I received mine on Monday and installed it yesterday and I have to say what an improvement! As for pedal feel yes there is a little more effort required but it's negligible. My only regret is that I should have done it sooner.
I just installed mine and reused the "spring over barrel" spring. I got to say in the short time in the I've driven, the engagement point is immediately more obvious so my shifts are more "crisp." It feels more solid. Effort to press the pedal feels like it is lighter for some reason. It can be because I reused the old spring or because I applied new grease. Don't know. But in L.A traffic, it's a welcome change.
Overall I'm really happy with the mod A++.
Installed mine and I love the way it looks/feels, I really enjoy the shorter travel as I've always felt BMW clutch travel is insane. However, I have a UUC E34 M5 clutch and 8.5lb flywheel, so pedal effort was already up over stock. Now the effort is a bit much for me. Hopefully changing to a different clutch will help my issue, as I'm due for replacement soon anyway.
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
Any chance of another gb?
Sweet, eyes peeled, I'm in for two.
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I'm in if this goes again
I gave a review back earlier in this thread, I said the top of the pedal felt "spungy" well it was nothing to do with the Mason pedal. I changed my clutch line and bled the slave, it is perfect now, stiff at the top and silky smooth all the way down. I am 100% glad I did this mod, I would do it again in a second. It improves how you interact wit the car every day with every shift. And yes getting rid of the helper spring, makes the clutch feel pretty much like ever other car with a clutch I have driven. So a little pricey but you get what you pay for... If I ever were to buy another Z3, it would be one of the first things I would do and not look back.
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
I would be interested as well.
As an aside, I just recently replaced my slave cylinder and in doing so I noticed the aperture on the slave was still smaller than the CDV and braided aftermarket line I had installed years ago. I slightly enlarged the hole with a drill to eliminate the bottleneck , and now the action is much better. (Just make sure to have a magnet handy, and thoroughly clean up any shavings.) Long story short even with the wider aperture clutch lines and CDVs there is going to be relatively minimal improvement until all the choke points are eliminated.
Having issues getting this installed on the S54 M Coupe.
I've got the old one out, but I can't get the new pedal to slip on to the pivot point because the metal "ears" (for the sensors) come into contact with a big wiring block under the dash, and it's not apparent how to remove it. What is the trick here?
I just bought one of these clutch pedals for my 1998 M Roadster and had it installed about a week ago. I paid full price for it and it was absolutely worth every penny. I cannot emphasize enough that this was by far the best thing I ever did to improve this car.............UNBELIEVABLE!
What I do to create more space is remove the the vertical bolt (circled by itself) and loosen 4 other bolts by the brake. This lets the entire assembly swing down a centimeter without putting strain on the brake/clutch lines, etc... Try that.
inv_002494.jpg
Group buy part deux in the works, stay tuned.
My newborn across the street bought one. I was dumb and passed on it. Won't happen again.
Cheers, john
Questions concerning the install of the Mason Engineering Z3 Short Throw ClutchPedal on a 1998 2.8l:
Note: The supplied instructions I received with my Mason Engineering Z3 Short Throw Clutch Pedal are not for my Z3’s design.
Is anyone else experiencing a bind in the clutch pedal after this install? The old plastic pedal had a smooth arch throughout the pedal compression and release cycle.
Can anyone give some insight on compressing the clutch pedal spring? My car doesn’t have what would normally be called a clutch return spring.
Last edited by mlarry; 08-22-2017 at 03:35 AM.
Here is more info that mentions the spring.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...h-Pedal-Review
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7#post29504797
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
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