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Thread: Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

  1. #351
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    Dave, did you ever sort out how to mount the PCM?
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    I take it that harness is tied into the factory setup in lieu of building it all from scratch?.
    is it sealed? Like watertight?
    That would be much cleaner than my current proposed relay/fuse designs. Hard to justify the extra cash without an added feature.
    I think it's set up for underhood install. I ordered it on Thursday, I'll post some pictures when I get it.

    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    If you have a pick-n-pull nearby or have access to a parts car, the three relays that are on the outside of the under-hood fuse box just clip to the box (which I recall learning the hard way).

    You can easily unclip all three and cut-back some of the wire from the OE harness and then integrate them back into your wiring.

    They are located under a black plastic cover. Pictured on the top, right side of the fuse box (Fuel Pump, Main and O2 Heater relays):


    I was considering going this route, but I think the other relay box may be a cleaner setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    Dave, did you ever sort out how to mount the PCM?
    No, haven't messed with it yet. Was considering lining the bottom of the compartment with rubber strips, then using one of the rubber feet that I bought for the radiator support to lock down the top of it. Going to make my own cover for the compartment as well out of aluminum, as the wiring is set up to exit on the opposite side for the C5.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  3. #353
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    ACS style lip installed, about all I managed to get done tonight. Fitment isn't great, and it had none of the holes drilled to line up like factory, so I ended up using the self tappers that came with the lip. Front of it seems to be folded over too from how it was in the box. Guess I can't bitch too much, considering it was $99 shipped, and it's far from the worst part of the car.



    Relay box/fuse, some 2.5" and 3" exhaust bends, O2 sensors, and the 3" vbands all came in. The relay box looks to be set up really nicely. Waiting on some 1/8" aluminum plate so I can remake my cover for the DME slot, and potentially mount the relays there.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  4. #354
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    Do work, my friend!
    i get to undo one wire tomorrow in preparation for the fuse block and relay install. (Also tomorrow)
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  5. #355
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    So, looks like the big things I have left to order are:
    -Driveshaft (thinking I may go AL)
    -Catch can
    -Remainder of intake parts
    -Fan

    Did some catch can research to fully understand what they do. Every Jeep I had in the past, I always vented to atmosphere, which I'm realizing was not the correct way. Going to use this as a reference:

    http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...l#post11059703

    In terms of driveshafts, I see that some people say a 3" aluminum will work, and others claim it will rub on everything. Where exactly are people getting the rubbing? I like the idea of the weight savings with the aluminum.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  6. #356
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    Mine rubbed on the ebrake cables where the metal sheath goes into the body. If you space the subframe down it would probably work ok.

  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    Mine rubbed on the ebrake cables where the metal sheath goes into the body. If you space the subframe down it would probably work ok.
    3" aluminum? What did you run for mounts?
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  8. #358
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    Yes 3" aluminum. I ran Nash mounts. I don't think the interference had a lot to do with the mounts, as I spaced the trans down (significantly) at one point and still had the issue. Spacing the subframe down made a significant difference. I ended up going with a 2.75" steel driveline, issue was solved.

  9. #359
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    I have a 3" aluminum DS and it doesn't touch anything. That's not to say it won't rub something when the driveline and car move around during driving.

    but so far, it clears just fine.

    text me later and I'll take some pics. The car is way up in the air so it's easy to slide under real quick.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  10. #360
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    Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    I have a 3" aluminum DS and it doesn't touch anything. That's not to say it won't rub something when the driveline and car move around during driving.

    but so far, it clears just fine.

    text me later and I'll take some pics. The car is way up in the air so it's easy to slide under real quick.
    If you have solid bushings or stiff poly bushings you might be ok. My car had the stock 120k rubber junk. This is another idea for the O.P.

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    If you have solid bushings or stiff poly bushings you might be ok. My car had the stock 120k rubber junk. This is another idea for the O.P.
    All of my bushings in the rear are stiff poly and have less than 10K on them except the subframe. Those are powerflex of unknown age and mileage.

    when it all comes out next winter for the cage, all bushings will be replaced with solid aluminum.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  12. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by unnatrl View Post
    If you have solid bushings or stiff poly bushings you might be ok. My car had the stock 120k rubber junk. This is another idea for the O.P.
    All of the bushings in the rear suspension are new. Subframe and diff bushings are the hardest poly that AKG makes. Thinking I may be able to get away with the aluminum driveshaft. Were you only experiencing rubbing when accelerating?
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  13. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    All of the bushings in the rear suspension are new. Subframe and diff bushings are the hardest poly that AKG makes. Thinking I may be able to get away with the aluminum driveshaft. Were you only experiencing rubbing when accelerating?
    It was only under hard acceleration. The bushings will probably work out ok. If not, McMaster Carr sells some very thick washers. I put one on the top side of my bushings when the poly ones went in (between the body and upper bushing). I was adjusting pinion angle, but the same idea could help with driveline to tunnel clearance.

  14. #364
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    Harness tidied up some. Had to splice in the rear O2 connectors, since I'm running (or going to attempt to run) C5 rear O2's. Moved everything that needs powered back to the passenger side so it can be set up in the relay box. Pulled all the A/C wiring for the time being, and started sorting out the OBD2 connector as well. Sorry about the really blurry picture.


    Started on the ECU cover. The C5 harness is shaped in a way where it makes sense to exit on the passenger side of the DME compartment, so I started making my own cover out of 1/8" aluminum. Went with AL because I haven't messed with it much yet, and wanted to learn.

    And the opening for the wires. First time using the spool gun, going to get after it some more tomorrow. True boogersnots, plus some bonus burn through.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  15. #365
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    More on the PCM cover. Going to mount the relay box off the front as well. Probably will bedline all of this once I clean it up more.

    Cleaned up some, filled in the hole I made yesterday with the spool gun.


    Proof that I can make a mess out of a different kind of metal. Expanding my horizons.


    Where the relay box will go. Wiring harness will go around the cover on the left side. Tray for the relay box is drilled and tapped for 10-32 screws.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  16. #366
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    how did you mount your heater valve? i have yet to mount mine. (partially because i can start/run without heat...partially because i just haven't decided how to make the bracket.)
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  17. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    how did you mount your heater valve? i have yet to mount mine. (partially because i can start/run without heat...partially because i just haven't decided how to make the bracket.)
    Made a U shaped bracket for it, then mounted it to the SAP tray. I'll send you a picture later today.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  18. #368
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    Got the cover most of the way sorted out. Still needs some finish work. Didn't get to spend as much time at the shop as I wanted to today.




    After some finish work.


    Also, my buddy is selling these Ford 351W mounts he built. Convinced him a Windsor would be dumb and a Coyote would be cool for his '49. So if anyone knows a guy that knows a guy that needs some mounts, let me know and I'll tell this guy.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  19. #369
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    Worked on it a few minutes tonight, first up was redoing the upper radiator mounts slightly so they could be tucked under the euro radiator duct in a different way, and be mounted independently.


    Measured for the driveshaft, going to go with a 44.5" aluminum, 3" diameter I think.

    Also started to work on how I'm going to mount the PCM, may need to open up the cubby slightly. Used foam tape on the bottom of it for shock absorption, but it didn't stay on long once I maneuvered it into place and twisted it 90* in the cubby. Going to use a rubber isolator to clamp down the top I think, something like the setup I concocted below.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  20. #370
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    Driveshaft ordered, 44.5" x 3" aluminum from Coleman Racing with 1310 U joints on either end. $275 shipped.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  21. #371
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    That's a deal!
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  22. #372
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    '10 X5, '98 M3 - 302
    Oh damn! I think I'll order one from them too.

  23. #373
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    I should specify- 1310 yokes, no U joints included as far as I know.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  24. #374
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    http://www.colemanracing.com/Drive-S...HDC-P6221.aspx

    The description says it comes with u joints. That's why I'm thinking I'll go this route. I still need to source the JTR adapter and a slip yoke for the t5. Locally I can't find a shop that will do that price for a aluminum shaft.

  25. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by ponchiz318 View Post
    http://www.colemanracing.com/Drive-S...HDC-P6221.aspx

    The description says it comes with u joints. That's why I'm thinking I'll go this route. I still need to source the JTR adapter and a slip yoke for the t5. Locally I can't find a shop that will do that price for a aluminum shaft.
    Even better. Got the tracking, it should be here Tuesday, which means exhaust can be started as well.

    Finalized the PCM mounting today. Ended up overlooking the fact that I had the plug direction reversed, so I mounted it with the flat side up. Drilled a 1/4" hole in the cowl, and used one of the rubber isolators as an adjustable hold down, and some foam on the bottom of the PCM to isolate it there as well. The only intrusion into the cowl is below:


    Also put the hood on. It has a different level of filth than the rest of the car.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

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