£1850 all in and it should work OK with the gearbox.
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1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
Is it possible to swap upper and lower timing covers from another engine or are they machined to fit each engine individually etc?
AFAIK they are completely swappable. There's gasket surfaces interfacing so shouldn't be any issue...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Well, with full DME control, there's no reason you couldn't make it work in middle of the 20 degrees so you had -10 and +10 from 'default'. You'd basically have to A. re-time the VANOS/cams (which would be tricky) then B. reprogram the whole DME VANOS tables from scratch.
To re-time the cams you could rig some kind of indexed degree wheel on them - zero them out in the factory '0' then dial back - but this would be a PITA for holding the cams steady while torquing the VANOS gear bolts. Another route would be use factory cam locks but instead of the factory procedure to keep VANOS fully closed, index the VANOS itself, and torque it down in the exact mid-point. That might be a lot easier in fact now that I think of it.
Doing that whole thing you'd really prob want a standalone then to be able to handle the VANOS timing more conveniently than the factory mystery DME's. Would have to do some triple checking on valve clearance too to be sure there wasn't any tricky bits there.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
He will be installing a MAP sensor and IAT to the charge coolers, the temp sensor in the MAF will read a bit colder than the forced air being pushed in by the blower he said.
He is still doing his research on the standard ecu to find the best way to hook it all up. Would this be something that you might be interested in doing in the future ? as i can ask him if that price would also stand for you also.
1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
I often thought about trying to get a temp sensor in the charge cooler to work with the standard ecu but it's all very difficult. With a standalone its a 5 minuite job.
I have a slight plan on the standalone front just waiting till i can get inside this engine some more before I do anything. Thanks for the offer though
Just thinking about parts I need to order, should I be replacing the big end bearings as I plan to change the rods? I wouldn't have the crank ground or anything just a standard sized set. They can be had for about £70 quite cheap tbh
Wagonsho can probably comment on whether he's seeing much rod bearing wear in his engines he's torn down, but honestly you probably want to just take a look at them. If they don't look nice, then replace them. If they do look nice, you might as well leave well enough alone and not ask for an issue by potentially changing a clearance that doesn't need changing. That's my 2 cents' worth anyway.
I would replace the bearings if I was doing it. It's one less point of failure to be worried about.
Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder.
Sometimes when you replace good bearings you end up with a less desirable clearance. And that is a problem, where previously you had none. Just food for thought.
Just throw some Plastigauge in there to check the clearances.
I can picture your dog chasing a ball across your neatly stacked parts...........
How come no 3 angle valve job?
Jon, there are some things in life where tight is NOT good. What are your plans for those ring gaps?
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I don't see why one of the rings from a good cylinder in your other engine wouldn't be just fine. Used ring from an alusil cylinder either way, right?
Do you have a ring expander, or were you using some other method to install that one?
Yeah that's what I was thinking. Obviously won't be worn in the same manner but I can't imagine it will be a million miles off. I'll check the old block for a cylinder with no damage on and get one from there.
No I don't have a ring expander I was doing it by hand. This is my first time delving this deep into an engine so I'm not fully kitted out for it
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