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Thread: A neverending battle trying to make my E46 handle well.

  1. #101
    Join Date
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    2018 BMW M240i
    Just out of curiosity, was your car built with wheels of different widths? My 330Ci has the sports package (BMW code is ZSP). It came with staggered wheels (front wheels are either 1/2" or 1" narrower than the rear wheels) and tires. The tires are same sizes as those on your car-staggered. Does your car have the sports package . Go to bmw.work. Yes, it's a real website. Enter the last 7 characters of the car's VIN. The site will provide you with a 3 or 4 page production description of the car. I'm thinking that your wheels are the same width but you're running staggered tires. Worth a check.

  2. #102
    Join Date
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    2003 330ci
    I can't check the website right now but my wheels are staggered. The rears are a fair bit wider than the fronts.

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  3. #103
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    04 ZHP, 83 320i, 00 M5
    The wheels on my 330i are 18s 225 up front 255 rear stock.

  4. #104
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    Oct 2008
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    Australia
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    325CI manual
    Aimed at those who can't drive (understeer). Easily fixed though

  5. #105
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    2003 330ci
    Couldn't find bmw.work, but bimmer.work is a VIN decoding website. My car came with M Sports Package li and M Lt/aly Wheels,

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hellmet View Post
    Couldn't find bmw.work, but bimmer.work is a VIN decoding website. My car came with M Sports Package li and M Lt/aly Wheels,
    Sorry about the wrong link. Glad you found the right link and you were able to get the info.

  7. #107
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    2003 330ci
    Hey guys I haven't posted in a while as life has been seriously getting in the way.

    I changed out the lower steering column this morning but it made no difference. I still have a knocking noise when moving the steering wheel from side to side with the engine off. Whether this has anything to do with the bump steer or not I don't know. It's coming from the rack/universal joint/steering column area, but I can't pinpoint it as no noise is present with the wheels off the ground and I have no ramps. It's strange as the rack is reconditioned, the universal joint is new and the steering column is in perfect condition. I'll be taking the car to an indy next week to check it out.

    On another note, I have a new symptom that's been making itself apparent in the last couple of weeks. When manoeuvring at low speed or stopped (parking), my steering occasionally goes momentarily heavy, which if I'm not mistaken would be caused by either the belt slipping, or the PS pump failing. The belt looks ok. I remember reading somewhere that a bad PS pump could cause excessive tramlining, bump steer and the steering to not centre properly after turning, all of which my car has. Apart from this occasional stiffness, my pump doesn't show any other concrete signs of failure and it doesn't growl or make any noise.

    If someone can confirm that a failing pump could in fact cause these symptoms, I will look into changing mine with a second hand unit and see if there's any difference.

    Rob.

  8. #108
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    Well I took the car to the garage this morning and the mechanic is confident that the knocking noise is coming from the rack (which is reconditioned and still under warranty) but there is no play anywhere in the steering and it shouldn't be of any concern.

    As the entire suspension and rack/column is in pretty much perfect condition I am now leaning towards the pump, especially now that it is showing some symptoms of failure, mostly while parking. It is intermittently going stiffer as I manoeuvre the car. As the steering is also very light around center while driving maybe it is 'overboosted' as @Dhurley mentioned at some point in this thread and making any road surface change apparent through the steering wheel in the form of 'bump steer/wheel jerking' or tramlining.

    Does this seem like a viable possibility?

    I am going to do some reading up on all the issues I can find relating to the ps pump to see if it's a viable option. I just don't want to throw any money around without being certain first.

    Rob.


    EDIT: I've just checked on realOEM and unless the PO has changed anything I have the LUK LF-20 pump. I see these are more prone to failing but have better feel. I have found a thread or two saying that a new ps pump resolved their 'bump steer' issue but I can't find a great deal of information yet.
    Last edited by Hellmet; 06-30-2016 at 07:42 AM.

  9. #109
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    Not an update but a request:

    I have researched a LOT over various forums and google. I have found 2 cases where replacing the power steering pump has solved the issue, and a couple of cases where replacing the LCAB's has solved the issue, one or two of which were with powerflex ones like mine. I have double checked the LCAB's and they are installed correctly, and my power steering pump is showing no obvious signs of dying (I was mistaken in my previous post. The revs were dropping a bit making the pump stiffer).

    Now for my request: Does the power steering pump 'hold' the steering straight when active?? Can anybody test this for me..... drive down a bumpy road and cut the engine to see if the ps pump actually aids in keeping the wheel straight? I can't see any other way that the issue could be solved by changing the pump.



    Thanks,
    Rob.
    Last edited by Hellmet; 08-05-2016 at 06:29 AM.

  10. #110
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    monterey, ca.
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    e21, e30 m3. e46 330ci
    of course it doesn't, it's the caster that hold the wheels straight.
    Tom D

    77 e21 - m42
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  11. #111
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    The front end geometry and centrifugal force holds them straight. The pump doesnt care if the wheels are straight or turned.

  12. #112
    Join Date
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    Golden Horseshoe, Ontario
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    e36 - 1998 323is
    I noticed you have koni fsd and new sway bar links.
    Are the links stock length or the shorter ones from e36 m3 fitment?
    Does it feel like the suspension a little stiff?

  13. #113
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    Ok thanks. I had to ask as I found a couple of threads saying a new ps pump solved the issue.

    AFAIK the end links are for the e46 , I had no fitment problems and the suspension feels about as stiff as stock with normal driving.

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  14. #114
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    Sway bar links.
    This is something you should look into. With koni fsd the distance between mointing holes is shorter, due to sorter over all lengh of the strut. When installing stock sway links this will effectively push the sway bar down and out of normal traveling range, hence creating undesired suspension feel. E36 m3 links shorter and put the sway bar back into the stock e46 travel range. I bet this is root cause of your issue.

    With wheels on the ground, your sway bar is pointing way down, where it is suppose to be moreless parallel to the ground. E36 m3 put things back in order.

    Look into this, seriously.
    1998 323is - m50 intake manifold / 328is exhaust / Shark Injector


  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr ilia View Post
    Sway bar links.
    This is something you should look into. With koni fsd the distance between mointing holes is shorter, due to sorter over all lengh of the strut. When installing stock sway links this will effectively push the sway bar down and out of normal traveling range, hence creating undesired suspension feel. E36 m3 links shorter and put the sway bar back into the stock e46 travel range. I bet this is root cause of your issue.

    With wheels on the ground, your sway bar is pointing way down, where it is suppose to be moreless parallel to the ground. E36 m3 put things back in order.

    Look into this, seriously.

    Ok i've been looking into this and can't find a lot of information. I will check your theory by disconnecting the end links and going for a drive up my road.

  16. #116
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    Ok well I just disconnected the end links and went for a short drive and tbh it feels pretty much the same (steering jerk wise). The road by my house is pretty bumpy and the steering wheel still jerk a lot and tries to drag me off into the ditch at the side.


    Dammit, I was really hoping it would work!

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  17. #117
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    Mine drives perfect on regular American roads, but I will say that it does NOT like roads that have a lot of curvature from the divider to ditch. But neither does my F150.

  18. #118
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    I've driven a shit ton of cars and I just don't remember ever driving one that responded to bumps in such an exaggerated manner. My old E36 328i w/sport package didn't have this problem, and I drove it on the same roads, Anyway, I'm gonna go re-install these end links and take note of the sway bar position in case I need shorter ones like Mr Ilia mentioned.

    Im going to triple check that everything is torqued up and then at some point I'll probably fit rubber LCAB's, hopefully they'll at least dampen the problem a bit.

    I give up on this now.
    Last edited by Hellmet; 08-09-2016 at 01:44 PM.

  19. #119
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    Ok, I had another play around under the car while re-attaching the sway bar links and this is the only noise I can make happen. I'm not sure how normal this is as the rack is reaching the end of it's travel, but there appears to be looseness as the column moves back and forth. If I twist the column with my hand the wheels move and I can't feel any looseness though.




  20. #120
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    I was going to read back through your thread but it is too much. I am curious of the issue as well. Is there a dead spot in the center of the wheel? When the car bump steers does the wheel also tightly follow?

    I am sure you have been reading many threads out there on this type of issue. This one seemed interesting: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=470103

    Definitely check out page 4 the 2nd to last post.
    Last edited by charter21p5; 08-09-2016 at 05:48 PM.
    _________

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    1985 535i - 1985-06 - Delphin Metallic - Sold in 2016
    1983 320i - 1982-09 - Kashmir Metallic - Currently own!
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    2000 M5 - 2000-02 Titanium Silver - Currently own!

  21. #121
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    Hey, there's no noticable dead spot but the steering is definitely lighter for the first couple of degrees off center. I also get the clunk like the one in the video I posted if I move the wheel back and forth with the engine off and the car on the ground.

    I have seen that thread but not the final post as the steering coupling seems to have been posted as the solution in the first post. The final post looks interesting though, I will have a further read through the thread and see if symptoms are similar. Thanks.



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    Last edited by Hellmet; 08-09-2016 at 05:54 PM.

  22. #122
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    OK little update: I changed out the powerflex LCAB's with rubber units, which upon installation clearly have a lot more flex and cushioning than the powerflex versions. While driving though, I honestly cannot notice any difference whatsoever, any slight imperfection still knocks my steering wheel about.

  23. #123
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    Hi Hellmet,

    Did you ever solve your issue ?

    I have the same problem with my E46 328i. I have replaced EVERYTHING and I still have tram-lining / bump handling issues ..
    The only thing I hav enot changed is subframes and rear subframe bushes. Can this be it ? I just can't think that it would make such a big handling problem.

  24. #124
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    tires and/or alignment issue are usually what cause tram-lining
    Current:

    - 09 335i MSport, FBO.
    - 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
    - 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
    - 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
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    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by legoman67 View Post
    tires and/or alignment issue are usually what cause tram-lining
    I have new control arms, shocks, springs (H&R), LCAB bushes (poly), RTAB (poly), anti-swaybar & bushes (from M3), shock mounts, brakes, tyres, and I've had an allignment 3 days ago. The rear subframe has been welded where it normally tears.

    Still my car feels completely out of control in a straight line, especially with wind very hard to keep straight .. honestly don't understand what it can be anymore .. replaced basically everything.

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