i do not envy you right now. good luck, it looks like you know what your doing.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Here's a good tip I was given; I assume you're deleting the rear O2 sensors? And more than likely, the stock harness length for the front sensors will not be long enough to reach your front O2s. This will require either splicing the front O2 wires or purchasing O2 harness extensions. An easier solution is to take the rear O2 leads you removed from the harness and use them in place of the front O2 leads. The stock rear leads are longer and should be long enough to reach your front O2 sensors. Just make note of the different wire colors.
I did this on my E40 harness and took it one step further. The connectors for the front and rear O2's are different, meaning, there are different part numbers for front and rear O2 sensors. I depinned the connectors and used the stock front connectors on the rear harness wires. This way, you won't have to remember that you're using rear O2's as fronts when it comes time to buy replacement sensors.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 05-26-2019 at 02:40 PM.
A little more progress. Finished the conversion for the DBC stuff on the harness side and removed the plugs from the MAF and IAT in order to adapt to the truck 85mm.
Here's where we left off tonight. Swapped the MAF plug and TPS/IAC locations in terms of how they route around the intake manifold. Probably going to run the MAF wiring down the passenger side of the bay. Need to figure out the wiring for the 145a truck alternator, and how the starter wiring needs to be set up.
And I need help. Anyone have C5 pinouts? I need to know what these three plugs are. Seems like the one on the right is the C100, but it's different than F body stuff, but seems to combine a lot of the C1xx and C2xx connectors from those harnesses.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Ended up finding none of the info I needed for the connectors before I went back to the shop this morning, so I worked backwards from the connectors and figured out what all my wires were that way. I'll attach the spreadsheets I made. Again, these are the C101(?) and other connectors to the body for a 1999 Corvette with a T56.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...zlpVE5GX1ZOSjA
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
I always wondered why everyone seems to have a picture in their build of a massive rat's nest of wiring, and why people didn't keep it neater. Turns out I'm no better.
Going to solder the pink power wires for the injectors for each bank together into a heavier gauge to simplify some of the wiring, which is why those are all pulled forward. VSS wiring needs to be extended, due to the Corvette's T56 mounting. MAF needs a plug on the end, TPS needs to be reworked, and I need to figure out what exactly I need to do for alternator wiring with the 145A truck alternator.
Threw the 8.5" wheel on the front with the 10mm spacer. Looks like it's going to be a little past flush with the fender with a 245 on it.
My to-do list for the wiring is also a work in progress, kind of like my handwriting.
Also tightened up the motor mounts at the block side, and threw some screws I ordered from FCP in on the driver's side fender liner so I could cross something off the list.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
For the switch you can use euro fog light switch. You can see picture in my thread at the end of post 1: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...3#post26052053
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Good idea, I'll have to sit in the car tonight and see if I like the position. Guessing I won't be using the bar much unless I'm driving late night or in remote spots, so I'm thinking I'll want it in a place where it's easy to get to if I'm driving in a more relaxed position. My parents live in Burlington, VT, and aftermarket lights are extremely useful when driving up there to keep from having a windshield full of venison.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Messed around with the harness some more. Loomed some of the plugs on the passenger side of the motor that I knew weren't going to need to move, and wired up the truck MAF. Merged the pink injector wires into 16 gauge wires, using two on each bank. Also extended the wires for the VSS, need to figure out the exact length on those though since the C5 harness went to a plug for all the trans stuff.
Tough to see here, but the MAF, MAP, CKPS and cam sensor are done.
Close up:
My strategy for these was to document and unpin the connector, slide heat shrink all the way to where the wire bundle meets the rest of the harness, then slide over the braided loom. I then add heat shrink again over the end of the loom, then put the connector back on, and use my heat gun to shrink everything. Seems to be coming out okay so far, just time consuming.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
are you just stuffing the PCM in the DME location?
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
I was gonna go the same route, bought the loom and all, just got to lazy to rewire the factory harness and went with an aftermarket stand alone from psi conversions.
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Ls2 e36 sedan
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Not much progress this weekend due to the holidays. Messed with the harness a little bit more today. Removed the DME bracket from the firewall. Going to make a cover that has an exit on the opposite side for the wiring, because that's how the C5 stuff is set up.
Loomed a couple more of the connectors.
Spent a good chunk of time cleaning and reorganizing too, this is the after picture. Still a lot of work to do here.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Must have an oil burner - remember those days from CT. Had two just like that in my basement.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/krallopian/darthSigTest2_zpsn6zkw5id.jpg[/URL][URL="http://www.facebook.com/pages/DFW7-Dallas-Fort-Worth-BMW-7-Series-Club/300942239566"]DFW7 on Facebook/URL]
"The Last Great e38" 2001 i Sport - Born'd on date 1/01 Cosmos/Grey - 32.8K miles - 2 1/2 " Custom Exhaust, Center “X”over , Modified OEM rear bumper, M5 style trunk spoiler, M6 OEM wheels, M3 Steering wheel with working paddle shift & CF trim, Bi-Xenon upgrade, 13mm Rear sway bar added, SS brake lines and bronze bushings, Cross drilled rotors and painted calipers, Akebono pads, Zionsville aluminum radiator & exp. tank with electric fan, Sprint Booster, BluTooth conversion, MKIV Nav., Custom wood cupholder, DUDMD Tune, Orien V2.5 LED Angel Eyes, Evans waterless. Recently added grey faced //M5 Cluster - all gauges functioning. Changed the grey carpet to black and topped off with GG Bailey front/rear mats[/SIZE]
The shop space and building we rent is oil heat. We get stuck with both tanks taking up our floor space, but get to share an inside wall, so we get to steal some of the heat.
Got the PCM flashed today by a guy near where I work, Slowhawk Performance. Should be enough to get it running, but will likely need a dyno tune.
EDIT: He also switch the operating system to match a late 4th gen F body, seeing as I have the LS6 intake, and am converted to DBC.
Last edited by squashman702; 12-28-2016 at 08:10 AM.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Finished the radiator mounts today, uses 1.5"x0.125" aluminum flat stock to make them, along with some anti-vibration feet to actually sit on the radiator and clamp the top of it in place. Held it down with the body screws used for the radiator, but I'll probably knock out the plastic pieces and use regular hardware to clamp everything in place a little better.
With the euro radiator cover installed.
Intake clearance, over a half an inch between the clamp for the MAF and the radiator.
Mounts are almost entirely hidden with the cover on.
Also looked at my radiator hoses again once everything was in place, going to have to do some hunting at the parts store, as neither of the F body hoses I bought will work like I want them to without cutting and splicing them. Also installed the delrin clutch pedal bushings I bought from Garagistic, and fought with trying to get the return spring that was missing in there as well. No pictures of that, and anyone who has messed with the pedal assemblies knows why.
Kind of took a break from wiring for the day. Thinking I'm going to end up using one of these since I'm missing my factory relays anyway, and want to run my fan off the PCM. Any downside?
http://www.currentperformance.com/sh...erelay-module/
Also, what did people do to actually mount the PCM in the car?
Last edited by squashman702; 12-29-2016 at 09:11 PM.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
I take it that harness is tied into the factory setup in lieu of building it all from scratch?.
is it sealed? Like watertight?
That would be much cleaner than my current proposed relay/fuse designs. Hard to justify the extra cash without an added feature.
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
If you have a pick-n-pull nearby or have access to a parts car, the three relays that are on the outside of the under-hood fuse box just clip to the box (which I recall learning the hard way).
You can easily unclip all three and cut-back some of the wire from the OE harness and then integrate them back into your wiring.
They are located under a black plastic cover. Pictured on the top, right side of the fuse box (Fuel Pump, Main and O2 Heater relays):
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 12-30-2016 at 08:17 AM.
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