Best E36 to start with for turbo

[angeleye540i]

While we are waiting for OP to get out of timeout... Question for you turbo E36 guys... What's the easiest/best starter car for a turbo build... 323 325 328 318? I would assume the 328 would be ideal because it has a more serious transmission... Also I know you guys are running heavy duty clutches and what not... are you running that through the stock manual trans? Or should I just find The car in pieces... And if that's the case what chassis style and/or working transmission am I looking for?

[vollosso]

While we are waiting for OP to get out of timeout... Question for you turbo E36 guys... What's the easiest/best starter car for a turbo build... 323 325 328 318? I would assume the 328 would be ideal because it has a more serious transmission... Also I know you guys are running heavy duty clutches and what not... are you running that through the stock manual trans? Or should I just find The car in pieces... And if that's the case what chassis style and/or working transmission am I looking for?

i would personally go ahead and buy a m3.. They are so cheap anymore and you get the cams, trans and drivetrain..

[angeleye540i]

i would personally go ahead and buy a m3.. They are so cheap anymore and you get the cams, trans and drivetrain..

that's funny you should say that because I was just about to update my post and say "I know there's always the M3 option, and I have always loved the M3 I just don't know... " I would like to keep cost down and not be paying for the badges and stitching and extra stuff the M3 has however awesome it is... Although definitely considering it

[vollosso]

that's funny you should say that because I was just about to update my post and say "I know there's always the M3 option, and I have always loved the M3 I just don't know... " I would like to keep cost down and not be paying for the badges and stitching and extra stuff the M3 has however awesome it is... Although definitely considering it

it has reinforced pockets, bigger axels, lsd... ...

[Kevin325i]

that's funny you should say that because I was just about to update my post and say "I know there's always the M3 option, and I have always loved the M3 I just don't know... " I would like to keep cost down and not be paying for the badges and stitching and extra stuff the M3 has however awesome it is... Although definitely considering it

As someone who did the 328 automatic to m3 or better.. Getting an m3 would have been so much easier. However I did save 2-3k in the process and ended up basically having nothing under the car older than 60k miles with most of that being brand new.

Sometimes I wish I had found a better condition e36 before I dumped a ton of money into it though. I could always spend a bunch of money to have it painted and have a car I'm worried to get scratched.

[rajicase]

it has reinforced pockets, bigger axels, lsd... ...

Better suspension, better brakes, looks , etc

[Butters Stoch]

This can be argued multiple ways. I also have done the 328 to m3+.

Is it easier to just buy an m3 ? Yes. .... BUT take this into consideration.

1. M3 will be at least $1-3k more

2. M3 will be more to register

3. M3 will have higher premiums

4. All those parts you get with the M3 that you don't get with the 328, are 20 year old bushings etc. So chances are you will be dropping the subframe, trailing arms anyway.
On the flip side, gaining the displacement , and being able to change the parts out at your leisure is worth something.

These are only things to think about. Personally, I think the M3 is the way to go.

[angeleye540i]

What about this one? http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...op-convertible Too nice? Just right? It kind of bothers me the M3 badge is missing from the back... It's such a beautiful badge, and obviously it can be replaced but it always seems like crooked when people try to put badges back on

[Kevin325i]

I mean M3+ is awesome and all but if you have the chance at a nice clean m3 just buy it.


Things don't really get out of hand from the 8k car plus 5k turbo kit. It's when you build the engine, put together a second turbo kit, replace all the bushings, and buy fancy go fast driveline parts that you end up in the $25,000+ e36 club.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I mean M3+ is awesome and all but if you have the chance at a nice clean m3 just buy it.


Things don't really get out of hand from the 8k car plus 5k turbo kit. It's when you build the engine, put together a second turbo kit, replace all the bushings, and buy fancy go fast driveline parts that you end up in the $25,000+ e36 club.

But that's usually what happens... No one who actually likes cars/driving and having something somewhat reliable is going to run around in a 15+ year old turbo E36 that hasn't gotten the brakes/suspension/wheels/tires replaced... if that's the plan, might as well just find the crappiest/cheapest E36, pay more then the car is worth to turbo it and then cry every time something breaks on it from all the extra power/hard driving and then do it all over again for 4x times the money

[milKt]

subscribed

[vollosso]

I mean M3+ is awesome and all but if you have the chance at a nice clean m3 just buy it. Things don't really get out of hand from the 8k car plus 5k turbo kit. It's when you build the engine, put together a second turbo kit, replace all the bushings, and buy fancy go fast driveline parts that you end up in the $25,000+ e36 club.

i laughed so hard at this... Then Subsequently cried.. After i did some math in my head..


Also is anyone else finding it harder and harder to distinguish between VR and milKt?

[milKt]

^
^
cap gun fired





to the FAUX OP,
(from another thread)

if you have the extra couple G's to throw at an M3 ...go for it

otherwise
I know 328's and 325's that would whip up on MANY of the M3's here.

It's no real big deal.
If you're gonna do it right,
then you're ALL IN ANYWAY.


It REALLY depends on your GOALS?
Is your goal to save money
or
have a fast car?

[Kevin325i]

But that's usually what happens... No one who actually likes cars/driving and having something somewhat reliable is going to run around in a 15+ year old turbo E36 that hasn't gotten the brakes/suspension/wheels/tires replaced... if that's the plan, might as well just find the crappiest/cheapest E36, pay more then the car is worth to turbo it and then cry every time something breaks on it from all the extra power/hard driving and then do it all over again for 4x times the money

Oh agree 100%

The lazy in me says get the m3 cause what difference is it when the car costs 25000 after 4 years, or 28000?

BUT, the cheap in me says get the 328. The cheap in me usually wins.

i laughed so hard at this... Then Subsequently cried.. After i did some math in my head..

I keep a spreadsheet that's about 99% complete. I find it helps me to know why I don't have money to spend on other stuff..

[Butters Stoch]

I wouldn't even want to bother trying to add it up. But also don't care. Its my sanity, and hobby.

[flyfishvt]

Get the m3 cause then you can say you own a m3. You'll get all the hot girls.

[rajicase]

Get the m3 cause then you can say you own a m3. You'll get all the hot girls.

+11112341

[somebody5788]

I think it honestly depends on just how much you're paying. In my case getting a super clean 328is for $1100 and having under $4k into the car after getting all of normal wear and tear items replaced is better then paying 3-5k for an M that will likely need the same amount of work anyways. The only thing the M has to me that a 328is really needs is better brakes but if it was a street car only it really would never be an issue anyways

[angeleye540i]

Thanks for breaking this thread into its own for me... Whoever it was... E24mpwr it seems... Yeah the M is a wonderful car, the trans displacement and LSD is a big plus... Also "turbo M3" sounds pretty awesome rolling off the tongue

[angeleye540i]

That one for sale I posted a link to is all "fixed up" and seems all kept up suspension and whatnot... So HG, flywheel clutch, turbo and Plumbing... Anything else ?

He's asking 9,9k$ OBO I'm tempted to throw an offer his way... It would be a road trip to pick up but well worth it, if it's as good as it looks... Altho it rides alittle low for taste/city

[pbonsalb]

You can upgrade the front 328 brakes to E46 330 brakes that are as good as E36 M brakes. And when you upgrade the 328 axles to M axles and M trailing arms, you need to use M rear brakes.

[vollosso]

That one for sale I posted a link to is all "fixed up" and seems all kept up suspension and whatnot... So HG, flywheel clutch, turbo and Plumbing... Anything else ? He's asking 9,9k$ OBO I'm tempted to throw an offer his way... It would be a road trip to pick up but well worth it, if it's as good as it looks... Altho it rides alittle low for taste/city

every weekend of your life... And probably many week nights..

Yayyyyayayayayaaya!!

[Butters Stoch]

You can upgrade the front 328 brakes to E46 330 brakes that are as good as E36 M brakes. And when you upgrade the 328 axles to M axles and M trailing arms, you need to use M rear brakes.

This.
The 330 brakes are just as good as the M3 brakes. Also, for $250-500 you can buy a full m3 drop out rear assembly. Trailing arms, axles, diff, all that. Then spend another $250 on bushings and stuff.

[doktor b]

M3 brakes are always in the classifieds as M3 owners upgrade to fixed aluminum calipers or whatever nonsense we buy.
don't let brakes sway you.

the M3 will have body reinforcements for the rear subframe that will need to be installed in EVERY non-M e36.
as well as more robust trailing arms and axles.

if you want to make big power, buy the strongest base you can or you may end up spending the difference in parts you need to upgrade otherwise.


and just to make sure i contradict myself, (this is bimmerforums) i'd realistically advise to buy the nicest condition e36 you can afford and upgrade that. the upgrade paths are the same for M/non-M. save yourself the ballache of replacing all the worn junk on a poorly maintained car just to get a badge.

[angeleye540i]

^ ^ cap gun fired to the FAUX OP, (from another thread) if you have the extra couple G's to throw at an M3 ...go for it otherwise I know 328's and 325's that would whip up on MANY of the M3's here. It's no real big deal. If you're gonna do it right, then you're ALL IN ANYWAY. It REALLY depends on your GOALS? Is your goal to save money or have a fast car?

my goal is to a) have a very fast car... And B) do it right the first time and plan out best as possible in order to save building and rebuilding anything... I've been moddifying my 540 (Dinan 5) NA and it's great and fast but it's not FAAAST... And then there's my 330ci which I bought as my new daily in December and fixed EVERYTHING on it, it's an auto as I've been driving 540i6s (2 diff cars) for 12 years and I was tired of DDing a stick after doing it in the city for so long... But this project has nothing to do with that... This is my "got my weekend car (Dinan 5) and DD to my liking/perfection and want another (turbo) project" car... The 540 is having headers ceramic coated as I type this... They'll be ready to pick up Monday then it's going to my Indy "Dinan guy" to be mounted with an M5 front sway as dropping the subframe I'm looking to kill 2 birds... Once that is done I'll be focusing more on this... I have a pretty good team of techs to do what I won't or can't eg. Welding etc... I'm a hassle free type of person so that's really what I'm lookin the most at I guess... Altho I know turbocharging an M is a large undertaking... I do understand the modding addiction I guess Is what I'm trying to say here... And I appreciate minimal PITA activities...

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...op-convertible

This is the one I'm looking at