Just as another idea to make it look nicer - you can try using 2 90* bends (one on each of the ports) and connect them with a small, straight/slightly bent piece of tube.
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
It looks like a simple problem to solve- don't get me wrong. But, there's only 5-5.5" between the center line of the two outlets. We played around with it a lot yesterday trying to come up with a better solution. I also have a 135* hose I got in today that may be able to work in that spot. Lots of funky angles.
Last edited by squashman702; 02-08-2017 at 06:34 PM.
I didn't work on this thing for a week. Shame on me.
Moved the coolant temp sensor for the PCM to the rear of the passenger side head.
Starter wire on the right, alternator to distribution block on the left. 4ga welding cable. This basically completes the "big 3" upgrade for this car.
Loomed the bank 2 injector wiring.
Didn't get a thing done tonight, had an intermittent CEL in the daily that came back again today. Looks like it's probably the upper O2 sensor in bank one. Bought one from Advance, tried to loosen the old one, and it didn't budge. Hit it with some PB, and I'll try to address it a different day. Noticed the jack point is trashed as well, got to love New England. Lifting block is level with the floor. Can't wait for the LS to be done so I can sell or part this thing.
If you can reach it, hit the O2 with a MAP torch.
That should help loosen it up.
always trying to make it lighter and faster
instant grams: doktor_b
I used a Dayco 71189 hose plus one other (OEM BMW hose) for the upper setup. The 71189 has a 90* bend, then it is offset (drops down) about an inch, then its a long straight section. Worked great for me.
How much lower is the lower connection on your rad compared to the OEM location? Mine is a few inches further down, currently I have two hoses spliced together but I found one that might fit better. Its a Dayco 71982. Switching the thermostat connection to an angled swivel connection opened up my options.
Last edited by lloydjoe; 02-20-2017 at 02:36 PM.
Here is a pic of the lower connection on the new rad with the new hose I plan on using.
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Dave, I drove my car to work yesterday.
get to it!
always trying to make it lighter and faster
instant grams: doktor_b
Pulled the passenger inner fender while the bumper was off, found about 10 pounds of dirt sitting on the bottom of the fender. Also found out that someone probably used the fender as a jack point at some point before I owned the car.
It's a fertile pasture in there, I had a maple tree sprout from mine.
2016 4Runner TEP
1995 M3 - LS2
1998 M3 - Gone
1991 M5 - Gone
1993 RS America - Gone
1995 M3 - Gone
Loomed some more of the driver's side harness today. Alternator plug was left in place in case I decide to go to a four pin regulator at some point with the DR44G.
Figured out the length and started looming the VSS and reverse lockout solenoid. Had to go back and repin 44 on the red connector, as that was pulled previously, and then extended the wires. The Current Performance box has a provision for power for the solenoid and the reverse lights, which is not pictured, but was used. Ordered a Cobra T56 reverse light switch, as the GTO T56 switch doesn't allow enough space for the plug. Since it was a C5 harness, none of this wiring existed, so I had to go back and extend all this.
Also cleaned up the dust shield for the passenger side, going to throw this and the bearing on, probably tomorrow. I have tomorrow and Friday off work, so hopefully I can knock some stuff out.
Crossed a few more things off my list today.
Trans harness almost wrapped up. Reverse light wiring not loomed due to me waiting on the Cobra T56 plug. Didn't mess too much more with wiring for today- I'll follow up with all that at the end of the post.
Got around to this, did the other side a long while ago. Glad I addressed it, everything was very dry rotted. Lots of coats of adhesive removal spray to get this junk off.
And done. Cleaned the windows and cleaned up all the adhesive remover from the side of the car, then hit it with some quick detailer for some reason.
Backing plate on, new inner dust seal installed, and fresh Moog bearing. Wheel studs, 10mm spacer, and wheel went on later.
This was I think one of the only panels I didn't have to glue when I swapped to the Modena interior. It came apart today when I did the window trim, since it all has to come out, so I Goop'd it.
Put the passenger side skirt back on. New clips on the side and on the bottom, cleaned up the rocker and inside of the skirt first.
New clips on the driver's door panel. Again, these were parts I had, but didn't install. Got it done.
Now for the wiring questions/story.
The car has started and run multiple times at this point. I think I'm getting close to the point where I want to loom the remainder of the harness, and may be close to being done changing stuff around. Left on my to-do list is:
-Clutch safety switch- need to look into how this needs to be wired.
-Fan- wiring is set up already off the Current Performance box, just need to find a fan and shroud.
-O2 sensors- Plugs are in the harness, just need to install, loom, and secure wiring under the car.
-Reverse lights- This will be completed once I get the Cobra plug.
-BMW underhood diagnostic connector (the giant round one)- Do I need this? My understanding is that it's used to diagnose issues on the body side and clear airbag lights, etc.
-Starter signal wire needs to be shortened and loomed
-Remainder of harness needs to be pulled, loomed, and reinstalled.
As of right now, the only wiring I have coming out of the X20 plug is as follows:
-Pin 8 for the CEL
-Pin 10 for the reverse lights- going straight to the switch on the trans, key on power will come from the Current Performance box
-Pin 13 for the fuel pump trigger wire
-Pin 18 for the starter wire
-Pin 20 for the tach signal
-Pin 21 for 12v power for the Current Performance box
Noticeably absent from the list are the following:
-Temp gauge- I have an aftermarket gauge since the stock BMW is more of a warning light than anything else. PCM temp sender takes up the other port on the head. Is there a spot for a third sender to easily run the gauge in the cluster?
-Oil pressure warning light- Running an aftermarket gauge for oil pressure as well, seems overkill to have the warning light too
Stuff I still need to address:
-Three wires need to be run to the rear of the car for the pressure sensor for the evap. I don't want to leave the evap venting to atmosphere, so I have the line from the tank hooked up. Will it function with just the two wires to the purge are hooked up? I know it will not pass an emissions check if plugged in without being tuned out, but cars older than 15 years do not get plugged in for inspection in MA. I bought what I thought was the sensor a while ago, but it's completely different than what the wiring diagrams I found for an F body show. Thinking I'm going to reorder the sender so I can finish that out.
-Alternator dummy light- Not sure it's needed, and I have a two pin regulator on my DR44G that I'm thinking about switching over to four pin. Probably should take care of this first.
Anything I'm missing here?
Had a bunch of weatherpack (I think?) connectors from work, so I added in a connector for the OBD2 wiring, and for the evap, so that the harness can be removed from the car without cutting anything. These were all two wire, so I had to scavenge wires from a couple of the others to make them work for the three wires in the evap harness.
And the finished product. Drilled a hole next to where the battery wiring goes into the cabin, but I was having a hard time with the grommet, so that's where I gave up last night. Apparently my boot made a cameo as well.
Also shortened the radiator neck slightly to relieve some of the stress on the silicone 90 for the upper hose. Used the crimpers to remake the bead around the tube. Reglued the foam pads on the radiator as well when the radiator was out, the adhesive seemed like it wasn't going to hold up.
Heat shrink hose clamps came in too. I dig these things. This one is over the barb I had to use in the larger heater hose.
Upper hose got some of the clamps too. Need to order a smaller one to go over the 1.25" end of the water pump. Didn't do the final install either since I still need to work out my fan setup. Might go with a pusher setup to keep the bay a little cleaner.
Ordered a Spectre swivel neck from Advance. Just as an FYI, a SB/BB Chevy neck doesn't work on a LS motor. The bolt spacing is wrong for the water pump. Couldn't really find much online about it, so I ordered one to try it as they make a 90 degree swivel. Hose angle isn't really ideal- this is with a 45* 1.5" to 1.75" adapter. Going to look and see if I can get one with longer "legs" so I have more engagement on the water neck side. The heat shrink clamps should still work in this application according to Gates.
Finally, a shameless for sale post. I have a full set of moldings for sale, for some reason I have spares. Fits coupe/vert. $150 plus shipping.