m62B44 engine rebuilding

[RRandy]

I did some digging last night regarding people that had welded Alusil, I think I posted an earlier link to somebody repairing the engine mounts but I also found a really good thread yesterday regarding the best filler rod to use. I’m away but I’ll post up the thread when I’m back. There is a 12% silicon rod available but other lower silicon rods were also recommended . I am wondering what aluminium I can get hold of to make the lugs out of but if I’m coffee tabling the 4.4 block I could cut the actual lugs out of that but I’ll probably acquire some bar and make them from scratch.
I’ll take a look at that thread when I’m back thank you.

[jon316i]

This is the from 4.4 engine I purchased, i am thinking it wasn't well maintained although I have seen worse.

I found this interesting viewing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFKsmrBZj0E

Weird the engine is a non tu but has a tu lower timing cover for a water cooled alt.

That's my engine in the video above I used the Tu lower cover as my car was originally a Tu so just made it easier to use my current rad etc with the push style clips and I converted it to drive by wire too when I went standalone

[JimLev]

That's my engine in the video above I used the Tu lower cover as my car was originally a Tu so just made it easier to use my current rad etc with the push style clips and I converted it to drive by wire too when I went standalone

Thanks, figured there must have been a reason for it.

[RRandy]

Quick question guys.
i have a chance of a cheap M62TUB35 engine block which is the same as the 3.5 block i have already. i checked the casting number to make sure it was alusil and i realised the casting number is the same as the block i have which comes back as an M60B30 Alusil block.. The number is 1745871c. it also has 439/4 and is from an e38 1999 year 735

Would the M60B30 block be the same as the M62TUB35 ? I had a look up on the net, they both have the same bore size but the 3.5 just has a longer stroke i believe.
The engine is definitely a vanos and looks the same as my M62.

You don't need to ask why i might want two 3.5 engine blocks when my idea is daft enough with just one but it is very cheap and means i can waste even more time and money on it,(i have very little of either to spare).
Thanks
Andy

[geargrinder]

Oh dude just don't do it.

Quick google turns this up...
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post25887521

There's every chance the doorknob you bought the first motor from mis-represented it because either he didn't know what he had, or, he knew that the market for M60B30's was thinner than M62B35's.

Stop wasting time and money on buying the wrong engine blocks man. Seriously you may need medication.

[RRandy]

I do have a rather over active optimism gland unfortunately, it is not a new thing..

So what i take from your message is that there is a chance it could be the correct block

One possible blessing could be that the guy with he cheap engine may want to rebuild his engine so he may want to buy my block which has very good bores, up until I get my hands on them, and he can give me his old block to feck about with. His car is definitely a 3.5 vanos that it came out of but that is not to say somebody didn't sell him a dodgy 735.

Regarding the medication, my doctor said that providing I keep up with the therapy from you guys I should be able to ease back on it.

I hope i am not clogging up an epic thread with my ramblings.

I wonder if i could make a W16 engine with two V8 blocks..

Thanks, your counselling is much appreciated as always.

Andy

[StRaNgEdAyS]

M60 engines weren't vanos

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

[RRandy]

Ok, Thanks, I have concluded, rightly or wrongly, that the later M60B30 Alusil block was used in the M62TUB35 engine or the thread detailing the casting numbers is wrong or incomplete.
This is a photo of the front of the engine with the M60B30 Alsuil block I attached a photo of the casting number from.

Onward and downwards !

[JimLev]

^-yup, that is a vanos engine.

[geargrinder]

or the thread detailing the casting numbers is wrong or incomplete

Don't rule that out by any means. I've also seen sometimes these "not full part numbers" that are printed on some parts be confusing like that... like that is a partial that doesnt include the indication of the revisions... But hey maybe it is same block, I dunno...

This is a photo of the front of the engine with the M60B30 Alsuil block I attached a photo of the casting number from.

Not sure what you're saying. You should be able to use the transitive property to connect the posts by Jim and Stranger... But allow me to make this clear: that is NOT an M60. (nor an M62 for that matter)

[RRandy]

But allow me to make this clear: that is NOT an M60. (nor an M62 for that matter)

Thanks for the replies.

So if that engine is not an M60 and is not an M62, what engine would it be coming from a 1999 European E38 735 ?

[geargrinder]

Well it IS an M62TU. No doubt about that. That's all I can tell you. Who knows about the displace.

[RRandy]

ok, thanks, i am going to help the guy strip it down for parts anyway as he doesn't have the tools and this engine was removed from his car and replaced when the timing chain guides failed.
The M60B30 and M62TUB35 have the same bore size but different strokes (that program hasn't been re run for while for some reason) if wiki is correct so I'll measure the stroke when we take it apart.

[Jefry e39 m62tu]

Hello, I have a question I have an e39, m62tub44 engine and I want to put a turbo I have a turbo kit for e39, chip to tune the ECU and turbo ct26 toyota 7mgte, I just want the sound of the download and I do not mess with the parts that I thought to reduce the compression of the engine with 10.0. 1 to 9.0.1, that you recommend 6 0 8 psi of the turbo with that I'm satisfied and that the engine does not burst

[Jefry e39 m62tu]

Hola a todos Soy nuevo aquí tengo un BMW e39 con motor v8 m62tub44 quier montarte turbo y no ando buscando un gran aumentó de potencia con lo hp que tiene de fábrica ya me basta en el tráfico de republica Dominicana sólo quiero algo donde pueda Escuchar la descarga del blow off tengo el kit de turbo para e39 , chip de tunig para la ecu, mofleria directa 3.5 doble, y un turbo ct26 que saque de un motor 7mgte , la turbina panel ponerle entre 6 y 8 psi para no tener que meterme con los internos del motor pensa bajar la relación de 10.0.1 a 9.0.1 creo Que eso aguantará las 6 o8 psi de la turbina y podré andar turbo si muchos gastos que me recomiendan: lol

[geargrinder]

m62tub44 engine...I have a turbo kit for e39

No you don't.

[tptrsn]

Something lost in translation?

[RRandy]

i made the lugs to convert the 3.5 engine and had them welded on so it would now fit in my range rover in place of my m62tub44 - and that is where my project has stalled out of lack of time and optimism ..

[underpants]

A little more information I thought I would share.

Apparently the ARP headbolts from the s65 will also work in the m60/m62/s62 engines so now we have another option for headbolts.

The s65 bolts are 5mm longer but apparently that is not an issue.

[rome79979]

Try to find M62b46 inside the belly
93MM

- - - Updated - - -

https://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21852345114264

[wagons ho]

I have seen a lot of posts about m62 ticking problems lately. Could just be that everyone's cars are getting to "that age".
Expanding my circles to the s62 crowd has found the same thing.
During my first. (BMW) engine overhaul some 6 years ago, my machinist with 40 years import experience advised me about BMW lifters.
He said prior to reassembling the engine, that the lifters needed to be milked to get the oil out. Any that didn't feel right empty should be tossed.
Of course with the number of engines gone through since then I'd be broke buying lifters, so I dug into them for answers.
I found 2 problems milking them, ones that were flat, and ones that wouldn't pump down. Both problems are the result of the same thing causing a variety of problems with all BMW engines, low detergent synthetic oil.
I now disassemble all lifters to flush and clean the check ball in the plunger.
The ones that are "flat" usually have a speck of debris "varnish flakes" under the check ball, which depending on other wear might warrant pitching.
The non pumping ones have the check ball varnished stuck . They can be cleaned.
Of course the good news is that the lifters don't have to follow the cam lobe. So used ones can be swapped in. I have 30k on a "cleaned" 4.4, and not one tick ever.
As far as restarting the engine with dry lifters, I've never had one tick past getting oil pressure. Of course they were lubed to reassemble, but not filled.
Ideally I would prelube an engine, but the chain drive pump makes that a little hard.
This flies in the face with the idea of bleeding the lifters in oil, with a vacuum source to remove the air.
That would result in a solid lifter at start up, holding a valve open or worse.
So lifters that are ticking will need a heavy dose of motor solvents, or just to be pulled, cleaned or replaced.
20191021_121237.jpg

[JimLev]

I've tried it the past to pull out that little sucker on some spare lifters I have, they wouldn't budge.
The junkyard I was at last week sells them for 0.85 a piece. Two of the cams were out, I should have grabbed some.

[underpants]

I've heard mention of b20 lifters being used in the m6X engines.
Anyone done this or know what advantages it gives?

I've also heard of S38B36 pistons being used in the m62b46 engine - does anyone know the advantage of this?

[underpants]

Just to update my above post after doing some research.

The m50b20 lifters are aparently the lightest lifters found in 1990-2002 gen and the advantage is the weight. The less weight you have, the less restriction and the more power you get apparently?

Can anyone confirm this, and is it worth doing on a rebuild?

[JimLev]

One thing for sure the less valve train weight you have the higher RPM you can attain without the valves floating.