How to start VVTi 2Jz in your BMW with independent wiring and no aftermarket ECU

[hobbitrabbit]

I've seen multiple threads claiming that aftermarket engine management is a MUST for a 2Jz swap. It's easy to Independently wire a non-VVTi motor and there's a few tutorials. This is for VVTi engines, as they are becoming easier to find stateside for less than their USDM non-VVTi Counterparts.

Aftermarket engine management isn't required. It can be massively helpful, and very beneficial, but it isn't a requirement.

I have a running VVTi 2Jz inside my e36 325 Coupe, using the stock JDM ECU and it's great. Here's how I made it happen. If there's anything I've overlooked feel free to let me know.

We all know it's very simple to set up wiring for a non-VVTi 2jz and run it outside of the car, but I haven't found any valuable information on running the VVTi engine. The ECU Pinouts are very different but I got mine running in my e36 BMW straight off of a switch panel- no aftermarket management, stock ECU. Veteran Members, if I've done anything that could potentially lead to failure let me know and we can amend this DIY.

Skills Required:
Basic understanding of Wiring-
Soldering Abilities

Tools Required:
Soldering Gun/Iron
Solder
Wire stripper
Wire cutters

Parts Required:
Heat Shrink
Terminal Connectors for making grounds

This is going to be basic. I don't know where your grounds are and I don't know where your power source is. I'm running my ECU off of a relay fused to 25A but that's just me. I'm also assuming you are running your fuel pump independently powered, or separately from the ECU, (which works fine for this) so I'm not including details on running the fuel pump out of the ECU because it's not necessary to run the engine outside of the car.

This is the pinout diagram we will be using. It's very detailed but a little cumbersome. However it explains things very well so I found it tremendously helpful. You can find it here:

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...ngineECUPinout

So here are the pins you will need to solder up. There is one pin on the F59 ECU Connector, 7 Pins on F60 ECU Connector, and 2 Pins on BF2 Body Connector. They are as follows, as per the diagram.

F59 Connector:
Pin 2- STA: This needs to be attached to the small wire going to the starter solenoid. This tells the ECU that you are trying to start the engine. Do not attach this to the power wire on your starter or it will not go well.

F60 Connector:
Pin 1- BATT: Run this to 12V, Fused. I have a 25A on there as that's the OE Spec.
Pin 7- +BM: Run to Power. This powers the electronic throttle control and TPS sensor.
Pin 8- +B2: Run to Power. This is incoming power for the EFI system.
Pin 9- IGSW: Run to Power. This is the ignition switch.
Pin 10- MREL: Run to Power. This tells the ECU that the EFI Main Relay is active.
Pin 16- +B: Run to Power. This is simply a 12v source.
Pin 22- EC: Run to ground. This is a main ground for the ECU.

Finally, you need to wire 2 pins on body plug BF2. This is pretty far down in the diagram and under the picture of the pin is the number 90980-11527. Your engine WILL NOT START without wiring this plug.

Pin 6: Wire to Power. Coil and ignition module 12v.
Pin 7: Wire to Power. EFI/Injector 12v.

Make sure you have oil in there, that you've got a source for fuel, and you should fire right up! Feel free to correct me if I made any kind of mistake here.

[Acht]

Thankyou!! Been looking for this info for so long. Any updates on how its been running?

[Mihadd]

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but it's my first time doing any wiring in a car so... what exactly does "run to power" mean?

Is it like really just running a wire from the desired pin to power?
And "power" probably being something after giving it contact on the key?

Also, this post... best thing ever