always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Yeah, they make the piece crazy rigid. My buddy bought a full set for his '49 Ford F1 build (he has the other half of the shop), so that has worked out well for me so far. I think I've used them more than he has.
Here's his build for anyone interested:
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=93274
Last edited by squashman702; 12-04-2016 at 09:46 PM.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Haha, I'll be the first to say that I am far from an expert in this stuff.
Shop is smaller than it looks- we're working with about 900 square feet, and we like to leave the end with the door open so we can pull DD's in and out for more routine stuff. We were working out of a barn that was far from weather tight on my buddy's farm before, which was a decent space, but had about half of the square footage, no heat, and poor lighting, so this is a big change for us. The tool collections are about 10 years in the making; and we've kind of planned who buys what in terms of the bigger purchases. Stand up drill press is next, and I'd like a bender as well.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Nutsert plates are welded in. Multiple tacks instead of running a bead to keep the heat down.
Radiator on the rubber hose mounts, radiator support mocked up.
Power steering pressure line is in. Wrapped to protect it from rubbing on the alternator. Had to wait for a 45 degree fitting coming off the rack because I had my friend position the lower fitting clocked in the wrong direction. Whoops.
Started to get the power steering cooler into position as well.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
Finished up my power steering cooler lines. Added dimples to one of the vertical sides of the radiator support. My measuring skills bring the suck, hence the off centered holes.
Ran out of time to do the other side tonight; this also stopped progress:
That's one of the bottom plates for the press. Split in half (in quite the dramatic fashion) pressing the second dimple die in. It's a 20T Harbor Freight press that's a couple of years old. I got lucky I didn't get hit with anything, especially because I wasn't wearing safety glasses or any other PPE (I almost always do), and I'm lucky nothing hit my buddy Pat who I share the shop with, who was working about 15 feet away. Obviously a failure like this can't be predicted, so always be on your A game.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
we have the same HF 20T press and same junky plates in our shop at work. they've both worked flawlessly for over 8 years.
i never invest tons of faith in HF anything. but sometimes they get it right.
(we won't discuss my 10+ year old HF 1/2" impact that is still going strong and used nearly every day.)
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Tonight, exciting things. Rear sway bar is in with new endlinks, hardware, and bushings. I consider this an accomplishment seeing as it hasn't had a rear sway installed since I've owned it.
D/S front corner all reassembled.
TRE's and ball joints tight, LCA tightened at the rear.
Shifter cover and radiator support mostly painted.
And my to-do list. Bad because it's long, good because this was literally everything that I can think of that I have left to do.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
kicking ass and taking names!
you're gonna be done way before me at this rate.
(i went to PRI today instead of working on my car.)
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Trying to make progress. The list is intimidating, but it feels good to cross stuff off.
First project of the day: getting the trans tunnel cover done. Made a couple of stops on the way to the shop to try and find supplies. Ended up getting some weather stripping from Advance, a Mr. Gasket universal boot, and some leftover foam from mounting a truck cap. Also lined the bottom with some more reflective tape that I had.
Installed in the car, seems to seal pretty decently. Used some self tappers on both ends.
Front half of the console installed, gauge panel mocked up.
Back half installed. Installed the glove box as well.
Front clip most of the way back on. Radiator support isn't in yet, sprayed a couple more coats of paint on that today. I need another ZKW to match the junkyard driver's side light. Ordered some rubber isolators to make my top mounts and the euro radiator cover as well. Once those are in, I'll make the top mounts. Also ordered a replacement inner fender for the passenger side because mine was trashed.
Found out I had a spare X20 plug, so I swapped everything over on the ABS wiring as well, so now it can actually connect.
Last edited by squashman702; 12-10-2016 at 10:29 PM.
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
how is that tunnel cover fixed to the tunnel? is it just sitting on top?
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
The only thing with these boots is that they are good for about year or one and a half years and then the rubber just disentegrates.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Dave,
it just occurred to me that the fuse blocks i bought for my harness aren't weather proof.
are you mounting your PCM in the DME location and then putting the fuses/relays in sealed boxes on the battery tray? or are you putting everything inside something?
i originally thought to put the PCM in the DME location, then just run the fuses/relays inside the car, but then i thought about how awful that would be to pull back out if i needed to pull the motor. (without just unplugging every single sensor)
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
awesome.
thanks!
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
My buddy and I started on the harness today. So far, we purged a bunch of the junk. Wiring is not my forte, so I'm going to have a bunch of questions.
It's a 1999 C5 harness from a T56 car, converting to truck MAF, and DBC, running a PCM I got out of a Silverado in the junkyard with the red/blue harness.
Here's what we eliminated so far, let me know if you see issues.
Blue connector:
Pin 14: Throttle actuator control serial data
Pin 15: Throttle actuator control serial data
Pin 17: Transmission range signal B
Pin 18: Transmission range signal C
Pin 25: O2 sensor low bank 2 sensor 2
Pin 28: O2 sensor low bank 1 sensor 2
Pin 32: PRND A input signal
Pin 33: TCC brake switch
Pin 34: PRND P input signal
Pin 38: Powertrain induced chassis pitch signal
Pin 53: Transmission temp sensor ground
Pin 62: Extended travel brake switch signal
Pin 65: O2 signal high bank 2 sensor 2
Pin 68: O2 signal high bank 1 sensor 2
Pin 72: PRND B input signal
Pin 79: 2nd and 3rd gear block out solenoid
Red connector:
Pin 2: TCC control solenoid
Pin 4: AIR solenoid relay control
Pin 6: Trans fluid pressure control solenoid low
Pin 8: Trans fluid pressure control solenoid low
Pin 9: Fuel pump relay control
Pin 36: Air pump relay control
Pin 42: TCC enable circuit
Pin 44: Reverse inhibit solenoid control
Pin 47: 1 to 4 upshift lamp
Pin 48: Transmission shift solenoid A
Pin 50: Vehicle speed output circuit
Pin 51: Trans temp sensor signal
Pin 54: Fuel level sensor signal
Pin 62: PRND C input signal
Pin 63: Transmission range signal A
Pin 73: Fuel level sensor signal
Need to do some research on the fan setup, my buddy is thinking it will be much simpler to run the fan off an external controller versus involving the PCM. Any downside to this?
Also, I assume I want to keep the knock sensors?
Instergrams: @davemakepictar
looks good to me.
absolutely keep the knock sensors.
- - - Updated - - -
are you guys removing circuits from the harness like i've done so far?
or are you completely undoing the whole harness from the red/blue and then re-routing/wrapping and re-pinning the red/blue?
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
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