1979 320i Daily Build

**Somjuan** · 06-02-2016, 10:55 PM

That makes entirely too much sense to post pictures! Here you go:
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

As you can see from my upside down interior and early manifold, it's a pre facelift. I already removed the rattling manifold, just planning to replace the wires more frequently to compensate.

**epmedia** · 06-03-2016, 03:22 AM

You definitely need to get a heat shield on that reactor manifold. The heat shield not only protects the plug wires, it also reduces heat on the cylinder head and valve cover gasket, etc.. You can make one if you cannot source one. I used an old PC tower case cover with some fine mesh steel screen between the shield and the reactor. Whatever you use, don't let any old paint catch fire... Grind any old paint off. Don't use galvanized steel either - unless you grind that off too. (because harmful fumes).

I may have some old PC case covers if you want one.

This is an example, from a PC tower case cover. I peened the spark plug areas of the cover...
heat-shield.jpg

**Somjuan** · 06-03-2016, 04:13 PM

Thanks Ep, noted. I'll fab one up then. The issue with mine was that the rattling was because one of the brackets on the thermal reactor fatigued over time and split. I was thinking of eventually replacing it with a e30 318 cover if it fits with the reactor. If not, I still have the old cover and can weld the bracket back on

**dups** · 06-03-2016, 10:28 PM

So, the rattling was the cover? Called it. Your car is reminding me of mine. When I first got it, I had the same rattle and Epi helped me with that. Also...mine came with that very same shifter knob! It must be a Wal-Mart special or something. It's looking good. Hopefully you will have more time than I have been able to give but, 4 years later, I've had no major issues. Best $900 I ever spent.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, no big deal, the crankcase hose should route down by the injector lines around the valve cover instead of over it. It's a tricky little snake but, it may not matter.

**Somjuan** · 06-03-2016, 10:35 PM

Alas, still rattling. I'll have it up again on Sunday, any other ideas?

Also yeah, that shifter is something! Hahaha, I'm gonna make a big red button for it since it's hollow on the inside. For the ejector seat. I also picked up a stock wooden one to refinish

**Somjuan** · 06-06-2016, 12:00 AM

Well, my buddy and I plus his friend jacked it up and found the problem was the right front caliper clip was loose. Definitely a silly mistake. No more rattling! While we were there we dropped the fuel tanks, replaced the breather hoses on the two of them, and it runs waaaay smoother now. It was variably leaning out before, so now it sounds much more healthy. Cleaned out the valve cover attachment to the PCV hose as well, it was gunked beyond reason. Smooth (and quiet!) sailing from here out.

Fun fact, took my tires in to be rebalanced and they only put back in three lugs on the front left!!!!! Bah

**Somjuan** · 06-07-2016, 12:57 AM

Well, after one day too many of 100+ degree temperatures, I felt strongly motivated to give myself heat stroke and install the '84 E30 A/C compressor, run the custom barrier hose further from the exhaust, wrapped it in thermal tape, and sealed up the system. One caveat, the clutch was engaging well on the bench but won't on the car. Instinct says a bad ground, but I'm way too exhausted to check it. Any other ideas?

Thanks for all the help!

**Tom D** · 06-07-2016, 01:05 AM

your crankcase vent hose is backwards

**epmedia** · 06-07-2016, 02:53 AM

Originally Posted by Somjuan

Well, after one day too many of 100+ degree temperatures, I felt strongly motivated to give myself heat stroke and install the '84 E30 A/C compressor, run the custom barrier hose further from the exhaust, wrapped it in thermal tape, and sealed up the system. One caveat, the clutch was engaging well on the bench but won't on the car. Instinct says a bad ground, but I'm way too exhausted to check it. Any other ideas?

Thanks for all the help!

The compressor needs a ground strap from the engine block to the compressor housing when mounted via rubber bushings. There should be a threaded hole somewhere on the compressor housing, or you'll have to improvise.

You should also clean and tighten the fuse ends and fuse holders.

Originally Posted by Tom D

your crankcase vent hose is backwards

It's easier to install backwards

**Somjuan** · 06-07-2016, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by Tom D

your crankcase vent hose is backwards

Just like me then!

Yup, I was wondering if the metal bits on the inside of the bushings were contacting metal at all. Oops.

**Somjuan** · 06-07-2016, 10:59 PM

Well, the air conditioner is charged and holding pressure, but still not receiving 12 volts from the live wire (which is black?). Traced it to a gray-black wire from the previous owner that was spliced heavily. Not sure how to procede because it's a mishmash of patch wiring from the previous owner. Anyone have pictures of the wiring?

The good news is when jumped it works perfectly

**Somjuan** · 06-10-2016, 06:20 PM

Still not pulling 12 volts out of the system and can't find a problem either! I'd love to test the diode, but I cn't find it. But, I have bigger fish to fry, a coolant hose sprang a leak, which was surprising given it was a couple months old. It was the hose from the throttle body to the intake manifold! My least favorite hose. Pulling it out, I found the stainless EGR hose next to it has ruptured and cut through the hose (!). I found the hose on realOEM, but it's unlisted except for the picture. Anyone have any idea where to find it? Here's the photo, I think it's number 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_0955

**dups** · 06-10-2016, 06:41 PM

I'm having the same problem (compressor works when powered directly). It worked before I changed out my shift/radio/ac console. I know for sure that I did not put the probe from the A/C Min/Max knob where it's supposed to go. In fact, I still don't know where it goes. I am going to assume that's my problem and I just need the motivation to do it but, silly me, I went and fixed my brakes first.

You probably know more about it than me but, just thought I would mention it.

**Somjuan** · 06-10-2016, 06:55 PM

Originally Posted by dups

You probably know more about it than me but, just thought I would mention it.

Hahahaha, not likely! Appreciate the suggestion, I'm pretty well winging it as I go

**Somjuan** · 06-12-2016, 11:10 PM

Well, I got the power issue down when I noticed the wrong wire was getting 12 volts when the switch was flipped! In the words of Homer Simpson 'DOH'.

Now it's charged but not cold. Ahhhhh. I hate air conditioning.

**Somjuan** · 06-13-2016, 11:01 AM

In further proof of my insanity, the heater valve was stuck on hot. Manually changed it by reaching down under the dash, and the pressures in the lines precipitously dropped and stabilized way below operational. Anyone who can educate me on why that is? I'm thinking the hot air was close enough to expand the refridgerant and raise system pressure

**epmedia** · 06-13-2016, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by Somjuan

Still not pulling 12 volts out of the system and can't find a problem either! I'd love to test the diode, but I cn't find it. But, I have bigger fish to fry, a coolant hose sprang a leak, which was surprising given it was a couple months old. It was the hose from the throttle body to the intake manifold! My least favorite hose. Pulling it out, I found the stainless EGR hose next to it has ruptured and cut through the hose (!). I found the hose on realOEM, but it's unlisted except for the picture. Anyone have any idea where to find it? Here's the photo, I think it's number 10.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_0955

That braided EGR hose is NLA. Probably best to find a good used one + a good EGR fllter from a member here. I mention the filter too, because the the hose may not come off the filter very easily.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by Somjuan

In further proof of my insanity, the heater valve was stuck on hot. Manually changed it by reaching down under the dash, and the pressures in the lines precipitously dropped and stabilized way below operational. Anyone who can educate me on why that is? I'm thinking the hot air was close enough to expand the refridgerant and raise system pressure

Can you please elaborate on the bolded text?

**Somjuan** · 06-13-2016, 05:14 PM

Pressure was holding at 35-40 psi low side and dropped to 5 psi stable. It's around 100 psi with the system off, there were no sounds of a blowout of refrigerant or anything

**epmedia** · 06-13-2016, 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by Somjuan

Pressure was holding at 35-40 psi low side and dropped to 5 psi stable. It's around 100 psi with the system off, there were no sounds of a blowout of refrigerant or anything

I see now, thanks. I wish I could help with the AC, but I cannot. There's a few resident AC "experts" here. If you don't get further input in this thread, I suggest making a new thread related to your AC system.

**Somjuan** · 06-13-2016, 06:30 PM

All good! Hahah, yeah, sometimes it feels like talking to a wall here, but eventually I always get an answer, and a friendly one at that. I figure if nothing else, I can help someone decide whether or not they want to go through the hassle of fixing what's likely to be an underwhelming air conditioner

**Tom D** · 06-13-2016, 11:10 PM

Originally Posted by Somjuan

....sometimes it feels like (i'm) talking to a wall here, ....

robert, you think we should feel offended?

**epmedia** · 06-13-2016, 11:42 PM

Originally Posted by Tom D

robert, you think we should feel offended?

Negative, Sir.
OP is in excellent spirits, especially considering the York AC issues at hand. I'm not sure what to recommend here, except for OP to start a new thread related to the AC dilemma.

**Somjuan** · 06-14-2016, 03:02 AM

Originally Posted by Tom D

robert, you think we should feel offended?

Far from it! You two are immensely helpful. Probably could have phrased that better, I meant more like I tend to sit here in my thread and rant to myself and occasionally someone pops in while I'm obsessing on it and makes perfect sense of the situation.

**Somjuan** · 06-17-2016, 02:46 PM

Well, the AC compressor blew a seal under the low pressure line so I've been putting off fixing that (worst compressor to pull ever) until Sunday. In the meantime I picked up a oem Bosch copper points distributor cap and a rotor and cracked open my distributor for the first time. Turns out the old cap was aluminum and rather corroded. On top of that, there was a wire that actually wasn't attached anymore which looked to be affiliated with the vacuum advance. So I dragged out my woefully inadequate soldering iron and spent the next hour fixing that and the ignition coil wires. Now the car starts more reliably from cold than my old ford taurus before this! And as a bonus, I thought I was chasing a rich running issue before, but with the rewiring, going into neutral no longer bogs the engine. Feeling pretty good. Trunk rust is next, there's just a little, but I've been putting it off. Pictures below for reference

**Thecatmilton** · 06-17-2016, 08:03 PM

Please make an A/C thread so it will be easier for me to help you. I think you can get a sanden compressor with a v belt pully off of a ford festiva. I intend to do this for my blue 320i.