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Thread: Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

  1. #51
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    In general a 10:1 compression ratio normally reads about 200psi on a compression test. But you're right, in general you look at the difference between cylinders - unless they are all substantially low.

    But in your case, the difference between two of your cylinders is 60psi....One cylinder reading 158psi and another reading 218psi. Either something is wrong, or the test was performed incorrectly.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdobart View Post
    In general a 10:1 compression ratio normally reads about 200psi on a compression test. But you're right, in general you look at the difference between cylinders - unless they are all substantially low.

    But in your case, the difference between two of your cylinders is 60psi....One cylinder reading 158psi and another reading 218psi. Either something is wrong, or the test was performed incorrectly.
    Considering I was a dumbass and forgot that the throttle was closed (well, covered mostly with tape to keep debris out while I was moving the motor from work to my shop), I really don't think I actually learned much from the test. More doing it to make sure I didn't have a cylinder that was showing as totally dead as a quick check. I may end up redoing it now that I've got the pan swapped.

  3. #53
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    Pulled the gas tank today, had about 2 gallons of horrible looking gas in it. I think the car is going on three years without a motor in it; I've had it about eight months, and the PO had it for around two years after he pulled the S52 for his E30. Should be able to weld in the rear trailing arm reinforcements either tomorrow or Friday, and hit it with some seam sealer, undercoating, and paint.

  4. #54
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    AKG RTAB reinforcements welded in yesterday. Haven't welded overhead in a while. I'd definitely suggest pulling the tank for anyone considering adding these; it gives you a lot more room to work, plus takes away some of the hazard. I also used the access hole in the body to spray water in between the layers of steel to keep the undercoating from causing too big of a fire.



  5. #55
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    i need to do this so badly. my akg rtab pocket reinforcements have been in my tool box for so long, the plastic is yellowing.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    i need to do this so badly. my akg rtab pocket reinforcements have been in my tool box for so long, the plastic is yellowing.
    Practice your overhead! Haha. The driver's side was a relearning experience. Haven't done any overhead since I had Jeeps.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Practice your overhead! Haha. The driver's side was a relearning experience. Haven't done any overhead since I had Jeeps.
    lol. i need to practice welding in general before i tackle that job. i don't have much reason to weld aside from isolated jobs on the M3.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    lol. i need to practice welding in general before i tackle that job. i don't have much reason to weld aside from isolated jobs on the M3.
    I'd suggest dropping the tank as mentioned above, as you have to work in weird positions even with it out of the way. Use a gas set up if you have it, flux core would make a huge mess. Keep most of your heat in the 3/16" plate, then pull it in to the sheetmetal. Spray your paint with water in the rocker area below the molding; I did that and all of the water was evaporated off by the end of welding in the plate, and that was with jumping around the reinforcement as much as possible to keep the heat down.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    I'd suggest dropping the tank as mentioned above, as you have to work in weird positions even with it out of the way. Use a gas set up if you have it, flux core would make a huge mess. Keep most of your heat in the 3/16" plate, then pull it in to the sheetmetal. Spray your paint with water in the rocker area below the molding; I did that and all of the water was evaporated off by the end of welding in the plate, and that was with jumping around the reinforcement as much as possible to keep the heat down.
    thanks for the insight! idk if i'm gonna drop the tank tho. i'll have a look at that and see if it's worth the extra work. (if i drop the tank, i'll end up dropping the rear subframe. and then i'll end up with the X part of a roll cage that ties the mounting points of the subframe together and to the body and then i'll end up welding in my roll bar and building a cage. it will get out of hand. and i really badly need to get the motor back in the car and drive it. my truck is boring and bad on gas.)
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    thanks for the insight! idk if i'm gonna drop the tank tho. i'll have a look at that and see if it's worth the extra work. (if i drop the tank, i'll end up dropping the rear subframe. and then i'll end up with the X part of a roll cage that ties the mounting points of the subframe together and to the body and then i'll end up welding in my roll bar and building a cage. it will get out of hand. and i really badly need to get the motor back in the car and drive it. my truck is boring and bad on gas.)
    Dropping the tank was the easiest part, worth the extra 45 minutes it'll take. I'm going to do a new pump at a minimum to support the LS and get the shit gas out of the tank, and half of my evap stuff is gone anyway, so it was worth it for me.

  11. #61
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    Didn't get anything done yesterday, too busy dragging this over to the shop, going to check the valves and do an adjustment if needed. Too many toys and not enough time.



    Today I DID accomplish something. Looked for the seam sealer I bought the other day for about 30 minutes, gave up, and went to the store and bought some, then found the tube I bought the other day. Ended up cleaning up the RTA pockets and reinforcements I welded on as well as the rear shock mounts, then sprayed two coats of primer on it. Hit it with some seam sealer after. Came out decent I think.




    Sandblasted the mounts for the rear trailing arms and painted those too.


  12. #62
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    Checked the valves on the YZ250F, also undercoated and painted the M3.




  13. #63
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    Swapped in my black carpet and started sorting out the interior. Looks better than it actually is in these pictures. Have some really rough Modena vaders to go in there, but they're going to need some fresh leather first. That's a ways down the road though, got more money to spend in other places.


  14. #64
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    Curious if you photographed the cut in the carpet that's required for it to be removed without removing the heater core? I've read about it may times but have never seen a picture of what's actually needed.

    Tipsy
    Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 05-21-2016 at 12:36 AM.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Curious if you photographed the cut in the carpet that's required for it to be removed without removing the heater core? I've read about it may times but have never seen a picture of what's actually needed.

    Tipsy
    I bought mine used, and someone did cut it so they didn't have to pull the core. I'll see how it fits once I get plastics back in then I'll take some pictures.

  16. #66
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    More cleaning. Got the only Modena panel that didn't need work installed, and glued the pockets and mounting strips back in the other panels. Also got the first coat of primer on the subframe.






  17. #67
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    Panels came out decent, wish I didn't give away my speakers for the front door panels. Now going to have to track some down before I put those in. Got the other rear panel installed, and laid down a couple coats of Napa chassis paint on the subframe. Also started blasting one of the spring mounts, may end up plating those.



  18. #68
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    What kind of repair work were you doing to those panels?

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    More cleaning. Got the only Modena panel that didn't need work installed, and glued the pockets and mounting strips back in the other panels. Also got the first coat of primer on the subframe.




    What exactly did you use the sheet metal for?

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBasham View Post
    What kind of repair work were you doing to those panels?
    Quote Originally Posted by ponchiz318 View Post
    What exactly did you use the sheet metal for?
    Reattached the door pockets and mounting strips. Used the sheet metal to put some weight on the pockets while the adhesive cured.

    Made some more progress tonight. Slapped the YZ back together so I can ride this weekend at a friend's house in NY. It's still fast.

    Finished painting the subframe, came out decent. Ended up plating the rear spring mount with 1/8" that I removed and started to strip yesterday. Hoping to finish the other side tomorrow. Far from my best welds. The other side should look a lot nicer.





    Last edited by squashman702; 05-25-2016 at 09:51 PM.

  21. #71
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    Reinforced the other control arm. This one came out a little better. Basically the same procedure as the last. Cut the 1/8" with the grinder from the template I made from the last one, tacked it, bent it to shape in the press, clamped it in the vise and welded away.









    Pretty sure Chip Foose is going to be debuting these paint stools at the next SEMA convention.




  22. #72
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    Ported stock throttle body came in today, also snagged some speakers for the front door panels from the junkyard.

    Does anyone know if I can power up the interior harness without the engine harness being connected? As far as I can tell, the engine harness is the only thing missing from the equation. Trying to test the functions of the sunroof, windows, and speakers before I button up the interior.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Does anyone know if I can power up the interior harness without the engine harness being connected? As far as I can tell, the engine harness is the only thing missing from the equation.
    Yes, I've put power on my car with the engine/harness removed so I could run a self test on the instrument cluster and also to move the seats forward/aft so I could access the bolts to remove them.

    Tipsy

  24. #74
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    Run a 8AWG wire or larger wire from the power distribution block (firewall on passenger side) to the power lug on the fusebox (drivers side). This will give you the power you need.
    96 M3 | Forged LSx | Twin S366 | Injector Dynamics | E85 | AEM Infinity
    90 Schwarz 325i

    IG : sdobart

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdobart View Post
    Run a 8AWG wire or larger wire from the power distribution block (firewall on passenger side) to the power lug on the fusebox (drivers side). This will give you the power you need.
    Thank you sir.

    The PO pulled my power distribution block for his swap, was hoping once I replaced that, I'd be able to get power but didn't have any luck. I'll give this a go tomorrow.

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