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Thread: Refreshing suspension after (nearly) 200k miles. Looking for a few parts suggestions.

  1. #1
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    Cool Refreshing suspension after (nearly) 200k miles. Looking for a few parts suggestions.

    2001 BMW Z3 coupe 3.0l with just over 180k miles at this point. Lately the front end feels beat (metal on metal sound with bumps, sloppy feeling on harder turns). I jacked the car up and the front lower control arm and sway bar bushings look like they need to be replaced. There was also a good amount of play when moving them around by hand. I jacked up the rear and everything felt fairly solid.
    The questions I had:
    1. What size diameter sway bar bushings do I need? I saw Energy Suspension sells multiple sizes on PelicanParts.
    2. Do I get just the bushing or should I replace the entire control arm? It sounds like the entire arm would make self install easier (and I imagine everything on the arm is well worn).
    2b. Which control arm bushings are suggested? I see that prices vary wildly and am not sure it is worth buying the most expensive ones for a car I will only have for another 12-18 months.
    3. Are there any other suspension parts I should consider replacing while I am getting this far into the car? I did not see anything that looked that bad.


    I WFH so this DD is not driven too often and wouldn't mind a little stiffer ride.
    Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

  2. #2
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    2 --> Replace the whole thing, however the control arm bushing is a separate piece.

    2b -->Powerflex control arm bushings.

    Take a good look at the rear diff bushings, also the welds in the trunk. That play you feel in the front is due to inner and outer tie rods AWA your ball joints being worn down. Replace those as well.
    Photbucket looking to make extra money......

  3. #3
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    Great, I was able to finish this off yesterday and was fairly straightforward. It looks like now the front shocks could also use replacing.

  4. #4
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    I'd recommend replacing everything rubber in the front suspension. If you don't know how long ago it was done, I'd also do the rears. Thats just me though.

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  5. #5
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    We lifted it up and look a look at each piece and made a list of the items that looked or felt worn. (It seemed obvious which pieces had and had not been replaced).
    Now I spent the last half hour searching through old threads but could not find a strong consensus on the options for front struts.


    Monroe: $95- Dont last
    Bilstein B4 or Touring shocks: $95- are a little stiffer (5-10%) than the OEM shocks. Good ride Quality for a daily drive or street only car
    Bilstein B6 or HD shocks fit standard springs ie no lowering and have a stiffer ride. Good if you don't mind a few harsh bumps and want flatter cornering. (NOT lowering and does not apply)
    Bilstein B8 or Sport shocks: $270- are for shorter springs and lower the car. They are more performance/track focused and give a harsh street ride.
    Koni Sport yellows: $225: ?
    KYB AGX: Adjustable- Dont offer for this car?
    KYB GR-2: $120- ?


    Where can I find better info and suggested options for a cost effective solution?

  6. #6
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    what did u get?

    I run koni yellow in NY...great sport shock...and compliant

  7. #7
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    I second the koni sport yellows. Turned down to just above the softest setting, I think they are very well balanced, if a bit pricey.

    If it's primarily a street car, you can't go wrong with the Konis.

    Replacing the entire control arm seems to be pretty standard.

    #3 - take a look at the rear shock mounts. Replace rear shock mounts with BMW part 33521132104, and use rear shock tower reinforcement plates as well, if you're going ahead and doing full shock and strut replacement.

    As far as cost-effectiveness goes, Koni has a sale and rebate program maybe twice annually that really helps. If the shocks aren't urgent, I'd just wait until they go on sale and pounce.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schreier View Post
    ... Replace rear shock mounts with BMW part 33521132104, and use rear shock tower reinforcement plates as well...
    I used UUC's inexpensive kit that includes improved mounts, with plates. The improved mounts will not fail in the way the stock mounts do because they have a "revised conical center section that makes it virtually impossible to push through."
    http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/MEYLE_HD/
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-04-2018 at 06:42 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  9. #9
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    I refreshed pretty much all of my suspension components recently, i just hit 206k miles not too long ago. Here is a summary of what i did.

    -front control arms
    -lower steering u joint/giubo
    -polyurethane subframe bushings
    -polyrethane rtabs
    -oem diff bushing
    -oem transmission mounts
    -oem engine mounts
    -M roadsrer bilstein sports
    -GC coilover conversion
    -M roadster swaybars and endlinks
    -rear butt strut
    -front stutt bar
    -new front m roadster strut hats (inverted)

    Now some comments, i went with bilstein sports for an M roadie with HR springs originally. It was ok, but with the hard top on, the rear sank too low in my opinion, so i went with the GC kit to add ride height adjustability and a bit stiffer (400/500lb sprongs FR)

    I will say, if i was doing it all again i would probably go with Konis because you can at least adjust the rebound a bit, but realistically if you have the funds, a full coilover system is the best overall if you are picky about ride quality etc. As it will let you set the best ride height, and dampening for the area you are in.

    Funnily enough, the ride quality on my car improved significantly when i had the GC coilover kit installed.

    Poly subframe bushings and poly rtabs were an amazing mod, also the rear butt strutt, but you have a coupe so not really as much of an issue for the rear butt strutt.

    New control arms, and the steering u joint which includes a new rubber coupling will make a night and day difference in steering feel.

    M roadster suspension bits are interchangeable with a non m, but if you want to run the M front sway, you need the M roadie/coupe front struts.

    For a street car I would stay away from polyurethane engine and tranny mounts, the only urethane i went with was rear subframe bushings and rtabs. Some people complain about the rtabs squeaking mine did at first a bit, but just needed to be adjusted a couple weeks after installation and have been good for a while now (4 or 5 years).

    If you go coilovers TC kline and GC are both quite good. But if its overkill for your use, I would suggest koni shocks and maybe eibach springs etc. Bilstein i was not a fan of the ride quality when coupled with H&R sport springs. But it significantly improved when i installed the ground control coilover conversion kit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luftwaffe1O1 View Post
    Some people complain about the rtabs squeaking mine did at first a bit, but just needed to be adjusted a couple weeks after installation and have been good for a while now (4 or 5 years).
    How did you adjust? My Z3 Coupe came with poly RTAB, and they scream in the warmer months. I get a lot of strange looks driving down the street.
    Nathan in Denver

    1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
    1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42

  11. #11
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    some folks get so confused when talking coilovers.

    you hear:


    coilovers ride hard..

    coilovers make noise...







    coilovers are what u make them..and it depends on your front camber plates if you have, and the bushing/bearings you use. Also depends on sprg rates!..

    most good street set ups w/ normal street rates have amazing ride qualities

  12. #12
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    ...it depands
    If you get as far as what everyone is suggesting, I would also recomend checking your tie rod and power steering system as well.

    Whenever I do this type of work, it's like a rabbit hole for me. It doesn't end and the list keeps growing...
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by s8ilver View Post
    How did you adjust? My Z3 Coupe came with poly RTAB, and they scream in the warmer months. I get a lot of strange looks driving down the street.
    What apparently happened after installation they tend to losen a tiny bit, and you need to tighten them up a bit. Mine squeaked like crazy for a bit, and not a peep for years now.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by jrkoupe View Post
    some folks get so confused when talking coilovers.

    you hear:


    coilovers ride hard..

    coilovers make noise...







    coilovers are what u make them..and it depends on your front camber plates if you have, and the bushing/bearings you use. Also depends on sprg rates!..

    most good street set ups w/ normal street rates have amazing ride qualities
    I used to be in this camp long ago, but have changed my mind exactly for the reason you stated, it is what you make them.

    I think a lot of people just go super stiff and then the ride quality goes to crap.

    If you pair spring rates well with how you set the dampening they can be much better than just a shock + spring combo.

    I think for some people the cost might be a bit overkill but i would say its worth it, you can set the car up exactly how you want it.

  14. #14
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    So is the current $854 the special low price for the Konis (for non-M Coupe)?
    http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAm...=185&mk=6&mt=1

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henway View Post
    So is the current $854 the special low price for the Konis (for non-M Coupe)?
    http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAm...=185&mk=6&mt=1
    Yes, it is for 6 cylinder non M.

    Personally i like running m roadie bits because can use the m sway bar up front then.

  16. #16
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    On the website, this is one of the few that includes "lowering" springs.
    For those who've bought, do you know how much it lowers?
    Can I use my current springs if it's too low?

    (my driveway has a high angle and I barely scrape the front bumper center with stock suspension now)

    Quote Originally Posted by Henway View Post
    So is the current $854 the special low price for the Konis (for non-M Coupe)?
    http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAm...=185&mk=6&mt=1

  17. #17
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    I recently installed the adjustable Konis, I wouldn't pay more for the Konis if you don't track or auto x it, the rears have to come off to adjust. I don't and so wish I'd bought something else. They do ride nice though. I am running stock springs with no problems.

  18. #18
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    My conundrum is now maintaining OEM height I have three choices:
    The above $854 Konis which come with 1.5" lowered springs, but use the original springs
    $1200 for externally adjustable rear Koni through top, again using original springs
    $2000 for Ground Control setup which is among the few with height adjustment.

    Obviously, money is always an issue and I'll be DIYing it. But it seems like this may be a time to splurge because the other two have limitations. Re-grading my driveway is $3000 if I want to lower the car any more. Sure, that would future-proof cars in the future, but I don't see any reason yet to be buying a lower car ever.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henway View Post
    My conundrum is now maintaining OEM height I have three choices:
    The above $854 Konis which come with 1.5" lowered springs, but use the original springs
    $1200 for externally adjustable rear Koni through top, again using original springs
    $2000 for Ground Control setup which is among the few with height adjustment.

    Obviously, money is always an issue and I'll be DIYing it. But it seems like this may be a time to splurge because the other two have limitations. Re-grading my driveway is $3000 if I want to lower the car any more. Sure, that would future-proof cars in the future, but I don't see any reason yet to be buying a lower car ever.
    Can check TC kline as well they make good stuff, but ground control kits are good.

  20. #20
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    You would be at $650ish if you use stock springs, no need to buy the kit if you decide not to lower it.

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