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Thread: Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

  1. #126
    Join Date
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    OKC,OK
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    several
    Youve inspired me to go back and tweak some things. I broke a boss off on the T56 extension housing for the passenger side bolt (cracked all through, so now only held by 1 bolt), so now to redo the crossmember to accept a GM OEM style bushing.

    I appreciate your pics! Your progress is great!


    If you dont find the wire, I can pull my steering wheel an browse the e36 bible to see what it is.
    Last edited by OKsweetrides; 07-23-2016 at 06:01 PM.
    1998 M3 Sedan - LS3 M12T56 - E38 PCM w/ AC and DBW. 420rwhp.

  2. #127
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    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    Quote Originally Posted by OKsweetrides View Post
    Youve inspired me to go back and tweak some things. I broke a boss off on the T56 extension housing for the passenger side bolt (cracked all through, so now only held by 1 bolt), so now to redo the crossmember to accept a GM OEM style bushing. I appreciate your pics! Your progress is great!
    Thanks, some days I feel like I haven't accomplished anything on this, but it's good to hear that other people think I'm making progress. Going to keep pushing.

  3. #128
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    Sep 2015
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    Passenger side header is in, ABS is pulled, and brackets are cut out so I can rework them into a new mount. The remaining pieces of bracket will be addressed once the motor comes back out.





    Ordered 25' of copper brake line, a bubble flaring tool, and a bunch of unions and other fittings to make this all happen. Does anyone have a suggestion for a heat shield/ sleeve to use to run the brake lines along the strut tower?
    Last edited by squashman702; 07-25-2016 at 04:53 PM.

  4. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    You should be fine without the shield. If you really want it, you could splice a small diameter fuel hose and put it over the lines.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  5. #130
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    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    Quote Originally Posted by OKsweetrides View Post
    Youve inspired me to go back and tweak some things. I broke a boss off on the T56 extension housing for the passenger side bolt (cracked all through, so now only held by 1 bolt), so now to redo the crossmember to accept a GM OEM style bushing.

    I appreciate your pics! Your progress is great!


    If you dont find the wire, I can pull my steering wheel an browse the e36 bible to see what it is.
    That would be a huge help. The wheel is locked upside down and I'm not sure if the wires that are on that plug somehow play into it. Haven't seen them mentioned in other 3 spoke swaps.

    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    You should be fine without the shield. If you really want it, you could splice a small diameter fuel hose and put it over the lines.
    Good to know, thanks.

  6. #131
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    Sep 2015
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    Spent most of the afternoon helping out my buddy with his '49 F1, did start on extending the ABS harness, however. Made it long enough so I can run it through the fender.



    And the F1 with the M3 lurking in the back, he's dropping it on a Crown Vic front end and Lincoln Mark VIII rear so that it can lay frame.


  7. #132
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    I would advise to solder, don't use crimp connectors.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  8. #133
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    Oct 2008
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    96 M3 TT LSx
    Looks like he is using Raychem/Duraseal splices, which are far better than solder for automotive applications when properly crimped.

    - - - Updated - - -

    PS. Kind of upset there are no pics of that wood fired brick oven pizza
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdobart View Post
    Looks like he is using Raychem/Duraseal splices, which are far better than solder for automotive applications when properly crimped.

    - - - Updated - - -

    PS. Kind of upset there are no pics of that wood fired brick oven pizza
    The za was delicious.

    Wired up a Sony head unit I had kicking around tonight, need an antenna cable still apparently. Helped my friend flush/bleed the brakes in his E46 M3 after.

  10. #135
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    ABS bracket is done minus paint and figuring out where I'm going to mount it. Dimple dies because racecar. Sloppy work because it's me.


  11. #136
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    Made a quick trip to the shop tonight.

    Passenger door panel in, speakers hooked up.



    Sony headunit installed, had to finish the harness, and add in the antenna wire, as well as pull the old bezel off of it from when it was in one of my 5.9 Grand Cherokee's.


    Water pump bolts were nasty, stuck those in the sand blaster to clean them up. Big difference.



    Water pump in and torqued. Need new bolts for the thermostat housing, so that's not installed yet.


    And my list of stuff left to buy. Long list, but it's everything I can think of that I'm missing at this point.


  12. #137
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    96 M3 TT LSx
    Just an FYI with those bolts. They're nickel coated so they don't rust. When you blast them or wire wheel them, that nickel coating is removed. Initially they look way better, but after a few months they end up rusting and turning completely orange. I just had to replace all mine hah - first hand experience doing the same thing.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  13. #138
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    Nov 2015
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    kelowna
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    Z3 Coupe 3.0
    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electropl...-tin-zinc.html

    yeah they will be pretty rusty soon, eastwood has a kit.

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdobart View Post
    Just an FYI with those bolts. They're nickel coated so they don't rust. When you blast them or wire wheel them, that nickel coating is removed. Initially they look way better, but after a few months they end up rusting and turning completely orange. I just had to replace all mine hah - first hand experience doing the same thing.
    Good to know, figured it was better than putting them back as is.

    Quote Originally Posted by fallguy View Post
    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electropl...-tin-zinc.html

    yeah they will be pretty rusty soon, eastwood has a kit.
    More tools are always good.

  15. #140
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    Plug wires, remaining heater hose, belt and a used coil pack all ordered.

  16. #141
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    1997 M3- LS1/T56
    JTR diff flange purchased from another member on here.

  17. #142
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    Was out of town all week for work, finally got to spend some time at the shop today. Got the brake lines cut and the driver side header fitted. Crossmember is reinstalled, and the motor is sitting on its own weight.



    Not super happy with where the headers end up. The passenger side seems reasonable, but the driver's side dumps out basically right where the fuel filter/regulator normally is. Looks like I'd need to move the filter and move the line to the line outside of the rail, which presents an obvious safety issue. I'll grab some pictures and see if I can't figure out what NAHR did on their build.
    Last edited by squashman702; 08-08-2016 at 05:36 PM.

  18. #143
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    Installed the missing coil pack and the thermostat/housing. Did some general clean up as well, under the car was a mess, as was the engine bay.

    Next issue as I mentioned is the headers. I'm really not fond of how the driver's side header fits. This is with everything bolted in, there's no weight on the jack in these pictures.



    Looking down the driver's side frame rail. Header points exactly where the regulator/filter needs to go.



    Passenger header, seems to be way more tucked up and placed with the outlet in a better spot.

    Last edited by squashman702; 08-11-2016 at 09:58 PM.

  19. #144
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    1995 e36 sedan
    I think I remember seeing people move the lines and regulator to the passenger side because of this.

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  20. #145
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    sterling hts, michigan
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    02 M3
    You shouldn't have to move the fuel filter/regulator. Mine is all in the OEM location. The headers I received from CX were actually too much into the interior of the car than exterior like yours, I'd ring them up and explain the extremely poor fitment.

  21. #146
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    1995 e36 sedan
    He's running cxracing headers on new age hot rod mounts?

    Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  22. #147
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    They're New Age mounts and New Age headers.

  23. #148
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    Didn't make much progress today. Kind of at a standstill with some stuff until I decide what I'm going to do with headers/mounts. Ended up getting all the hoses I need for the heater valve relocate, but I'm going to delete the tray for the SAP, so I didn't mount the bracket I made yet. Not trying to get into deleting anything until I can pull the motor out again. Still haven't heard back from NAHR about the headers, probably will call them if I don't hear back tomorrow.


  24. #149
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    Nov 2015
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    Carlos MN
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    99 E36
    Bummer to mod a purchase part but maybe an angle cut to the collector to point it away from the fuel filter?

    I've found all the work on hot rods only using a floor jacks and jack stands is really good for the shoulder muscles.

    My home built swap headers are not close to the stock fuel filter location.

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99E36LS1 View Post
    Bummer to mod a purchase part but maybe an angle cut to the collector to point it away from the fuel filter?

    I've found all the work on hot rods only using a floor jacks and jack stands is really good for the shoulder muscles.

    My home built swap headers are not close to the stock fuel filter location.
    I'd cut it so that it worked, but I still have the issue of how low the header sits versus the passenger side, which I'm not pleased about either. That would add a lot more work.

    I feel you on working on my back- never had a lift in all of my years of working on cars/Jeeps.

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