Steering Not Returning to Center

**Speidz** · 05-05-2016, 02:22 PM

Hi all. I have a 98 M3 Coupe.

I've owned the car for just over a year now and honestly can't remember if it was like this when I first bought it but it's definitely getting worse. Anyway, the steering is extremely light. I can turn the wheel with my pinky effortless. I don't believe this is normal but this is my first E36 M3 and only one I've driven.

The main problem I have though is that when I turn left, it'll self center till it gets to about 9o clock. After that it stops and just keeps turning. The right side is better but it still doesn't fully center. It maybe stops at 1o clock. I've replaced front struts and strut mounts last July. I just did inner and outer tie rods 500 miles ago with a full body alignment. I had a small power steering leak and fixed that too but I'm pretty sure it isn't that because it's obviously working since the steering is crazy light. I sprayed that bushing with Tri Flow Lubricant that is coming from the firewall like crazy and that also hasn't corrected the issue. The steering wheel itself doesn't squeak either. Looking for any ideas. Next step I was thinking of taking is doing new LCA on both sides.

**RightYouAreKen** · 05-05-2016, 02:37 PM

One thing that could cause that is if someone messed with the steering rack preload adjustment bolt to hide or try to counteract some slop or wear in the rack and pinion gears. If you set it too tight, the steering won't self center anymore. But that doesn't seem to me to coincide with extremely light steering.

Another thing that could maybe cause it is worn upper strut mount bearings?

In my experience, the E36 M3 steering shouldn't be described as pinky light under nearly any circumstance. Certainly my experience with my car and a few others I've driven is that the steering is quite a bit heavier than my Ford F150 or my wife's Acura RDX, for example.

**Speidz** · 05-05-2016, 02:49 PM

Wouldn't the strut mount bearings be included in new strut mounts? I didn't install that part myself.

**Braymond141** · 05-05-2016, 03:18 PM

Light steering is caused from DIY high pressure line replacement without swapping over the inline restrictor.

**Mless5** · 05-05-2016, 03:20 PM

I am experiencing "no returning" of the steering wheel, but I am pretty sure it is due to misalignment after control arms/lollipops have been replaced to a different configuration (non M arms with offset bushes).

**RightYouAreKen** · 05-05-2016, 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by Speidz

Wouldn't the strut mount bearings be included in new strut mounts? I didn't install that part myself.

Yes, of course, they are one in the same. Sorry, I didn't see that you had replaced them.

**Speidz** · 05-05-2016, 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by RightYouAreKen

Yes, of course, they are one in the same. Sorry, I didn't see that you had replaced them.

Not a problem! I thought I'd ask to be safe! Thanks for the idea though.

On that High Pressure Line, which one am I looking for if I were to change that out? I haven't done that so I'm not sure if someone did it before me and didn't do it properly.

**Braymond141** · 05-05-2016, 03:49 PM

You can see the restrictor in the hose where the oetiker clamp is. I should have called this the "cooling" line.

Mfg Part #
32412228284

**Speidz** · 05-05-2016, 04:02 PM

Any other parts I should pick up while fixing that cooling line?

**Braymond141** · 05-05-2016, 04:10 PM

Originally Posted by Speidz

Any other parts I should pick up while fixing that cooling line?

Probably, but the only known issue right now is that you're missing that restrictor. I would start with that and see what's what after.

**CGumina** · 05-06-2016, 10:08 AM

Also worth noting, I had a similar issue for "returning to center" when the pivot bearings went dry on my steering shaft, but my steering was never light. Doesn't hurt to lube up the joints with some spray lube while you're in there.

**boarder2k7** · 05-06-2016, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by Braymond141

Light steering is caused from DIY high pressure line replacement without swapping over the inline restrictor.

Originally Posted by Braymond141

You can see the restrictor in the hose where the oetiker clamp is. I should have called this the "cooling" line.

Mfg Part #
32412228284

That's what came to my mind while reading this too. Isn't that the low pressure return line that's restricted though?

OP - I got my replacement line cheap from FCP Euro price matching ECS. The part has a lifetime warranty from FCP.

**Braymond141** · 05-06-2016, 11:59 AM

Yes, which is why I corrected myself and said the cooling line.

**Speidz** · 05-06-2016, 04:11 PM

I'll look into that still this weekend hopefully but I guess I'd say the steering feels super light because there is zero resistance to the left till about 8o Clock.

**boarder2k7** · 05-06-2016, 08:44 PM

Originally Posted by Braymond141

Yes, which is why I corrected myself and said the cooling line.

Sorry, I just meant to be clarifying that the cooling line is also the low pressure line in this system, as opposed to engine and transmission oil coolers that are in the pressure side of the loop. I didn't think it was clear from the two posts that it wasn't a high pressure cooling line. Just trying to avoid confusion.

**Speidz** · 05-09-2016, 02:15 PM

So any ideas on why the steering doesn't center?

**boarder2k7** · 05-09-2016, 02:23 PM

Originally Posted by Speidz

So any ideas on why the steering doesn't center?

Have you fixed the lack of restrictor?

Since power steering works on very small pressure differentials through the valving I wouldn't be surprised if having the additional flow through the rack has increased the amount of steering assistance. This may make the normal frictional forces in the steering linkage enough to hold it off center. The drag is being amplified as a steering input, keeping the wheel from returning.

Edit - Also how is your alignment? Lots of toe out will also cause your steering to not return.

**Speidz** · 05-09-2016, 03:09 PM

Haven't checked the restrictor. Busy weekend. I just had the alignment done with I believe 0.10 toe in in front.

**emccallum** · 05-09-2016, 03:24 PM

Not returning to center could be any number or combination of things. I know some things have been changed, but it would be wise to put it on a rack and go through every bushing and joint to check for stiffness or wear. Have someone turn the wheel and watch what is going on. Caster, which is non adjustable on the M3, is usually the measure that helps steering to return to center. Bad ball joints, tire pressure, steering rack, tie rods, upper strut bearing, etc can all cause issues. Most alignment shops will do the best they can with what you bring them. They wont diagnose for you.

You may find it is easier to tear down the entire front suspension and replace anything that isn't perfect. That is what I did, and I couldn't believe the difference it made. It isn't real hard or expensive, but it does take some know how and a few special tools, like a press and ball joint remover.

**jayjaya29** · 05-09-2016, 05:31 PM

The restrictor will not cause this problem. My 97 didn't come with one, steering worked fine w/o it.

**Speidz** · 05-10-2016, 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by emccallum

Not returning to center could be any number or combination of things. I know some things have been changed, but it would be wise to put it on a rack and go through every bushing and joint to check for stiffness or wear. Have someone turn the wheel and watch what is going on. Caster, which is non adjustable on the M3, is usually the measure that helps steering to return to center. Bad ball joints, tire pressure, steering rack, tie rods, upper strut bearing, etc can all cause issues. Most alignment shops will do the best they can with what you bring them. They wont diagnose for you.

You may find it is easier to tear down the entire front suspension and replace anything that isn't perfect. That is what I did, and I couldn't believe the difference it made. It isn't real hard or expensive, but it does take some know how and a few special tools, like a press and ball joint remover.

That's what I was thinking. I mean, I've already done new struts/strut mounts, inner and outer tie rods, and the sway bar linkage. Only thing really left to hit would be my control arms I believe right? Don't the new control arms come with the bushings already mounted or am I seeing things wrong?

**emccallum** · 05-10-2016, 09:58 AM

New control arms have two ball joints (one short, one long) and a bushing. If you buy new arms they will probably come with the ball joints and not the bushing. I would be willing to guess that your ball joint is stiff and not allowing the strut to rotate easily. But that is just a guess.

I ordered replacement ball joints and pressed them out/in myself. Way cheaper, but it is hard to do without a good press (20+ tons). I guess you could order the ball joints and take them to a shop to press in for you. Do a search for the proper part numbers to order as I think BMW doesnt list a replacement for the m3, but they are the same as another model, IIRC.

Get one of these, they work great:

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-391...+joint+remover

Hope that helps. Sorry I dont have all the details and part numbers, it has been a while.

**boarder2k7** · 05-10-2016, 10:13 AM

I don't think control arms are your issue. I had an E36 a few years ago that had the ball joints so far gone when I got it they had an eighth inch of slop in them, and one of the rear CABs had no rubber left and the arm would clank in the ring when turning.

Steering centering still worked fine.

After a bad alignment though (too much toe out) centering was off. I'd get a tape measure out and do a quick toe check. I know you got it aligned, but I've had alignment shops do crappy work having handed me a sheet saying it was in spec. (Just ate the inside edge off a set of new front tires after a full alignment

)

That said, a suspension refresh won't hurt the car at all. I'm glad I did mine, it feels much better to drive now. I got ball joints and bushings and pressed them in myself. Not terribly hard, but you'll need a press, my 20 ton did it but it wasn't easy, not sure a 10 ton would. There's a thread around for which ball joints fit, I think it was E30 M3.

If you don't want to DIY you can get new arms from some retailers with bushings and lollipops already on them for an added fee. I'm not sure this is a great plan because of the proper install method of getting it dropped on the ground and bouncing it to seat them within 30 minutes, but I don't know how important that is. I haven't tried the pre-installed ones.

**M3AN** · 05-13-2016, 08:14 AM

Tyres? Balance?

Swap front wheels, does it make a difference?

**Speidz** · 07-22-2016, 12:25 PM

Sorry all. Life got super busy, I got engaged so that means I have even less money than before now! Anyway, problem isn't fixed. The restrictor is in the hose. So is the next best guess the control arm bushings? I really don't want to throw money at stuff that isn't going to help. I have also lubed the hell out of the bushing near the firewall that everyone talks about. Didn't help either. I used the Tri-Flow Lubricant for that too.