Z3 remote door lock aftermarket install

[zellamay]

Somebody either help me or shoot me. I've been searching and reading, and I can't find out answers to some simple questions. I bought an aftermarket remote door lock unit, with 2 fobs, and a wiring harness. It seems that the colors are the same as the colors in my Z3 harness: orange, white, yellow, orange/black, white/black, yellow/black, with red+ and black-, and 2 brown direction light wires. But, where in the heck do I find these wires in the car??? I've pulled the glovebox, looked at all kinds of pictures on the internet (there are plenty, but none specifically of a z3). I don't want to just start taking things apart, hoping I'll find it. Anyone got a picture???? thanks....

[Muzz258]

Hi

What year and model is your Z3? Different years have different wiring harnesses.

They alarm systems interface with the body electronic control module (General module 4 or ZKE iv depending on the drawing) and the remote control module. The ZKE iv lives behind the glove box and is a wide multi connector module. Older cars are wired for an Alpine alarm system which slots into a space near the ZKE iv. Newer models use the ZKE iv as the alarm module (my 2000 2.0L is like this). I have not yet had to look for the remote control module, so can't help with that one.

Photo shows the ZKE iv in the top slot behind the glove box. It's the one with the black, purple and green connectors. There is also a connector on the other side. This is a RHD car but you will have a similar view on your LHD car behind the glove box.
DSC_0093.jpg

Hope this helps

Regards

Muzz

[kungfooren]

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...3-Alarm-system
Check out post #8. You're looking for a 12-pin connector. It might be behind some stuff.

[zellamay]

Mine is a 1997 2.8 manual, U.S.A.

[rf900rkw]

If your car didn't come with an alarm, the plug will be taped to the wiring loom behind the glovebox. It will be towards the firewall,high between the rack of computers and the heater box. And usually around the front of the loom. Seeing it is ni impossible, getting at it to cut the tape is an exercise.

[zellamay]

You are right. I found it thanks to the picture #8, that kungfooren told me about. Now I have to decode the colors. Anyone know where to see a schematic?

[Vinci]

Not every aftermarket keyless system needs to be tapped into the harness. Why not just return what you have and get something that plugs straight into the factory harness? It saves you the trouble of hacking up your factory wiring and reduces the job down to ~30 minutes.

I don't know all of the brands that have models like this, but Stellar does (bmw45p). I have had one installed for over 10 years now and haven't even needed to change the remote battery. It has been flawless.

[zellamay]

Well, I got it in and working. Thank you to all who helped. I didn't have to hack into the wiring. I simply put female connectors on the wire ends of the harness that came with the unit, and plugged them onto the correct male connectors in the existing plug. The unit, with 2 nice remotes, cost about $16. The drawback is that it came with really poor instructions. It depends on how you feel about your time. When I was working, it would have been worth $100 or so to avoid the hassle, but now that I'm retired, I think of money and time differently.

[djb2]

Only $16?

Buy another, just for the remotes.

I installed the Ungo 9300 when my Z3 was new. It had been a great system. The only drawback is that if a remote breaks it is expensive-to-impossible to buy replacements.

I don't know if it's still available, but the 'Euro' alarm LED module 65-75-2-491-479 looks far nicer than the clunky LED-with-bezel that dealers installed.

[workhurts]

So what the best remote door lock/unlock alarm combo these days for a plug and play systems that plays nice with a 2000M?

[robb1887]

I missed your thread Monday, but for others reading:

Check out this: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...stallation-DIY

And you asked about the Pin outs for the plug:
the pin out for the plug is:

Pin # Function
1 hot-at-all-times
2 ignition 12VDC
3 chassis ground
4 (-) driver's door trigger
5 (-) passenger's door
6 (-) rear door trigger (not applicable)
7 (+) siren
8 (+) parking lights
9 (+) lock (positive pulse)
10 (+) unlock (positive pulse)
11 (-) trunk trigger
12 supervised lighting (not applicable)

[mdk90274]

Well, I got it in and working. Thank you to all who helped. I didn't have to hack into the wiring. I simply put female connectors on the wire ends of the harness that came with the unit, and plugged them onto the correct male connectors in the existing plug. The unit, with 2 nice remotes, cost about $16. The drawback is that it came with really poor instructions. It depends on how you feel about your time. When I was working, it would have been worth $100 or so to avoid the hassle, but now that I'm retired, I think of money and time differently.

Hi,
I bought a similar power lock unit around $20, which has poor instruction. Attached is Z3 wire diagram I found from internet. Other two are the power lock sys diagram. Can you tell me what you mean by “plugged them onto the correct male connectors in the existing plug”? I need some clarification on “correct connectors” and “existing plug”.
I have 2000 Z3 2.3L.
Thanks.

[RedRedZ]

An old DIY that may be helpful
http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/book/book.html

http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/book/scheme.html

[zellamay]

Hi,
I bought a similar power lock unit around $20, which has poor instruction. Attached is Z3 wire diagram I found from internet. Other two are the power lock sys diagram. Can you tell me what you mean by “plugged them onto the correct male connectors in the existing plug”? I need some clarification on “correct connectors” and “existing plug”.
I have 2000 Z3 2.3L.
Thanks.

Good Lord, your instructions look worse than mine did. The looks are similar, and the sequence from Orange to Yellow/Black is identical to mine. I was able to figure out that Z3 is a "positive trigger" system. (Now it get weird : my "positive trigger" diagram looks like your "negative trigger" diagram. In other words: white and white/black are reversed. If you get them wrong, it will lock when you push unlock, and you can just reverse those two wires. So I would use your "B" diagram) My instructions told me what to do with that info: dont' use Orange or Orange-Black. White attaches to the "Lock" wire (Gn/Wh on my 1997Z3). White/Black attaches to the "Unlock" wire (Blue/Red on my 1997Z3). Red, Yellow, and Yellow/Black attaches to +12v (Red/White on my 97Z3). And Black to Gnd (Black on my 97Z3) After you find the existing plug behind the glovebox, (page 7100.0-00 in the electrical manual) it shouldn't be too hard to find pin locations. How you splice into existing wires is up to you. Sorry, it's been too long for me to tell you any better than this without having it in front of me.

[mdk90274]

Good Lord, your instructions look worse than mine did. The looks are similar, and the sequence from Orange to Yellow/Black is identical to mine. I was able to figure out that Z3 is a "positive trigger" system. (Now it get weird : my "positive trigger" diagram looks like your "negative trigger" diagram. In other words: white and white/black are reversed. If you get them wrong, it will lock when you push unlock, and you can just reverse those two wires. So I would use your "B" diagram) My instructions told me what to do with that info: dont' use Orange or Orange-Black. White attaches to the "Lock" wire (Gn/Wh on my 1997Z3). White/Black attaches to the "Unlock" wire (Blue/Red on my 1997Z3). Red, Yellow, and Yellow/Black attaches to +12v (Red/White on my 97Z3). And Black to Gnd (Black on my 97Z3) After you find the existing plug behind the glovebox, (page 7100.0-00 in the electrical manual) it shouldn't be too hard to find pin locations. How you splice into existing wires is up to you. Sorry, it's been too long for me to tell you any better than this without having it in front of me.

Zellamay and RedRedZ,
Thanks for your quick responses.

From the picture by Muzz258, Is the black connector the same 12 pin connector diagram by robb1887? I suppose pin 9 and 10 are what I need for lock n unlock, right? I don’t have alarm.
Also, is there any way you can show me the page 7100.0-00 of the electrical manual? I do not have the same manual you are referring to.
Thanks a lot.

[zellamay]

my notes say 1 is lock and 9 is unlock. This agrees with manual page 5126.0-02. I don't know if your year is different.
here is the whole manual, for your reading pleasure: http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[Jakechan]

I just did this, look at the pic Muzz258 posted above, the ZKE unit purple plug. Lock and unlock positive pulse connect to that purple plug.

[mdk90274]

I just did this, look at the pic Muzz258 posted above, the ZKE unit purple plug. Lock and unlock positive pulse connect to that purple plug.

Hi, Jakechan,

From the manual, the purple plug (X13253) is 26 pin connector sitting in between Black (X13252, 15 pin) and Green (X13254, 26 pin) connectors from Muzz258 picture. Can you tell me which pin is for lock and unlock for Purple Connector? If you see my Z3 electrical diagram above, the purple connector (x13253) is at the lower part of diagram. Manual also says the pins from Purple connectors are Inputs, and from Black (X13252) connectors are Output. Does this means positive (output) and negative (Input)? or vice versa? Thanks

[Jakechan]

Hi, Jakechan,

From the manual, the purple plug (X13253) is 26 pin connector sitting in between Black (X13252, 15 pin) and Green (X13254, 26 pin) connectors from Muzz258 picture. Can you tell me which pin is for lock and unlock for Purple Connector? If you see my Z3 electrical diagram above, the purple connector (x13253) is at the lower part of diagram. Manual also says the pins from Purple connectors are Inputs, and from Black (X13252) connectors are Output. Does this means positive (output) and negative (Input)? or vice versa? Thanks

Attached is the connector we are talking about, the purple one. The purple plug does in fact have inputs, receiving signals from the car, in this case a +12v lock or unlock signal FROM your remote unit, INTO the purple plug.
I spliced my LOCK signal from the remote to the wire at PIN #17 (white, red, yellow), and the UNLOCK signal from the remote unit to PIN #4 (Blue, red, yellow).
These colours and connections are for 2002 Z3, I'm not sure if all are the same.

[mdk90274]

Attached is the connector we are talking about, the purple one. The purple plug does in fact have inputs, receiving signals from the car, in this case a +12v lock or unlock signal FROM your remote unit, INTO the purple plug.
I spliced my LOCK signal from the remote to the wire at PIN #17 (white, red, yellow), and the UNLOCK signal from the remote unit to PIN #4 (Blue, red, yellow).
These colours and connections are for 2002 Z3, I'm not sure if all are the same.

JackChan,

I have 2000 Z3 so the pins are not the same. It is the the same purple connector but mine is pin# 1 for unlock and #14 for lock on the driver side lock. I think I know what to do now.

Thank you everyone who helped me to figure out and identify the connector and pin.

[GunStar]

Hello.
Dont know if all Z3 are the same...but I have successfully done an original remote lock retrofit to my German sold 10/99 roadster.
My car didn’t have either remote lock or alarm so I did some research and found out that my car is prewired for all this.

In my car the GM (ZKE) IV module is controlling both remote lock and alarm so all wires go from there to various places in the car.
For remote lock I found out that there is a connector (X1143) hidden above pedals at driver side. You need to remove panels above pedals and under steering wheel. Taped up around a cable harness, where you see some relays at the left hand wall, is the connector X1143.
I bought a used remote rear view mirror with the cable harness intact from ebay, not easy to find.
But you can also buy the mirror cable harness new from BMW, partnr: 61108407823 for cars made from 05/97 and partnr: 61128401352 up to 04/97. For my 10/99 the price was 13€.
I run the cable from the mirror and down the A-pillar at driver side and connected it to X1143.
I also bought a new uncut key from ebay with the remote chip inside and coded it to the car, just like an original key.
And hey...it worked perfectly right away.

As my car is european I bought mirror and keys with 433 mhz frequency. I think it is 315 mhz for US cars.
All was done just like in an original car.
I got the new key cut at a local locksmith and removed the little black starter ID44 chip from an old key and placed it inside the new key.
I hope this will work with your cars as well.

[garygj10]

Well, I got it in and working. Thank you to all who helped. I didn't have to hack into the wiring. I simply put female connectors on the wire ends of the harness that came with the unit, and plugged them onto the correct male connectors in the existing plug. The unit, with 2 nice remotes, cost about $16. The drawback is that it came with really poor instructions. It depends on how you feel about your time. When I was working, it would have been worth $100 or so to avoid the hassle, but now that I'm retired, I think of money and time differently.

I bought a $12 dollar key less entry. I connected red wire with yellow and yellow black to pin #1 hot. Black to pin #3 ground. Brown to pin #8 lights. White to pin#9 lock and white/black to pin #10 unlock. The unit clicks but the lights and locks do nothing. I tried grounding pins #4 & #5 but still nothing. Did I miss something? If zellamay or anyone else could give me the exact wire from cheepo unit to 2001 z3 connector or tell me what I am doing wrong I'd be very grateful. Thanx, ...gary...

[zellamay]

I bought a $12 dollar key less entry. I connected red wire with yellow and yellow black to pin #1 hot. Black to pin #3 ground. Brown to pin #8 lights. White to pin#9 lock and white/black to pin #10 unlock. The unit clicks but the lights and locks do nothing. I tried grounding pins #4 & #5 but still nothing. Did I miss something? If zellamay or anyone else could give me the exact wire from cheepo unit to 2001 z3 connector or tell me what I am doing wrong I'd be very grateful. Thanx, ...gary...

My notes say what you say. But I don't have pin numbers on that sheet (mine would be different anyway).
My notes: +12v is REMOTE: red/yel/yel/blk , CAR: red/white ............. Lock is REMOTE: white , CAR: Gn/white .......... Unlock is REMOTE:White/blk , CAR: blue/red ............ Gnd is Blk on car and remote
Some thoughts:
Your schematic may not be accurate. You may have to do some prodding to find the "lock" and "unlock" wires on the car.
My poor memory says there is some trickery involved to get it to work, like doing it several times, or lock/unlock with key in door, then try again. Sorry I don't remember exactly.

hope this helps

[bubbafett]

as an added bonus dont forget to tell your insurance company, most give a discount for a passive car alarm system. I think I save like $25-$30 a year....

[garygj10]

Thank you for taking time to reply. I've pretty much switched wires around on that connector and not found anything that makes the locks respond. It makes me wonder if jumper wires need to be connected. From what I can gather it should be just the hots and a ground and one wire to lock and another to unlock but that doesn't seem to do anything. I feel like taking a hot wire and using it like a probe until I find a wire that activates a lock. Something should make it work in that connector. My probe idea is OK there 'cause I know where the grounds are. At the purple connector some talk about it is more of a game of Russian Roulette hoping to find a lock wire before I short to ground and have to wonder where the fuse is that I just blew. Thanx again...I will figure it out...gary...

Follow up...Well I'm feeling pretty stupid right now. Today I tried closing the doors and they lock and unlock just fine as does the trunk. It won't work with the doors open...Duuuuhhhh!!! For some reason unknown to me the fuel door does not lock with the remote even though it does with the key??? Also brown wires to pin #8 didn't make the parking lights flash. At this point I don't think I care as long as the trunk and doors work with the remote.

I am also retired but that probably doesn't matter either as we're not sure my time ever was worth anything. The only useful thing I learned in college is that if you stand in line long enough they get tired of seeing you there and give you what you want better know as don't give up 'till it works... Thanx for the support...gary...