After further research the torque spec for those 3 front bolts isn't 19 ftlbs, more like 7-8.... Derp
Question for the experienced guys:
Should I heat wrap my manifold and Downpipe even with my turbo being air cooled aka no water lines? I like the idea of being able to see the shiny manifold but don't know if the under hood temps will be too out of control or if I should try to hold in that heat with no water lines. Also I heard that a turbo blanket is a no go on journal Bearing and especially air cooled. Any idea?
There is no such thing as an air cooled turbo. It is oil cooled. Its really a matter of personal preference. It helps quite a bit to remove the rubber seal around the edge of the hood. It lets the hot air go out the top.
Got the motor all timed and together along with the vanos and all accessories. Turned the motor over by hand and everything is smooth so I'm happy
You are not the first to break one of those skinny front head bolts. NM is higher numerically than LBS.
Yeah I realize that. My friend who has all data is the one who told me 19 ft lbs, later go to find out it's like 98 in lbs or 7 ftlbs. I stopped using a torque wrench and just tightened everything until it was snug with a 1/4 drive ratchet and then went back and checked everything with the torque wrench after.
If you live in a cold winter climate I would not heat wrap the manifold. That wrap traps contaminants such as salty water and lead to accelerated manifold cracking. Then again that's theory and many have ran with wrap without issue. I personally would coat it or just save your $$$ and leave it bare.
Also you should do s52 cams as previously stated. There are graphs out there, you just have to find them, that show quicker spool and better top end. The M50 manifold on the other hand I believe results in some low end spool loss, but definitely helps everything breath top end. I think most lean towards the top end preference so they go M50.
The pics of the "staining" looks more like very minor pitting to me. Since you're not MLS you should be fine.
I live in Utah where it's cold half the year and then hot as hell the other half of the year so I'm going to roll without it I think. I may still crack open the valve cover to put cams in if i find some but the motor will be put all the way together by Friday so too late now. I passed on the m50 manifold for now. Just these pics. I think I'll be good on the copper gasket. If I was MLS I would have just had the block machined but I wanted to keep the bottom end unopened.
That's pitting. I think you'll be OK with the cuting
Coolant will do that over time. Look where the HG lines up and you'll see there is room for coolant to spread out a little past the coolant ports
Ok I see now. I wonder if that silica free coolant is less likely to do that or what. This motor had the generic green stuff in it
So close
My m20 let loose today, good motivation to finish this thing up!
My rally road oil feed showed up and it has a hole in the fitting on the end, anyone else ever get This?
That's fine. It's part of the manufacturing process to make that fitting
Here are some aeroquip fittings that have the same thing
http://aeroquipperformance.com/files...ings/crimp.jpg
Yup. It keeps that female part on that 90 degree tube. That part of the fitting is not the sealing surface so no worry of leaks. Again, this is how the majority if not all fittings are manufactured. Do a google search
More parts flooding in
I'm ordering my clutch, spark plugs, and injectors today and that will be the last of it hopefully
Anyone think my hood is going to actually close? G&T said that a gt40 fits on an e30 and that an s360 is only slightly bigger so it probably would clear the hood but idk now
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