Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 129

Thread: How to build a dank e36 drift car, part deux: The Chosen One

  1. #76
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    fairfax,va, usa
    Posts
    6,660
    My Cars
    2 E30s and a maxima
    Is it dank yet?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    derp, i read that as 7/8" wilwood slave yet still wrote master... lol. goes to show just how alert i am before noon. yeah, their master cylinders work just fine, the pull style slaves are complete junk though

    installing a rear mount radiator is planned for the future, but i'm never getting rid of the front mount radiator. overheating is for teh noobz

    it might be dank by tuesday/wednesday. it was only 25* outside when i woke up this morning and the garage wasn't too much warmer. seeing as how the rest of the week is supposed to be in the 50-60's, i decided to hold off on going out to the garage until we hit our peak temp of 50 today. replaced the battery fuse, now my dash lights and stuff works now, yay. doesn't sound like the fuel pump is priming though... guess i'm reading through wiring diagrams tonight to see what powers it. i also got the new clutch slave installed [works just fine without modifying the pedal, double yay] and throttle cable bracket made up. so really, it's just wiring and exhaust left before i can fire her up for the first time. luckily it's only like, five wires, because carb
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    so because i didn't want to deal with flipping a bunch of switches before the car would start this time around, i spent a good portion of the morning reading wiring diagrams for the x20 connector so that i could power the distributor/starter solenoid/alternator exciter/gauges/fan through the use of the ignition switch only. after verifying my reading with a test light, i then got to wiring all my relays and power feeds up. after confirming everything was working [with a test light], i then primed the oil pump and decided to give her a test fire before making the exhaust, just because. so i turn the key to run - i've got the fuel pump running, good. turn it to start - and we're cranking... and cranking... but no start

    my first assumption was that my timing was set wrong. after all, i bought a cheap summit brand harmonic balancer that had three different sets of timing marks on it. i wasn't completely confident that i had it set to the right markers, so this is what i tried to fix first since there was a heavy aroma of gas in the air. retimed to the second set - nothing. retimed to the third set - nothing. i checked and double checked my plug wiring and piston layout because i figured i must be doing something wrong. after setting timing back to the original set again and still having no success, i then decided to check the coil for power.... aaaannnnddd it had none. turns out the second biggest hot-in-run wire in the x20 connector couldn't hold up to the load of a distributor, electric choke and alternator exciter. so i hot wired the distributor to the power junction block aaaaannnndddddd



    it's so, so loud. 18 year old me would have been ecstatic. 28 year old me is not. i need to make a real exhaust, real soon

    set to have the gauges all mounted up tomorrow, then i guess i have to run some real wire for the distributor, maybe even wire in the revlimiter. but i'll probably get to work on the exhaust, so i can get the wideband in for tuning assistance

    then all i really have to do is adjust the lifter preload, tune the carb, hack the hood up and take her for a few test drives to look for any major issues. after that, i at least think i'll be good to tow it to the meeting and get some shakedown sessions in before the first big event of the year
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-12-2016 at 12:27 AM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  4. #79
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    fairfax,va, usa
    Posts
    6,660
    My Cars
    2 E30s and a maxima
    What was the amp rating on that wire? I'd imagine the coil draws hella amps yo.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    no idea. i think i remember measuring the coil on my 302 car and it was pulling something like 10A, maybe? i suppose i should probably separate it from the choke and exciter when running my new wires
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    479
    My Cars
    E36 M3, jzxE28
    Sounds pretty dank. Congrats
    instagram @andyitslit

  7. #82
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    fairfax,va, usa
    Posts
    6,660
    My Cars
    2 E30s and a maxima
    I always run coils on their own line. They get noisy. Even running a coil power source wire near a sensor will cause the sensor to read oddly.

    Though, I doubt that's much of an issue with a carb.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    i'm such a hack. words don't properly describe how terrible my car is now








    made some very quick and dirty dump pipes from the headers. it's still horribly loud. the super horrid pipe on the drivers' side is from the y-pipe i made for the e30 a while back




    i was also able to reuse the stock throttle cable with very little modification. all i did was drill the inboard side for a cotter pin. it's a bit tough to see, but it's there




    so as of right now i'm facing a few issues. either the clutch isn't disengaging enough while going into second for some reason, or the 2nd gear synchro is pretty much completely gone

    the alternator also isn't charging at all. 99.9% sure i've got it all wired up right. according to the test light, i've got power going to the alternator and exciter, though the test light doesn't light up past the 510 ohm resistor. not sure if it's bad or not, guess i'll have to break out the multimeter for further diag

    lastly, i've got AFR issues. after putting the largest jets and smallest metering rods i had laying around into the carb, i'm still completely maxing out the wideband gauge on lean. goes past 18 and then reads --, like "what is wrong with your car". either the 351 is a complete fuel hog at idle compared to the 302 -or- i've got atmospheric air mixing in with the exhaust and giving me a bad AFR reading. i only say this because of the location i used for the sensor




    maybe i'll clamp a 90* pipe onto the drivers' side pipe, after talking to protomor we've agreed that this is probably what's giving me a lean reading. i really really hope this'll fix the problem and that my car is only running poorly because of poor timing [went to time it today, the light is completely dead], towing this thing 180 miles and not getting to drive it would SUCK, especially after how i've dogged myself for damn near a month to get this thing ready for saturday
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-14-2016 at 08:39 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kelowna, Bc, canada
    Posts
    523
    My Cars
    1995 BMW M3 coupe
    You're not supposed to have any sort of exhaust leak within 8-12" of the sensor iirc. Otherwise it tampers with accuracy

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    hrm, good to know, thanks for the tip
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    1,051
    My Cars
    '97 M3/4/5.0
    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    so as of right now i'm facing a few issues. either the clutch isn't disengaging enough while going into second for some reason, or the 2nd gear synchro is pretty much completely gone
    If you don't have enough throw, it will be hard to get into first, and going into reverse will clunk or grind.

    the alternator also isn't charging at all. 99.9% sure i've got it all wired up right. according to the test light, i've got power going to the alternator and exciter, though the test light doesn't light up past the 510 ohm resistor. not sure if it's bad or not, guess i'll have to break out the multimeter for further diag
    Post pics/wiring setup?

    -or- i've got atmospheric air mixing in with the exhaust and giving me a bad AFR reading.
    Definitely this is what's happening.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    it seemed easy enough to go into first, but did clunk into reverse. maybe i'll try putting a little bit more preload on the clutch, i initially set it at finger tight

    here's the exact wiring diagram i went by in my old e30 and i had zero charging issues. though this is a new alternator replaced under warranty, so who knows, this could be a part store dead-in-box special

    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    1,051
    My Cars
    '97 M3/4/5.0
    It's your yellow/white wire - it needs to see actual voltage at the fuse box so the alternator can adjust its output direction. If it's hotwired directly to the alt output, the alternators sees full voltage at all times, so it never tries to charge. Take the yellow/white to one of your ignition-on wires on the engine harness.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2

  14. #89
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    fairfax,va, usa
    Posts
    6,660
    My Cars
    2 E30s and a maxima
    Why does that elbow have a flat spot? lol. Ah man, in the old forum days, you'd get so roasted for this thread. I WANNA DRIVE IT!

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    i dunno, i've been posting stuff like this for years. i've always wondered why people hardly ever shit on me though. maybe it's because it's obvious that i don't care, that's my best guess

    unfortunately i'm not bringing it tomorrow. it doesn't wanna idle for some reason and no matter what i do the alternator just won't charge. at this point i think i just need to clean the garage and take a week or two break from this piece of shit car that i'd really like to take a baseball bat to right about now. so mad

    i can see why having the yellow/white wire attached directly to the alternator might make it not charge, but that doesn't explain why it worked just fine in my old car. but still, it won't be that hard to wire up so i guess it's worth a shot. i think i'll still take the alternator off and have the part store test it to make sure it's working fine before i waste any more of my time though

    *edit*

    it's funny you mention that, because i found this on SBF tech



    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Laminar View Post
    It's your yellow/white wire - it needs to see actual voltage at the fuse box so the alternator can adjust its output direction. If it's hotwired directly to the alt output, the alternators sees full voltage at all times, so it never tries to charge. Take the yellow/white to one of your ignition-on wires on the engine harness.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2
    holy crap that was a long read. but i see what you're talking about now, this is what really made what you said click

    Quote Originally Posted by Pirate4x4
    OK, with this system, let's assume the alternator's voltage regulator is "set" to 14.0 volts. If we "sense" system voltage (i.e. hook up the alternator's voltage sensing terminal) right at the alternator output , we are going to get a value equal to the alternator's output (obviously) - say 14.0 volts. Now, the voltage regulator says to itself "I'm supposed to produce an output sufficient to maintain system voltage at 14.0 volts. I sense system voltage (at my output terminal) as 14.0 volts. Everything OK, maintain this level of output."


    Meanwhile - 12 feet away the power-hungry amplifiers are only getting 13.0 volts because of the voltage drop that occurs in the wiring from the alternator to the main bus bar and on to the amps. It's even worse for components further "downstream" from the bus bar. But the alternator has no way of knowing this - because we hooked the voltage sensing wire right to the alternator output - it thinks everything is fine, it thinks system voltage is at 14.0 volts and it has no idea about the low voltage at the amps.

    Doing this - sensing voltage at the alternator output - seriously hamstrings the system - it's like a self-fulfilling system - it's supposed to maintain 14.0 volts, it outputs 14.0 volts, therefore everything must be OK, right? But it completely ignores voltage drop in the rest of the system - and that's bad for performance (incidentally, many electrical components, when experiencing as little as a10% drop in voltage supply can experience a 30% drop in performance!)
    thanks for the link, it was a very informative read

    so if i'm understanding this right, a better location for the sensing wire would be somewhere like the fuse block power supply post?

    Last edited by jalopi; 04-15-2016 at 02:52 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    1,051
    My Cars
    '97 M3/4/5.0
    Yep! Give the power a chance to go through some wiring and get dropped a bit before being sensed.

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    well that should be easy enough. i guess i'll try that out before taking it to the parts store

    thanks for the pointer, i have a suspicion that my running problems might be stemming from a rough idle tune and poor spark from low voltage, hopefully this'll help towards getting my car running right

    but i don't think i'm gonna do much diag until i've got an exhaust finished. i can hardly hear myself think over the roar this POS makes. currently on the fence as to whether i should do 3 or 3.5" pipe past the y collector. there's so much contradicting info on the internet about pipe diameter requirements - many sources say that a single 3" pipe is only good for about 350 wheel-ish worth of power, but people routinely put 600+ through 3" downpipes all day. i realize small displacement turbo engine setups have differences compared to big displacement n/a setups, but at the end of the day power is really just a factor of CFM and volumetric efficiency, right?

    i would prefer to do a 3" setup though, 3.5" is both more expensive and [probably] harder to fit. even if i'm leaving extra power on the table, which i doubt i will be, as long as it's not a significant difference then i think i'll be OK with it given the convenience that comes with fitting the 3" pipe
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-16-2016 at 12:18 AM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    1,483
    My Cars
    99 328i, a few more
    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    well that should be easy enough. i guess i'll try that out before taking it to the parts store

    thanks for the pointer, i have a suspicion that my running problems might be stemming from a rough idle tune and poor spark from low voltage, hopefully this'll help towards getting my car running right

    but i don't think i'm gonna do much diag until i've got an exhaust finished. i can hardly hear myself think over the roar this POS makes. currently on the fence as to whether i should do 3 or 3.5" pipe past the y collector. there's so much contradicting info on the internet about pipe diameter requirements - many sources say that a single 3" pipe is only good for about 350 wheel-ish worth of power, but people routinely put 600+ through 3" downpipes all day. i realize small displacement turbo engine setups have differences compared to big displacement n/a setups, but at the end of the day power is really just a factor of CFM and volumetric efficiency, right?

    i would prefer to do a 3" setup though, 3.5" is both more expensive and [probably] harder to fit. even if i'm leaving extra power on the table, which i doubt i will be, as long as it's not a significant difference then i think i'll be OK with it given the convenience that comes with fitting the 3" pipe

    If it's any help, mine is 3" ran through 2 vibrant ultraquiets into a twin tip. I get tuned Saturday, i'll see what the tuner says about it.

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    that actually would be really good to know, thanks!

    just to double check, it's a single 3" running through two of those mini mufflers, not single 3" to dual through the mini mufflers, right?
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    well i guess the alternator is just bad. i sent the yellow sensing wire to the junction box, verified it's getting power, but there still isn't any power coming out. guess it's off to the part store again to have them test & replace it
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    whew. so i wound up doing some stuff to the car over the past two months. but i mostly spent my time dicking off and playing dark souls. it's not that i'm lazy, i'm just not a filthy casual. or so i keep telling myself anyway

    so in two months i only accomplished three things

    * "finished" the exhaust up. it's pretty leaky, but is only as loud as something like a camaro with an aftermarket muffler with the cutout closed. this was arguably the most difficult part of my swap. comparatively speaking, everything else was really easy to do. for this reason alone i will not recommend this engine as a viable swap

    * i got her running good enough to go out for a test drive! the summit brand balancer i bought came with three timing marks. when i emailed summit and asked which marks i should use, i guess the guy thought i had an old 351 or something, because i was told to use the "10 o'clock" marks. i decided to try out the "11 o'clock" marks with a new (and unbent) timing pointer and boom! she runs flawlessly. i checked the marks and figured out i was trying to run the car with the timing set at 20* ATDC, aka 30* retarded. which made me feel pretty dumb

    * i converted the CNC brand slave cylinder that the dazecar slave bracket comes with from a 7/8" bore to a 5/8" bore. why? well for whatever reason, the cup seal on my brand new 11/16" datsun pickup slave failed



    which made me mad, because when i took it back to advance auto parts they wouldn't warranty it. which i guess i kind of understand why, since i modified the housing to fit the slave bracket, but that wouldn't cause a failure... oh well, i was thinking the slave needs more travel anyway



    and because of the way it and the t5 are made, the bleeder was sitting below the feed line, which for obvious reasons i did not like



    so then i dug my old CNC brand slave out of storage and made a sleeve for it. i imagine a machine shop wouldn't charge any more than $20-40 for something like this. just explain what you're using it for and that it needs to be a press fit. i personally made mine to be .0005" larger than what the bore of the slave was, but i'm no professional, so go by what your machinist suggests



    when i pressed it in, i ran a few beads of blue loctite along the bottom of the sleeve to ensure that there was a tight, leak free seal




    oh yeah, the piston came out of a wilwood integral reservoir master. which i just found out they don't offer a rebuild kit for those, so F me, huh. oh well. it works great though! the pedal effort is a bit higher than what i was used to, but there's positive disengagement every time! as far as the piston goes, wilwood does offer rebuild kits for other 5/8" masters, so i guess you could use the cup seal on a piston made by the same machine shop.



    SO, thoughts about the swap during my first drive? well it's running pig rich and the vacuum advance isn't hooked up, so it did bog a bit when goosing it at sub 2k RPMs. but holy cow, compared to the 5.0, the torque is so real. it's amazing how much of a difference just .5" of stroke made the car drive (going from my memory of the 302 e30 )




    things to do before i can start partying hard and make a burnout video:

    * make real radiator mounts

    * adjust valve lash

    * replace the POS locking hood pins with regular hood pins that won't fail on me doing 70 down the freeway, maybe

    * tune the carb, maybe

    * clean up the awful in-car gauge wiring... maybe

    * change the oil

    * stop playing goddamn videogames during my free time
    Last edited by jalopi; 06-20-2016 at 10:14 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  22. #97
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    fairfax,va, usa
    Posts
    6,660
    My Cars
    2 E30s and a maxima
    Glad you figured it out and now you can fully stroke that extra half inch. heh.

    Tune... carb... what? lol

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    DeWitt, Michigan
    Posts
    6,080
    My Cars
    '97 540i/6, '97 328i
    This thread is soooo overdue for an update! Need some 351 sounds!!

    I guess I need to read back a way, but did you throw a cam in this sucker?

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    BALTIMORE
    Posts
    804
    My Cars
    98 323
    yeah, i need to stop being such a lazy bum with my car. i finally got it to the point where it was running/driving, but then one of the spark plug wire boots rotated and rested on the header, causing it to catch on fire and melt. the engine started misfiring, i got pissed and so it's been sitting like that for the past two weeks (or three? when did i buy overwatch?)

    it's got a ford F303 cam in it. i made a few WOT pulls with it and it does seem like the cam is a bit small, seems like it starts to fall on its face at about 5000-6000RPMs. though i guess it could be the overly rich tune, my AFRs were about 10-12ish at WOT. i'm limiting this engine to 6k so i guess it really doesn't matter that much anyway

    realistically, i think it needs a set of custom headers to fully solve my problems, which also include super leaky exhaust flanges (i'll take a picture tomorrow to illustrate just how shitty this exhaust setup is). when i finally get around to doing the headers, i'll probably do a design similar to the one used for that turbo manifold on page 1. but until i get my side business (and hopeful main business) up and running, i just don't have time/effort/energy for this car. it has me frustrated to the point where i kind of just want to park it in my driveway until the weather drops into the 60's-70's again so that i can actually bear working for more than 30 minutes and buy a stock e46 to dick around with in the meantime

    but no post is ever exciting without pictures. here's the project i've been sporadically working on for the past month or so, just got to do a little powdercoating today





    the color is nuts. i have a crappy camera so these pictures don't do the color justice. it's about 2-3 shades brighter in person. wasn't able to finish every block due to time constraints, but i'm pretty happy with how they've turned out so far. once i get the base coat done, it's getting a clearcoat...


    THAT GLOWS IN THE MOTHER****ING DARK





    guess i can post an update about that stuff once it's all said and done


    until next time
    Last edited by jalopi; 07-20-2016 at 11:52 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    DeWitt, Michigan
    Posts
    6,080
    My Cars
    '97 540i/6, '97 328i
    The new blocks are coming along, huh? Exciting stuff!

Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. How to build a dank E36 drift car
    By jalopi in forum Drifting
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 02-01-2016, 07:24 PM
  2. Looking for a car to build a SPEC E36? Cheap... so far
    By Bill in forum Race Cars & Track Parts
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-26-2007, 06:35 PM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-16-2005, 02:26 PM
  4. How to connect Euro Hella E36 + DDE kit on US car?
    By arcoins in forum 1991 - 1999 (E36)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-12-2003, 04:40 PM
  5. How to connect Euro Hella E36 on US car?
    By arcoins in forum Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-12-2003, 05:27 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •