but that's the locale). Pull it out, snap a pic of the and head to a pick n pull. at least here, you can't swing a dead cat without hitting an e32 in the junkyard. I pulled out a couple, one had the same part number, one had a different pn but looked the same. I prob paid $30-40 and it's still working fine a few years later. A friend of mine had the same issue with his M5T and same part fixed it.

[BleedsBlue]

That's it. I did this a few years back, but i think i pulled it out from the drivers side of the console.(its in the center, either in front of or behind the microfilter, can't remember exactly, but that's the locale). Pull it out, snap a pic of the and head to a pick n pull. at least here, you can't swing a dead cat without hitting an e32 in the junkyard. I pulled out a couple, one had the same part number, one had a different pn but looked the same. I prob paid $30-40 and it's still working fine a few years later. A friend of mine had the same issue with his M5T and same part fixed it.

Mike, you've helped me a lot before, but in the dead of summer right now at my wits' end, I'm going to send you a care package of the finest Colorado brews. I will definitely find this part used, it's a million $ new. Hope at last!

I do feel like I've eliminated every other likely culprit; despite replacing the heater valves when only one was a tiny bit stuck, I don't feel like I've been throwing money at this at least.

[Tre0Tre34]

Did you check the drivers kick to access the driver side temp sensor? Feel like i can see the passenger sensor in your picture. Maybe driver is the same? The sensors are pretty cheap.

Also, did you check the harness to the new valves you replaced in order to see if there is any oscillation upon a "warm" setting (not full heat or cold)? Believe there is no current upon a full heat setting.

Still think its a wiring or sensor issue since you replaced the heater valves themselves.

[Butler]

Congrats on the house man! You're very wise to get your cars in order before you move haha. Ze wagon is so damn sexy btw.

[BleedsBlue]

Did you check the drivers kick to access the driver side temp sensor? Feel like i can see the passenger sensor in your picture. Maybe driver is the same? The sensors are pretty cheap.

Also, did you check the harness to the new valves you replaced in order to see if there is any oscillation upon a "warm" setting (not full heat or cold)? Believe there is no current upon a full heat setting.

Still think its a wiring or sensor issue since you replaced the heater valves themselves.

Re: driver kick sensor. I've certainly seen it with all of my fumblings under there for airbag sensors, electric column connectors, etc. I wouldn't think that would affect the auto climate control settings, though? Correct me if I'm wrong.

I've trouble-shot the valves and wiring pretty thoroughly at this point, so I'm definitely most suspicious of something like what Mike is suggesting, or perhaps something as simple as a stuck open door.

Congrats on the house man! You're very wise to get your cars in order before you move haha. Ze wagon is so damn sexy btw.

Thank you, sir! Houses are a whole 'nuther ball game I hear, but I'm looking forward to those projects as well

[Billyj]

The thigh bolster switch is still non-op (but remember, it always has been), and while I don't care about Memory working for the bolster (I know there aren't enough Memory slots for that), I need to splice some power into the switch, at least. I don't use it often but I HATE non-op electronics.

Are you telling me my car has thing bolsters too? Now I just need to get it working lol! Ive been wondering what that other button is for haha

[Tre0Tre34]

If you have sport seats, they have electrically adjustable thigh bolsters. Switch should be on the inboard side of the seats.

Re: driver kick sensor. I've certainly seen it with all of my fumblings under there for airbag sensors, electric column connectors, etc. I wouldn't think that would affect the auto climate control settings, though? Correct me if I'm wrong.

I've trouble-shot the valves and wiring pretty thoroughly at this point, so I'm definitely most suspicious of something like what Mike is suggesting, or perhaps something as simple as a stuck open door.

I have not spent a lot of time looking over the fully automatic climate system, but I believe it only uses flaps and motors to control airflow to the requested vents (not to mix hot with cold air). I believe the system will find the temp sensors very necessary since it need to to know the temp of the incoming air, temp of the cabin air, and temps needed at driver and passenger airbox to meet the requested temp on the hvac dial. As ONLY your passenger side seems to work as intended, this leads me to believe that a faulty driver side airbox sensor (always showing cold?) could trick the system into always requesting heat on the driver side.

If you have ruled out wiring from hvac control to valves, it would seem pretty cheap and easy to give the temp sensor a try. I think they were like $12 - $15, and if you dont have to tear the dash out...

[BleedsBlue]

Are you telling me my car has thing bolsters too? Now I just need to get it working lol! Ive been wondering what that other button is for haha

Might not be the right term, but the extending bit at the front of sport seats is what I'm talking about.

If you have sport seats, they have electrically adjustable thigh bolsters. Switch should be on the inboard side of the seats.

Unless you have a Memory module, apparently, then the switch for thigh bolster is actually the electric column switch

Brainstorming last night, I still don't get why the column switch moved the bolster until I swapped plugs into the Memory module, and now the column switch operates the correct function AND has memory, and the thigh switch is still dead. I hate this electrocrap.

I have not spent a lot of time looking over the fully automatic climate system

Makes two of us

...but I believe it only uses flaps and motors to control airflow to the requested vents (not to mix hot with cold air). I believe the system will find the temp sensors very necessary since it need to to know the temp of the incoming air, temp of the cabin air, and temps needed at driver and passenger airbox to meet the requested temp on the hvac dial. As ONLY your passenger side seems to work as intended, this leads me to believe that a faulty driver side airbox sensor (always showing cold?) could trick the system into always requesting heat on the driver side.

If you have ruled out wiring from hvac control to valves, it would seem pretty cheap and easy to give the temp sensor a try. I think they were like $12 - $15, and if you dont have to tear the dash out...

I think you're right about the air temp mixing, and am totally going to give the driver temp sensor a try before that other larger electronic box. To be fair, the thing Mike suggested is pretty easily removable behind the heater core stuff by removing either driver or passenger carpet piece, but still. I'll check out that sensor.

Thank you for all of the help!

[Smith Jason]

Brent I believe Raymond over on the M5 board did a detailed write up about refreshing the IHKA unit. He had pictures but they might be gone. I have the same thing in mine. But as yet have had no reason to have it apart or look at it.