E36 Hater's Phase 3, AKA what's a budget build?

[E36 HateR]

[Bke36Is]

Nice! Whens dyno day?

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[E36 HateR]

Nice! Whens dyno day?

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Wont be able to tune it in time, a few differences but i think it will be okay, if its a little lean at 30psi ill just add 5 to 7 psi at the rail.

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Actually i just spoke with my tuner, he said it should be fine,if anything I can bump the fuel pressure a little to be safe but it should only be lean on spool up if theres a dramatic difference.

[familyMAN]

What turbine housing are you running?

[E36 HateR]

T3 .70ar bep housing, sane as before.

[tyr283]

T3 .70ar bep housing, sane as before.

Isn't that choking the turbo up top? Seems like a really small housing for so much turbo

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[Mod Addict]

Will be interested to see if you get boost creep going this route. My 3" worked great. 4" turbo back creeps even w/ two Tial 44mm.

Same here.
I've seen this creep issue on a few cars in my area as well with the 4in exhaust.

[someguy2800]

Same here.
I've seen this creep issue on a few cars in my area as well with the 4in exhaust.

Its all in the wastegate geometry. Below is a datalog of my car in 3rd and 4th on the drag strip up to 140. 4 inch exhaust with a straight through race muffler and a single 44mm gate, open dump. The boost control is open loop so nothing but the gate is controlling boost.

[Butters Stoch]

Here is my WG routing.
I has no creeps

[Bke36Is]

I wonder what this would look like on a top mount setup, poking outta the hood n chit!

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[chikinhed]

My Steedspeed has no creep

Only 3.5" exhaust though.

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[Da Infammus 1]

Its all in the wastegate geometry. Below is a datalog of my car in 3rd and 4th on the drag strip up to 140. 4 inch exhaust with a straight through race muffler and a single 44mm gate, open dump. The boost control is open loop so nothing but the gate is controlling boost.

Holy bejesus, what manifold is that?!

[someguy2800]

Here is my WG routing.
I has no creeps

I think that's an awesome idea. I would do the same on a bottom mount

[pbonsalb]

I think that's an awesome idea. I would do the same on a bottom mount

What is the height of an uncut head? I'd like to try to measure how much mine has been cut. Last resurface barely nicked a valve so I am guessing over 0.020.

[someguy2800]

Holy bejesus, what manifold is that?!

I made it.

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What is the height of an uncut head? I'd like to try to measure how much mine has been cut. Last resurface barely nicked a valve so I am guessing over 0.020.

140mm

[5mall5nail5]

Jon, do you have your WGs recirculated on the setup that creeps, or are they dumped to the atmosphere?

Sorry for delayed reply - they're dumped. I can't feasibly tie them in with the steering linkage and such in the way. I'd have to re-work my turbo manifold. That will be my next project for my next engine - new manifold with boost control as a priority.

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Here is my WG routing.
I has no creeps

I considered this back when dealing with creep - the prob is, unless you have a stainless turbine housing, the flange will eventually crack and break off. Not might. Will.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I considered this back when dealing with creep - the prob is, unless you have a stainless turbine housing, the flange will eventually crack and break off. Not might. Will.

This mod isn't uncommon... I think depending on use case, might is still the better word here you simply cannot say with 100% certainty that it will crack and break off every single time.

And there are stainless housing options out there (Tial, BW) so there's that as well.

[5mall5nail5]

This mod isn't uncommon... I think depending on use case, might is still the better word here you simply cannot say with 100% certainty that it will crack and break off every single time.

And there are stainless housing options out there (Tial, BW) so there's that as well.

Its more uncommon than it is common. I researched it heavily. It's most common in Sweden/etc. and when I asked around there were people saying to avoid it as they've had issues. The guys that didn't mind the risk are mostly in Sweden as well, and they tend to not mind because they pull engines out of chassis each year and swap in stockers for inspection/MOT/etc. So, just a heads up. I'm all for easy and effective but welding to a cast housing induces a potential headache.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Its more uncommon than it is common. I researched it heavily. It's most common in Sweden/etc. and when I asked around there were people saying to avoid it as they've had issues. The guys that didn't mind the risk are mostly in Sweden as well, and they tend to not mind because they pull engines out of chassis each year and swap in stockers for inspection/MOT/etc. So, just a heads up. I'm all for easy and effective but welding to a cast housing induces a potential headache.

I've seen it done here enough times... that said, I still don't think you can say with absolute certainty that it will crack. But you should certainly be aware that it could and in a bottom mount setup be ready to deal with the (potential) issue. For sure going w/ a stainless housing would be the right way to do it though.

[tptrsn]

While we're on this (off)-topic, would 309 filler be best for welding onto a cast housing?

[Garett]

[QUOTE=E36 HateR;29313167]

Seems Legit!

Shes going to be a screamer lol

image.jpeg

[GT35Rm3]

I considered this back when dealing with creep - the prob is, unless you have a stainless turbine housing, the flange will eventually crack and break off. Not might. Will.

When welded properly, they will not crack. Maximum psi has 40 or so e46 kits running with that same set up. They have had some SS manifolds crack even with proper penetration and back purging, but from my last discussions with Mike, I do not believe they have had any issues with the modified turbines. It's all in the preparation, material selection, rod selection, and penetration. Pre heat the cast iron (I forget the proper temp), weld this to a carbon steel pipe with the right filler metal, then weld the carbon steel pipe to the stainless steel wastegate flange with the right filler metal. Done.

[M3turboE36]

I've seen it done here enough times... that said, I still don't think you can say with absolute certainty that it will crack. But you should certainly be aware that it could and in a bottom mount setup be ready to deal with the (potential) issue. For sure going w/ a stainless housing would be the right way to do it though.

Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

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I've seen it done here enough times... that said, I still don't think you can say with absolute certainty that it will crack. But you should certainly be aware that it could and in a bottom mount setup be ready to deal with the (potential) issue. For sure going w/ a stainless housing would be the right way to do it though.

Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

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I've seen it done here enough times... that said, I still don't think you can say with absolute certainty that it will crack. But you should certainly be aware that it could and in a bottom mount setup be ready to deal with the (potential) issue. For sure going w/ a stainless housing would be the right way to do it though.

Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

[dburt86]

Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

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Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

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Try it out with you own car and you will see what happen in a year ,bullshit that you have seen it many times because it will crack eventualy, search on Swedish/Norway forums and you will see the pics with cracks .

My car and couple other cars seem to be doing just fine with stainless welded to stock cast manifold. Try it yourself because you will see it actually works.

Google LS truck manifold turbo kits and you will see about 10,000 people doing it with success.

[Butters Stoch]

So far so good with mine.
My worry is less with the weld, but more with the rigid design.
Especially since I'm returning into the DP. I think if it was setup for open dump, I would have less worry of cracking. There is a lot of force going on there when all assembled, then you have expansion due to heat, and movement of pipes.
I added a flex immediately after the WG, just before it ties into the DP.
I wouldn't bet $ it won't crack, but I'll hope it doesn't .