Ordered some stuff.
-GM pressure sensor for the tank to get the evap working
-Pigtail for the sensor
-3/4" brass union for one of the heater hoses
-99 column bracket for the 99 3 spoke wheel
-Door handle gaskets
-New molding for the bottom of both pop out windows
Put together a list of what I still don't have, still a lot left to order.
Sold the YZ250 and freed up some cash to get this build moving. I decided to sell the NAHR stuff, up for $1500 for anyone interested.
In the meantime, I ordered:
-CXracing mounts and headers
-Trickflow steam line kit
-Stainless X pipe
-Two magnaflow compact cats
-Front sway bar end links
-DEI Heat shielding for trans tunnel
-DEI sleeve for fuel line/evap
Also went to Autzone today to pick up a throwout bearing, hoping it would be one of the bearings made by the same OEM as the GM stuff (I guess some are made in Mexico and stamped "AP"?) but this was made in China, so that will likely be going back tomorrow.
I did manage to finish up installing the Mtechnic wheel. Needed to swap to the 99 steering column piece, then eliminate the tab for the contact ring from the old mount, as it was locking the 99 clock spring in place. Only issue I'm still having is that the horn doesn't work when the key is out of the ignition, which seems odd to me.
In BMWs at least e36-46 horn and many other functions are not supposed to work with key out of ignition. So it works as expected.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Why swap to CXracing mounts over the NAHR ones?
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Good to know, glad I tried it with the key on before I started chasing my tail haha.
Below.
Didn't want to get in to moving the fuel/evap, etc, and I'd like to put this thing on coilovers at some point, and the NAHR stuff limited that clearance.
Anyone interested in buying them?
Went to install the Trickflow steam line kit last night. Everything looks really nice, but the fittings included are not designed for a fuel injected application. There are 4 90* fittings for each corner, which will not work with the LS6 intake. Bought some 45* -4AN fittings from ICT Billet off Amazon, which should hopefully solve the problem.
CXRacing stuff is in. Fitment seems to be pretty decent. I can fit my index finger between the booster and valve cover, so that's an improvement. Only issue I'm seeing right off the bat are the rear two spark plug wires on the driver's side- going to have to get creative there. Looks like the MSD car wires I have may not be long enough.
Pictures:
They're not long enough. Trying to figure out what to do with mine as far as plug wires.
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Ls2 e36 sedan
There is two kinds of truck wires depending on what coil packs are on the engine. I beleive it's the square style coil packs thay have the longer wires. No need to run a ground if you mount them anywhere else they are grounded thru the harness already.
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Finished up the door handle swap. Window was only going up halfway yesterday, then binding up. Found that the glass was off the front track after taking out the rear track again.
Also finished extending the wires for the ABS pump. I didn't have much harness left on the fuse box side after cutting it, so I cut back the wrapping and pulled everything back into the box itself. Had to swap out the X20 plug with a spare that I had. Mangled the first one because I didn't realize there was a locking ring to release before removing pins (whoops). Added the nylon braiding/heatshrink. Hopefully this works. Will probably cut the grommet on the side of the box or run it out the fender side and tuck the wiring as much as possible.
Bought a second set of contours today, so I can have 8.5" all around.
Looking at other E36 M3's for a DD as well until this thing is done.
Bought this as a DD, M3/4/5, some rust, 132k, BC Racing coilovers, aftermarket sway, Billy Boat exhaust, etc. Was pretty pumped until I found out the hard way that it had a salvage title from 2011 through my insurance company. PO had a clear MA title and knew nothing about it. Probably going to drive the shit out of it this winter, then sell it once I get my swap running and driving.
Put together the Trickflow steam line kit today. I've never worked with nylon braided hose, so there was a little bit of a learning curve for me. Ended up tapping the water pump near the thermostat for the return. As I mentioned before, I needed some 45* fittings to make the kit work with the LS6 intake. I used the 45* to cross over under the throttle body, and at each of the rear corners. Had some left over straight fittings afterwards and a little bit of hose, so the kit was pretty decent otherwise and I'm sure it would work better with an aftermarket manifold or a carb setup.
Also started on the brake lines. Used a piece of angle iron to make a place to rest the ABS mount I built a while ago. Tacked in for now, and I had a lot of porosity in the welds because of paint inside the frame rails and under the fenders. Ran three of the six brake lines as well, both to the master, and the one for the driver's side front. I ended up rebuilding this line completely to eliminate one union and a potential leak spot. In all of the years I've worked on cars, I have yet to do any brake lines, and I was pretty happy with how easy the copper lines are to work with.
Steam port kit is very similar to mine, just put my tap into the water pump higher up.
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Ls2 e36 sedan
Is yours the Trickflow kit as well?
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