Heidi Diaries Part Trois: Bleeding blue in CO

[BleedsBlue]

More intensive interior cleaning this afternoon, the highlight being scrubbing my recently sourced parcel cover (thanks Racee78) with a toothbrush (the entire thing) and Oxyclean! The part was a good deal, and functions well, but it was covered in stains--which I didn't really show well in the top half before picture, but whatever. Failing light, I was in the zone, etc.



I finished the back half of the car with my Ammo Lather + brush, and spot-focus of toothbrush and Oxyclean, followed up by a good Chemical Guys conditioner wipe down. The back seat is in much better shape than the fronts, though the door panels are in much worse shape (I'm thinking because the back seat was always folded down to carry sh1t, which banged into the door panels).



Based on GregT53's comments in UnrulyGrace's thread, I'm not giving up on the front seats yet and hit them with another conditioner session today (a week after the last one). They'll be able to soak in the sun and warmth tomorrow and I'll keep lubing 'em up for a few more weeks (it's cheap conditioner, at least).

Hit that REI Garage Sale today and managed to park next to my future whip/540iT replacement...

[GregT53]

Leather is cleaning up nicely. I have used a round, horse hair shoe brush with saddle soap which works well. The horse hair is just stiff enough to work out the embedded dirt. Saddle soap has some glycerin which provides natural lubricants to the leather. The trick is to work in small sections and have a damp microfiber towel ready to wipe away the dirt laden soap.

For cracking, I use a water-based leather dye/paint exactly color matched from World Uhpolstery in CA (http://www.worlduph.com/samples/bmwlea.htm) and apply using a finger directly into the cracked areas.(Looks like your interior color is Silbergrau Hell. If so, the correct color code is 0198.) This reduces the appearance of cracks and ads a bit of strength and protection, slowing the aging process. (Sounds like an infomercial for miracle face cream!) Keep up the great work.

[BleedsBlue]

Leather is cleaning up nicely. I have used a round, horse hair shoe brush with saddle soap which works well. The horse hair is just stiff enough to work out the embedded dirt. Saddle soap has some glycerin which provides natural lubricants to the leather. The trick is to work in small sections and have a damp microfiber towel ready to wipe away the dirt laden soap.

For cracking, I use a water-based leather dye/paint exactly color matched from World Uhpolstery in CA (http://www.worlduph.com/samples/bmwlea.htm) and apply using a finger directly into the cracked areas.(Looks like your interior color is Silbergrau Hell. If so, the correct color code is 0198.) This reduces the appearance of cracks and ads a bit of strength and protection, slowing the aging process. (Sounds like an infomercial for miracle face cream!) Keep up the great work.

Greg, thank you for the advice! I am using boar hair, but I do get the feeling that's a bit too soft for the initial scrub. It's great for sensitive areas, but I'll look into a shoe brush (which I'll need for stubborn carpet work as well).

The interior is actual Parchment (I dial up the lighting a bit on these iPhone shots), but I'll look into World Upholstery and see if I want to go down that path. The driver seat in particular is a latticework of cracks; I'll take a better picture, but I'm probably not going to invest the time into fixing that when I could pick up some used covers/bolsters in better shape.

[BleedsBlue]

I've got a nice lil Will's Wheel in the Touring now, pictures to come (almost have it dead straight--the play in the E34 box makes this tricky). Yesterday I finally figured out the OBC just had dead bulbs, and I found the radio antenna for the Becker TP and hooked it up. It's the small things.

[GregT53]

Get the satellite antenna and watch your nav system spring to life!

[BleedsBlue]

Get the satellite antenna and watch your nav system spring to life!

Roughly how much do those run? I won't do it unless it's affordable, since the only real advantage I would see is no more "GPS Error" message, ha!


Der Rust Prevention Steppen 1
I worked with a GREAT eBay seller (bimmerguts) in Missouri, who had a pair of clean, late, Oxford front doors. Also a fender or two, which I don't need, and unfortunately no rear doors. But they were kind enough to ship the pair of doors via Greyhound, and save me $90 on shipping!

I almost had to break out the cocoa butter for this one...


One door (this one) is completely rust free; the other has very very minor corrosion on the inner door bottom. Both will get the bottoms treated to prevent future rust, and installed soon. The circled spots are minor chips, all of the white is just styrofoam.

[GregT53]

I think it was about $50. You'll lose the error message and gain a compass arrow. You might need to get the nav CDs to get the radio programmed. Not sure how much these are (there are two, eastern/western US). Last update was 2002, but they still work if you live in small town America. I got the antenna and CDs from Becker Autosound in NJ, but you might find on the auction site for less. I also got a cable that plugs into the back of the TP that charges and plays iPhone/iPod...very nice!

[mottati]

I think it was about $50. You'll lose the error message and gain a compass arrow. You might need to get the nav CDs to get the radio programmed. Not sure how much these are (there are two, eastern/western US). Last update was 2002, but they still work if you live in small town America. I got the antenna and CDs from Becker Autosound in NJ, but you might find on the auction site for less. I also got a cable that plugs into the back of the TP that charges and plays iPhone/iPod...very nice!

I did all of the above as well. Despite a 15 year old map, the system is pretty accurate. It's cool for a road trip. The iPod connection sound quality isn't that great on mine though.

[GregT53]

I did all of the above as well. Despite a 15 year old map, the system is pretty accurate. It's cool for a road trip. The iPod connection sound quality isn't that great on mine though.

I have had good luck with my nav here in central VA, even used it when my iPhone lost connection!
Just having the compass arrow is helpful.

Are you using Bluetooth, 3.5mm, or lighting connection for the CD Aux function. I have had all three and the lighting connection has been the best. BT had connectivity problems and the 3.5mm was noisy, picking up on ignition system static. The TP is the best unit I have had, including CD43. It's a very advanced unit with real time traffic feeds to suggest alternative routes. Pretty darn sophisticated for a near 20 year old piece!

[BleedsBlue]

On that note, Mike and Greg, did you guys ground the unit in any specific way? I hear RPM-dependent whine through it, and I couldn't see a way to ground the head unit like the factory one (maybe I missed it, I'm a stereo noob).

I also use the Lightning cable adaptor, pretty slick!

[GregT53]

Brent,

I just connected mine using the 17 pin adapter, nothing else. I am no electronics wiz but it seems that should be it. Where did you source your adapter? The only time I got RPM-dependent whine was with the 3.5mm plug in combination with an auxiliary power cord. Are you getting whine on the radio, too?

[BleedsBlue]

Greg, I had just found a really thick ground wire with the stereo harness, but there was no plug for it on the TP. I bought a nice Lightning kit from Crutchfield or someplace like that (funny, I can't find the receipt or record, but it was a well-established kit with lots of good reviews). It also uses the 17 pin adapter.

Now that you mention it, I think I only get the RPM whine using the Aux to Lightning cable; not whine on either radio, or the internal CD player.

Side note: I found the matching Oxford rear doors from the same car (they were marked as local pickup only, but I got bimmerguts to change it), WOOT!

[UnrulyGrace]

Nice work Brent!

[GregT53]

Greg, I had just found a really thick ground wire with the stereo harness, but there was no plug for it on the TP. I bought a nice Lightning kit from Crutchfield or someplace like that (funny, I can't find the receipt or record, but it was a well-established kit with lots of good reviews). It also uses the 17 pin adapter.

Now that you mention it, I think I only get the RPM whine using the Aux to Lightning cable; not whine on either radio, or the internal CD player.

Side note: I found the matching Oxford rear doors from the same car (they were marked as local pickup only, but I got bimmerguts to change it), WOOT!

I suppose you could strip the wire and just mount it to the radio chassis. Again, not an electronics expert, but that's my sense. Perhaps a member who has expertise in this area will add an opinion.

On the AUX lightening cable, how does that attach to your radio? Mine uses the green and blue rectangular connections on the back of the radio, separate from the 17 pin. I got my 17 pin and AUX lightening cable from Becker AutoSound in NJ; they took over the USA Becker business when Harmon Kardon bought Becker several years ago, presumably running Becker elsewhere around the globe, but not sure of that.

[mottati]

i'm running the 3.5 jack, and similar ignition noise. I'll look for the lightening connector.

No extra grounds here either. Just the OE 17 pin plug.

[BleedsBlue]

Nice work Brent!

Thanks J-$! Just getting rust-free doors on the car will be a yuge gain in peace of mind.

I suppose you could strip the wire and just mount it to the radio chassis. Again, not an electronics expert, but that's my sense. Perhaps a member who has expertise in this area will add an opinion.

On the AUX lightening cable, how does that attach to your radio? Mine uses the green and blue rectangular connections on the back of the radio, separate from the 17 pin. I got my 17 pin and AUX lightening cable from Becker AutoSound in NJ; they took over the USA Becker business when Harmon Kardon bought Becker several years ago, presumably running Becker elsewhere around the globe, but not sure of that.

I believe mine attaches the same way as yours (the connections are smaller, and above the 17 pin, right?).

i'm running the 3.5 jack, and similar ignition noise. I'll look for the lightening connector.

No extra grounds here either. Just the OE 17 pin plug.

I'd love to figure out if this is a grounding issue, or what (again, I'm a stereo noob). I listen to a lot of iPhone music (or Spotify) with many quiet parts, so the whine gets...whiney.

[eddycooper]

A full set of rust-free wagon doors? I think that belongs in the unobtanium thread! Nice find...I recently finished putting four brand-new doors on to my wagon.

[BleedsBlue]

^Lol, well. To be fair they are sedan doors, but I know a few adventurous welders that will attempt to swap the window frames from my current doors. I think it'll still be far cheaper than new doors, or re-spraying off-color touring doors, but who knows...I might be re-selling a pair of rust-free Oxford sedan doors in a few weeks

If it goes well, I'll make sure to document the process as well as possible for future use.

[mottati]

^Lol, well. To be fair they are sedan doors, but I know a few adventurous welders that will attempt to swap the window frames from my current doors. I think it'll still be far cheaper than new doors, or re-spraying off-color touring doors, but who knows...I might be re-selling a pair of rust-free Oxford sedan doors in a few weeks

If it goes well, I'll make sure to document the process as well as possible for future use.

i've got a rust free drivers side rear touring door, if you're ever in california.....

[BleedsBlue]

i've got a rust free drivers side rear touring door, if you're ever in california.....

Good to know, Mike, I'm in the state quite a bit sometimes having driven there, as well!

And good timing, since the rear doors feel through anyhow. I'm still in love with that eBay seller, though; they found out the doors had more scratches in the paint than they originally thought, and messaged me post-purchase about it, then refunded me when I wanted to back out. Rare, excellent customer service via eBay...

But the search for rear Oxford doors continues.

[GregT53]

I believe mine attaches the same way as yours (the connections are smaller, and above the 17 pin,right?

Yes, precisely, and they only insert one way.

[BleedsBlue]

^Man, then I wonder if you just bought a better Lightning adapter kit!? I double-checked yesterday and there is zero RPM whine via FM/AM or CD, just the iPhone

Also, WTF: after fixing a few things in the dash like the OBC lights, radio antenna, now the driver side vents only blow hot air. I was thinking I must have broken something, but a little research makes it sound like this is more indicative of stuck heater valves. Especially since the driver center vent always blew just a tiny bit warmer air than the passenger (speaking of A/C on).

I'll try testing the valves today, and then replace if needed. It looks easy but I haven't priced the valves yet, and it's a pain because it's "Colorado hot" right now (80 F)...

[BleedsBlue]

When it rains, it pours. Or more accurately, when it melts, it ignites. It's been in the 90s lately (shut up if you're in Phoenix, I'm from CA and this sucks) and Heidi has been pulling some serious shite.

REI had one of their big sales and I jumped on 20% off Thule/Yakima. The rep (one of the few stores in which sales associates on the floor actually know their stuff) convinced me to splurge a bit on more premium fork-mount bike rack, and boy am I glad I did. The model is a ThruRide, and I'll post more info/review later when I'm not in the midst of a move. But I've never had racks that were so easy to attach to the car, and also that accept and lock a bike to them in so little time.

Since I'm saving pennies for a down payment, the racks were considered a splurge--so OF COURSE Heidi started acting up for the first time in 15k miles right after I bought the racks.

Nothing serious, but the climate control is in the pits. In the hottest week in a long time, the blower resistor finally derped; I confirmed the driver heater valve is stuck and haven't been able to get it loose; and the leaking A/C system finally gave up from last summer's recharge. So my only option is currently lukewarm air at max blower speed from the passenger vents only. SDLKFJOIWEOGHSEIOG

On hand for install soon, in the middle of my move, because I'm melting:
-OEM blower resistor ($45)
-Bosch heater valves ($113)
-OEM antifreeze x2 ($40)
-Behr condensor ($56)
-Behr receiver/drier ($17)
-used OEM high side A/C line ($69)

Total: $340, not including the professional recharge/leak test I'll have to do. I haven't flushed the coolant in this car yet, so that's a nice while-I'm-in-there, plus I've got fresh Rotella T6 and an OEM filter to go in soon (miles piling up!). I'll be able to re-hand the front bumper as part of the condenser install, so it's not all bad (plus none of these jobs are too bad).

As expected, the mechanical bits have been solid over the past 15k, so I really can't complain considering what I've put her through

[Sir Montalbon]

Total: $340, not including the professional recharge/leak test I'll have to do.

Save yourself a bunch of $$$ by renting the AC gauges and vacuum pump at your local auto parts store. There's tons of good online info and theory on how to hook up the gauges, vacuum down the system to check for leaks, and then to refill yourself. Pure R-134 cans are less than $10/each at Wal-Mart. Get some PAG oil and two or three cans of Freon and you'll only be into your AC recharge for about $30.

[BleedsBlue]

Save yourself a bunch of $$$ by renting the AC gauges and vacuum pump at your local auto parts store. There's tons of good online info and theory on how to hook up the gauges, vacuum down the system to check for leaks, and then to refill yourself. Pure R-134 cans are less than $10/each at Wal-Mart. Get some PAG oil and two or three cans of Freon and you'll only be into your AC recharge for about $30.

This is something I've always thought about doing (since I dropped out of auto school in the middle of A/C class to attend a college )

Good advice, though, thank you. It'll depend on where I'm at in my move/how much time I have. More and more I'm finding excuses to let a shop do things as I get busy. I will be throwing the parts on, though. Just to install the condensor, drier, and a line Firestone wanted $Tree Fiddy.