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Thread: slr angle kit , washers and steering question

  1. #1
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    Question slr angle kit , washers and steering question

    have 2 questions about slr angle kit.

    1. Did I install washers in the correct place?

    2. while drifting, steering wheel stucks and doesnt wanna turn , at the end of steering lock.

    anybody can help me ?

    12790933_10153669177833445_2621961520514967136_n.jpg12802976_10153669177778445_8087665233336551172_n.jpg12804760_10153669177808445_1975985997856698755_n.jpg

  2. #2
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    1 - I don't think so. The directions are pretty straight forward. But I can' barely see the pictures properly.

    2 - That kind of happens sometimes at high angles. Make sure your alignment is correct and your toe settings are fine.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    1 - I don't think so. The directions are pretty straight forward. But I can' barely see the pictures properly.

    2 - That kind of happens sometimes at high angles. Make sure your alignment is correct and your toe settings are fine.
    thx for reply Promotor.

    1. didn't come any instructions with the kit. where can I find it ?

    2. my alignment is correct . my toe settings are 0 . camber is -4 and caster is 6 degree . should I change them ?

    also my steering box is rebuilt and pump is new 525 140 bar pump.

  4. #4
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    LOL i was like, instructions? SLR kit aint come with no instructions

    you'll probably be fine as-is, but there's not supposed to be a washer between the block and the ball joint hole. instead, use a thinner washer between the block and the tie rod hole to keep the block flat & true

    check for things binding near full lock. i'm sure you didn't leave the "tie rod" locknut loose, but if it stayed in its current position in the pictures that could cause interference with the block near full lock

    i believe torque specs are something like 45 ft/lbs for the tie rods and 65 ft/lbs for the ball joints

    do you have offset control arm bushings? you might like the car better with more caster
    Last edited by jalopi; 03-10-2016 at 10:32 AM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    LOL i was like, instructions? SLR kit aint come with no instructions

    you'll probably be fine as-is, but there's not supposed to be a washer between the block and the ball joint hole. instead, use a thinner washer between the block and the tie rod hole to keep the block flat & true

    check for things binding near full lock. i'm sure you didn't leave the "ball joint" locknut loose, but if it stayed in its current position in the pictures that could cause interference with the block near full lock

    i believe torque specs are something like 45 ft/lbs for the tie rods and 65 ft/lbs for the ball joints

    do you have offset control arm bushings? you might like the car better with more caster
    thx for reply Jalopi.

    which washer shouldnt be there? 1. picture, mid washer ?

    should I leave ball joint locknut loose?

    thx for the torque specs.

    I have a m3 control arm bushing for caster. it is 6 degrees.

  6. #6
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    the washer for the bolt directly under your strut. you'll probably be fine leaving it as-is, but you've got more surface area to spread the clamping force over without the washer there

    please have all your nuts and bolts tight, lol
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  7. #7
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    My SLR kit def came with instructions. I don't remember what they are now though. I may have some pics of the install on my build thread close enough you can see the washers. This is the only one I can find in my photobucket.


    If you remind me later tonight then I will take photo's of the instructions/torque specs and upload them here.

    Also, what is your ackerman setting at? I've heard a lot of complaints from people who hate it in the "drift" setting.

  8. #8
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    here's a couple pics of the instructions i received with my kit;




    ***inner ball joint stud torque specs are 90nm/65lb-ft




    i have not done any testing with my kit yet but when street driving, the car would not self steer back to center. i changed lollipops(fcab) from centered to offset and it helped a lot. caster is probably around 7 degrees now. it still doesnt feel 100% but im gonna wait till i do some real testing before i mess with it more. if im still not happy, then i will change the settings from "minimum ackerman for drifting" to "low ackerman, fast drift/dual purpose setting." just my .02, hope it helps.

  9. #9
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    I also should mention, my car doesn't drive yet, but it takes a bit of effort to get off the lock even sitting on jack stands

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by trev dogg View Post
    i have not done any testing with my kit yet but when street driving, the car would not self steer back to center. i changed lollipops(fcab) from centered to offset and it helped a lot. caster is probably around 7 degrees now. it still doesnt feel 100% but im gonna wait till i do some real testing before i mess with it more. if im still not happy, then i will change the settings from "minimum ackerman for drifting" to "low ackerman, fast drift/dual purpose setting." just my .02, hope it helps.
    Every person I've talked to who is running this kit HATED it on minimum ackerman, and ended up switching it to low or in some cases medium. I have mine set at min right now but I am going to change it to low before I drive it.

  10. #10
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    Every person I've talked to who is running this kit HATED it on minimum ackerman, and ended up switching it to low or in some cases medium. I have mine set at min right now but I am going to change it to low before I drive it.
    good info, im not even gonna take the chance then and just set it to low

  11. #11
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    How are you supposed to get medium ackerman?
    The pins on the tierod end that fit in the holes, just give 2 positions?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by s50b30 View Post
    How are you supposed to get medium ackerman?
    The pins on the tierod end that fit in the holes, just give 2 positions?
    it is a little confusing. the piece that has the two dowel pins needs to be rotated 180 degrees for the other two settings to work

  13. #13
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    Omg.
    I knew it was me being stupid.

  14. #14
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    don't feel bad, it took me like an hour to figure out how to get it in to the "drift" setting and now I have to change it back haha

  15. #15
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    thank you all. will try ackerman settings . also thx for instructions Trev Dogg

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmmrr View Post
    also thx for instructions Trev Dogg
    +1. i saved the pics for when i get my kit just in case i don't get instructions with it.
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  17. #17
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    low ackerman hurts self steer (return to center). reduced caster does the same. e46 arms reduce caster. many people rock e46 arms with half kits. my e30 with e46 arms and "drift" ackerman was pretty garbage, but with extended steel arms the drift setting feels great. i think the drift setting catches a bad rap from people rocking half kits and e46 arms. your opinions might vary, but i wouldn't discount the "drift" setting until you give it a try for yourselves
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    don't feel bad, it took me like an hour to figure out how to get it in to the "drift" setting and now I have to change it back haha
    X2 lol


    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JesterMX6 View Post
    +1. i saved the pics for when i get my kit just in case i don't get instructions with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by bmmrr View Post
    thank you all. will try ackerman settings . also thx for instructions Trev Dogg
    glad to help guys.

    does anyone know if adjusting the ackerman affects toe?

  19. #19
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    it does, you need to realign after a change, though you might be able to get away with adjusting the inner tie rod the same distance that you moved the ackerman pickup point
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  20. #20
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    The older kits actually had a 5th position that was negative ackerman, pretty much everyone that tried it hated it.

    the middle setting seems to be the sweet spot. That's what I'm running and I'm happy with it.

  21. #21
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    But which setting is OEM ackermann?

  22. #22
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    The innermost setting is the closest to factory ackerman, that is called "full-Race".

  23. #23
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    Isn't that outermost?

  24. #24
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    Thats what I meant haha, my bad

  25. #25
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    any chance on getting those instructions reuploaded? My new kit didn't come with any instructions and I am trying to find the torque specs

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