1999 E36 M3 LS1 and T56 swap - hpde / time trial

[bmwvsevo]

Hi All,
I wanted to start this thread in order to document my process of converting my track 1999 E36 M3 from S52 to an LS1 with T56. Ive been slacking on starting it for the past 4 years or so, especially since my S52 has held up on the road course without any issues so far (230K miles). Im not a pro at this by any means and I will not be able to create such exceptionally detailed threads like some of you do. But, if at least one user can get even a single valuable piece of info from my experience that is enough for me. Second reason is to possibly get some advice from the guys who have accomplished this swap already.
I do want to say Thank You to all the contributors to this forum. Without Bimmerforums members help I would have never dared to take on a project like this.
Having said that, if you see that I am doing something wrong - don’t hesitate to let me know.

My overall goals:
E36 M3 is a dedicated track car. HPDE and Time Trial. No plans to race so far. Just a fun weekend hobby. I do love the E36 platform and do like the idea of an American V8. So combining the two in a fun weekend toy project seems like cool thing to do. For me at least. I am sure not everyone shares the same views.

Car

• 1999 E36 M3

Install Kit

• CX Racing full install kit - Ive changed the bushings in the motor mounts to Energy Suspension (per another forum member recommendation) - bulk-2008 model

Wiring

• Wiring Specialties harness

Drivetrain

• T56 transmission
• Remote bleeder setup
• LS7 Clutch
• Coleman Racing aluminum driveshaft - length 44.5in, diameter - 3in
• JTR differential adapter, T56 yoke
• 3.91 differential

Engine

• 2001 Corvette LS1 - purchased with a broken valve spring on cylinder #7
• LS6 intake manifold
• No A/C
• Prior built list - by Lingenfelter Performance Engineering (30K miles ago)
• GM LS1 block 3.900” bore
• Water jacket plugs, oil galley & cam bearings
• Manley forged aluminum pistons - coated
• Manley moly file fit rings - 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm
• GM LS1 Crankshaft
• Speed Pro heavy duty rod bearings
• Speed Pro heavy duty main bearings
  Options:
• Comp Cams camshaft - 224/224 .581/.581 114 (print on cam 3722R-3722R - R114)
• Cloyes IRL
• Poly Dyne bearing coating rod & main
• Lingenfelter LS1 modified GM Oil pump deburred to improve flow

Subject
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[motorV8ed]

Looking forward to your build!

[bmwvsevo]

I have been working on compiling the parts list. I have ordered most and the parts are slowly trickling in.
If anyone sees something major that I am missing, please let me know

Parts	Part number	Vendor
Valley cover (LS6)	12577927	Summit
Valley cover PCV hose	12594779	Summit
Valley cover grommet plug	12568011	Summit
Tensioner and pulley	ADO-12560344	Summit
Valve springs	TFS-2500286P	Summit
Valve springs removal tool	TFS-90306	Summit
Valve cover gaskets (2)	50504r	Summit
Push rods	CCA-7955-1	Summit
Coil packs	ADO-D580	Summit
coil brackets, ICT	551642	Summit
Water pump	ADO-252-846	Summit
MAF	19330121	Summit
Truck MAF harness	108100	Summit
Head Gasket	NAL-12498544	Summit
Head bolts - ARP	ARP-134-3609	Summit
Thermostat (160*)	LPE-L310015204	Summit
Starter	829200	Summit
Throttle cable	TC-1000LS1U	Summit
Knock sensors	12589867	Summit
Knock sensors wiring harness	917033	Summit
ACDelco Pilot bearing	ADO-CT1078	Summit
Intake manifold gasket	FEL-MS92438	Summit
Fuel Filter/Reg - Corvette C5	SUM-230150	Summit
Driveshaft 44.5 in long	16621	Coleman
SPICER 2-3-6081X	2-3-6081X	Summit
JTR flange adapter		JTR
Clutch kit - LS7	LUK-04-216	Summit
LS7 Flywheel	LUK-LFW191	Summit
Flywheel bolts	ARP-330-2802	Summit
PP bolts	ARP-134-2201	Summit
Oil dipstick and tube	LOK-ED-5008	Summit
Improved Racing baffle		Imp Racing
Oil pan Bolts	ARP-134-6901	Summit
Oil pump. Road racing spec	MEL-10296	Summit
Oil Pan gasket	MAH-OS32241	Summit
intake tube 4in in and out	9781	Summit
Power Steering pump and pulley	LS1FP	Turnone
Harmonic balancer bolt		Amazon
F body windage tray		Ebay
Front timing cover kit FelPro	FEL-TCS45993	Summit
Rear engine cover and main seal		Ebay
Remote bleeder kit	HRE-8287	Summit
Bleeder adapter	AFC-7010-0007	Summit
GM Performance Crankshaft bolt	12557840	Amazon

Forgot to include initially:
Camaro PCM with vats delete and start up tune that I forgot to mention in post #2
F-Body accessories - alternator, tensioner pulley, Harmonic balancer - Auto Specialties Performance part # 948500. Slightly used
F-Body oil pan with pick up tube

[Bsaint]

What valve springs broke looks like a single?

If stock I'm not surprised they broke, I'm more so surprised whoever did all that work and did a cam on a stock valve spring, not to mention it looks like its on some baller Jesel rockers.

Hopefully no further damage with the valve dropping.

And for future I'd go with a BTR .660" Platinum Dual Spring kit over the trick flows.

[Tim Mc]

Don't see an ECU, front engine accessory drive, or headers (unless the CX Racing kit comes with it).

I'm partial to Chuck's Super Tube headers and mounts. Uses OEM isolators (no vibrations) and custom size the headers - no mods/rubbing!





Should be a fun project - with a beautiful soundtrack!

[bmwvsevo]

What valve springs broke looks like a single?

If stock I'm not surprised they broke, I'm more so surprised whoever did all that work and did a cam on a stock valve spring, not to mention it looks like its on some baller Jesel rockers.

Hopefully no further damage with the valve dropping.

And for future I'd go with a BTR .660" Platinum Dual Spring kit over the trick flows.

A single valve spring broke. I am not sure if they are stock or not since this is the first LS engine I am ever looking at and not sure how to determine. Based on Summit's recommendation (my tuner also had stated that these are good for my setup) I went with - Trick Flow® Double Platinum .660 LS Dual Valve Spring and Retainer Kits TFS-2500286P. But thanks for recommendation. If you feel there is a concrete reason to switch, please let me know. Thanks for the input
And yes, JESEL rockers - JESEL STN-SS 2030. Apparently they are good.

[bmwvsevo]

Don't see an ECU, front engine accessory drive, or headers (unless the CX Racing kit comes with it).

I'm partial to Chuck's Super Tube headers and mounts. Uses OEM isolators (no vibrations) and custom size the headers - no mods/rubbing!

Should be a fun project - with a beautiful soundtrack!

Thanks - fun and expensive project indeed

Good notice on the missing parts - I did leave few out of the list:
Camaro PCM with vats delete and start up tune that I forgot to mention in post #2
F-Body accessories - alternator, tensioner pulley, Harmonic balancer - Auto Specialties Performance part # 948500. Slightly used
F-Body oil pan with pick up tube

And yes, CX Racing kit that I have does include the headers. We will see how much pain will they be to install

[Bsaint]

A single valve spring broke. I am not sure if they are stock or not since this is the first LS engine I am ever looking at and not sure how to determine. Based on Summit's recommendation (my tuner also had stated that these are good for my setup) I went with - Trick Flow® Double Platinum .660 LS Dual Valve Spring and Retainer Kits TFS-2500286P. But thanks for recommendation. If you feel there is a concrete reason to switch, please let me know. Thanks for the input
And yes, JESEL rockers - JESEL STN-SS 2030. Apparently they are good.

Just mind boggling to me someone put a cam in an LS with some expensive rockers on a single/stock valve spring.

And I've just had great experience with BTRs never seen one fail where I've seen PRC's, Trick flows and other brands fail fairly often.

[bmwvsevo]

Got it, well, now I know which springs to go with if anything happens in the future (knock on wood).

Just mind boggling to me someone put a cam in an LS with some expensive rockers on a single/stock valve spring.

And I've just had great experience with BTRs never seen one fail where I've seen PRC's, Trick flows and other brands fail fairly often.

[smr87]

It is worth it to measure the pushrod length before installing to ensure you pick the right length rods. It is a pain to find out they are not right after everything is together.

[bimerok]

Don’t forget new Oil pick up tube O-ring and exhaust manifold MLS gaskets. Also since you are replacing valve springs, you might as well replace valve seals. I didn’t see these items on your list.

[bmwvsevo]

Don’t forget new Oil pick up tube O-ring and exhaust manifold MLS gaskets. Also since you are replacing valve springs, you might as well replace valve seals. I didn’t see these items on your list.

I will check if CX Racing did include exhaust manifold gaskets to make sure. Good point on valve seals. Rear engine cover gasket set does include the new Oil pickup tube o-ring. So I should be good there. Now a question is - do I need the bracket for oil pickup tube?
2020-03-25_09-06-24 by Glen Babakhin, on Flickr

[Bsaint]

It is worth it to measure the pushrod length before installing to ensure you pick the right length rods. It is a pain to find out they are not right after everything is together.

agree'd 7.400's "should" be correct based on his info, but who knows if the heads have been milled etc.

[bmwvsevo]

It is worth it to measure the pushrod length before installing to ensure you pick the right length rods. It is a pain to find out they are not right after everything is together.

Current push rods are - 7955 Competition cams 7.400 - .080
Comp Cams/Summit/ and Jesel said that this is good size. So ill stick with the same ones

[bmwvsevo]

agree'd 7.400's "should" be correct based on his info, but who knows if the heads have been milled etc.

I do get your points guys. Ill have to find out how to measure them since Ive never done it. Sounds like a good precaution.

[bimerok]

I don’t see a reason for oil pickup tube bracket. Useless part.

[bmwvsevo]

Got it, thanks

I don’t see a reason for oil pickup tube bracket. Useless part.

[bmwvsevo]

So it begins. I started taking apart the engine. My original plan was to not take the heads off but do a leak down test and see if all holds up but I changed my mind and will be taking the heads off.
For now, took the valley cover off, front timing cover, oil pump, and rear cover. And started to take the rockers, brackets, and push rods off. JESEL rocker brackets did require a thin wall 13mm socket that I didnt have so I had to order it through Amazon.
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What does everyone think of this damage on the rocker? Bearing seems to be ok. Do I 100% replace or possibly leave alone? Ive never dealt with the valvetrain myself therefore asking for an advice. I will also email JESEL with pics
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[Bsaint]

What does everyone think of this damage on the rocker? Bearing seems to be ok. Do I 100% replace or possibly leave alone? Ive never dealt with the valvetrain myself therefore asking for an advice. I will also email JESEL with pics
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The nose rollers look untouched I don't see an issue running them,

I'm more so interested to see how #7 piston & #7 cylinder wall looks.

[bmwvsevo]

So i decided to take the heads off today. Bad news. Bent exhaust valve on cyl #7.
Few questions now:
Is it ok to leave the piston alone after the clean up? Info that I get is that its ok as long as there are no raised/sharp edges/chunks or cracks
Anything else I need to do to the bottom end? I wanted to clean the carbon off and leave as is.
I will take the heads to the machine shop. What is the total scope of work there? New valve and valve seal or is there more to it?

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[bmwvsevo]

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[Bsaint]

Pretty much what I expected to see.

It's hard for me to tell, but the sleeve doesn't look "that bad" The piston looks fine besides the carbon build up, I doubt the rod is bent. If it was my car I would clean it up and put it back together, but being as you are at this point and its not in the car yet I would send it out get it honed new rings etc. But for sure take it to a machine shop and get a better opinion for a few hundred bucks its worth having it refreshed have them look at the cam bearings etc as well.

[bmwvsevo]

Understood. Thanks Steve. I might just take it to a machine shop to get inspected. That is whenever one opens up around here (all that shut down stuff).

On another note, what do you clean the carbon off pistons with? I read about everything from WD40, to Mopar carbon removal, to acetone, etc

Pretty much what I expected to see.

It's hard for me to tell, but the sleeve doesn't look "that bad" The piston looks fine besides the carbon build up, I doubt the rod is bent. If it was my car I would clean it up and put it back together, but being as you are at this point and its not in the car yet I would send it out get it honed new rings etc. But for sure take it to a machine shop and get a better opinion for a few hundred bucks its worth having it refreshed have them look at the cam bearings etc as well.

[Tim Mc]

I'd think you would be extremely lucky if all it was is a bent valve.

Rings and bearings for sure at this point...along with the inspection. Would hate to see the first time it hits 6500 rpm and the piston lets go and takes the entire engine out. (I have run an engine with a bent rod (forged)...no ill effects except lower compression on that cylinder - no I was not aware!).

[bimerok]

On another note, what do you clean the carbon off pistons with? I read about everything from WD40, to Mopar carbon removal, to acetone, etc

Leave the carbon alone. More carbon = higher compression