Questions about front suspension

**dwilsonfl** · 07-03-2017, 04:53 PM

And now the inner tie rod refuses to move. So it's a soak and scrape day.

**Tom D** · 07-03-2017, 09:12 PM

replacement dampers don't come with bumpers, but you really should have them installed.

**jaredmac11** · 07-04-2017, 10:51 AM

Have yall pressed in bushings instead of buying all new control arms? I havent found a good set online yet so my hand may be forced.

**dwilsonfl** · 07-04-2017, 12:36 PM

Originally Posted by Tom D

replacement dampers don't come with bumpers, but you really should have them installed.

I ordered them Tom, hoping to get to use them.

**Hagbard** · 07-05-2017, 11:12 AM

Originally Posted by dwilsonfl

And now the inner tie rod refuses to move. So it's a soak and scrape day.

Inner tie rods are held to rack and pinion by lock washers. There is a tab on the lockwasher that you have to bend out of the way in order to remove the tie rod.

**dwilsonfl** · 07-05-2017, 11:53 AM

did that, still no go

**dwilsonfl** · 07-05-2017, 12:15 PM

Just running down some details while I think about it.

My strut spindles have Boge decals on them. Vehicle was built 9/80. Now that the "hat" is off the strut, I don't believe that the new collar would fit inside the tube.

It's my first time working on an old BMW, previous vehicles have been Sciroccos, Merkur xr4ti, MGB, so I'm just not very sharp on what I'm seeing even with the manual.

**Hagbard** · 07-06-2017, 11:56 AM

Were you able to get the inner tie rod ends free?

**dwilsonfl** · 07-07-2017, 05:20 PM

Not yet. I ordered a tool that's supposed to give me more leverage. Boots came in for them today. This time next week I should be finished and poorer from all the parts and tools I've bought.

David

**bluptgm3** · 07-07-2017, 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by Hagbard

To remove the inner tie rods from the steering rack, I did not particularly like my solution of using an adjustable crescent wrench to remove/install those. The flat parts on either side of the inner tie rod ball joints are really narrow so my crescent barely fit them anyway. The perfect tool in my opinion would be a spanner cut out of flat steel, like a cone wrench. The tie rods that came off were smaller than the ones I put on so measure both (the flat part where a wrench goes) with calipers so you know what wrench sizes to get. I'd guess they're going to be 32 to 34mm but that's just a guess.

On another BMW model these are the same diameter as the engine belt driven fan nut, which I believe is 32mm (for E36/E46.) A bicycle headset wrench works well here for both.

Originally Posted by Hagbard

They make special socket wrenches for those connections but I think a thin spanner (cone wrench) would work just as well if not better.

Bicycle cone wrenches work well here, from Park Tool Company.

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**dwilsonfl** · 07-16-2017, 09:07 AM

Well, I've learned a lot. I'm on vacation right now in Savannah, but will be back home this weekend and hope to finish up. I have every single nut and washer for the struts as well as spring pads on the way. Wondering how to turn the strut top nut while keeping the shaft from spinning.

Also, after replacing the steering rack bushings, I found that replacing the rack isn't a one person job. So my son will be coming over this weekend to help.

I did get the tie rods off, but here's the thing - I ordered replacements from Autohauz back when I was starting to accumulate the parts. For my 1981 (9/80 build date) they had the two tie rods being the same. But looking at them, the driver's side looks shorter. Is this something I or they should have caught? And do I need to order a driver's side?

Thanks for all your help.

**dwilsonfl** · 07-18-2017, 07:18 PM

32111115229

Tie Rod Assembly is what I have, and there's no Left and Right in their catalog. So I ordered two from AutohausAZ. But I look at BavAuto and they seem to have different numbers but only for cars with a steering damper. I'm not sure my car has one.

So any help you can give would be great. Thanks in advance.

David

**bluptgm3** · 07-20-2017, 03:45 PM

Potentially, the last seven of you VIN inserted in realoem provides an accurate listing of parts for you car. Use those part numbers and go to ECS or FPC to order the parts.

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**dwilsonfl** · 07-21-2017, 10:22 AM

Never knew that. BIG help! Thanks!

**320iAman** · 07-21-2017, 03:32 PM

"I have every single nut and washer for the struts as well as spring pads on the way. Wondering how to turn the strut top nut while keeping the shaft from spinning."

A couple of ways, one way is with an impact wrench,,just dont spin the shaft too much,,pull and release the the trigger fast.

Another way is to use round vise grips--put thick cloth( or not scratch wont hurt anything up top) on the chrome shaft and lock the round vise grips on the shaft with the spring compressed, the vice grips fits in between the the coil spring rungs, then take breaker bar and M12 socket and remove the nut while holding the shaft with the vice grips--this works well- done it several times- removing and installing the top strut nut.

Randy

**dwilsonfl** · 07-21-2017, 03:47 PM

So to tighten it when I put it all together, just hit it quick with the impact wrench, correct?

**320iAman** · 07-21-2017, 03:57 PM

I use a torque wrench to finish installing the nut--specifications are 56-62 lb-ft or in a pinch 5 threads showing above the nut will do,,These nuts that come with the dampners or strut tube shocks usually have a plastic locker in them--good for several years then they loosen up--so threadlocker locktite blue coating the nut threads or threaded part of the shaft will keep it there, me I'm going one step further and using Servalite fasteners when I can a subsidiary of the Hillman Group- heat treated m12 nuts and lock washers with thread locker, I'm running 1 1/2 " lowering springs so tightness of nut is vital.

I use stainless steel Nuts and Lock washers on all studs in the cylinder head-heat corrosion no more.

Randy

**dwilsonfl** · 07-24-2017, 03:38 PM

It's hard to rank which of what I've done was the hardest, but getting the bushings replaced on the steering rack was as hard as the struts were. It took two of us a good 3 hours to do it, and if we hadn't used a trick - putting the rear bolts in next to the front ones to compress the bushings and get everything lined up, we'd still be at it. Maybe the poly bushings were the issue, but it's done.

Now I'm on to waiting on new front calipers because both have a frozen piston on one side. Struts are together, steering rack back together ans snugged in. Brake hoses replaced, rotors installed. Going to get the control arms on and the sway bar snugged up and it'll start looking like a functional car again.

David

**Allenwilson33** · 08-01-2017, 01:50 PM

How in the world are we supposed to torque the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod? I don't have a 32mm crowfoot laying around like a fan clutch wrench!
And can somebody recommend a good moly grease? The EP Moly Grease I purchased from O'reilly's doesn't seem like it has the right amount of Moly in it.
Are we actually looking for a paste like this Honday Moly paste?
bump

**dwilsonfl** · 08-02-2017, 11:14 PM

I didn't torque it for that reason. I went with the full out grunt effort and called it a day.

David Wilson
1981 e21 work in pieces... I mean progress

**jaredmac11** · 11-02-2017, 10:32 AM

Hagbard, I wanted to check and see how the control arms are working for you... Its probably still too early but its damn near impossible to interpret which of these brands are good and bad. I hear Dorman is the brand to go for, but others say its crap; same with Meyle, AC Delco, etc. These run from $40-60 so its not a huge difference in price for each one.

Thanks

**320iAman** · 11-02-2017, 11:21 AM

I have been running Dorman control arms for years now, they hang in there,no issues, plus buying from rockauto they come with lifetime warranty so if they go new ones for shipping cost back to rockauto for inspection. Febi brand is worth considering , about $50 ea.

Randy

**jaredmac11** · 11-02-2017, 11:47 AM

Randy, are you pressing in your own bushings? Dorman falls in their economy line, but I'd take your recommendation before rockauto's classification of economy, daily driver, etc.

Also, rockauto also seems to pull the late e21 control arms when browsing for the early model, at least going by their BMW part no.

Jared

**jbowen944** · 10-02-2020, 02:17 PM

Anyone know the importance of replacing the inner sway bar Rubber ring washers? could one get by using the old ones, or are these rubber rings needed for the bushings? maybe you could put a small ring of silicone on the washer and let it set to recreate this part? $10 a washer for a small rubber ring seems excessive.

**buccatini** · 10-05-2020, 10:46 PM

my old guess is that the GUMMIRUBBER washer keeps the metal of the washer away from the bushing; probably for noise (squeaking). after several bushing replacements I went and bought a set of bushing from Eurometric and I have not regretted that decision, ever. I regret that I kept trying to make stock BMW parts perform on Texas roads.

FYI: https://www.schmiedmann.mk/en/bmw-e2...1-35-1-123-140
Parts are cheaper in Germany.