Z3 remote door lock aftermarket install

[zellamay]

Thank you for taking time to reply. I've pretty much switched wires around on that connector and not found anything that makes the locks respond. It makes me wonder if jumper wires need to be connected. From what I can gather it should be just the hots and a ground and one wire to lock and another to unlock but that doesn't seem to do anything. I feel like taking a hot wire and using it like a probe until I find a wire that activates a lock. Something should make it work in that connector. My probe idea is OK there 'cause I know where the grounds are. At the purple connector some talk about it is more of a game of Russian Roulette hoping to find a lock wire before I short to ground and have to wonder where the fuse is that I just blew. Thanx again...I will figure it out...gary...

Right. That's what I meant. Use a live wire to find the lock and unlock wires. Fuses are easy to find, probably in the engine bay fuse box.
In case you don't already have this, here is an electrical manual: http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[garygj10]

Hello again,
So the cheapo eBay key-less remote locks and unlocks the doors and trunk on my 2001 z3 just fine. It will not lock the fuel door. The key in the door or trunk locks the doors, trunk and fuel door just fine. Also if the car is locked with the key in the door the remote will not unlock the car until I press the lock button on the remote and then the unlock button. I'm gonna guess that the key is double locking so everything gets locked and the cheapo remote is only single locking which leaves the fuel door unlocked. Does anyone have a fix so that the remote will lock everything including the fuel door.
Thank you in advance,
...gary...

UPDATE: I think this is the answer...Hope it works. Hope it helps...gary...

http://www.understeer.com/doublelock.shtml

[me77]

The hazard light input is switched to ground (connect to ground for a short moment -> hazards flash, connect to ground continuously -> hazards flash and high-beams flash, panic button behavior). The ignition input is not going to start the engine but most likely be powered as soon as the key is in the ignition and/or turned on. Use a multimeter to figure all that out before you wire everything up permanently.

[HDW]

I deleted my message that I posted 8/10/19 by mistake so here it is again:

I am getting ready to wire this into a 98 M Z3 and was wondering about a few things:
1. what battery does the remote use?
2. anyone hook up the brown wire to pin 8 (hazard light)?
3. and how about the engine start input to pin 2 (ignition)?
4. lastly, did the double diode wiring mentioned in the post above do the trick as far as locking the fuel door?

I used a CR2032 battery successfully in the remote. I hooked up everything using zellamay's description and I now have lock/unlock. (There is no trunk release or fuel door locking on my 98 M Z3)

I would like to see if I can get alarm function out of this "cheapo ebay" unit. Has anybody hooked up the horn wire and did that work. And I still don't understand what the ignition wire does.

[jooobie]

I’m sorry for digging such a old thread back alive. But I’m running into a problem installation the same cheap aftermarket set up everyone is using. I triple checks all the wiring and made sure I tapped it into the correct wires. However, the door will not lock and unlock. Can anyone one chime in what I can do next? I checked all my wiring with a light tester to make sure the unit is functioning correctly and it seems to check out. Is there any other places I could tapped into for unlock and lock? Thanks in advanced