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Thread: Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

  1. #226
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    that bracket looks great! i'll be paying close attention to how you get that set up.

    P.S. your belt routing looks good to me.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  2. #227
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    Any particular reason you're relocating your coils?
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  3. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Any particular reason you're relocating your coils?
    One of the compromises with the CXRacing headers/mounts is that the primary on the rear cylinder on the driver's side loops back towards the front of the motor. There's no good way to run a wire over the top of it to the plug without the wire melting. This routing also makes the cylinder in front of it very tight. The tradeoff is that the ABS pump doesn't have to move, and there's better steering shaft clearance.

  4. #229
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    I see. Good to know info!
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  5. #230
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    I found some guys from the sloppy mechanics Facebook page that are running plug wires from old Nascar setups and can be found on eBay for a decent price. I tried running msd fbody wires but were not going to work with that primary looped like mentioned. The Nascar set are a out four inches longer, and clear great. Tapatalk is being a dick at the moment trying to load pics but I'll get a couple up when I can
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  6. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaxchrisfla View Post
    I found some guys from the sloppy mechanics Facebook page that are running plug wires from old Nascar setups and can be found on eBay for a decent price. I tried running msd fbody wires but were not going to work with that primary looped like mentioned. The Nascar set are a out four inches longer, and clear great. Tapatalk is being a dick at the moment trying to load pics but I'll get a couple up when I can
    Sounds like another good solution I may have to look into. Were they used with coils in the stock location? I know the MSD truck wires are longer as well, but I think the size of the boot may be an issue on one of the cylinders.

  7. #232
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    Pretty easy to hang that coil off the former traction control bracket (At least I think that's what that was for right?)


    Track days @ ApexObsessed.com

  8. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by pMak26 View Post
    Pretty easy to hang that coil off the former traction control bracket (At least I think that's what that was for right?)


    That's the TC bracket, yes. Which wires are those? Did you have issues with them resting on the primary in the third cylinder from the front?

    So, here's where I'm at with the ignition issue.

    MSD car wires not long enough to go around the primary.


    Touches the primary.


    Rear cylinder. This would probably work out okay with a longer wire.


    Basically 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch between the primary and the wire.


    Coil end of the boot touches the primary on the 3rd cylinder back with the coil in the stock location, no way to rotate the boot around it either.


    Remote bracket mocked up. The blue wire is a Taylor 7.5MM that was on the motor when I got it. Those have a shorter boot on the plug side which barely touched the header. Would probably need to get at least one wire that had a 45* end on the plug side if I do go this route.


    Another option, spacing out one coil by 3/4" of an inch or so. This creates clearance around the primary, but would require a longer wire, ideally with a 90* on the coil side, and a 45* boot on the plug side. I think 3/4" may be pushing it for clearance too, as I'd think the wire would still be facing some substantial heat issues with the wire routed above the header.


    Did manage to swap the glass on the broken driver's mirror. Used a knockoff from ebay.uk that was around $25 shipped. Glass was a little smaller than OE and I had to ditch the wiring for the heating element because it was in a different location on the replacement and the wire wouldn't reach. This car won't be seeing cold weather once it's done, so this is a non-issue (hopefully).


  9. #234
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    MSD f-body coil wires with heat sleeves. Yes I had the same issue with #3 hitting the primary if I tried to mount it in the stock location. I've had no issues with hanging the coil off the TC bracket. I did run grounding straps back to the head just in case. I'm told it doesn't really need it, but meh, makes me feel better.
    Track days @ ApexObsessed.com

  10. #235
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    One of the front calipers keeps sticking at highway speeds on the M3/4/5, so I messed with that for a bit.

    Afterwards, got the soft lines extended for the ABS pump, and the fuse box put mostly back together. Tractor Supply was my race parts HQ today for the hose and clamps I needed.




    Studly wonderballs in the rear. Had to have an issue with one spot on the flange which required busting out the thread restorer and ultimately the tap. Nothing goes easy.

  11. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Nothing goes easy.
    story of the e36.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  12. #237
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    Ordered 6AN fittings and line for the filter to the rail. What does everyone from the BMW hard lines to the C5 regulator? Normal rubber hose? Do you flare the hard lines or do hose clamps work well enough? The setup I ordered from Speedway came with three of the new style Russell fittings to adapt to 6AN lines on both sides, but it seems like overkill to run them on the feed and return side.

  13. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Sounds like another good solution I may have to look into. Were they used with coils in the stock location? I know the MSD truck wires are longer as well, but I think the size of the boot may be an issue on one of the cylinders.
    I used them with coils in stock location and they worked out great. A tad long but get the job done much better than the fbody length wires.



    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  14. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Ordered 6AN fittings and line for the filter to the rail. What does everyone from the BMW hard lines to the C5 regulator? Normal rubber hose? Do you flare the hard lines or do hose clamps work well enough? The setup I ordered from Speedway came with three of the new style Russell fittings to adapt to 6AN lines on both sides, but it seems like overkill to run them on the feed and return side.
    Used these quick connect lines I found at advanced in the oem replacement section. Cut the bmw hard line a couple inches behind them and then slipped a piece of fuel system hose over both ends and put on fuel line clamps. Worked great.



    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Jaxchrisfla; 11-05-2016 at 02:58 AM.
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  15. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaxchrisfla View Post
    I used them with coils in stock location and they worked out great. A tad long but get the job done much better than the fbody length wires.

    Chris, are those just aftermarket truck wires? looks like the easiest solution. and anyone following my build knows that easy is my jam.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  16. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    Chris, are those just aftermarket truck wires? looks like the easiest solution. and anyone following my build knows that easy is my jam.
    Not sure what theyre base origins were. If you search nascar plug wires you'll find a few sets under or around $50. They're heat shielding is a bit thicker than the msd's, and I think they're 8mm or maybe bigger inside.

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  17. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaxchrisfla View Post
    Not sure what theyre base origins were. If you search nascar plug wires you'll find a few sets under or around $50. They're heat shielding is a bit thicker than the msd's, and I think they're 8mm or maybe bigger inside.

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    got it.
    thanks!
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  18. #243
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    Settled on a final iteration for the coil bracket. This flips the problem coil 90* and should work without any extending of the harness. It'll need a plug wire with a 90* end on the coil side, and a 45* on the boot. The rear coil will stay in the stock location but I'll run a longer wire.


    One of my new MSD wires pulled apart as well, looks like a bad crimp on the coil side. A little frustrating.


  19. #244
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    Found some used NASCAR wires on ebay, $35 shipped. Should be here shortly. Hopefully that can wrap up the coil interference issue.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  20. #245
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    Relocating the coil solved one problem but created another. Anyone have suggestions for fuel rails? Need something that feeds at the rear. Cheaper the better.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  21. #246
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    The cheapest way is to use OEM type of fitting and leave the rail alone. From that pic it looks like it would fit no problem.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  22. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    The cheapest way is to use OEM type of fitting and leave the rail alone. From that pic it looks like it would fit no problem.
    I have all of the fittings and hose to run a 6AN feed from the regulator, so I'm not sure that would work with a stock style fitting. Looks like I should be able to get a few bucks back from selling the stock rails as well, so this may not be as expensive as I thought.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  23. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Relocating the coil solved one problem but created another. Anyone have suggestions for fuel rails? Need something that feeds at the rear. Cheaper the better.
    Something like this with a female on one end would probably get you a tighter turn and away from the coil pack.

    Last edited by Jaxchrisfla; 11-11-2016 at 10:50 PM.
    Ls2 e36 sedan

  24. #249
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    why not just grab the end of the OE rail inlet and bend it up? that'll clear and no need to buy anything.
    take off the aluminum fittings and slip the box end of a wrench over the steel...little pry...result.
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  25. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    why not just grab the end of the OE rail inlet and bend it up? that'll clear and no need to buy anything.
    take off the aluminum fittings and slip the box end of a wrench over the steel...little pry...result.
    Not a bad idea.

    Did some stuff today. Made the soft lines to the fuel filter, had to cut a lot more of the return line off due to it rotting where it sat in the bracket. I figured it'd be better to take care of the issue now.



    Modified the clip a little bit by removing some of the plastic guts so that the rubber line would fit through without getting destroyed.


    Pressed out the ball joints and FCAB bushing on the driver's side. Got a little exciting with the 20T press and the torch. Knuckle is off because the nut seized to the top of the outer ball joint. Cut it close to the knuckle like an idiot and totally ignored the taper, so I couldn't knock it out through the top. Ended up welding a 1/2" nut on the leftover part of the stud, which worked. Seems I don't go too many days on this project without firing up the Miller.



    New outer TRE's on the rack. Rack was bolted in too.


    Finally got the peanut butter back in the sammie. Had to wait on clips to put the rear panel back on after pulling it to pull the glass and replace the outside seals.


    My list of little stuff I have to get done. Note it totally ignores things like wiring.


    Got one end of the -6AN fuel line done. Need to determine routing and what I'm doing with the rail before I add on the other end. I like AN fittings. I got a pair of plastic jaws for the vise since the last time I did them for the steam lines, and it made a huge difference. Definitely worth the $15.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

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