I'm coming to the conclusion that the weak part of the engine is the gaskets and the tune. Lol
Seriously though, the rods do NOT seem to be the weak point. If things go wrong in the combustion chamber too much under boost, it seems that the pistons and/or rings have problems first and tear each other up. In the process they tear up the cylinder wall sometimes.
That's not to say that they are "weak," though, but a piston and ring package made for boost would probably tolerate the mistreatment better and for longer.
1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Arp doesnt do head studs for our motors, but I have found these guys who do.
Any thoughts?
http://raceware-fasteners.com/
Yep they are a known brand. I've not used them before on motors - have used ARP's - I assume the raceware products are similar...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Sadly arp don't do head studs for our motor.
Do you know of any other aftermarket reusable headstuds for the m60/m62?
This is quite a thread !
i have read this all the way from the beginning and I am very impressed.
I am considering a build myself and was wondering whether to tag on the end of this one or start a new one.
In short, i have a 2004 Range Rover with the M62TUB44 engine which is a little tired, rattles too much even after replacing most of it and is also down on compression on one bank, the lowest being 165 psi which I think has been caused by a blocked cat.
Anyway, I am interested in sleeving these engines as it is a bit hit and miss to find a good block and if I can sleeve one successfully I know I can then bring these vehicles back from the dead.
i am also thinking of supercharging or turbo to give the vehicle a little more get up and go without going silly, the current 286 ish BHP is a little on the light side for a 2.5 tonne fatty.
i have purchased a complete engine cheap and all i know is that 3 cylinders are suspect but until i get it i don't know if somebody has already had a go at sleeving or whether it is just the standard bores that are damaged.
i also found Alusil liners that I have no idea whether they are good idea or not but this is another dimension i hadn't heard of before.
http://www.pierburg-service.de/ximag...199_en_web.pdf
Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated
The info about the alusil liners is interesting.
1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
That's what I was thinking, when my broken engine turns up I'll have a look at what liners are required.
i like the idea of using the OEM pistons and rings and the aluminium liners have the same expansion rate as the block.
The procedure for fitting them looks involved but I am happy to give it a go, i would need to locate somebody to do the honing and final finishing though unless it is something i can do myself.
From what I can tell they don't recommend repairing a complete block using these liners where iron liners would be better - i think.
What do those liners cost?
No idea at the moment, I'll send them an email
I doubt those alusil liners will work for our engines, but see what they say if you can. Not enough space between cyliders for the wall thickness needed that I see at first glance, but I've been wrong many times before. Alum needs more thinckness than steel sleeves and that will get real tight where the cylinders are close.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
I suppose it the existing material is aluminium then replacing it with the same material would have the same strength but if it is not actually joined to the main structure of the block then strength could be lost.
My practice engine has arrived but what condition it is in internally is yet to be discovered other than i know it has at least three compromised cylinders ...
IIRC I measured 6mm between bores.
bores.jpg
Not sure how clear this is but it says the bores are Alusil and Nikasil coated and polished in my range rover manual. Bores are 82.7 diameter x 92 mm stroke if that sounds correct.
These guys do some fine work on Nikasil Porsche engines but they don't do the BMW engines as i have already asked. https://www.hartech.org/cylinder-liners
Are the M62TUB44 engines having steel / cast iron liners fitted successfully for engines that are to be used at daily drivers rather than full on race engines and is it possible to get the correct piston rings to suit them that fit in the original pistons or do new pistons need to be fitted as well when using steel / iron liners?
I would like to add a splash of supercharger eventually if i can get the new engine sorted with the liners. i also have a running engine in my range rover.
Last edited by RRandy; 08-23-2018 at 04:23 PM.
If you are set on sleeves this is a option http://www.maxsilpistons.com/engine_rebuild_kits.html
E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me
That's a very interesting link thank you.
I see the Duraliners are a cast iron liner and i am very new to this and i am slowly suffering death by google but i seem to read that 50% say that iron liners don't go well in the M62TUB44 and 50% say they they do.
I am guessing that one of the problems is overcome with the link you have provided as they supply the pistons to suit and i guess as long as the interference fit calculations are correct the iron liners wont become loose due to differential in heat expansion of the different materials.
I haven't even unwrapped the engine yet and already my brain is fried from researching the different options of cylinder repair.
Thanks for the information everyone. i will continue on this thread if that is ok with my progress ?
Some folks have used cast iron liners for low compression builds that were to be turbo’d etc. many found failures likely due to improper ring gap as that will change if you switch bore material.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did read some of that earlier in this epic thread, I like the idea of a tame supercharger if i can sort the liner issue but if not I may end up sourcing a good block and building from there. I would like to find a reliable solution to the cylinder issue if I can. I am looking for longevity and reliability with a bit more power rather than flat out racing. My vehicle is a 2.5 tonne Range Rover so is not great around the bends and I would still like it to be usable off road. The extra power is not necessary but I'll take it if it is there.
Thank you.
Last edited by RRandy; 10-03-2018 at 03:28 PM.
Bit of an update from what i have been up to and a question.
I unwrapped my engine and took the heads off, 7 cylinders are very badly scored and one is perfect which is strange, i am thinking oil starvation.
Also I hadn't noticed but the starter motor mount hole was broken off so if I was going to use the block i would need to weld that as well so I am thinking this block is destined to become a coffee table but i did get crank and heads so not a total loss.
I got a guide price for the Alusil sleeves and they are over £200 each and not in stock yet and also I asked the manufacturer and they don't recommend installing that many sleeves due to the risk of the engine twisting. They are designed to replace a single bore back to original spec or at least not adjacent cylinders.
My latest idea which could also be a total waste of time is to take an M62B35 engine and bore and hone it out to 92mm and replace the pistons and rings with standard 4.4 ones and at least that way i will have a known good bore but I am unsure if this is feasible as i will need to remove 8 mm on diameter and although I know the block is an Alusil one I am not sure if there is a risk of porosity or whether anything else is done to the bore prior to boring and honing and whether the Alusil runs evenly through the whole of the blocks material.
Anyone have any ideas ?
The 3.5 block is due to be delivered this week anyway.
I may end up with two coffee tables..
Wow. Used M62 engines are dimey-dozeny here so not in a million years would you hassle with boring out a B35... but... I SUPPOSE it'll work.. Just make sure you look into the whole special Alusil honing tool/paste methodology... 1998_520d_N has home-honed his motor and so far seems like its worked out real well...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
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