Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

[Jaxchrisfla]

My obsession with AN fittings and lines has taken a toll on my build. Not one rubber one left except for the waterpump loop and bottom hose on the expansion tank.

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[BrittVail]

Nice build thread...getting ready to start my L33 in Jan.

[Mark Aubele]

looks good!
i've been wondering how much of a PITA the OE steam lines are. looks like i'll be going with a 'fancy' kit as well.

Late to the party but if it helps anyone, I knocked the ribbing off the bottom of the LS6 with a hammer and a chisel. I wanted to keep the steam tubes front and rear. Ghetto but it works and took 15 minutes.

[squashman702]

Late to the party but if it helps anyone, I knocked the ribbing off the bottom of the LS6 with a hammer and a chisel. I wanted to keep the steam tubes front and rear. Ghetto but it works and took 15 minutes.

I started to dremel it off on mine, but wasn't happy with the results, so I went with the Trickflow kit. In hindsight, it would have probably been cheaper to go with OEM LS6 parts, since I had to buy some extra fittings for the Trickflow setup.

[doktor b]

i got my steam kit from fassterLLC off of ebay. i actually mocked it up yesterday. fits decently well if you're not going to put a vent in the top of the water pump. (which i'm not. at least not at first.) i would have designed it a little differently, but it would have cost a lot more any other way.

and my last big turbo vw build has cured me of AN obsession. it was to the point where the guys at Earl's knew me by voice when i called to order something. so much money in hoses/fittings.

[Jaxchrisfla]

i got my steam kit from fassterLLC off of ebay. i actually mocked it up yesterday. fits decently well if you're not going to put a vent in the top of the water pump. (which i'm not. at least not at first.) i would have designed it a little differently, but it would have cost a lot more any other way.

and my last big turbo vw build has cured me of AN obsession. it was to the point where the guys at Earl's knew me by voice when i called to order something. so much money in hoses/fittings.

I bought damn near all my AN stuff from fassters. I bought an extra fitting or two to modify the steam kit to go to the waterpump.


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[squashman702]

Had to go to NJ yesterday for a work meeting today, but got some time in yesterday morning.

Nascar wires came in. There's a tiny bit of air space in between the boot and the primary.



FCAB bracket and front control arm blasted.


Meyle ball joints pressed in.


Brake backing plate blasted and painted, control arm and bracket bedlined. Ended up breaking down the driver's side completely since the bearing was smoked, and I broke the ABS sensor. Still waiting for Chip to call me back about my new paint booth.




Passenger side CA out, outer ball joint fought me just as bad as the passenger side. This will get the same treatment as the driver's side.



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Also, someone buy these, so I can buy more parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282248190326...84.m1555.l2649

/shameless plug

[squashman702]

Did the other control arm today. Even managed to do it right, pretty pissed at myself that I managed to mess that up on the driver's side.

[squashman702]

Nascar wires in on the problem cylinders.


Insulation boot over it, still touches the primary.


New bushings in the clutch pedal, put this most of the way back together. No idea where the return spring went, so I'll need to order that next time I get something from FCP. EDIT: Looks like it's actually some sort of helper spring missing, not the return spring. I'm guessing the pedal is sticking to the floor because the master is dry.




Also found that the driver's seat was missing a bolt in the rear where the back flips forward, so I replaced that as well.

[squashman702]

What should I be getting done when I get the PCM flashed? I have a junkyard truck PCM, and I should probably get this done sooner rather than later so I'm not waiting on it. So far, I know I need:

-VATS deleted
-Skip shift deleted
-Rear O2's deleted
-Set for a 6 cylinder tach
-Revisions for the 85mm truck MAF
-Tune for the bolt ons

Anything I'm missing? Suggestions for tuners? What should I expect to spend?

[doktor b]

What should I be getting done when I get the PCM flashed? I have a junkyard truck PCM, and I should probably get this done sooner rather than later so I'm not waiting on it. So far, I know I need:

-VATS deleted
-Skip shift deleted
-Rear O2's deleted
-Set for a 6 cylinder tach
-Revisions for the 85mm truck MAF
-Tune for the bolt ons

Anything I'm missing? Suggestions for tuners? What should I expect to spend?

this list looks like mine except i'm going SD instead of MAF and i've deleted the reverse lockout solenoid.
you're keeping EGR? or no?

[OKsweetrides]

Delete the reverse lockout. It's an insurance policy from gremlins. haha

[squashman702]

this list looks like mine except i'm going SD instead of MAF and i've deleted the reverse lockout solenoid.
you're keeping EGR? or no?

No idea how I'd plumb EGR back in with CX headers, so I should probably delete that as well.

Delete the reverse lockout. It's an insurance policy from gremlins. haha

Good call on the reverse lockout from both of you guys.

Had to chop some parts out of the crossmember. The trans was resting on it on the driver's side.



Trans tunnel looks like it'll need some more cutting as well now.

[doktor b]

Good call on the reverse lockout from both of you guys.

did you see how i deleted the reverse lockout solenoid? i removed the solenoid, cut everything away from the mounting flange and had it welded shut. then, i shortened the spring, and put the spring and piston back in the now considerably smaller piece. works great so far, except i need to cut the spring just a smidge more. i'll send a link or a picture saturday when i'm back at job2.

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OMG that pic is huge.
but it's what i found in a super quick google search. feel free to delete that, or i can, after you get the idea.

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http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,452,page=19

that first, blocked photo is found here.

[squashman702]

Starter and inspection plate on the passenger side are in.

Fuel line is made and installed, along with the DEI heat sleeve. Ended up bending the inlet on the rail up slightly per doktor's orders.

[doktor b]

awesome. i try to keep things as easy as possible.

[squashman702]

awesome. i try to keep things as easy as possible.

Way easier. I couldn't find enough reassuring stuff about ebay fuel rails and didn't want to drop $200 on FAST/Holley/etc rails, even though they look way better than factory stuff. Maybe down the road.

[squashman702]

Fixed my ball joint mistake.


And a pic of the daily, because I washed it for once.

[squashman702]

No pictures today, but got the bellhousing bolts torqued. Had to drop the motor and crossmembers down to access them. Also got the shifter in place, and enlarged the hole for the shifter itself. Mocked up a cardboard template for the cover for the hole, then realized I used the steel I bought for this piece on the inner fender. Also messed with the power steering line some, need a 45* fitting and a different one for the pump, and that should be set.

[squashman702]

Ordered a radiator today, Northern Radiators piece for a SB Chevy. 26x16x3.25", we'll see if I can make it work. Went with slightly smaller than stock dimensions to help clear the cap, since I'm switching to open loop.

Also got in my fittings for the p/s pump, and rack for the cooler side, as well as the T56 yoke, 3" to 2.5" exhaust reducers, a couple of 2.5" flex pipes, a blockoff plate for the bellhousing on the driver's side, and spark plug wire separators for the brake lines.

[doktor b]

Ordered a radiator today, Northern Radiators piece for a SB Chevy. 26x16x3.25", we'll see if I can make it work. Went with slightly smaller than stock dimensions to help clear the cap, since I'm switching to open loop.

Also got in my fittings for the p/s pump, and rack for the cooler side, as well as the T56 yoke, 3" to 2.5" exhaust reducers, a couple of 2.5" flex pipes, a blockoff plate for the bellhousing on the driver's side, and spark plug wire separators for the brake lines.

got any info on that blockoff plate?
there are definitely some windows in my setup that i'd like to close.

[squashman702]

got any info on that blockoff plate?
there are definitely some windows in my setup that i'd like to close.

Just a factory piece, I'll let you know tomorrow if it fits.

[doktor b]

Just a factory piece, I'll let you know tomorrow if it fits.

i found two of them on Hawks Motorsports.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...on-dust-cover/
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...on-dust-cover/

these guys, yeah?

[squashman702]

i found two of them on Hawks Motorsports.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...on-dust-cover/
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-0...on-dust-cover/

these guys, yeah?

Yeah, already had the factory starter side cover, then I found the driver's side on ebay. Hate to say it, but they seem like a pretty poor design for keeping garbage out of a transmission. The piece I had on my AX15 in my Jeep was metal and one piece that covered most of the bottom of the bellhousing. Seems like a much better design despite its age.

[bimerok]

Any update on Bellhousing bolt holes misalignment?