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Thread: Just another boring LS swap into an E36 M3

  1. #501
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Stuttgart, Germany
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    577
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    1997 M3 / 5.3
    Got to be a great feeling when it moved under its own power...

    Can't help you much on the issue: obviously pressure at 70+ will make the engine run rich...fouled plugs? Did a wire come loose/chaff thru with a few miles on it?

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Got to be a great feeling when it moved under its own power...

    Can't help you much on the issue: obviously pressure at 70+ will make the engine run rich...fouled plugs? Did a wire come loose/chaff thru with a few miles on it?
    I was pumped to drive it, a lot better than looking at it on jackstands for the past year plus. Couldn't beat on it too much with the fresh clutch, but it feels like it's going to be a ton of fun.

    I haven't pulled a plug yet, working on the side of the road in the city with a little pouch of tools at this point. Wire chafing somewhere in the harness is a distinct possibility, especially since it seems like it takes a few minutes for the car to start acting up, which would fall in line with a damaged wire heating up and creating resistance.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    Highly doubt you will get MAF code on bad fuel, plus it won't just randomly shut off. It would've ran like crap all the time.

    If you get code on MAF, try unplugging the MAF and drive around see if it repeats with MAF unplugged. Also, try connecting OBDII reader with live data to see if your MAP is still alive and shows reading after being connected to oil pressure switch. Both MAF and MAP are somewhat related and could be your issue.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Highly doubt you will get MAF code on bad fuel, plus it won't just randomly shut off. It would've ran like crap all the time.

    If you get code on MAF, try unplugging the MAF and drive around see if it repeats with MAF unplugged. Also, try connecting OBDII reader with live data to see if your MAP is still alive and shows reading after being connected to oil pressure switch. Both MAF and MAP are somewhat related and could be your issue.
    Car died after 10-15 seconds without the MAF the other day, but it was after it had started dying, not when it was cold.

    I went to the JY today and got a MAF off a known good engine. Symptoms didn't change, still started having issues after 10 or so minutes today when driving around in low gears.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  5. #505
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    Sep 2015
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    1997 328i
    The saga continues, cross posting this from LS1tech, sorry if this repeats some older info.

    Car appears to be running very rich to the point where it seems like the engine is flooding. It will run okay for a bit, then start to bog. Pulled the plug on cylinder 1 and it was very dark and slightly wet. Had a P1635 code, checked 5v reference at the MAP, oil pressure, and fuel tank pressure, and all checked out- I did not have A/C flashed out of the PCM when I got my base tune, and I'm guessing this code is lingering because I do not have the A/C nor the pressure sensor set up. I checked O2 sensors, and unplugging the sensors does not change how the car runs, nor does it trigger a CEL. Measuring the wires on the harness side with a voltmeter shows both the tan and purple wires putting out 4.6-4.9v. I unpinned one of the tan wires at the PCM and checked again with key on power, and the voltage disappeared.

    Any thoughts? Here's the plug.
    Last edited by squashman702; 06-21-2017 at 09:29 PM.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    FL Gulf Coast
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    How's it going?

    Tipsy

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    How's it going?

    Tipsy
    Still having the same stalling issue.

    I borrowed a scanner that can read sensor outputs, and I have yet to come up with anything that seems off while the car idles. The car has no problem idling for an extended period of time. Coolant temp sits at 195*, and there is no stalling. I replaced the C5 regulator thinking mine had maybe been defective- no change. I replaced the Aeromotive 340 with a Walbro 255 after reading that the 340 may cause issues when using a C5 regulator. This brought the fuel pressure closer to being in line, but it is still reading high at the rail with around 65-70 psi. I tried blowing air through the return line, which dropped the pressure slightly, so I'm wondering if I still have a restriction which is causing pressure to jump once the car is running for a few minutes. I need to be able to data log while the car is stalling, which I'm not sure I have the ability to do with the borrowed scanner, so I need to lean on one of my mechanic friends to help me out at this point.

    I've been parting out a couple of cars in the meantime, and working on a Wrangler as a flip, so that's been a distraction from the M3.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    737
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    1997 328i
    Car has been running better the past couple days. I was able to drive it for 10 or so minutes without issue near my shop, which was something that I could not do on the Aeromotive 340. My mechanic friend suggested we reset the PCM after looking at long term fuel trims that seemed to be way off, which was something I missed and definitely didn't think of. This seems to have cured the running issue for the time being, drove it multiple times for 20 minutes or so last night without issue. The car pulls hard and doesn't seem to be bogging like it was before. I may try to squeeze in a longer drive today, then take it to get inspected. Luckily MA is dumb, and the four year old sticker on the car matches the color for the stickers expiring in 2018, so I can probably get away with it for a bit. I still need to look into the fuel pressure issue, as I checked it yesterday, and it was still showing at 74 PSI at the rail.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Kansas
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    21
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    1995 E36 4 Door aut swap
    These Photobucket restrictions have ruined a lot of good threads photos.

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    FL Gulf Coast
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by Zanthor991 View Post
    These Photobucket restrictions have ruined a lot of good threads photos.
    There are browser extensions/plug-ins that will fix the Photobucket issue.

    Tipsy

  11. #511
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    UT
    Posts
    4,375
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    98 M3/4/5
    due tell. i need to get my threads pics back... how do we do it?
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  12. #512
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Royalest of Oaks
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    390
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    Mazda 3
    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    There are browser extensions/plug-ins that will fix the Photobucket issue.

    Tipsy
    Sure, if you always browse on a PC, but you're just fixing it for yourself and not others. If you're like me and primarily browse on your phone/tablet you're SOL.

  13. #513
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    FL Gulf Coast
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    1,205
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    Quote Originally Posted by LSxDreamer View Post
    Sure, if you always browse on a PC, but you're just fixing it for yourself and not others. If you're like me and primarily browse on your phone/tablet you're SOL.
    I understand that. I'm just offering information that others might not be aware of.

    The OP's of threads with images hosted on PB can edit each post that contains linked photos and upload those images directly to the forum. Cumbersome and time consuming but it can be done.

    Tipsy

  14. #514
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Stow, MA
    Posts
    737
    My Cars
    1997 328i
    So, long time, no update. I made a career change in May of last year, and did not find a job I wanted until October, so funds for this were not as readily available for this toy. The plus is I now work in a brewery, so I can use my beer budget for car stuff. Here's an update on some of the issues I was having with the car:

    T-56:
    Ended up getting the car driving at the end of last season. I initially had an issue with the first to second shift being near impossible. At some point, this issue changed, and I kept having issues with the car jamming in 3rd and 4th gear. Took advantage of the Tick Black Friday sale, and sent the T56 out for the GTO stage 1 rebuild at the end of December. Found out from Tick that the T56 was good minus a part of the 3-4 blocker ring missing completely, and some slight wear on the reverse gear. Put the transmission back in around the beginning of March, and everything is good so far with the 150 or so miles I've put on the car on the couple of nice days we've had in MA.

    Fuel:
    Another substantial issue I was in the process of fixing was the high fuel pressure I was experiencing at the fuel rail. Initially, I had an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump in a Rally Road sleeve. This resulted in 78-80 PSI at the rail with a C5 regulator, and factory feed and return lines to that point in the system. After some troubleshooting detailed in a few posts prior, I swapped to a Walbro 255 pump in the same setup. This dropped the pressure at the rail a few PSI to around 70-72, which made the car able to drive. Further inspection determined the restriction was in the return side of the system, specifically at the jet or siphon pump in the E36 tank. The car ran at 60 PSI with the return attached to the top of the tank but the siphon pump disconnected. Removal of a couple of screens within the siphon pump itself, and drilling out the holes to a larger size resulted in it functioning normally with a rail pressure around 60 PSI. Car feels much better now and no longer stinks of fuel from running too rich.

    Upgrades:
    I parted out a 1999 M3 convertible with a hydrolocked engine in the fall, and the owner had added Bilstein Group N coilovers. These got swapped onto my car shortly thereafter. Also, built a modified X brace for underneath the car, which actually made a noticeable difference in handling. Also, when the T56 was out, I cleaned up and re-loomed a lot of the wiring in the front clip, deleting wiring for fog lights, exterior temp sensor, A/C wiring, electric fan, etc.

    Planned:
    The M3 vert I parted also had the ECS 345mm brake kit on it, so that will be going on once the wheel and tire setup are upgraded, since these will not clear with stock Contours. I currently have a pair of 17x9 ET30 Apex ARC-8's, and am planning to add 17x9.5 ET25 rears. I also parted a 1998 M3 coupe in January with my shop mate, and the car had a carbon fiber sunroof delete, so that may be added as well. I also need a full alignment, and am likely going to get a street/dyno tune, since I'm still running the baseline tune to get the car running, and it seems like there is a lot left on the table.

    Here's a couple of pictures of this garbage:
    20180114_162506 by David B, on Flickr

    20180126_180222 by David B, on Flickr

    20180211_121134 by David B, on Flickr

    20180303_205921 by David B, on Flickr

    20180303_210529 by David B, on Flickr

    20180414_145437 by David B, on Flickr

    20180414_145504 by David B, on Flickr

    20180414_145611 by David B, on Flickr

    20180414_145534 by David B, on Flickr
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  15. #515
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    fairfax,va
    Posts
    905
    My Cars
    E36 M3 TV/ E36 M3 CB
    Great thread, glad to see this thing is driving on its own power! im doing my own LS1 swap on a techno as well. Your whole thread is awesome motivation, thanks for sharing all the info and pics!


  16. #516
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stuttgart, Germany
    Posts
    577
    My Cars
    1997 M3 / 5.3
    "Fuel:
    Another substantial issue I was in the process of fixing was the high fuel pressure I was experiencing at the fuel rail. Initially, I had an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump in a Rally Road sleeve. This resulted in 78-80 PSI at the rail with a C5 regulator, and factory feed and return lines to that point in the system. After some troubleshooting detailed in a few posts prior, I swapped to a Walbro 255 pump in the same setup. This dropped the pressure at the rail a few PSI to around 70-72, which made the car able to drive. Further inspection determined the restriction was in the return side of the system, specifically at the jet or siphon pump in the E36 tank. The car ran at 60 PSI with the return attached to the top of the tank but the siphon pump disconnected. Removal of a couple of screens within the siphon pump itself, and drilling out the holes to a larger size resulted in it functioning normally with a rail pressure around 60 PSI. Car feels much better now and no longer stinks of fuel from running too rich."

    Squashman702: I missed this fix on the fuel pressure. Interesting enough we have the same install - although ours is not running. Can you elaborate further on the siphon pump modifications? Images would be ideal.

    Also, we passed on a Techno Violet sedan with 130,000 miles...regret not pursuing it further (it was in San Diego...we are in FL was major sticking point.

    Tell us more about the miles you've put on it...still meet expectations?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Tim Mc; 05-25-2018 at 09:35 PM.

  17. #517
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Stow, MA
    Posts
    737
    My Cars
    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by alwaysbored786 View Post
    Great thread, glad to see this thing is driving on its own power! im doing my own LS1 swap on a techno as well. Your whole thread is awesome motivation, thanks for sharing all the info and pics!
    Thanks man! Hopefully I touched on something that can help you out that other threads may have missed- there's a lot of good info on this site and it only gets better with more people posting in this section.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    "Fuel:
    Another substantial issue I was in the process of fixing was the high fuel pressure I was experiencing at the fuel rail. Initially, I had an Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump in a Rally Road sleeve. This resulted in 78-80 PSI at the rail with a C5 regulator, and factory feed and return lines to that point in the system. After some troubleshooting detailed in a few posts prior, I swapped to a Walbro 255 pump in the same setup. This dropped the pressure at the rail a few PSI to around 70-72, which made the car able to drive. Further inspection determined the restriction was in the return side of the system, specifically at the jet or siphon pump in the E36 tank. The car ran at 60 PSI with the return attached to the top of the tank but the siphon pump disconnected. Removal of a couple of screens within the siphon pump itself, and drilling out the holes to a larger size resulted in it functioning normally with a rail pressure around 60 PSI. Car feels much better now and no longer stinks of fuel from running too rich."

    Squashman702: I missed this fix on the fuel pressure. Interesting enough we have the same install - although ours is not running. Can you elaborate further on the siphon pump modifications? Images would be ideal.

    Also, we passed on a Techno Violet sedan with 130,000 miles...regret not pursuing it further (it was in San Diego...we are in FL was major sticking point.

    Tell us more about the miles you've put on it...still meet expectations?

    Thanks.
    I'll have to see if I have some pictures of the modifications I did- I pulled the pump from the tank, pulled the "floating" cover from the top of it, and pulled it apart to basically drill out all of the holes in the pump to allow for more flow without killing the venturi effect that the restrictions create. If you run into the same issue with too much pressure, it should be pretty straightforward to see how to make it flow more fuel once you pull it from the tank.

    I was never seeking Techno when I bought my car, then figured out how tough they are to find after trying to find a matching fender. I dig it though- definitely my favorite E36 color.

    In terms of mileage- I have about 500 miles on the car since the trans went back in. Ive tried to refrain from beating on it for the first 400 or so miles per Tick's recommendation to allow for some break-in miles. The car is a blast- definitely the wildest car I've driven. Traction is non-existent in first through third and pulls hard throughout the RPM range. I need to get the car dyno and street tuned and fully aligned- I think I'm still running rich based on the fuel consumption.

    Here's a couple of recent pictures, Boston's seaport. Pretty sure this spot is a requirement for anyone into cars and within driving distance of Boston:

    DSC_2960 by David B, on Flickr

    DSC_2964 by David B, on Flickr

    DSC_2973 by David B, on Flickr

    DSC_2978 by David B, on Flickr
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  18. #518
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Stow, MA
    Posts
    737
    My Cars
    1997 328i
    Been daily driving this car (longer into the year than I wanted to) and have about 7500 miles on it at this point. Still a lot of fun. Not many issues other than an electrical draw which was traced back to the EWS module that was bypassed. Still needs an alignment and a street tune, and I'm hoping to take it off the road ASAP. Here's some pictures at a friend's farm, where the car was stored when I first bought it. Dirty as hell and rough on the outside, but I wouldn't want this any different for a driver.

    20181208_111933 by David B, on Flickr

    20181208_111800 by David B, on Flickr

    20181208_111319 by David B, on Flickr

    20181208_112505 by David B, on Flickr
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  19. #519
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    New PLymouth, New Zealand
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    2001 BMW E46 M3
    Any one able to shed some light on what model/make this throttle cable is?

    Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    These were $102 for the pair. I couldn't stomach $80 for the oil pressure gauge, especially the short sweep.



    Did you hook them up yet? Thoughts? I bought some $15 ebay panel that's two 52mm holes punched in some steel. Going to mount it over the cubby above the switches I think.

    Did a little bit of work tonight. Driveshaft is back in and the bolts are blue loctited.

    Throttle cable is basically 100% at this point, may need a little adjusting.


    Started using some of the Techflex F6. Not going to go too crazy until it runs in case I have to go back and troubleshoot. I like it so far, going to be a lot easier than unpinning a ton of connectors.

  20. #520
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Noblesville, IN
    Posts
    1,760
    My Cars
    98 328i, 79 911SC
    Lokar TC-1000LS1U - Lokar Throttle Cables
    Throttle Cable, Black, 36 in. Long, LS1, Each
    Part Number: LOK-TC-1000LS1U
    always trying to make it lighter and faster

    ^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
    current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
    instant grams: doktor_b

  21. #521
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Stow, MA
    Posts
    737
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    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by doktor b View Post
    Lokar TC-1000LS1U - Lokar Throttle Cables
    Throttle Cable, Black, 36 in. Long, LS1, Each
    Part Number: LOK-TC-1000LS1U
    This man knows.

    I've been playing with the car a little bit recently now that the weather is better and I have a bit of free time. Added the ECS 345mm brake kit, rolled the fenders, and put on the Apex ARC8's in 17x9 and 17x9.5 I bought last fall. Did the sunroof delete that I've had kicking around for over a year today. Car still needs an alignment desperately.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  22. #522
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    1997 328i
    OP updated with what I'm hoping is a comprehensive list of modifications.
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  23. #523
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    323
    My Cars
    '99 LS-swapped 323i vert
    Here's the modification summary, as of 5/26/2019. Things are a little different than initially planned.

    Engine:
    -1999 Corvette LS1, 138k miles when swapped
    -CX Racing mounts and longtube headers. Motor mount bushings replaced with Energy Suspension
    -LS6 intake manifold
    -Modified C5 Corvette wiring harness
    -Current performance
    -Ported/polished throttle body
    -Truck MAF, 4" intake
    -ICT billet brackets, F body style
    -Small block Chevrolet aluminum radiator
    -3" into 2.5" true dual exhaust, Magnaflow high flow cats, and dual 2.5" in/out Magnaflow muffler
    -A/C delete

    Transmission:
    -GTO T56, stage 1 rebuild by Tick
    -Tick 48" remote bleeder line
    -Braided clutch line
    -LS7 clutch and flywheel
    -3" Coleman racing aluminum driveshaft
    -JTR diff flange
    -B&M short throw shifter

    Differential:
    -325is medium case, 3.91 ratio with LSD
    -M3 axles
    -AKG 95A bushings and M14 front diff bolt

    Suspension:
    -AKG 95A differential mounts
    -SPC Adjustable rear lower control arms
    -AKG front lollypop bushings
    -AKG front subframe, rear trailing arm, and rear upper shock mount reinforcement plates
    -Plated upper rear control arms
    -Bilstein Group N coilovers
    -Completely rebuilt rear suspension

    Brakes:
    -ECS 345mm front rotor conversion
    -Relocated ABS pump

    Wheels/Tires:
    -Front- Apex ARC8 17x9 ET30, 10mm ECS spacer, 245/40R17 Sumitomo HTRZIII
    -Rear- Apex ARC8 17x9.5 ET25, 255/40R17 Sumitomo HTRZIII
    -Rolled front and rear fenders
    -BavAuto stud conversion (90mm)

    Interior:
    -Modena front sport seats, Vader style rear seats (swapped from Mulberry interior)
    -Sport package Modena door panels
    -Prosport oil pressure and coolant temp gauges
    -Late model E36 M3 steering wheel

    Exterior:
    -20" light bar behind front grill
    -CF sunroof delete
    -Depo glass headlights with city lights
    -Fog lights deleted


    Wow you have done a lot of upgrades. This is a sweet project.



    Diving in at the shallow end!

  24. #524
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Stow, MA
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    737
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    1997 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by motorV8ed View Post


    Wow you have done a lot of upgrades. This is a sweet project.



    Thanks, more to come. These things never end.

    Here's two of my most recent pictures:

    IMG_20190413_125635.jpg
    IMG_20190413_122237.jpg
    Instergrams: @davemakepictar

  25. #525
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    198
    My Cars
    Bmw E39 528i
    love ur rims, and that light bar has gotta come in handy at times.

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