E39 LSx Conversion

**inovermyhead** · 12-01-2021, 12:49 AM

Well, I am following in the footsteps of many before me and doing an LS conversion in an E39. For clearance reasons I went with a 528i. Mine is a 99. I am putting in an iron block LQ4 mated to a 6-speed T56 transmission. To control the engine, I will be using a Holley Terminator x. There are already plenty of technical details about this swap here on the forums, so I probably won't be going over much of that here. I will be posting major progress and big problems that I encounter. For now this is an NA build, but the plan is to go turbocharged at some point in the not too distant future.

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**inovermyhead** · 12-01-2021, 01:02 AM

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q7...-no?authuser=0

**hakentt** · 12-09-2021, 11:04 PM

even with LS swap E39 is a boring car to drive

**Lantz** · 12-11-2021, 04:20 PM

Originally Posted by hakentt

even with LS swap E39 is a boring car to drive

Based on what lol? Mine is an absolute riot to drive.

**inovermyhead** · 12-12-2021, 11:13 PM

Originally Posted by hakentt

even with LS swap E39 is a boring car to drive

I'll keep that in mind when I'm ripping it doing burnouts

**inovermyhead** · 02-19-2022, 05:46 PM

Got the motor a month or so ago from a yard in Milwaukee. Iron block LQ4, 87500 miles as a runner for $1100. It came out of a GMC van. Been busy with school since then, but have been compiling some parts. Looking to buy the t56 soon. I'm back home for the weekend, so I will start my teardown of the motor and start cleaning it up. I'm excited to start getting some more parts and start really making fast progress as the spring starts. I've been slow over the winter months as it's cold as hell in my garage and I've been away at school.

If anybody wants any of the truck motor parts let me know (ie intake manifold, ecu, oil pan, etc)
Here is a picture of the motor loaded up
IMG_0477.jpg

**Tim Mc** · 02-20-2022, 12:46 PM

The start of a very fun project! LS forever!

**motorV8ed** · 02-21-2022, 12:36 AM

Sounds like a great start!

By the way, I am in Milwaukee. I may be able to give you some local info (driveshaft shop, tuner...) In fact, my tuner is in Menomonee Falls! Also, feel free to ask me about, say, any specialty tools. For example, I bought one of those tools to align the rear main seal, and you are more than welcome to borrow it.

Good luck!

**inovermyhead** · 02-21-2022, 10:36 AM

Originally Posted by motorV8ed

Sounds like a great start!

By the way, I am in Milwaukee. I may be able to give you some local info (driveshaft shop, tuner...) In fact, my tuner is in Menomonee Falls! Also, feel free to ask me about, say, any specialty tools. For example, I bought one of those tools to align the rear main seal, and you are more than welcome to borrow it.

Good luck!

Wow, I definitely might have to take you up on the rear main seal tool. I'm actually going to be tuning the car myself, I got my start tuning Mazdaspeed 3's and I am going to try my hand at the Holley EFI system tuning, from what it looks like it's going to be a similar tuning strategy. I am also from Menomonee Falls, and am definitely going to need the name of that driveshaft shop! Are you planning on going to Automotion or highway 100? I'd love to see your car in person.

**inovermyhead** · 02-21-2022, 10:45 AM

Started tearing apart the motor, took a peek under the valve cover and everything looks pretty good! here is some pics:

IMG_0585.jpg IMG_0587.jpg
Going to be buying an ls3 intake manifold and all of the accessory relocation parts soon. Autokraft pan is looking to be my best option, which I'm fine with as they are also based out of Wisconsin! T56 just needs to be sourced and bought, as well as ECU. Major parts needed are as follows, T56, ECU, Fuel pump, injectors, cam (and supporting valvetrain mods), power steering stuff, and radiator. Wondering if anybody had any thoughts on using the Sloppy Mechanics "best cam" on the 6.0L.

I've been reading the wiring thread and perusing WDS, will update with questions when I better understand what to ask.

**motorV8ed** · 02-21-2022, 12:27 PM

The driveshaft shop is A-1 Driveshafts at 3453 N 35th St. Hey, they have a website now! http://a1driveshaft.com They are old-school and down-home.

**inovermyhead** · 03-22-2022, 10:07 PM

Really started getting a move on the motor over this spring break. Pulled the heads off, replaced the oil barbell, painted the front and rear covers, replaced the front and rear seals, and the motor is getting prepped for a full painting currently. The oil pan should be getting here tomorrow, making the only thing left to source for the motor being the intake manifold. If I don't find a suitable deal on a manifold I'll probably just start by running the truck manifold and no hood. My main priority is getting this thing running and driving and in order for that to happen as soon as possible, I might have to suffer through some minor inconvenience such as not running the hood. I'm not too worried about that though, as The motor is pretty much brand new barring the bottom end. The old cam looked good, I stuffed a bigger one in there, the "Sloppy best cam" from sloppy mechanics. I'm excited to see how this budget do it all cam works in this application. Timing chain and gear was also replaced, along with throwing in brand new LS7 Lifters and trays and a new standard volume Melling oil pump. Hope to start test fitting the motor by the end of the week.

Here are some pictures of my progress

Attachment 702364 Attachment 702366 Attachment 702365

going to need to start working on prepping that head gasket surface

I have started looking into some of the wirings in the DME box, I should only have to pull signal from a few wires just to get the car running, and possibly add some relays. The Holley system needs a 12V switched Key on and cranking power, a constant 12v power, ground, and the fuel pump trigger wire back to the fuel pump, which I believe I have to add another relay in for. After programming, the Holley should be able to output tach signal to the cluster.

If anybody has any more information on hooking up the terminator to the car (which wires I may need to pull from, relays I may have to add, etc), please feel free to chime in! This is my first time really dipping my hands into the wiring side of a project besides some simple wiring on my 81' honda gl500

**mentaleeill** · 03-25-2022, 12:07 AM

I have my holley trigger the factory e39 fp relay under the glove box. Not sure if the 99 is different, but on my 2002 525i I had to power the abs relay so abs and my speedo worked. I also put the factory bmw coolant temp sensor in the rear of the passenger head and ran that to my cluster, no messing with resistors or anything on the gm sensor to have my cluster 100% functional.

**inovermyhead** · 03-25-2022, 02:07 AM

Originally Posted by mentaleeill

I have my holley trigger the factory e39 fp relay under the glove box. Not sure if the 99 is different, but on my 2002 525i I had to power the abs relay so abs and my speedo worked. I also put the factory bmw coolant temp sensor in the rear of the passenger head and ran that to my cluster, no messing with resistors or anything on the gm sensor to have my cluster 100% functional.

I was thinking about doing something similar, but I was scared that the fuel pump I'm planning on using would be too much for the stock relay. Any idea how much power those stock relays can handle? My fuel pump relay is located in the trunk. What fuel pump are you running? I am currently investigating the whereabouts of my ABS relay as it's not in my DME box, at least from what I can tell, however I have been known to be blind sometimes

.

**inovermyhead** · 03-25-2022, 07:46 PM

I think this is where I am supposed to be looking

Screenshot 2022-03-25 184510.jpg

I was looking in the DME box based off this picture

Screenshot 2022-03-25 184614.jpg

**mentaleeill** · 03-26-2022, 10:44 PM

Originally Posted by inovermyhead

I was thinking about doing something similar, but I was scared that the fuel pump I'm planning on using would be too much for the stock relay. Any idea how much power those stock relays can handle? My fuel pump relay is located in the trunk. What fuel pump are you running? I am currently investigating the whereabouts of my ABS relay as it's not in my DME box, at least from what I can tell, however I have been known to be blind sometimes

.

I had a walbro 255, since have switched to a racetronix 340. I monitor fuel pressure through the holley and have never had a pressure drop.

**Lantz** · 03-29-2022, 03:36 PM

This isn’t by any means scientific but I run a walbro 400lph off the stock BMW relay.

**inovermyhead** · 03-30-2022, 01:38 AM

Awesome thanks guys, I'll definitely be going that route then.

**inovermyhead** · 04-11-2022, 03:52 PM

I just realized that I have to start getting the manual swap going, does anybody know if the brake and clutch assembly out of an m5 will work in my 528? Otherwise, I think there are some 528i assemblies on ebay, mostly concerned about the difference for the master cylinder. That brings me to my next question, would an m5 master cylinder would be able to handle the actuation of the t56, or if I'm going to have to retrofit a Tilton or something on to the new assembly.

**mentaleeill** · 04-11-2022, 08:54 PM

There's a difference between early and late model pedal assemblies, they are not interchangeable. I run the factory bmw master and it pushes my monster stage 3 clutch just fine. Pedal feel is great, and I don't have any high rpm shift problems like some people have mentioned in other threads.

**inovermyhead** · 04-20-2022, 06:14 PM

Originally Posted by mentaleeill

There's a difference between early and late model pedal assemblies, they are not interchangeable. I run the factory bmw master and it pushes my monster stage 3 clutch just fine. Pedal feel is great, and I don't have any high rpm shift problems like some people have mentioned in other threads.

The stock 528i MC or a stock m5 MC?

**Sovereign540** · 04-22-2022, 10:06 PM

Have you found a T56 yet? If not, have you considered the CD009 transmission? It is found in Nissan 350/370Zs and Infiniti G35/37s. It has closer gear ratios to the factory Getrag six speed from the E39 V8 cars. This keeps you from having to change the rear end ratio to something exotic. You could easily run the 3.15 M5 rear gear no problem. With a T56, you need at least a 3.42 or else it's going to suck to drive. Also,given how expensive T56s are, you may find you can pick up the CD009 and the adapter plate for less and be easier to find. Just a thought. If/when I do an LS conversion on an E39, this would most likely be the route I go.

Good luck to you.

**inovermyhead** · 04-23-2022, 01:34 AM

Originally Posted by Sovereign540

Have you found a T56 yet? If not, have you considered the CD009 transmission? It is found in Nissan 350/370Zs and Infiniti G35/37s. It has closer gear ratios to the factory Getrag six speed from the E39 V8 cars. This keeps you from having to change the rear end ratio to something exotic. You could easily run the 3.15 M5 rear gear no problem. With a T56, you need at least a 3.42 or else it's going to suck to drive. Also,given how expensive T56s are, you may find you can pick up the CD009 and the adapter plate for less and be easier to find. Just a thought. If/when I do an LS conversion on an E39, this would most likely be the route I go.

Good luck to you.

You my good sir have officially doomed me to more wakeless hours of research and deliberation when I really should be getting to bed hahaha.
I honestly have been looking for t-56 alternatives, as they are honestly out of hand with pricing. I don’t know how I haven’t stumbled across this!
Thanks man, I’ll be looking into this, it looks EXTREMELY attractive, assuming that I can get shifter location and such to line up. Has anybody done this in an e39 before? Only sad thing would be that I probably wouldn’t be able to use my Jesus freak t56 trans mount

**mentaleeill** · 04-23-2022, 09:21 AM

Originally Posted by inovermyhead

The stock 528i MC or a stock m5 MC?

I bought a genuine bmw 525 mc.

**inovermyhead** · 06-16-2022, 08:13 AM

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a cd009. Found an unmolested cd009 with no shifter and a cracked bellhousing for $350 with about 80,000 miles on it and had to get it. I am going to try and modify the mounts I have right now to work, but as a backup plan Sikky said they would sell me the mount out of their kit separately. I have to cut the bellhousing off the CD009 and put a t56 one on, along with the slave cylinder. The shifter will also have to be relocated forward quite a ways, the shifter location on the stock cd009 is quite far back. Will attach pictures when free.