Rear Ball Joint Tool info

[bimma360]

I will be doing a huge rear end bushing job, amongst other things, within the next few weeks and I need to start gathering the right tools. I still need a tool for the 4 rear ball joints. I am pretty set on buying the BMW tool or equivalent for the job instead of trying to make my own. I rather have the job go smoothly then risk waisting a half a day fighting with the bushings. I also want to do these with the trailing arm still installed, so using a press is not an option.

In my research the B333351 tool is the tool everyone talks about. Unfortunately, it is a set that has everything you need for all the bushings and not just the ball joints. As a result it costs like $500. I know my trailing arm bushing tool, already done, can do the subframe bushings so I am all set there. And I am buying a new diff cover, which has new bushings already pressed into it. The new rear control arms already come with bushings pressed in, so no worries there.

With that said it B334191 is listed specifically for rear ball joints. But unfortunately, they don't list it as applicable for the e36. Does anyone have any experience with this particular tool? Is the B333351 the only one for the job? Any alternatives?

Here are some descriptions I ran across:

B333351
REAR AXLE BUSHING KIT
Removes and installs upper control arm bushing, lower control arm bushing and front trailing arm bushing on both E36 and E46 chassis (3 series 1990- 2005). Also fits trailing arm bushing on 5 and 7 series See #AS4464 for 3 series trailing arm bushing only.
E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E34, E36, E39, E46

B334191
REAR AXLE CARRIER BALLJOINT KIT
This kit allows the replacement of the rear axle carrier balljoint with the carrier in place on the car. See also #B333351.
E38, E39, E52, E53, E60, E61, E63, E64, E65, E66, E67

That "See also #B333351" is whats throwing me off.

[RRSperry]

I've got the set for the rear trailing arms, and ball joints.

You pay shipping both ways, and a deposit, and it's yours till you are done.

[bimma360]

You are the man! I'll shoot a PM later today. Thank you.

[MMMGP]

Just did the rear ball joints, upper and lower, with this tool from eBay. Got both my sedans done, feels great!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252186722934...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[flyfishvt]

Just did the rear ball joints, upper and lower, with this tool from eBay. Got both my sedans done, feels great! http://www.ebay.com/itm/252186722934...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Looks like that threaded rod is a little short for the job. You're saying this thing worked well? I've done those ball joints with a bunch of home made adapters. It's not fun. If a $30 tool can make it easier I'll buy one right now.

[MMMGP]

Looks like that threaded rod is a little short for the job. You're saying this thing worked well? I've done those ball joints with a bunch of home made adapters. It's not fun. If a $30 tool can make it easier I'll buy one right now.

Yep, the upper was a little tight but it can be done in-situ. I did loosen the rear disc for a bit more clearance when installing the uppers.

I did burn through the thrust bearing but that's only because one of the upper ball joints binded during installation. This was my fault, everything was going so smooth and I got a little too confidant, I should have checked to make sure the ball joint was seated properly against the trailing arm assembly.

I contacted the seller and he was more than willing to send me a replacement bearing for free, but he's in the UK so he recommended a replacement bearing which is also available on eBay, to save time. I wanted it done and out of the way so I ordered 2 replacement bearings, just in case.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111917890982...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Braymond141]

Yep, the upper was a little tight but it can be done in-situ. I did loosen the rear disc for a bit more clearance when installing the uppers.

I did burn through the thrust bearing but that's only because one of the upper ball joints binded during installation. This was my fault, everything was going so smooth and I got a little too confidant, I should have checked to make sure the ball joint was seated properly against the trailing arm assembly.

I contacted the seller and he was more than willing to send me a replacement bearing for free, but he's in the UK so he recommended a replacement bearing which is also available on eBay, to save time. I wanted it done and out of the way so I ordered 2 replacement bearings, just in case.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111917890982...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I ordered that tool, thanks.

Which version of ball joint did you use? Did the tool tear the boots? There is a revised version with the original thicker boots. 33306852895 Everything I have messed with since 2013-2015 has been the crummy thin boots that tear very easily. I had to reuse original boots on two ball joints because of this. There is a noticeable difference, not just careless install. I plan to switch them all out again sometime soon.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...ght=ball+joint

[MMMGP]

I ordered that tool, thanks.

Which version of ball joint did you use? Did the tool tear the boots? There is a revised version with the original thicker boots. 33306852895 Everything I have messed with since 2013-2015 has been the crummy thin boots that tear very easily. I had to reuse original boots on two ball joints because of this. There is a noticeable difference, not just careless install. I plan to switch them all out again sometime soon.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...ght=ball+joint

I believe I may have used both versions, the Febi on the daily drive and the Lemforder on the weekend car. Will have to check part numbers to confirm, but the Febi ball joints did fit easier into the installation cup. I dabbed a little grease on the rubber boots for all the installations, was worried about pinching the boot.

I only pinched one boot and that happen to be the same ball joint that I had problems with seating correctly. I managed to replace the boot after the ball joint was pressed in place. It's doable, but not fun.

The new ball joints really tightened up the rear end, I could feel it after the test drive. Oddly enough, both driver side uppers were more worn then the rest, so worn that I could feel the ball contact the internal wall of the joint when testing by hand.

Edit: Confirmed, the Lemforder ball joints I ordered are the 551s from RMEuropean at $32.16 each. The Febi's were also 551s from AutohausAZ for $15.63 each and did fit easier into the installation cup.

[bimma360]

Thanks for all the info guys. Braymond, good call on the updated ball joint info. That was my biggest worry. I didn't want to delay any of this job on issues like this. I currently have the set of Lemforder 551's on my list, but I'll just cough up the extra 80 bucks and get the Genuine BMW 895's instead.

MMMGP, thank you for linking that tool. That is exactly what we need to have documented for anyone looking to do this job. It looks like Braymond may have snagged the last one hahah. But i'll def take up RRSperry on his offer. I have an ambitious timeline to get this rear end done, along with front engine mounts, and front hub bearings... so I am just trying to minimize all variables.

Btw... anyone have any advice for the forward (subframe side) diff bushing removal/installation? I am trying to stick with all OE rubber, apart from the trailing arm bushings. Last spring I ended up installing the Bimmerworld monoball bearing versions, and didn't get any NVH so very happy with that. But i suppose, worst case with that diff bushing, I could always go poly for ease of install. Any tips appreciated.

Thanks again.

[mry82]

I believe I may have used both versions, the Febi on the daily drive and the Lemforder on the weekend car. Will have to check part numbers to confirm, but the Febi ball joints did fit easier into the installation cup. I dabbed a little grease on the rubber boots for all the installations, was worried about pinching the boot.

I only pinched one boot and that happen to be the same ball joint that I had problems with seating correctly. I managed to replace the boot after the ball joint was pressed in place. It's doable, but not fun.

The new ball joints really tightened up the rear end, I could feel it after the test drive. Oddly enough, both driver side uppers were more worn then the rest, so worn that I could feel the ball contact the internal wall of the joint when testing by hand.

Edit: Confirmed, the Lemforder ball joints I ordered are the 551s from RMEuropean at $32.16 each. The Febi's were also 551s from AutohausAZ for $15.63 each and did fit easier into the installation cup.

Do the Febis seem to be holding up okay?

[BMWManiac]

Just did the rear ball joints, upper and lower, with this tool from eBay. Got both my sedans done, feels great!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252186722934...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Need to do my bushings....how has this tool held up?

Also, i am not sure when I bought the 551 bushings (probably around 2010) but should I not even try with these?

[TostitoBandito]

You can diy a very similar tool from some threaded rod, washers, and pipe fittings for a few dollars. I just took a ball joint to the hardware store and found stuff that was the right diameter to push and receive. Though for removal of old joints, something beefier like one of the acme bushing kits you can borrow from an auto parts store hold up better. I know I used one of those with my own fittings for some of them once I bent my threaded rod tool by being stupid. I also found that once you got the joints moving a bit, a hammer was usually plenty to get them in our out quick if you just beat on whatever your pusher interface was (socket or pipe).

[BMWManiac]

So the only concern is really getting new ones in there because you need a socket or something to push on the inner race and not just the bushing itself, correct?

[TostitoBandito]

Right, you need something that lines up against the outer sleeve of the bushing but is just thinner than the hole you're pressing it into. Certain sockets would work. I also found some copper pipe fittings of standard sizes which fit perfectly (1.5" maybe?).

[bimma360]

^I would hit up RRSperry and see if he'll rent out his tool. Will probably cost you the same as trying to make one, and it will make the job 100 times easier and faster. Doing the balljoints ended up being most hassle free job out of my entire suspension refresh... solely b/c I used the right tool.

[RRSperry]

Alex just sent me a PM, but sure, for the shipping cost, I'll send it to you...

Kinda like lend lease...

[Ellicose]

Alex just sent me a PM, but sure, for the shipping cost, I'll send it to you...

Kinda like lend lease...

Sorry to resurrect this thread but doing this job right now and having a HELL of a time. Can't PM since my account is new but I'd love to borrow this tool if you can PM me - I appreciate it! If not, I can provide my contact info somehow lol

[RRSperry]

Get to 10 posts, and PM are enabled.
Rich 443-474-4713
Hi.. No problem with bringing a dead thread back...

As for the tool, Paypal me $170 as a gift, (no fees), provide your contact info, name, and shipping address, #s, email...

I send the tool via UPS. When you're done, send it back. When I get it in good condition, I'll refund the money minus my shipping charged. (Basically you pay for shipping both ways.) Most times it costs about $20 each way for UPS...

The tool make it a lot easier to do those jobs while on the car. Please don't use impact tools, use hand wrenches. Using impact will either damage the tool or your car, and I'll have to buy a new tool.

If you haven't ever removed a lower rear camber arm, when you are removing the bolt, turn the bolt, not the nut. The nut is eccentric to adjust the rear camber. Turning it will damage the arm or the nut. AeroKroil (my fav) or some other rust penetration fluid is your friend. (WD-40 is not that....) along with heat. A lot of times that bolt gets rusted in the arm. Let the fluid work.