For those of you with a CF hood...

[JPR10]

Just installed mine over the weekend... I know I'm not able to use stock hood shocks as they are meant for the OEM steel hood, and will likely warp the CF hood.

What do you guys use for hood shocks (if any?) -- I hear that using an E46 M3 hood shock works as their hood is aluminum.

As far as the spacer goes, between the mounting brackets/hood -- are those required? I didn't reinstall mine with them.

Also -- what do you guys do to install your roundel? Is it safe to drill here?



Lastly -- One of the washer nozzles doesn't fit in all the way... What is the best way to get it in? I was thinking of taking a dremel/file to trim down the plastic... your thoughts?



Other than that -- I'm very happy with how the hood fits!



It's a SEIBON hood if that matters:




Let me know what you think!

JP

[AquilaBMW]

The M3 Hood Struts are the most popular choice for C/F hoods. Try to avoid drilling or using a dremel on your C/F if you can. C/F is like glass and can form cracks around your drill holes, etc.

For the Roundel, just glue it on with like Body Glue or 3M tape. It will hold and saves you drilling your hood. The washer nozzle is a bit trickier. When you apply the dremel, go against your instincts and keep it on a low speed.... or actually use a hand held file to adjust the hole. Before applying any tool to that area, put masking tape around the area to be worked on - surround that nozzle hole with masking tape. This will help prevent cracks forming as will applying slow speed.

Good Luck.

[Brickk]

im not sure if your talking about an e46 but all e46 hoods are aluminum it doesnt have to be m3

[Mless5]

Do you think you could trim down the nozzle instead of the hood opening?

[JPR10]

The M3 Hood Struts are the most popular choice for C/F hoods. Try to avoid drilling or using a dremel on your C/F if you can. C/F is like glass and can form cracks around your drill holes, etc.

For the Roundel, just glue it on with like Body Glue or 3M tape. It will hold and saves you drilling your hood. The washer nozzle is a bit trickier. When you apply the dremel, go against your instincts and keep it on a low speed.... or actually use a hand held file to adjust the hole. Before applying any tool to that area, put masking tape around the area to be worked on - surround that nozzle hole with masking tape. This will help prevent cracks forming as will applying slow speed.

Good Luck.

Thanks, yeah I'm trying to avoid touching the CF when at all possible. Thanks for the tips for the dremel. What should I do with the little nubs on the back of the roundel? I was thinking of taking cutters, and then filing them down by hand... What is body glue?

As for the nozzle, I understand. I think I might just file by hand until it goes in... Better safe than sorry.

im not sure if your talking about an e46 but all e46 hoods are aluminum it doesnt have to be m3

For sure... Do you or anyone you know have experience using the E46 hood shocks w/ a CF hood, that can attest to it?

Do you think you could trim down the nozzle instead of the hood opening?

Yep, had planned to hit the plastic on the nozzle, not the hood itself.

[AquilaBMW]

I have a C/F hood on my car and I just snipped the stubs on the back of my roundel. I did not even bother with filing them down as they won't touch the surface of the hood once they are snipped.

I like Mless5's idea. Would like to see how that works out - please update once you get it in. Also.... a full picture of the hood on the car would be nice.

[JPR10]

I have a C/F hood on my car and I just snipped the stubs on the back of my roundel. I did not even bother with filing them down as they won't touch the surface of the hood once they are snipped.

I like Mless5's idea. Would like to see how that works out - please update once you get it in. Also.... a full picture of the hood on the car would be nice.

Yeah, I was thinking about snipping the back as well -- how did you apply it to the hood? I want to be able to replace it (and not damage the hood) in the future when the roundel needs to go...

Also -- will update you on the nozzle situation. I will file/sand to get it in for the time being, but I actually need to refurbish/replace 1 nozzle and the lines since I broke the shit out of those, removing them from the old hood haha...

Here's a full pic of the hood. Don't mind the 4x4 right now haha. Suspension/wheels to be installed soon -- just sitting in my garage waiting.

[Mless5]

3M VHB take should do the trick. You will have to shave down posts on the emblem.

[JPR10]

3M VHB take should do the trick. You will have to shave down posts on the emblem.

sure figured as much. What about how it contours? The emblem slightly concaves upwards -- what do you recommend I do there?

[Brickk]

Yeah, I was thinking about snipping the back as well -- how did you apply it to the hood? I want to be able to replace it (and not damage the hood) in the future when the roundel needs to go...

Also -- will update you on the nozzle situation. I will file/sand to get it in for the time being, but I actually need to refurbish/replace 1 nozzle and the lines since I broke the shit out of those, removing them from the old hood haha...

Here's a full pic of the hood. Don't mind the 4x4 right now haha. Suspension/wheels to be installed soon -- just sitting in my garage waiting.

ah okay your car is a 5 series I'm not sure if your oem hood is aluminum or not but I know for a fact that the e46 oem hood is! I dont
actually know anyone with a c/f hood but I have been looking into getting myself the carbon e46 GTR hood and Ive heard you can use the stock e46 pins but they recommend having aftermarket hood pins installed

[JPR10]

ah okay your car is a 5 series I'm not sure if your oem hood is aluminum or not but I know for a fact that the e46 oem hood is! I dont
actually know anyone with a c/f hood but I have been looking into getting myself the carbon e46 GTR hood and Ive heard you can use the stock e46 pins but they recommend having aftermarket hood pins installed

Yeah. I'm not sure if I'm going to buy the E46 hood shocks until I hear from someone who has used them before... Anyone out there?

Also -- most aftermarket cf hood manufacturers say that hood pins are required from a legal/safety standpoint.

[Brickk]

Yeah. I'm not sure if I'm going to buy the E46 hood shocks until I hear from someone who has used them before... Anyone out there?

Also -- most aftermarket cf hood manufacturers say that hood pins are required from a legal/safety standpoint.

yes sorry this is what I was getting at, sorry I didnt realize I didnt post the end of my sentence xD the hoodpins are just an extra saftey feature to keep the hood down because it will be lighter. I was a little confused at first as I thought thats what you where worried about, but re reading I see your concerned with the cf warping "Q: Do you have to buy hood pins if you buy a carbon fiber hood?
A: Hood pins are not necessary when buying a carbon fiber hood if it comes with an OEM metal latch, but we do recommend them as a safety precaution. They are sold separately on our website. If the carbon fiber hood does not come with a latch, hood pins are mandatory to be able to close your hood. We always suggest buying hood pins when purchasing any light-weight hood for peace of mind; you don't want any chance of your hood flying into your windshield while you're cruising along on the highway!"
so by the sounds of it you can actually just run the hood without a latch and just install hoodpins
Dont know where you purchased your hood either but by the sounds of it, it sould have come with a latch
"Q: Do Seibon carbon fiber hoods come with a latch and bolt threads or will they have to be added to the hood?
A: All Seibon carbon hoods will come with a latch and bolt threads."
Taken from Andysautosport

[JPR10]

yes sorry this is what I was getting at, sorry I didnt realize I didnt post the end of my sentence xD the hoodpins are just an extra saftey feature to keep the hood down because it will be lighter. I was a little confused at first as I thought thats what you where worried about, but re reading I see your concerned with the cf warping "Q: Do you have to buy hood pins if you buy a carbon fiber hood?
A: Hood pins are not necessary when buying a carbon fiber hood if it comes with an OEM metal latch, but we do recommend them as a safety precaution. They are sold separately on our website. If the carbon fiber hood does not come with a latch, hood pins are mandatory to be able to close your hood. We always suggest buying hood pins when purchasing any light-weight hood for peace of mind; you don't want any chance of your hood flying into your windshield while you're cruising along on the highway!"
so by the sounds of it you can actually just run the hood without a latch and just install hoodpins
Dont know where you purchased your hood either but by the sounds of it, it sould have come with a latch
"Q: Do Seibon carbon fiber hoods come with a latch and bolt threads or will they have to be added to the hood?
A: All Seibon carbon hoods will come with a latch and bolt threads."
Taken from Andysautosport

Ahh yeah. and yes -- the stock hood struts will likely warp the hood...

Anyone else have experience using hood shocks and a CF hood? I don't want to use a hood prop...

Although SEIBON makes a pretty cool one:

[Brickk]

Ahh yeah. and yes -- the stock hood struts will likely warp the hood...

Anyone else have experience using hood shocks and a CF hood? I don't want to use a hood prop...

Although SEIBON makes a pretty cool one:

My understanding of "latch and bolt thread" is essentially exactly what you are asking about. I dont think they are refering to a prop. IMO I'd give seibon a call and ask them about it.

[JPR10]

My understanding of "latch and bolt thread" is essentially exactly what you are asking about. I dont think they are refering to a prop. IMO I'd give seibon a call and ask them about it.

No, I do have the latch and bolt from the OEM hood. I'm asking more to keep the hood propped up... So I am looking for replacement gas shocks that aren't too strong.

The hood prop is so if I can't find shocks that are suitable for a CF hood.

[Mach540]

Go to McMaster-Carr.com

Search for Gas Springs.

All kinds of sizes and pressures available.

[Mless5]

sure figured as much. What about how it contours? The emblem slightly concaves upwards -- what do you recommend I do there?

Same 3M VHB: cut 3 pieces to shape.

[JPR10]

Go to McMaster-Carr.com

Search for Gas Springs.

All kinds of sizes and pressures available.

Hmm not sure what rates to pick... Are these universal?

- - - Updated - - -

Same 3M VHB: cut 3 pieces to shape.

Alright I'll give it a try. Just ordered some from Amazon.

[JPR10]

Ah I had another question too... This isn't unique to the E39, but just CF hoods in general...

In order for me to install my old insulation from my OEM hood, I'll need to cut into the bottom of the hood (which I don't want to do).

Is a heat shield required with a CF hood? I'd imagine CF doesn't conduct as much heat as a steel hood...

Also -- what is the best way to remove the vehicle information sticker + paint code sticker for transfer? Can I get a new one from the dealer?

[Clark49660]

My Vorsteiner double sided carbon fiber hood uses the oem latch, hinges and gas cartridges. No hood insulation. Roundel is taped in place.

[Mach540]

A few things.
First off, I do not have, nor ever had, a carbon fiber hood. I do know about composite materials, and have some experience working with gas springs, building different fixtures that have used them.
In my opinion, I do not think that you will have any problems using the stock springs, like Clark has on his car.

Why, you ask?

In the closed position, the gas spring puts very little pressure upwards on the hinge. Sure, each spring can lift 150 lbs, but it has no mechanical advantage with the hinge all folded up. If you have a hinge off the vehicle, it would be easy to see why.
The two ends of the gas spring and the pivot point of the hinge are almost in a straight line. All the force from the spring is pushing straight into the hinge, and very little is pushing it open. When the hinge starts to open, those three points form a triangle, and the force begins to be applied vertically.
Try this. Take the springs off of the hood, and feel how heavy it is when you first begin to lift it up, and compare it to how heavy it feels with the springs on it. There is not a lot of difference.
In the middle of the hood travel, the springs have the most mechanical advantage, and help to lift it. When the hood is all the way up, It doesn't need a lot of presssure to maintain its position, because most of the weight of the hood now rests on the rear most pivots.

Also, the gas spring is pushing on the metal plate of the hinge itself. If it were not attached to the metal, and instead were anchored directly to the carbon fiber, then I could see an issue there.

But if you still want to try less pressure, I would try these.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4138t55/=122hneq
They are a little longer than the stock ones, but the next size down might be too short. My recommendation only. Do your own measuring.
The stock ones are 680 Newtons. About 150 Lbs.
I don't know what the weight difference is, so you will have to judge how much lighter you can go.

[gs1999]

Cool looking!

Sent from my Z797C using Tapatalk

[JPR10]

My Vorsteiner double sided carbon fiber hood uses the oem latch, hinges and gas cartridges. No hood insulation. Roundel is taped in place.

you say double sided, as in the bottom side is CF too? Maybe it being double sided makes it strong enough for it to use original gas cartridges...

I'm using the OG latch, hinges as well.

- - - Updated - - -

Cool looking!

Sent from my Z797C using Tapatalk

Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

A few things.
First off, I do not have, nor ever had, a carbon fiber hood. I do know about composite materials, and have some experience working with gas springs, building different fixtures that have used them.
In my opinion, I do not think that you will have any problems using the stock springs, like Clark has on his car.

Why, you ask?

In the closed position, the gas spring puts very little pressure upwards on the hinge. Sure, each spring can lift 150 lbs, but it has no mechanical advantage with the hinge all folded up. If you have a hinge off the vehicle, it would be easy to see why.
The two ends of the gas spring and the pivot point of the hinge are almost in a straight line. All the force from the spring is pushing straight into the hinge, and very little is pushing it open. When the hinge starts to open, those three points form a triangle, and the force begins to be applied vertically.
Try this. Take the springs off of the hood, and feel how heavy it is when you first begin to lift it up, and compare it to how heavy it feels with the springs on it. There is not a lot of difference.
In the middle of the hood travel, the springs have the most mechanical advantage, and help to lift it. When the hood is all the way up, It doesn't need a lot of presssure to maintain its position, because most of the weight of the hood now rests on the rear most pivots.

Also, the gas spring is pushing on the metal plate of the hinge itself. If it were not attached to the metal, and instead were anchored directly to the carbon fiber, then I could see an issue there.

But if you still want to try less pressure, I would try these.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4138t55/=122hneq
They are a little longer than the stock ones, but the next size down might be too short. My recommendation only. Do your own measuring.
The stock ones are 680 Newtons. About 150 Lbs.
I don't know what the weight difference is, so you will have to judge how much lighter you can go.

Hmm that's interesting insight. Thanks for this -- maybe i'll try the stock springs to see what happens...

- - - Updated - - -

Now thinking about it though... I think you're right, in the closed position there shouldn't be a problem -- it's when the gas shock is extended, and while closing the hood -- because it's not heavy (or rigid) enough, it will apply extra pressure to the points where the hinges are attached...

[EuroV12]

Hows the fitment?

[ViolinARC]

My Vorsteiner double sided carbon fiber hood uses the oem latch, hinges and gas cartridges. No hood insulation. Roundel is taped in place.

The Vorsteiner is one of my most favorite hood upgrades...looks AWESOME!