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Thread: How to build a dank e36 drift car, part deux: The Chosen One

  1. #51
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    i mean a bent driveshaft is a whole other animal, even a small bend would put you seriously out of balance given their usual length

    since i already have the yoke and diff flange, a new tube would only be $200ish, but i just ordered aluminum to make the spacer... $14 and some change with tax

    for all intents and purposes i'm pretty much unemployed right now, so every penny saved during this project is a big deal
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  2. #52
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    This was a small bend, not visible when looking at it underneath the car, so ever since then they just haven't been something i've messed with. Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, but how are you going to get the Ford flange on the front of the BMW shaft?
    Last edited by Novablue454; 03-31-2016 at 11:44 AM.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    This was a small bend, not visible when looking at it underneath the car, so ever since then they just haven't been something i've messed with. Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, but how are you going to get the Ford flange on the front of the BMW shaft?
    I think he's using the shaft from his E30/5.0 swap.

  4. #54
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    yup, it's got one of those jags-that-run flanges on it
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  5. #55
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    when you get the aluminum, find something conical with a pointed tip, place it on a level surface and see if the disc balances. if it does, you should be fine. once your done drilling holes, drill a small hole in the center, find a turbo shop and have them check the balance in a more official capacity lol. if its off, they should be able to shave it to perfection.
    Last edited by JesterMX6; 03-31-2016 at 12:57 PM.
    13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
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    95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
    90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...

  6. #56
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    so i finished making the driveshaft spacer today

    i get that this doesn't necessarily mean it's balanced, but i was able to make the faces true to about .0015" and it's only .0025" out of round. i realize these aren't the greatest tolerances in the machining world, but i'm not gonna ask much more from a cheap chinese lathe










    i'm pretty pleased with it. here's to hoping it doesn't vibrate... if it does, well i guess i'll just get a driveshaft made, i doubt having the spacer balanced will be cheap enough to justify keeping it
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-01-2016 at 10:04 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  7. #57
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    well i've made some progress in the past couple of days. just got my wisdom teeth out yesterday though, so i'm not sure when i'll be able to start really going at it again.



    OK so wow, i'm really glad i decided to save the exhaust for last, because damn there is no room in this engine bay. running the exhaust with 2.5" off the headers will be tough going from the drivers' side to the passenger side, but it will be doable. however, as of tomorrow, i only have 9 days to finish this car up for a special meeting so i'll be shooting the exhaust through the hood as i just don't have time to do the exhaust now.



    i think my solution will be relocating the PS reservoir to the right of the distributor or something like that, then i'll have about as much space as what you see in this picture of the other side



    my plan of attack is to use a 180* mandrel bent piece of pipe to redirect the exhaust underneath the header. i've already mocked it up on the passenger side, it works. i will have to weld the pipe directly to the header though, the adapter pipe with the female ball flare i have makes the 180 too long. but that's OK, i'll just use v-bands down the road

    i also got around to making a top hose as well. it sits way higher than i'd like it to, but until i get a straight necked thermostat housing there's nothing that can be done about it



    i also had to get rid of the ABS pump to even test the exhaust out. i'm glad i did that, my ABS wasn't gonna work anyway and that sucker is heavy - my guess is 10lbs



    i have to do at least two of these things per day if i even want a shot at going to this meeting... lets hope i'm up for more work tomorrow than i was today

    Things left to do:

    -install FPR on firewall
    -run fuel lines
    -bleed the clutch
    -fully bleed the brakes
    -cut hole for shifter, install shifter
    -make a top support bracket for the radiator
    -make/figure out the lower radiator hose
    -make fan mount, install
    -measure belt length, buy belt
    -run wire to starter, alternator, distributor, fan and gauges
    -hook up throttle cable
    -set base timing
    -sloppily make cowl hood
    -cut holes in hood for exhaust
    -make exhaust
    -drive
    -fine tune
    -maybe make a heat shield for the brake lines?
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  8. #58
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    looking good. if that's your highest point in the coolant lines, you could always just put a filler right there and call it good.

    how did the wisdom teeth extraction go? were any impacted, requiring incisions? I had all 4 impacted and was down for the count for like 5 days after. Mine also happened to be thanksgiving weekend, so when i ignored my ortho's advice and ate thanksgiving food 3 days later, i ended up with a pretty decent abscess
    13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
    97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
    95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
    90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...

  9. #59
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    lol. apparently some people only have two wisdom teeth, myself included. so it was just the lowers that came out. they were impacted pretty bad, but really after day one it's just a dull ache in the back of my mouth that i use as an excuse to take percocet

    stuart components, a manufacturer of high volume water pumps (but not thermostats or thermostat housings, so no motivation to steer people in a particular way) has a good article about why you don't want the fill cap on the high pressure side of the cooling system

    http://stewartcomponents.com/index.p...formation_id=9

    basically, pressure spikes from sudden changes in RPM can cause the cap to start venting and once it does, it won't stop venting until the engine's shut off

    i did put a bleeder on the top hose though, on my e30 car it worked good enough

    figure i'll do easy stuff today, like the upper radiator bracket and measuring the belt length, maybe even bleed the clutch/brakes
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  10. #60
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    i dont know those motors so i didn't realize it was the high pressure side
    13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
    97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
    95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
    90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...

  11. #61
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    Those brake lines remind me of a rube goldberg machine.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  12. #62
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    Are you going to run some sort of proportioning valve on there now that you deleted the ABS? I'm pondering what will be needed to do that to my car...

  13. #63
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    nope #yolo
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  14. #64
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    Haha! Ok then!

  15. #65
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    my arrogance will be my undoing one day, i swear

    wound up driving about 45 miles yesterday and today going back and forth to the parts store to get different length belts, because i was insistent that i had measured the length correctly each time. i should've just bought ten belts or something and returned the ones i didn't use... but i did eventually get a belt that works! wound up being for a caravan, how generic can you get



    the radiator clearance reminds me of my e30.. which i am not a fan of. oh well, what can you do

    also wound up making some really shitty upper radiator mounts, well they look like crap but are quite sturdy. they'll have to do until i do a tube setup in the front



    i also wound up relocating the power steering reservoir to the right of the distributor - this gives me MUCH better clearance for several exhaust routings. it also puts a considerable distance between the PS lines and the exhaust manifold, which is always a good thing




    i haven't figured out what i'm doing with the exhaust yet - maybe i'm still gonna temporarily shoot it through the hood, but afterwards, i'm either using a 180* mandrel bend to send the exhaust under the headers - or - use a 90* bend to send the exhaust through that fenderwell hole behind the headlights. not sure which route imma take yet






    can't see it in any of the pictures, but i did wind up getting the lower hose figured out and installed, woot

    which leaves me with the following crap to finish

    -install FPR on firewall
    -run fuel lines
    -bleed the clutch
    -fully bleed the brakes
    -cut hole for shifter, install shifter
    -make fan mount, install
    -run wire to starter, alternator, distributor, fan and gauges
    -hook up throttle cable
    -sloppily make cowl hood
    -cut holes in hood for exhaust
    -make exhaust
    -drive
    -fine tune
    -maybe make a heat shield for the brake lines?
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-07-2016 at 09:21 PM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  16. #66
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    I think you just like putting exhausts in weird places.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  17. #67
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    Running the ehaust out behind the headlights is gonna melt the shit out of your crazy carpet flares though

  18. #68
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    lol, i don't think it would, but even if it would the crazy carpet flares are gone. the angle blocks i made decreased caster and moved the 9.5" wheels too close to the rearward part of the fenderwell, i started rubbing bad. got tired of dealing with that clearancing bullshit and just decided to put the 8.25 inchers back up front. they can still fit 245's without looking too bulge-y, so i guess that doesn't upset me too much. more wheels to mount burnin' rubber i say

    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I think you just like putting exhausts in weird places.
    why yes, i do like laying pipe in weird places

    Last edited by jalopi; 04-08-2016 at 10:39 AM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  19. #69
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    did a bunch of things today. installed the FPR on the brackets for the stock FPR, ran fuel lines, bled the brakes, bled the clutch, cut & installed the shifter, ran a power wire to the alternator and starter, then blew the fusible link coming off the battery while running said wires [since i was too lazy to clean all my shit off the deck of the trunk so i could disconnect the battery]

    for now i only have pictures of the fuel stuff. i wound up installing the carb'd FPR right where the OE FPR was since wanted to keep the engine bay somewhat tidy...ish



    i originally wanted to do 5/16" steel brake line, but the only parts store around that had 5/16" line in stock insisted that they couldn't sell me the line because they claimed i needed braided steel hose instead. was not happy. so i went to home depot across the street and wound up settling for some 3/8" refrigerant line. it's good for about 1000psi, so it should hold up to the 7 coming out of the fuel pressure regulator just fine




    i've never had an easier time bending line before - it was a very nice change from bending steel line! this stuff is super easy to kink though, so one of those pipe benders is probably a good thing to have to make the job even easier

    got all the hydraulics bled and whaddyaknow - the slave doesn't get enough travel to disengage the clutch. i went and separated the clutch pedal from the masters' clevis and added a temporary spacer. raising the pedal by about .5-1" gives enough extra throw at the slave that the clutch disengages. so i guess tomorrow i'm cutting the clevis rod off the master (since i can't get the rod out to save my life) and making a threaded spacer to bring the pedal to the necessary height. from what i understand, switching to a nissan truck slave cylinder will fix this issue as well

    my goal for tomorrow is to finish the clutch pedal modification, install the fan and gauges, replace the battery fuse and wrap up all wiring. maybe i'll have enough time to do the throttle cable bracket too, though if the temps aren't very high i'll probably hold off since welding with a closed garage door sucks

    i'm starting to feel pretty confident that i'll have her down on four wheels and driving by monday or tuesday, though that's not accounting for modifying the hood, shaking it down or getting a basic tune down. making it by saturday is pretty much in the bag, though i think i'll wind up towing it to the meeting since there's just wayyyyy too much that could wind up going wrong

    i'll try to be better with taking time to get more/better pictures [and maybe videos] once i'm mostly done all this stuff

    -make fan mount, install
    -replace fuse coming off the battery
    -run solenoid and signal wires for the starter and alternator
    -run wire to distributor, fan and gauges
    -modify clutch pedal for longer throw
    -make bracket for throttle cable
    -sloppily make cowl hood
    -cut holes in hood for exhaust
    -make exhaust
    -drive/shakedown
    -fine tune
    -maybe make a heat shield for the brake lines?
    -make a burnout video
    Last edited by jalopi; 04-10-2016 at 12:16 AM.
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    got all the hydraulics bled and whaddyaknow - the slave doesn't get enough travel to disengage the clutch. i went and separated the clutch pedal from the masters' clevis and added a temporary spacer. raising the pedal by about .5-1" gives enough extra throw at the slave that the clutch disengages. so i guess tomorrow i'm cutting the clevis rod off the master (since i can't get the rod out to save my life) and making a threaded spacer to bring the pedal to the necessary height. from what i understand, switching to a nissan truck slave cylinder will fix this issue as well
    What slave are you running right now?

    I'm working on installing a 7/8" Wilwood master as we speak (1" is also available), installation doesn't require too much modification, certainly nothing you'd be scared of. I'll post details and pics once I'm sure it works.

  21. #71
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    You probably have this down by now, but just in case... The one time I converted a fuel injected car to a carbed setup many years ago, I had to get a really funky moroso FPR to have any chance of getting the fuel pressure down low enough. It can be a real pain unless you actually swap out the fuel pump for one intended for a carburetor setup.

  22. #72
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    oh no, don't install the 7/8" master! if you're talking about the wilwood pull-style slave, it is the biggest piece of junk i've ever used. i went through two of them on my 5.0 car before switching over to the current CNC push style 7/8" slave, it's the one they recommend from rosehill - the place that sells slave brackets for the t5 and TKO

    http://www.cncbrakes.com/sc.asp?grp=...305&subseries=

    you're an engineer, so i'm not gonna patronize you by explaining why o-rings aren't supposed to be used in dynamic applications [you could also probably out-explain me ]. because that's all the wilwood pull style slave uses, is o-rings. if you don't have the slave 100% perfectly aligned, the o-ring sealing the actuator rod to the body of the slave will fail in a very short period of time. while i haven't had any failure issues with the current slave, it still doesn't really provide enough travel with the current OE master cylinder. when paired with a larger wilwood master cylinder it does work, but that's a can of worms i refuse to get into with this car, i hated that pedal setup

    if i was going to swap slaves, it'd be for one from a late eighties/early nineties nissan truck. they pretty much have the same bolt spacing as the CNC slave, so they bolt right up to the rosehill brackets. they've also got 11/16" bores, which according to an online hydraulics calculator and this thread - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Cylinder-Bore - would be a much better match for the OE master cylinder

    just ran some numbers on an online calculator, here's what i came up with




    which is good to know. just checked online, the local advance auto parts has a 2wd and 4wd slave in stock for those trucks. it's a bit of a hassle, but it seems like much less work than modifying the clutch pedal right now. i think i'll buy both and see which has better clearance - i'd prefer using the 4wd slave as it's got a bleeder that will actually work on a t5, but i'm not sure if i've got the clearance for the 4wd version. i guess i can always just leave the 2wd version unbolted and gravity bleed it "upside down"



    as far as the FPR goes, the mystery unit i've got is a holley, you just can't read it through the thick layer of aluminum oxide. it worked just fine on my 302 car. alot of these efi-to-carb regulators catch a bad rep since some of them are a returnless design and the internal diaphragm just can't deal with the pressure of a modern efi pump. this holley's got a return, so i guess that's why people recommend them
    Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
    M42 + trans - 427lbs
    302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
    m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
    m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs

    351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
    LS,
    aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
    LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz

  23. #73
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    That is handy as can be if you can use one of those nice little Holleys and have it work well. Much easier to plumb and package than what I ended up with.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalopi View Post
    oh no, don't install the 7/8" master! if you're talking about the wilwood pull-style slave, it is the biggest piece of junk i've ever used. i went through two of them on my 5.0 car before switching over to the current CNC push style 7/8" slave, it's the one they recommend from rosehill - the place that sells slave brackets for the t5 and TKO
    I'm using the 3/4" Datsun push-style slave. It worked great with the BMW master and the eBay clutch. The Centerforce clutch I just installed has a much lower effort, meaning it needs a longer throw. As is it engaged JUST off the floor, and CLUNKED shifting into reverse. I've already ripped out the BMW hard line and taken a bandsaw to the pedal bracket, so I'm far past the point of no return. I didn't want to go smaller on the slave, so I went bigger on the master. This setup should give me a little over 1.3" of travel at the slave.
    Last edited by Laminar; 04-10-2016 at 01:49 PM.

  25. #75
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    [QUOTE]the radiator clearance reminds me of my e30.. which i am not a fan of. oh well, what can you do[/QUOTE]

    Rear mount! lol

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